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SoCalAngler

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
In the near future, I would like to service the brakes, front and rear, on my 2018 Adventure.

I have a 3 ton floor jack and both 3 and 6 ton jack stands. The 6 ton stands are too tall and are typically used for my 3500 HD truck and travel trailer.

I purchased 4 of the 3 ton jack stands for my smaller vehicles, including my RAV4.

I will jack front and rear from the center jack points referenced in the owner's manual.

I would like to place jack stands under pinch welds, as pinch welds are designed to handle the weight.

I was looking at the pinch welds (lifting area for emergency oem jack placement) to see what would safely without damaging the pinch weld.

The rubber pinch weld adapters that attach to jack stands are all I can find.
I believe the rubber may just crush under weight. I could not find anything that resembled the metal part located on the oem emergency jack (see pics below). I did find metal pinch weld adapters, but they are for using under a jack, not jack stand.

For those of you that do service your brakes....How are you handling using jack stands with this pinch weld issue?

Also, I am not sure of the pinch weld itself is the reinforced portion designed to support the vehicle's weight or is it the rocker panel just above the pinch weld? I'd have to place my emergency jack in position to see where it "actually" lifts....unless someone has verified this.

I did find these, that appear to be just what the doctor ordered!

Forsvara pinch weld adaptors

Forsvara

Thoughts and Thanks!

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In the near future, I would like to service the brakes, front and rear, on my 2018 Adventure.

I have a 3 ton floor jack and both 3 and 6 ton jack stands. The 6 ton stands are too tall and are typically used for my 3500 HD truck and travel trailer.

I purchased 4 of the 3 ton jack stands for my smaller vehicles, including my RAV4.

I will jack front and rear from the center jack points referenced in the owner's manual.

I would like to place jack stands under pinch welds, as pinch welds are designed to handle the weight.

I was looking at the pinch welds (lifting area for emergency oem jack placement) to see what would safely without damaging the pinch weld.

The rubber pinch weld adapters that attach to jack stands are all I can find.
I believe the rubber may just crush under weight. I could not find anything that resembled the metal part located on the oem emergency jack (see pics below). I did find metal pinch weld adapters, but they are for using under a jack, not jack stand.

For those of you that do service your brakes....How are you handling using jack stands with this pinch weld issue?

Also, I am not sure of the pinch weld itself is the reinforced portion designed to support the vehicle's weight or is it the rocker panel just above the pinch weld? I'd have to place my emergency jack in position to see where it "actually" lifts....unless someone has verified this.

I did find these, that appear to be just what the doctor ordered! Perhaps, I can fabricate these myself?

Forsvara pinch weld adaptors

Thoughts and Thanks!

View attachment 209343 View attachment 209344 View attachment 209345
I bought a quick jack, and it came with pinch weld blocks, but you can buy them separately as well: Pinch-Weld Blocks

They sell them on Amazon, too.

I have heard that many pinch weld blocks are either too hard or too soft, and get damaged easily. I have had no problems with the QuickJack blocks. You can also stack them up if your car is higher off the ground than normal.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Those pinch weld blocks are for jacks, not jack stands. Standard jacks without adaptors have no issues lifting in center jack points....it's the jack stands that need an adaptor for the pinch welds.
 
Those pinch weld blocks are for jacks, not jack stands. Standard jacks without adaptors have no issues lifting in center jack points....it's the jack stands that need an adaptor for the pinch welds.
They have those on Amazon too. I have several for the 8 jack stands that I have. You may have to order a couple of different ones to try. They are dirt cheap IMO. Actually have 12 jack stands. The other 4 just have a flat rubber top to fit under various places of my RAV4 or other smaller vehicle.
 
I have those rubber adapter on jack stands, they have held well in the last 5yrs lifting Sienna and a Highlander (both heavier than a Rav). Also, not expensive to replace when needed.
 
Discussion starter · #6 · (Edited)
I am referring to the ALL METAL pinch weld adaptors for JACK STANDS. NOT the cheap rubber ones.

These are the BEST that I could fins. ALL metal, made in USA by a small company, and appear to be of HIGH quality. IMHO...If you are an avid DIYer, these are a MUST!

To heck the the cheap Chinese rubber ones....I'm getting me some!

Forsvara pinch weld adaptors
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
I have those rubber adapter on jack stands, they have held well in the last 5yrs lifting Sienna and a Highlander (both heavier than a Rav). Also, not expensive to replace when needed.
Can you pleas provide a link to the ones you purchased....most I have seen are very cheap flimsy rubber.
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Nice metal ones that scratch paint? I'll keep my hard rubber ones, TYVM
Now that I think about it.....what about some thin rubber placed between U block of pinch weld adapter and pinch weld to protect paint? Jack stand is not moving around causing adaptor to scratch paint.
 
I do my own brake work. The jack stands I like to use the pinch welds if it looks good and strong. If not then I put the jack stands under the subframe as they will rust as much as the pinch welds but are made heftier. So, they should with stand the weight. Do not forget to put blocks on the wheels, that are on the ground, to keep them from rolling. I use 3 ton jack stands as two ton jack stands are too small and easily tip over in comparison to 3 ton jack stands. If changing oil them I use rhino ramps. The only problem with DIY is the problems you run into. Like the brake rotor doesn't want to come off (living in rust belt). Or someone put loc-tite on the brake bolts which make them almost impossible to take off. Or if the wheel doesn't want to come off the car. I tried the baseball bat method and the bat just bounces of the tire. So, now I use a big heavy chisel and hammer between the rotor and wheel rim.
 
I do my own brake work. The jack stands I like to use the pinch welds if it looks good and strong. If not then I put the jack stands under the subframe as they will rust as much as the pinch welds but are made heftier. So, they should with stand the weight. Do not forget to put blocks on the wheels, that are on the ground, to keep them from rolling. I use 3 ton jack stands as two ton jack stands are too small and easily tip over in comparison to 3 ton jack stands. If changing oil them I use rhino ramps. The only problem with DIY is the problems you run into. Like the brake rotor doesn't want to come off (living in rust belt). Or someone put loc-tite on the brake bolts which make them almost impossible to take off. Or if the wheel doesn't want to come off the car. I tried the baseball bat method and the bat just bounces of the tire. So, now I use a big heavy chisel and hammer between the rotor and wheel rim.
For the stuck wheel, a long handle sledge hammer is the trick. Leave 2 lug nuts on very loose. Hit the inside edge of the rim down at the 6 o’clock position. It pops right off almost always with 1 hit.
 
Can you pleas provide a link to the ones you purchased....most I have seen are very cheap flimsy rubber.
I haven't had any problems with them being "cheap flimsy rubber". And I have used them several times. I will use the rubber before I use anything metal for this purpose.

The hard part is finding ones that will sit in the cradle of your jack stand well.
 
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