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hanipman

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
So I recently installed a keyless entry system in my 2000 Rav4, but I'm having trouble figuring out how to have the dome lights turn on when I unlock my car.
Here are the wires I've already connected:
White->Blue/White (Power Lock)
White/Black->Blue/Yellow (Power Unlock
Yellow->Body Ground
Yellow/Black->Body Ground
Black->Body Ground
Red->White (Constant 12V)

The brown wire is supposed to tap into the parking lights, but I'd rather have them go to the dome lights.

From the wiring diagram online, the Red/Yellow wire is for dome light, but I tried tapping into the Red/Yellow at the driver side fuse box, but none of them worked. Any advice?

Edit: It seems I wouldn't have been able to do connect the brown wire to the dome light anyway. The brown wire sends electricity in pulses.

Instead I'm looking into trying to somehow have the KES send voltage into the dome light circuit.
 
#2 ·
Which Keyless entry system are you installing?
Do you have a link to the install manual?

Not all systems use the same wire colors or have the same functions.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
It's this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Remote-Central-Locking-Keyless-Controllers/dp/B006QH9C5A/ref=cm_cr_pr_pb_t

The instructions for this was literally just a diagram. Just enough for me to understand it.

Yet, after doing some research, I've decided to go ahead and connect the brown wire to the parking lights. I'm now trying to figure out how to use a relay, so that when the KES activates the power unlock, the dome light comes on. I'm thinking:
30->12V
85->Power Unlock(-)
86->12V
87->domelight supervision(-)

I doubt myself though. 86 might be a ground...
 
#4 ·
A couple of things...

You have to probe the domelight wire in the car. There's usually 3 wires at the dome light.
1 - Ground
2 - Constant/Hot
3 - Door/Supervision

Door/Supervision can be either Ground Switched(-) or Positive Switched (+). This means that it will rest at one and switch to the other when door goes from closed to open.

If the vehicle's Supervision wire rests at Positive when the doors are closed and the domelight is off, then switches to Positive, then you should be able to tap into this wire with your KES Supervision wire. However, if the Supervision wire rests at ground and switches to Positive when you open the door, you will need to wire up a relay like so:

30 -> +12V
85 -> Domelight Supervision(-)
86 -> +12V
87 -> Vehicle Supervision Wire

Another thing to keep in mind is that the use of a relay will not allow the domelight to fade on or off, but instead will be an "instant" on and instant off.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Unfortunately, I'm not even sure if my KES even has a supervision wire. The remaining three wires were included in case of a positive trigger central locking system.

Also, sorry for my ignorance, but I have no idea what the vehicle supervision wire is. I kinda get the idea, but I'm not sure what wire you're referring to.

As for the fading, I'm planning to learn some coding to program a PICAXE board. From what I can tell, it's better than having to rely on capacitors.
 
#6 ·
hanipman said:
Unfortunately, I'm not even sure if my KES even has a supervision wire. The remaining three wires were included in case of a positive trigger central locking system.

Also, sorry for my ignorance, but I have no idea what the vehicle supervision wire is. I kinda get the idea, but I'm not sure what wire you're referring to.

As for the fading, I'm planning to learn some coding to program a PICAXE board. From what I can tell, it's better than having to rely on capacitors.
Click to expand...
I assumed your KES had a Domelight Supervision wire since you had mentioned it before. Can you upload the installation instructions or the wiring diagram at least? I used to install Alarms/Remote Starts for a living so I'm sure I could help you with a little more information.

As for the creating your own fading circuit, it's not as tough as you think. You would need to program the PICAXE (or whichever microcontroller you use) to simulate Pulse Wave Modulation (PWM) triggered off of the KES outputs.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Here's the diagrams:

Image


Image


The wire I was talking about is merely meant to connect to the parking lights. I realized it was programmed to send two pulses of electricity, so not ideal for what I had in mind.

As for PICAXE, it will likely take a while. While I do like to prioritize my personal projects, college is really time consuming this semester. And as bad as it is, I'll be putting every effort into fixing up my car, as I feel far more interested in it.
 
#8 ·
Looks like your KES does not have a Domelight Supervision output.

First off DO NOT put more energy into anything other than school. I say this from experience.


If you really want to add domelights upon unlock, it can certainly be done with some extra components. You'll need two 1A diodes and a Pulse Timer relay. I like to use the 528T made by Directed
Amazon.com : Directed Electronics Inc 528T 12v Accessory Pulse Timer : Vehicle Alarm Accessories : Car Electronics .

Here is the instruction manual for the 528T http://www.directeddealers.com/manuals/ig/accessories/N528T_01-05.pdf

See the diagram below (excuse the crude drawing, I just drew it up now). Ignore the parts marked red. This diagram is assuming two things:

1 - You wired up the KES for Negative Trigger door locks
2 - You've already found the wire at the domelight that switches from Negative/Ground to Positive when the doors are opened (labeled in my diagram as Switched Power).

