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Toyota dealers are more expensive because the dealership gives it a complete Toyota certified inspection to make sure things are okay, and extended Toyota warranties are available, which is not so with a Toyota vehicle sold by an independent seller. That was the issue confronting me when I recently bought my RAV4: Toyota dealer '09 Sport V6 or FORD dealer '09 Limited V6. Did I really want a meagre used-vehicle Ford warranty & Ford mechanics on a Toyota, or did I want a full brand new 60K km/3year Toyota warranty with any issues dealt with by Toyota mechancis?

People here will have all sorts of opinions on such issues, but ultimately it's up to you cuz you seen the vehicle, driven it, heard the info, and know more than anyone with regard to your proposed purchases.

BTW... glad I didn't go with the Ford dealer/Ltd 09 Rav. for various reasons not pertaining to your situation so I won't bore you (further :rolleyes:).
I could put 2 complete transmissions in my Rav4 compared to the difference of the Toyota "Certified" price. I bought mine at a Ford dealer. You couldn't pay me to take my Toyota or any car to the local Toyota dealer I have near me. If I had my choice locally, it doesn't matter what car I had, I would go to the local Ford dealer for repair, but I digress since I do 99% of my own auto work and go to a good independent shop close to me (I live in the middle of nowhere and dealers are 45 minutes away) for the other 1%.

$19k vs. $25k was quite a large difference between the flawless '10 V6 Limited I bought at a Ford dealer vs. the 2 scratched to heck (owned by werewolves as the OP stated) '10 V6 Limiteds that were available "Certified".

$6,000 for:

The Toyota Certified Used Vehicles Advantage


  • 12-month/12,000-mile Limited Comprehensive Warranty1
  • 7-year/100,000-mile Limited Powertrain Warranty2
  • 1-year of Roadside Assistance3
  • 160-Point Quality Assurance Inspection
  • CARFAX® Vehicle History Report™4
  • Certified customers are eligible for standard new car financing rates5
1 Year of roadside assistance? I've had a car towed twice in 25 years of driving, so $6000 isn't worth it to pay a $50 tow fee twice in 25 years. It's my wife's car, if she got a flat, she has a spare but would call me to come put the spare on it. If she had a dead battery, she would call me to give her a jump. If she ran out of gas, well, I'm the one who fills her gas tank and still fill it up at 1/4 tank because her previous vehicle wouldn't make it to work and back on 1/4 tank. The Rav4 would have plenty at 1/4 to get her to work, back, and work again compared to that last vehicle, but I still fill her up at 1/4 tank.

160 point quality inspection? Like I said, I do all my own auto work, I can figure that stuff out myself looking at the car. It isn't worth $6000 for them to look at the brakes and have them replaced if worn when I can do the same after I get home for $50. I'm pretty sure every dealer would check fluids, brakes, etc before putting a car on their lot to sell.

$6000 for a CarFax report? Pulled up the CarFax report on all 3 cars (1 at the Ford and the 2 "Certified" cars) from the internet ads for nothing. CarFax is utterly useless anyways as it only tells what was reported. I totaled my old 189k mile 4Runner 3 times. Guess what? It had a perfectly clean CarFax report because I didn't call anyone to put it in a report that I rewelded a 1986 pickup truck front end on my 1988 4Runner. I am only looking to see the registration information each year on the CarFax as I want a southern car when buying something 5 years old like my own work runner car (no salt in the winter down south.)

$6000 for finance rate? I got the same finance rate from my Credit Union as they were offering. It was 1.9% on Certified Pre Owned, same as my Credit Union.

That leaves us with warranty. I just received the note in the main about an extended warranty. What is it, like $600 or something? Far cry from $6000.

No, I definitely don't decide on a car based on what dealership it is selling at or whether it is "Certified" or not. "Certified" certainly doesn't seem to be the economical choice to me.
 
