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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-01-2019, 03:46 AM Thread Starter
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Question Looking to buy - V6 4WD Major issues and differences?

Hello all!

I've been in the process of selling my current vehicle (2008 Accord V6) and I've set my sights on the RAV4 V6 4WD as my next zippy grocery getter.

My journey with the Accord taught me (the hard way) to research a vehicle before purchasing and to not buy the first MY of a generation.
It looks the later model RAV4.3 V6 doesn't have many issues.
  • Failing oil hose that seems to be fleshed out after 2009
  • Water pump leaking or failing
  • Rear suspension epoxy "recall" that was addressed in 2011+
  • V6 Transmission whine (not mechanically comprising, right?)
  • 4WD Transfer Case whine & rusted vent leading to blown seals
Please let me know what my list is missing!


Additionally, I'm curious as to whether the 2011/2012 have any major (esp. mechanical) changes compared to their older counterparts.
Originally, I was restricting my search to 2011+ since I didn't want to deal with a non-adjustable rear suspension, but after learning about the SPC 67805, I believe that is rendered a non-issue.
I've seen the New Feature PDFs that R4W is hosting, but 2011's PDF doesn't even mention the suspension redesign so I'm unsure what else is being left out.

Choosing between Base/Sport/Limited is more convenience-based and less worrying for me at the moment.
Of course, this is all contingent on a clean PPI and the whole used car buying shebang.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-01-2019, 07:53 AM
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Welcome,

I bought our '06 V6 in 2009 with 75K miles because I specifically wanted a V6 RAV4 for the lowest price.
On the issues you mentioned (good research BTW!):

After the dealer replaced the rubber section of the VVT oil hose with the "updated" rubber one I replaced it with the steel '09-on pipe.

IMO a water pump can fail at any time and isn't peculiar to earlier year models except they tend to have higher mileage. Recently replaced ours at 140K miles. I added my experience on post 15 here: https://www.rav4world.com/forums/99-...p-install.html

Had the rear suspension recall done by Toyota but afterward had to redo it myself due to having to replace the whole rear subframe because of it rusting almost completely thru near one of its four mounting points. Again I consider the issue a fluke not associated with model year.

Never had any transmission whine.

Never had any issue with the rear differential vent and did have it out of the suspension when I changed the subframe. Dealer replaced the electro-coupler under warranty when I mentioned a slight noise. I have a very cooperative dealer.

So, IMO while a newer model toward the 2012 end would likely have lower mileage and less exposure to road salt etc. I see no significant mechanical improvements or changes over our '06.

In fact I'm so confident in the RAV4's V6 4WD drivetrain that I just bought a 2008 Sienna AWD with 186K miles because it has the exact same drivetrain. This post however does remind me to check its VVT hose/pipe.

Fred
2006 RAV4 V6 4WD Barcelona Red Limited - wife's
2018 Accord Hybrid, Blue Pearl - Dr. Dyno's - 47/47 mpg
2003 Odyssey V6 - handy people & cargo mover
1999 F-250 4X4 Diesel - snow plow, Bully Dog chip
2003 F-250 4X4 - eventual replacement for the '99
2001 F-250 4X4 Diesel - truck camper, TS chip, 20' bike/trike dyno trailer
2004 Suzuki DRZ-400S Dual Sport
1968 Volvo 1800S

It's the pedal (or the handgrip) on the right!!


"If you really believe you get what you pay for there's no such thing as a good deal."
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-01-2019, 08:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WILLYumD View Post
Hello all!

I've been in the process of selling my current vehicle (2008 Accord V6) and I've set my sights on the RAV4 V6 4WD as my next zippy grocery getter.

My journey with the Accord taught me (the hard way) to research a vehicle before purchasing and to not buy the first MY of a generation.
It looks the later model RAV4.3 V6 doesn't have many issues.
  • Failing oil hose that seems to be fleshed out after 2009
  • Water pump leaking or failing
  • Rear suspension epoxy "recall" that was addressed in 2011+
  • V6 Transmission whine (not mechanically comprising, right?)
  • 4WD Transfer Case whine & rusted vent leading to blown seals
Please let me know what my list is missing!


Additionally, I'm curious as to whether the 2011/2012 have any major (esp. mechanical) changes compared to their older counterparts.
Originally, I was restricting my search to 2011+ since I didn't want to deal with a non-adjustable rear suspension, but after learning about the SPC 67805, I believe that is rendered a non-issue.
I've seen the New Feature PDFs that R4W is hosting, but 2011's PDF doesn't even mention the suspension redesign so I'm unsure what else is being left out.

Choosing between Base/Sport/Limited is more convenience-based and less worrying for me at the moment.
Of course, this is all contingent on a clean PPI and the whole used car buying shebang.
If you get a 2009 and up model the oil hose would be a metal one instead of the plastic.
You know you can remove the epoxy control arm with heat (torch) and replace it. It is just that is not adjustable due to the epoxy glued tight.
Once the epoxy is removed the old control arm can be replaced with a new one and be adjusted.

