I condensed this thread from: 2GR-FEV6 LSC90K (recall) oil line fails-Dealer...
I'd previously posted my experience in installing the pipe in post 53 and a very interesting discussion with the dealer in post 48 here: 2GR-FEV6 LSC90K (recall) oil line fails-Dealer...
From member RPM originally posted on 04-09-2009:
I'd previously posted my experience in installing the pipe in post 53 and a very interesting discussion with the dealer in post 48 here: 2GR-FEV6 LSC90K (recall) oil line fails-Dealer...
From member RPM originally posted on 04-09-2009:
Well, after a couple of hours and beers later I was able to complete the VVT-i oil line installation. It was more work than I thought but if you take your time it's not too difficult. I used TSB # EG064-05 from the Avalon for part #'s and torque specs.
When you order the oil line be sure to order two 90430–16012 gaskets and one 90430–16016 gasket. These are crush type washers that should only be used once.
I originally had the Rav on ramps for ease of access to the lower banjo fitting however this bolt was extremely tight and I ended up jacking the car and removing the front passenger wheel so I could put longer bar on my ratchet for leverage. Make sure to use your jack stands.
Below is how I removed and installed the oil line. If you are planning on doing this yourself put down cardboard or rags on the floor since there will be a bit of an oil drip.
#1: Remove the timing gear cover bolts (2x 10mm). It's a pretty tight fit but I was able to reach down with a 3/8 drive torque wrench to loosen the bolts then unscrew them the rest of the way by hand.
#2: Remove the VVT-i oil line bracket (1x 10mm) using the same method as above.
#3: Loosen the upper banjo fitting (1x 17mm). Unscrew the bolt by hand and you will see a mesh filter screen at the end of the bolt- don't lose this. Don't worry about dropping the washer gaskets as they will be replaced.
#4: Loosen the lower banjo fitting (1x 17mm). As I mentioned above this was difficult to remove without a long-handled ratchet. You will also need an 6" extension with a short socket to get a good grip. Notice all the oil around the block- oil would drip onto the drive shaft and spray everywhere- talk about undercoating.
#5: New parts next to the old ones
#6: Wipe off all the oil around the banjo sealing faces and bolts
#7: Install the double washer gasket on the bottom of the oil line and feed it from the top of the engine bay. Be sure you don't knock the washer off on the way down as it would be difficult to replace once you're underneath the Rav.
#8: Install and hand-tighten the banjo bolts and bracket bolts to make sure everything lines up. Don't forget to install the mesh filter and new washer gaskets on the upper banjo bolt. Torque the bracket bolt to 7 ft/lbs and both banjo bolts to 48 ft/lbs.
#9: Top off the oil, run the engine, and check for leaks. Replace timing gear cover if no leaks are detected. The TSB notes to replace the oil-soaked cover with a new one- I just used a rag to soak up the oil to reuse it.
#10: New oil line
This is just how I did the install myself so proceed at your own risk. If you're not comfortable with the job don't do it.
Cheers,
RPM