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I could put 2 complete transmissions in my Rav4 compared to the difference of the Toyota "Certified" price. I bought mine at a Ford dealer. You couldn't pay me to take my Toyota or any car to the local Toyota dealer I have near me. If I had my choice locally, it doesn't matter what car I had, I would go to the local Ford dealer for repair, but I digress since I do 99% of my own auto work and go to a good independent shop close to me (I live in the middle of nowhere and dealers are 45 minutes away) for the other 1%.

$19k vs. $25k was quite a large difference between the flawless '10 V6 Limited I bought at a Ford dealer vs. the 2 scratched to heck (owned by werewolves as the OP stated) '10 V6 Limiteds that were available "Certified".
I guess it depends on where you live .

My certified Toyota 09 Sport V6 was competitively priced compared to non-dealers and private sellers I researched. So I certainly didn't feel any significant price difference between Toyota certified and not certified.

And 19K for a flawless '10 Ltd V6 at your Ford dealership is sweet, and is a far cry from the 09 Ltd V6 at my Ford dealer who wanted 25K (taxes included) for a vehicle with scratches and a nasty one on the driver's side where the previous owner didn't even use the right color paint to remedy it. (I think.. if they were that lazy and careless... what else??) But like I wrote, it's all about where you live with regard to prices, dealers you can trust, and deals you can make. Bottom line.. I'm quite happy with the Sport V6 I got, the price I paid, and the new full comprehensive warranty I got.
 
Any suggestions on where is the good point to start looking for auto loan? Should I start at credit unions?
You should have done that in advance. You MUST be ready and able to buy when you find the right vehicle. To answer you a credit union is likely the best place to go but not always. Get your loan approved NOW and have down payment at the ready.

Just curious what else is covered in the basic 36/36000 miles warranty?
Essentially bumper to bumper excluding normal wear items like tires, brakes, etc.

Extended Toyota Warranty:
Click on the link I provided in post #19. Once there the very first post provides Jerry's phone number. If you have questions just call him and ask. He's one really nice guy, very low key, and answers all questions.
 
Sorry for the basic question, I am new to all car buying stuff. What is toyota extended warranty? What does it cover? Is it a good buy?

Thanks
i am just a new rav4 owner for 2 weeks. i got mine 2010 rav4 in toyota dealer. they wanted to sell me the 5yrs/xxx miles (i forgot how many miles) ext warranty for $1695. they said it almost covers everything, except brake pads, wipers, tires etc...of course i didnt buy it cos it is way too expensive.

the next day when i called my insurance to add the rav4 into my policy. they said the have this kind of ext warranty for my car too. 6yrs/100k miles for only $415 platinum plan (cover mechanical and factory electronics)! for $615 includes extra electronics, eg dvd players, premium sound sys that you added into your car.

so you can tell the difference. i suggest you call you insurance co to find out. but i guess if you used car has too high mileage, they may not offer you ext warranty....
 
We are looking for rav4 with third row seat and these two are the only ones available within 200 miles with low miles and low price too. Dealer prices are very expensive.
i am a new owner too. i just got mine 2010 rav4 7-seat red with 25,500 miles in toyota dealer for $15988 + tax and lic. i dont know if it is the best deal in town. i searched all dealers and private within 50 miles and this toyota dealer has the lowest listing price (one hour drive) then i started to negotiate the price with the internet manager before i went there cos even a private seller was asking $16900 for his 35xxx miles rav4 5-seat. of course, mine is not perfect, it comes with some scratches on bumper and door but acceptable to me. however, i only got 1 key. thats why i have been searching for help here and thanks junebug for his comments as well...:thumbs_up:

for your worry about color, i wont worry much cos yours is suv, not a red skyline, so i dont think the color matters...
 
i am a new owner too. i just got mine 2010 rav4 7-seat red with 25,500 miles in toyota dealer for $15988 + tax and lic.

for your worry about color, i wont worry much cos yours is suv, not a red skyline, so i dont think the color matters...
Good thing y'all aren't shopping in Canada. Up here, that 2010 Rav4 ya got for 16K woulda been $21K easy up here... and then add 13% taxes and licensing. They make RAVs up here in Canada and we STILL take up the backside on prices... new or used.

