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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-02-2019, 03:13 PM Thread Starter
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RAV4 2010 / battery light stays on

I have a 2010 Toyota Rav4 with over 120,000 Km done.

Today the battery light stays on, my current battery is about 13 months old, so went to the nearby workshop, the Mechanic checked the battery and told me that the battery is fine, and asked me to go to an Auto Electrician to check the Dynamo.

It is worth to mention that I did the 120,000Km service by the Toyota workshop only last month.

Last week, when I start my vehicle I noticed a more than the normal racing car like noise lasted for about 10 minutes.

Any suggestions welcome.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-02-2019, 03:33 PM Thread Starter
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I found this note on another site, and I believe my issue is the belt

Quote:
The alternator can sometimes make a whining sound a few times before it goes--that is when your car battery light comes on as a sign that it is now completely faulty and needs replacing. It is usually the accessory or serpentine belt that is built inside the alternator that makes that type of noise. You need to get your car evaluated by a qualified mechanic and get him to look at your alternator.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-02-2019, 06:30 PM
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I found this note on another site, and I believe my issue is the belt

The light indicates that alternator is not charging the battery and typically it happens due to fault in the alternator itself, not the belt. You might not have a very long range after that, 10 miles tops. Then the engine would 'die' due to depleted battery and you'd need a tow.

2011 RAV4 V6 Limited
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-04-2019, 06:50 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for your help "max5gen"
Yes, you are correct, the Machanic found out the fault in the alternator itself, and he replaced it with a used working alternator, then the better charging started to work fine, but still the battery light stays on. Then the Machanic tried all possible ways and count not solve it.

Finally, he put a cable between the Alternator's generator connector and to a bolt of the Alternator, I believe it is a grounding cable to stop the battery light stays on. I believe this is not the solution, but he did a workaround to stop the battery light stays on.

Today, in order to check, I pulled out the Alternator's generator connector to see if the battery light come on, but it is not. Meaning with this workaround that he did next time if the alternator is fault the battery light come on, which worries me.

What do you all suggest to permanently solve this issue?
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 11:47 PM
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Thanks for your help "max5gen"
Yes, you are correct, the Machanic found out the fault in the alternator itself, and he replaced it with a used working alternator, then the better charging started to work fine, but still the battery light stays on. Then the Machanic tried all possible ways and count not solve it.

Finally, he put a cable between the Alternator's generator connector and to a bolt of the Alternator, I believe it is a grounding cable to stop the battery light stays on. I believe this is not the solution, but he did a workaround to stop the battery light stays on.

Today, in order to check, I pulled out the Alternator's generator connector to see if the battery light come on, but it is not. Meaning with this workaround that he did next time if the alternator is fault the battery light come on, which worries me.

What do you all suggest to permanently solve this issue?

The nut on the picture is the output of the alternator and it holds thick wire that normally goes to the + of the battery. This is where high charge current flows from alternator to the battery. The alternator 'connector' powers up 'voltage regulator' inside alternator- the unit responsible for stabilizing battery voltage. One of the pins on that connector also feeds the battery light on the dash. If you unplug the connector alternator will stop charging battery but battery light will not come on as its circuit will be disconnected as well. Placing thin wire from alternator output to anywhere in the car doesn't make much sense to me. It would really help if you could measure voltage on battery posts while running engine at 1000 rpm. It should be in 13.8V-14.4V range.

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old Today, 06:03 AM Thread Starter
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The nut on the picture is the output of the alternator and it holds thick wire that normally goes to the + of the battery. This is where high charge current flows from alternator to the battery. The alternator 'connector' powers up 'voltage regulator' inside alternator- the unit responsible for stabilizing battery voltage. One of the pins on that connector also feeds the battery light on the dash. If you unplug the connector alternator will stop charging battery but battery light will not come on as its circuit will be disconnected as well. Placing thin wire from alternator output to anywhere in the car doesn't make much sense to me. It would really help if you could measure voltage on battery posts while running engine at 1000 rpm. It should be in 13.8V-14.4V range.
Many thanks for your explanations.
The vehicle is running without any issues in this condition for last two weeks, which shows that the battery is getting charged. I hope I don't have to worry any further
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old Today, 08:00 AM
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... One of the pins on that connector also feeds the battery light on the dash. If you unplug the connector alternator will stop charging battery but the battery light will not come on as its circuit will be disconnected as well. Placing thin wire from alternator output to anywhere in the car doesn't make much sense to me.
Thanks Max for the explanation, very concisely written. I also agree that whatever this extra wire is it's probably extraneous.

And IMO the "Battery" light should be an "Alternator" light instead since probably 90% of the times it comes on the battery isn't the cause.

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old Today, 11:29 AM
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Many thanks for your explanations.
The vehicle is running without any issues in this condition for last two weeks, which shows that the battery is getting charged. I hope I don't have to worry any further

that is creative way to check if the battery is charging but luckily it seems to be working. If you are not comfortable to do this yourself then you're right, no need to worry about what exactly fixed the problem.

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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old Today, 11:40 AM
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... And IMO the "Battery" light should be an "Alternator" light instead since probably 90% of the times it comes on the battery isn't the cause.
very true, especially taking into account what that light reflects- inability of the voltage regulator to maintain target voltage. Battery is almost never a problem in such cases. OTOH in cases when the battery is the culprit due to loss of capacity / internal leak that light doesn't come on .

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