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RickPro

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Like many others, I was unhappy with the sound quality. Basically the dash speakers are just too loud compared with the other speakers. I thought that using the least efficient 3.5" speakers I could find might fix the problem. It did. I used Sound Ordinance P-35B speakers from Crutchfield. They are 4 ohm speakers with an 84db efficiency rating. Most 3.5 speakers seem to have an efficiency rating around 90db. I also used 3.5" foam baffles. Not sure if they help, but the thought was they might keep some sound from bouncing around inside the dash. After hooking up the first speaker I turned the system on and the new speaker was much quieter than the stock speaker. I had to put my ear to it to be sure it was playing.

The new speakers have transformed the system. I no-longer have the bass all the way up with the mids all the way down. The musical detail is also greatly improved. I had not realized just how bad the stock speakers were. The sound is now what it should have been.

The speakers were $29.99. The baffles were 6.99. I used red Scotch Locks for the wiring so I could easily reinstall the stock speakers if needed.

Tools were a 10mm ratchet, a plastic trim tool for the speaker grills, pliers for the scotch locks, scissors to trim the baffles, and an exacto knife to cut holes in the baffles for the speaker bolts and wires.

If you don't want to do it yourself, it would be a quick job for a car stereo shop. Just be sure they use low efficiency speakers.
 
You can test you speakers via "hidden menu" one by one.
Did it make difference?

Hidden menu: Press and hold the Audio (or Apps) button on the left side of the radio. Turn the vehicle lights switch to the full on position, then off, then on then off, then on, then off. Three full cycles of on/off. You should get to the individual speaker test
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Hi, Don't need to test my system. We usually keep cars for a relatively long time. We have had the RAV for a month, it's an '18, and my wife was already talking about trading it because of the sound. Sounds too good to be true, but replacing the dash speakers with very low efficiency units turned the crappiest system ever into the best system ever. I would not change a single thing about it.
 
Well, I have to say this really is a huge improvement. Bought the Sound Ordinance 3.5" fronts from Crutchfield and dropped them in today. It does indeed cause the sound field to fill in better from the rear and balance the overall imaging so its not so front oriented. Easily the best $40 I've spent on car stereo in decades. Even sounds reasonable in the back seat. How could Toyota miss something this simple?
 
Forgot to add that I also used Crutchfield's 4" foam baffles as mentioned by the OP. They were a hair tight but I was surprised that without them you can see all the way down into the dashboard packaging and wires. That back echo without them cant be good for the sound either.
 

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Didn't shoot any video, but its pretty straight forward. The grills pop off by prying up on their side. Speakers are just held in by two 10mm bolts. Just two wires on each speaker. You can either use the Scotch Locks mentioned above to tap in or (as I did) just cut, solder and cover with tape. The baffles are easy to shape with a scissor and to cut a small hole for the wire. The grill just pops back on by inserting the two back prongs first and then pushing down on the front.

Because you are essentially desensitizing the dash speakers, all the other speakers, including the sub will pick up level and fill in the sound field. The reason this doesn't happen with the front/rear Toyota fader adjustment is that the factory sub seems to be run off the front circuit, so you cant turn the fronts down in the factory setup without turning the sub down.

I had already added a small secondary external sub to help the stock situation and it did for the sounds in the bass region. This tweeter/mid modification however improves the sound throughout the whole spectrum. Its quite an amazing amount of bang for the buck.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Jtran, When you order from Crutchfield they include RAV4 installation instructions by email. If you use Scotch Locks you can tap into the factory speaker wires without cutting the factory connectors. This allows re-installation of the factory speakers should you ever want to.

Gerry, glad you are enjoying your new system :)
 
Didn't shoot any video, but its pretty straight forward. The grills pop off by prying up on their side. Speakers are just held in by two 10mm bolts. Just two wires on each speaker. You can either use the Scotch Locks mentioned above to tap in or (as I did) just cut, solder and cover with tape. The baffles are easy to shape with a scissor and to cut a small hole for the wire. The grill just pops back on by inserting the two back prongs first and then pushing down on the front.

Because you are essentially desensitizing the dash speakers, all the other speakers, including the sub will pick up level and fill in the sound field. The reason this doesn't happen with the front/rear Toyota fader adjustment is that the factory sub seems to be run off the front circuit, so you cant turn the fronts down in the factory setup without turning the sub down.

I had already added a small secondary external sub to help the stock situation and it did for the sounds in the bass region. This tweeter/mid modification however improves the sound throughout the whole spectrum. Its quite an amazing amount of bang for the buck.
What type of external sub did you install and where did you put it? Thanks.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
talk to Crutchfield, they recommend this Kicker 43CSC354
3-1/2" 2-way car speakers
Those speakers are rated at 88db. The Sound Ordinance are 84db. The idea is to get the front speakers as quiet as possible so they balance with the door and sub speakers. Using 4db louder speakers might be OK, or they might defeat the purpose.
 
What type of external sub did you install and where did you put it? Thanks.
The sub is an 8" Kicker CompR mounted in a generic weighted box of .75 ft3. (18x12x6) The amp driving it is located under the passenger seat. The speaker box is in the hatchback area as pictured. I have a quick disconnect so that it can be quickly removed if needed for cargo reasons.

The factory sub is still in place and operating also. The factory sub is better since the the front speaker replacement but the kicker really adds a great deal beyond it. The factory sub is such a thin, light weight piece in an extremely thin cabinet that there is no way that any quality sub could fit in the factory sub enclosure. Once you open it up and see it, you can only laugh. The only path to significantly improved bottom end is with a separate enclosure. Did I mention that my dog always has a smile on her face when she rides back there with the sub :)
 

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Jtran, When you order from Crutchfield they include RAV4 installation instructions by email. If you use Scotch Locks you can tap into the factory speaker wires without cutting the factory connectors. This allows re-installation of the factory speakers should you ever want to.
Actually, you may have to ask for the installation info specifically if you want it, because they did not include it with my order, even though they knew what vehicle I was working with.
 
I took me longer to find Scotch Locks locally, none of the stores carries it. I have to order on line a bag of 50 (free shipping) that I really don't need that much :-(

Cannot believe Home depot and Lowes do not have them in store.
 
Installed the same set up last night. Only real difference for these untrained ears is that I don't have to move the front/rear as far back as before to hear more sound around, and the fronts are definitely a little quieter for the same volume.
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
Installed the same set up last night. Only real difference for these untrained ears is that I don't have to move the front/rear as far back as before to hear more sound around, and the fronts are definitely a little quieter for the same volume.
This system won't give you surround sound. If you move the front/rear (fader) to the rear, all you do is cut off the bass which comes mainly from the front doors. Even the sub seems to work off the fronts. If you move the front/rear bar to the front seats headrest you will get full bass response with a little from the rear speakers. You should also be hearing much clearer highs.
 
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