The 2011/2012 do have some changes over the older models:
-From 2009 and up tail light changed, rear backup camera added, side signal marker on side mirrors
-From 2010 I think they added an additional plastic cover to protect the charcoal canister hoses (not all but some of it).
-2012 model used different radio wiring harness from all the other years. (maybe it was JBL ?)
-Adjustable lower control arm changed in 2012 model

You should test drive both the 4 and 6 cylinder model to determine which one better for you. I am sure if you loved the Accord V6 then the RAV4 V6 would be just as good.

2009 RAV4 Sport V6 4WD
2005 RAV4 Base 4WD -sold
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-01-2019, 08:55 AM
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There were many recalls during the '06, '07, and '08 model years. Make sure they were done if one of those year models interests you.

Quote:
Choosing between Base/Sport/Limited is more convenience-based and less worrying for me at the moment.
Be aware that the Sport model has very stout suspension. There have been many posts here asking how to soften the somewhat jarring ride quality. Some love it, some regret buying it so take a thorough drive before deciding on one.

2008 Base V-6 (Hers)
2008 Limited V-6 (His)
Tow Prep & front wheel drive (both)
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-01-2019, 09:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DL175 View Post
If you get a 2009 and up model the oil hose would be a metal one instead of the plastic.

-From 2010 I think they added an additional plastic cover to protect the charcoal canister hoses (not all but some of it).

-Adjustable lower control arm changed in 2012 model

I am sure if you loved the Accord V6 then the RAV4 V6 would be just as good.
DL175 points out a couple items I missed but does make one minor mistake.

The '06-'08 oil line is rubber not plastic. Easily upgraded to metal as I've done.

The expensive EVAP system components are mounted under the driver's seat floor and are very exposed on the earlier models. We've had several reports of them getting damaged or even ripped off in icy/snowy conditions. They are covered much better in later models - a mod I added to mine.

I was unaware the the rear control arms were redesigned in 2012 until reading it on this forum but IMO once the earlier ones were set correctly they are good.

I actually bought an 2006 Accord V6 Hybrid after always wanting to drive our RAV4 which is supposed to be my wife's. Finally she said, "Get your own car!" I just couldn't buy anything much slower than the RAV4 and the V6 Hybrid filled the bill nicely until an unfortunate timing belt issue sent it to its grave last month. Anyway, you'll find the V6 RAV4 a very acceptable replacement.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-01-2019, 06:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DL175 View Post


You know you can remove the epoxy control arm with heat (torch) and replace it. It is just that is not adjustable due to the epoxy glued tight.
Once the epoxy is removed the old control arm can be replaced with a new one and be adjusted.

I don't understand this about needing heat to remove the epoxied arms. The epoxy is placed around the turnbuckle part of the arm to prevent any future change in length of the arm. It is not epoxied into place in the suspension of the car. All you need to get the arm off is a ball joint separator and a wrench.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-01-2019, 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Nimbus View Post
I don't understand this about needing heat to remove the epoxied arms. The epoxy is placed around the turnbuckle part of the arm to prevent any future change in length of the arm. It is not epoxied into place in the suspension of the car. All you need to get the arm off is a ball joint separator and a wrench.
Thanks for clearing that up.

2009 RAV4 Sport V6 4WD
2005 RAV4 Base 4WD -sold
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-02-2019, 12:27 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Dyno View Post
Welcome,

I bought our '06 V6 in 2009 with 75K miles because I specifically wanted a V6 RAV4 for the lowest price.
On the issues you mentioned (good research BTW!):

After the dealer replaced the rubber section of the VVT oil hose with the "updated" rubber one I replaced it with the steel '09-on pipe.

IMO a water pump can fail at any time and isn't peculiar to earlier year models except they tend to have higher mileage. Recently replaced ours at 140K miles. I added my experience on post 15 here: --REMOVED LINK PER FORUM LIMIT--

Had the rear suspension recall done by Toyota but afterward had to redo it myself due to having to replace the whole rear subframe because of it rusting almost completely thru near one of its four mounting points. Again I consider the issue a fluke not associated with model year.

Never had any transmission whine.

Never had any issue with the rear differential vent and did have it out of the suspension when I changed the subframe. Dealer replaced the electro-coupler under warranty when I mentioned a slight noise. I have a very cooperative dealer.

So, IMO while a newer model toward the 2012 end would likely have lower mileage and less exposure to road salt etc. I see no significant mechanical improvements or changes over our '06.

In fact I'm so confident in the RAV4's V6 4WD drivetrain that I just bought a 2008 Sienna AWD with 186K miles because it has the exact same drivetrain. This post however does remind me to check its VVT hose/pipe.
Thanks for the anecdotal evidence! Great write up for the water pump, sounds like I'll replace it myself after purchase for peace of mind. I'm leaning towards cars from the SE to limit exposure to rust (still gotta inspect, of course).