BTW color matters if a vehicle is an extension of your personality... or the color of your team. :thumbs_up:
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
the next day when i called my insurance to add the rav4 into my policy. they said the have this kind of ext warranty for my car too. 6yrs/100k miles for only $415 platinum plan (cover mechanical and factory electronics)! for $615 includes extra electronics, eg dvd players, premium sound sys that you added into your car.
Can you tell me which insurance company you called? Does the 6 years start after the completion of 3 years/36000 miles or does the 6 years start from the actual date of purchase in 2010
 
Hi,

Newbie, buying a car/ Your help is much appreciated.


Which is better buy:

choice 1: 2010 rav4 red color, few scratches and some stains inside 29000 miles

choice 2: 2010 rav4 grey color, clean inside and out, 39000 miles.

both are same price, which one should i choose? and which is better in terms of resale value later on

Thanks in advance
Can we assume that the powertrains are the same here? If one is a V6 and the other an I4, that would change the complexion of the conversation, would it not?

Personally, the grey one sounds like the better option to me. As was mentioned earlier, if the car has been keyed then that is not an inexpensive fix. And what does a scratch in the fabric look like? A tear waiting to happen? Lots of stains? That is blaring "not well taken care of" to me.

10,000 miles difference should be nothing for a Toyota. I wouldn't even consider that an important factor if the grey one really is completely clean - no major scratches, no stains, no tears, clean CarFax, maintenance records up to date.

And if the seller really bought them at auction, there should be room to move on price - don't take any static from the seller on that. You should never be more desperate to buy than the seller is to sell.
 
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Discussion starter · #30 ·
Thank you all for the valuable replies. We decided to go with the Red one, becuase only that one had the service records in toyota website, the grey did not have any service records. I called jerry and he said the red one is eligible for the extended warranty. We applied for loan last night and got approved for 1.99%. So very happy, excited to get the car. Hopefully we should have by next week.

Thanks once again...:)
 
Can you tell me which insurance company you called? Does the 6 years start after the completion of 3 years/36000 miles or does the 6 years start from the actual date of purchase in 2010
my 3/36000 expired since it is 2010 model.
the 6 year starts from the date you purchase the ext warranty. eg, if you purchased it on 5/1/13, the end date will be 4/30/19 or 100k miles odometer reading whichever comes first.

btw, $100 deductible each time. my policy provider is mercury. you can ask yours to see if they have this program. good luck!:thumbs_up:
 
my 3/36000 expired since it is 2010 model.
the 6 year starts from the date you purchase the ext warranty. eg, if you purchased it on 5/1/13, the end date will be 4/30/19 or 100k miles odometer reading whichever comes first.

btw, $100 deductible each time. my policy provider is mercury. you can ask yours to see if they have this program. good luck!:thumbs_up:
Your's is aftermarket. The actual Toyota Extended Warranty varies by time and miles depending on which one you purchase. Also there is no deductible.
 
Thank you all for the valuable replies. We decided to go with the Red one, becuase only that one had the service records in toyota website, the grey did not have any service records. I called jerry and he said the red one is eligible for the extended warranty. We applied for loan last night and got approved for 1.99%. So very happy, excited to get the car. Hopefully we should have by next week.

Thanks once again...:)
Great! Congratulations, glad we could help. Call Jerry with credit card in hand as soon as you sign the paperwork. If you wish to compare, just ask the dealer's finance man how much they would charge for the same warranty that Jerry quoted you. I believe it is called Toyota Extra Care.
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
Great! Congratulations, glad we could help. Call Jerry with credit card in hand as soon as you sign the paperwork. If you wish to compare, just ask the dealer's finance man how much they would charge for the same warranty that Jerry quoted you. I believe it is called Toyota Extra Care.
Thanks RtexasF, will call jerry once we get the car.
 
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