Image


Let me know if something doesn't make sense or doesn't match up.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Thank you. I'm a novice at wiring and it'll be my first time using diodes, but a little research won't hurt. From what I can tell, on unlock, the central locking system circuit completes and electricity flows toward the black/white (trigger). The 528T activates and switches on brown to complete the dome light circuit. The diodes prevent the current from going in the wrong direction and overloading anything. Hopefully I got that right?

Also, I'm looking into courtesy and/or footwell lights for a future mod. I'd just add it between the dome harness and the node on the switched power wire? As well as the PICAXE board when I eventually finish it?
 
#10 ·
hanipman said:
Thank you. I'm a novice at wiring and it'll be my first time using diodes, but a little research won't hurt. From what I can tell, on unlock, the central locking system circuit completes and electricity flows toward the black/white (trigger). The 528T activates and switches on brown to complete the dome light circuit. The diodes prevent the current from going in the wrong direction and overloading anything. Hopefully I got that right?

Also, I'm looking into courtesy and/or footwell lights for a future mod. I'd just add it between the dome harness and the node on the switched power wire? As well as the PICAXE board when I eventually finish it?
Click to expand...
You got it. The Diode between the KES and Vehicle unlock wire is there so that only an unlock command from the KES will trigger the 528T and not one from door switch. The other Diode ont he domelight harness is there so that you can supply power to it (to light it up) without feeding back into the vehicle.

Another thing I just thought of is that you may need another relay so that the domelight shuts off upon "sensing" ignition. This way the domelight shuts off once you turn the car on. I'll draw that up and add it for you later.
 
#11 ·
I neatened it up for you. Adding in a relay to interrupt the pulse timer relay's output upon ignition will turn off the domelight output. In other words, you will hit unlock on your key fob, the dome light will turn on. The light will turn off on it's own depending on how long of a delay you've set up on the 528T. However, if you turn the key to ON in the vehicle before the timer has run out, the domelight will shut off, returning to normal operation.

Image
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
So I've wired everything up, but I've ran into some problems.

Upon opening the door, the light doesn't turn on anymore. This means that with the door ground switch on, the electricity doesn't flow through.

The second problem, is that the lights do not come on upon unlock button. This means that even with the door ground switch off, the electricity still does not flow through.

The wire coming from 30, i put on the door trigger wire under the driver kick panel. I'm thinking that because I placed the door ground switch before the 528T, the circuit can never complete. When the door is open, the door ground switch is on, but because the 528T hasn't been triggered, the ground is still not complete. When the door is closed, and the unlock button is pressed, since the door ground switch is off, the ground doesn't complete.

So would I be right in assuming I can just wire the 30 anywhere before the driver ground switch?
 
#13 · (Edited)
Driver ground switch? Do you mean the driver's door trigger?

If so, that's not where you should be connecting 30 from the relay. 30 should be going directly to the harness that plugs into the domelight.

Essentially this is what the circuit is doing:

Black/White is the trigger input to the 528T. Upon receiveing and then losing ground, the 528T switches to Normally Open State. This allows +12V to flow from the Yellow wire to the Brown wire.

The brown wire (via the relay) now passes +12V from pin 87a of the relay to pin 30.

Pin 30 now powers the domelight harness lighting the dome light. Again, this is assuming you've tested the wire that changes polarity at the domelight harness and have found that it switches from normally resting at ground to +12V upon opening any door.

Once the vehicle is turned on, the relay is energized. This breaks the connection between pin 87a and 30, preventing +12V from the 528T from reaching the domelight harness in case the 528T's delay is either set too long or you happen to start the vehicle before the delay is over.

The more I read your post the more I'm thinking you're tying into the driver's door trigger (the switch at the door jamb). Disconnect that ASAP. That wire rests high (+12V) or Open, and should not have +12V sent to it at any time. You risk shorting out whatever module or computer monitors that wire.
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
Image


At the harness there are three wires: blue/yellow, white/black, and red/yellow. I tested the voltage at each of the wires. The blue/yellow remained at ~.5V. The white/black was 0. And the red/yellow was 12V door closed, and ~.1V door opened. That being said I am now unsure where to put the 30 wire. Previously I had thought it would be the red/yellow wire, as it is noted as the door trigger wire.
 
#15 ·
hanipman said:
Image


At the harness there are three wires: blue/yellow, white/black, and red/yellow. I tested the voltage at each of the wires. The blue/yellow remained at ~.5V. The white/black was 0. And the red/yellow was 12V door closed, and ~.1V door opened. That being said I am now unsure where to put the 30 wire. Previously I had thought it would be the red/yellow wire, as it is noted as the door trigger wire.
Click to expand...
Ok, so you have a negative/ground triggered domelight.

On the 528T Switch the Yellow wire to Ground instead of +12V and flip the diode around on the domelight harness. This is the wire you want to tap into that goes to pin 30 of the relay.

That should be all you need to do.
 
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