Quote:
Originally Posted by DL175 View Post
If you get a 2009 and up model the oil hose would be a metal one instead of the plastic.
You know you can remove the epoxy control arm with heat (torch) and replace it. It is just that is not adjustable due to the epoxy glued tight.
Once the epoxy is removed the old control arm can be replaced with a new one and be adjusted.

The 2011/2012 do have some changes over the older models:
-From 2009 and up tail light changed, rear backup camera added, side signal marker on side mirrors
-From 2010 I think they added an additional plastic cover to protect the charcoal canister hoses (not all but some of it).
-2012 model used different radio wiring harness from all the other years. (maybe it was JBL ?)
-Adjustable lower control arm changed in 2012 model

You should test drive both the 4 and 6 cylinder model to determine which one better for you. I am sure if you loved the Accord V6 then the RAV4 V6 would be just as good.
Cosmetic changes I'm not really concerned about, and audio updates aren't too relevant as I'll be changing out the system anyways. I see some commotion about the charcoal canister shielding, so I might close the window to 2010 - 2012, thanks!


Quote:
Originally Posted by RTexasF View Post
There were many recalls during the '06, '07, and '08 model years. Make sure they were done if one of those year models interests you.

Be aware that the Sport model has very stout suspension. There have been many posts here asking how to soften the somewhat jarring ride quality. Some love it, some regret buying it so take a thorough drive before deciding on one.
I had my eyes on 2009+ for the improvements to reliability and the overall product over the years. I'll try and ride in Base/Limited vs. Sport models to see the difference, but either way I'm planning on some CEIKA coilovers as TEKSMRT used on his RAV4. Thanks!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Dyno View Post
DL175 points out a couple items I missed but does make one minor mistake.

The '06-'08 oil line is rubber not plastic. Easily upgraded to metal as I've done.

The expensive EVAP system components are mounted under the driver's seat floor and are very exposed on the earlier models. We've had several reports of them getting damaged or even ripped off in icy/snowy conditions. They are covered much better in later models - a mod I added to mine.

I was unaware the the rear control arms were redesigned in 2012 until reading it on this forum but IMO once the earlier ones were set correctly they are good.

I actually bought an 2006 Accord V6 Hybrid after always wanting to drive our RAV4 which is supposed to be my wife's. Finally she said, "Get your own car!" I just couldn't buy anything much slower than the RAV4 and the V6 Hybrid filled the bill nicely until an unfortunate timing belt issue sent it to its grave last month. Anyway, you'll find the V6 RAV4 a very acceptable replacement.
I appreciate the additional info! Ah, yes, the JNA1 engine with Variable Cylinder Management. That "feature" is a big reason why I'm selling my Accord... Never again, VCM, never again.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-02-2019, 10:53 PM
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Willy, since you live in Florida, I would suggest getting the 2WD RAV4. That's what I have had for the past 10 years here in Louisiana, and have never seen any advantage to 4WD. In fact I tend to grin when I hear about rear differential problems, transfer unit fluid, u-joints, electromagnetic coupler noise, etc. The 2WD drivetrain is simpler, quieter, and lighter in weight. Also, much less maintenance.

Help RAV4World members help you by providing your car's operating location in your profile page. Climate can cause a RAV4 in Dallas Wisconsin to experience a different set of issues when compared to the same model in Dallas Texas.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-03-2019, 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by JuneBug View Post
Willy, since you live in Florida, I would suggest getting the 2WD RAV4.
I agree if you live where the rain doesn't turn white in winter. But the 2/4WD decision also depends on where and how you drive. Obviously if you drive on the beach or dirt you'll want 4WD. And w/o 4WD you can't do the jackrabbit take-offs the V6 is quite capable of - especially on wet roads which don't slow the 4WD at all.
Of course you'll likely have to go north to find a 4WD model.

What's interesting is I bought our 4WD from a used car dealer in Melbourne FL. Turned out the original owner was from PA as shown on the title. He had traded it on a Prius back when gas prices were up. I found that out when I contacted him about the second key FOB (worth $250) which he was glad to mail to me for free.

Fred
2006 RAV4 V6 4WD Barcelona Red Limited - wife's
2018 Accord Hybrid, Blue Pearl - Dr. Dyno's - 47/47 mpg
2003 Odyssey V6 - handy people & cargo mover
1999 F-250 4X4 Diesel - snow plow, Bully Dog chip
2003 F-250 4X4 - eventual replacement for the '99
2001 F-250 4X4 Diesel - truck camper, TS chip, 20' bike/trike dyno trailer
2004 Suzuki DRZ-400S Dual Sport
1968 Volvo 1800S

It's the pedal (or the handgrip) on the right!!


"If you really believe you get what you pay for there's no such thing as a good deal."
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