Now onto the rear brakes.
Tools you will need and some suggested:
-floor jack, jack stands, wheel chocks
-wheel lug wrench and lock key
-14mm and 17mm sockets with ratchet
-"sort-of" thin adjustable wrench (if caliper pins spin)
-torque wrench(es) (20 ft-lbs through 76 ft-lbs)
-wire and nylon brushes
-flat head screwdriver
-new rear rotors
-new rear pads
-new pad shims, guides, indicators (if needed) *these are steel shims that are usually needing replacing*
-brake cleaner (forget non-chlorinated, it's junk)
-warm water, dish soap, brush
-clean paper towels (forget red shop rags, they're evil)
I'm using the right hand side (RHS) as my example. Let's get this thing up were we can work on it.
Find a solid location to lift with the floor jack. Then place a jack stand in a solid location under the lower control arm (LCA). No sense in taking any chances. Remove any wheel locks with your key, remove remaining wheel lugs with your lug wrench of choice, set the wheel aside. I usually set the wheel under the side rails for additional buffer between the car, me, and the ground. I also tend to use rubber wheel chocks behind the front tires. Pulling the parking brake is not going to work in this case since it will make it terrible to get the rear rotors off.
Remove the two (2) caliper mounting bolts Red Circles
with a 14mm socket. If the slider pin starts spinning then use an adjustable wrench that fits in there to hold the pin in place.
*It's a bit tighter than the normal wrench thickness.*
Pull the caliper off of the pads and caliper bracket.
Since I'm not opening the fluid lines, the caliper hook nicely to the upper link and holds it out of the way. Huh this is an alloy caliper, light but they get plenty crusty.
Remove the two (2) caliper bracket bolts Red Circles
with a 17mm socket.
Rotate parking brake adjuster to bottom (if not already) and carefully pry out the rubber plug. You need to get into there to loosen the parking brake enough to clear the rotor.
A flat head screwdriver works great for this. You're not going to be able to see what you are doing, it will be more by "feel". Moving the toothed wheel downwards will loosen the parking brakes.
I used some left over 8mmx1.25 bolts in the threaded holes to help dislodge the rotor off of the hub. Not really a fan of beating rotors with mallets but you have to get that off somehow. Careful use of heat and penetrating oils are also helpful.
......need to find photo
There we go. I suggest some cleanup work on the hub surfaces with a wire brush. Red Arrow
location should be clean so the new rotor fits in place easily.
Strange I know, again with the washing. A quick scrub with a nylon brush in some soapy water, follow up with good brake cleaner on the surfaces, and wipe with paper towels until they wipe clean. Forgot a photo of the brake cleaner but you get the idea.
I like to put a thin coating of anti-seize in this area.
Then slide the new rotor into place and use two wheel lugs to hold things in place while you install the rest of the parts.