I am starting to get a little squeek/chirp when I start my 2008 Rav4 V6 and want to start by replacing the serpentine belt and idler pulley. I have read several write-ups on this site and watched youtube. What is not crystal clear to me is whether the idler pulley and the tensioner pulley are the same. Any preference on which one to get at rockauto.com? Thanks!!
Idler Pulley vs Tensioner Pulley 2008 V6
1 reading
westy
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
I am starting to get a little squeek/chirp when I start my 2008 Rav4 V6 and want to start by replacing the serpentine belt and idler pulley. I have read several write-ups on this site and watched youtube. What is not crystal clear to me is whether the idler pulley and the tensioner pulley are the same. Any preference on which one to get at rockauto.com? Thanks!!
Hi, I have just finished working through this puzzle, sort of. The original idler on the tensioner is 16604-0P010. If you order this original Toyota part you will likely be shipped the standalone idler, 16604-0P011 as the 010 idler has been superseded. I can tell you that they are not the same and when I tried to put the standalone 011 idler on a tensioner I have, it rubs. One would have to place a significant spacer in behind the idler to make it work with the proper clearance. There is a TSB on a noisy idler but it doesn't really address the above problem(TSB0056-11). The bearings, which affect the attachment distance from the tensioner, are of different widths. It looks like one fix would be to just put in a new bearing in the old idler, but I do not have that capability. The local toyota parts department did not have any solution other than to say the 010 is superseded by 011 and they sell it with a cover/spacer 16649-31020. Perhaps someone has found a fix, maybe non oem parts. Photo shows 011 standalone idler on the left and 010 tensioner idler on the right.
Attachments
Joined
·
1,776 Posts
Solid first post Kenrr.
So what does the cover/spacer look like. Will is solve the issue if used?
I have included the cover for the tensioner idler on the right, for comparison. It does not look like they are interchangeable. The pic of the tensioner shows that placing the spacer/cover inside, does not solve the clearance problem. The arrow shows the binding point of the 011 idler on the tensioner. I would estimate it would take 3-4 spacers to establish the correct clearance. I am sure the toyota mechanics must have a fix for this.
One other thing, the cover plate of the the 010 original idler cover plate, must be installed with the concave surface towards you. It is not identical on both sides like the 011 idler cover plate. If you place the concave surface away from you toward the tensioner, the tensioner pulley(010) will bind and I doubt your new idler will last very long.
One other thing, the cover plate of the the 010 original idler cover plate, must be installed with the concave surface towards you. It is not identical on both sides like the 011 idler cover plate. If you place the concave surface away from you toward the tensioner, the tensioner pulley(010) will bind and I doubt your new idler will last very long.
Attachments
Kenrr-Sounds like you have a pretty good handle on this. The mechanic I use for big jobs says replacing the alternator and tensioner is a big job that requires a lot of labor and cost $1600. I was considering replacing the belt and idler pulley to see if I could get away with saving a few bucks. Is the Idler pulley that I can get from Rockauto.com for about $35, the pulley that attaches to the tensioner arm, or is it the pulley up and to the right of the tensioner? Thanks Kenrr or anybody else with knowledge of this.
Hi Westy, I am not a pro, but I can try to help you. I checked Rock auto for your vehicle specs but do not see anything for $35. Can you get the manufacturer(eg Gate, Delco etc) and perhaps a part number? There are a number of options there with prices ranging from 18.79 to 47.21. I compare it to what I have found out.
I too am working through this for 2007 V6. I see that the problem described above (binding, need of spacers) is because, as Kenrr points out, the No. 2 Idler Pulley (16604-0P011) is not the same as the pulley attached to the drive belt tensioner (aka tensioner, serpentine tensioner, tensioner assembly and 16620-31040).
I think the solution is to get the correct pulley and part number rather than trying spacers. Specifically, note that the drive belt tensioner (and its pulley) is essentially at the center of the Rav4 V6 pattern of pulleys driven by the crank shaft and serpentine belt. The drive belt tensioner is spring loaded and is what applies the tension to the entire serpentine belt. It is completely different than a No. 2 Idler pulley.
Also note that the T-SB-0056-09 does not have a Rav4 V6 specific diagram because it applies to Highlander, Camry, Sienna, and Avalon. The TSB clarifies that there are two No. 2 Idler pulleys on these models, but only one on the Rav4 and Highlander (because the electric power steering in those two models is not driven by the belt).
The tensioner and its pulley is not the subject of the TSB and it isn't even drawn in the diagram of the TSB. Based on being under the Rav4 itself, I think the absence of the tensioner from the diagram might be throwing people off. If you trace the dotted lines on the diagram, it is clear that the one No. 2 Idler pulley is at 12 o'clock while looking into face of belt pattern of the Rav4 V6 subject to the TSB, which is above the tensioner's pulley at center of pattern (although not shown). The other No. 2 Idler pulley in the TSB diagram (shown to be left of the water pump) is the pulley that is not on the Rav4 V6 (I can't speak for the I4).
I guess it is possible one's drive belt tensioner pulley could be squeaking. If the easier replacement of the No. 2 Idler pulley doesn't fix the chirp that I have, then I will turn to finding the part number of the pulley attached to the drive belt tensioner. If that doesn't fix the chirp, I hope it is not coming from the drive belt tensioner assembly itself (approx. $185) because it appears to be buried/attached to a/c compressor, and not a simple task.
I think the solution is to get the correct pulley and part number rather than trying spacers. Specifically, note that the drive belt tensioner (and its pulley) is essentially at the center of the Rav4 V6 pattern of pulleys driven by the crank shaft and serpentine belt. The drive belt tensioner is spring loaded and is what applies the tension to the entire serpentine belt. It is completely different than a No. 2 Idler pulley.
Also note that the T-SB-0056-09 does not have a Rav4 V6 specific diagram because it applies to Highlander, Camry, Sienna, and Avalon. The TSB clarifies that there are two No. 2 Idler pulleys on these models, but only one on the Rav4 and Highlander (because the electric power steering in those two models is not driven by the belt).
The tensioner and its pulley is not the subject of the TSB and it isn't even drawn in the diagram of the TSB. Based on being under the Rav4 itself, I think the absence of the tensioner from the diagram might be throwing people off. If you trace the dotted lines on the diagram, it is clear that the one No. 2 Idler pulley is at 12 o'clock while looking into face of belt pattern of the Rav4 V6 subject to the TSB, which is above the tensioner's pulley at center of pattern (although not shown). The other No. 2 Idler pulley in the TSB diagram (shown to be left of the water pump) is the pulley that is not on the Rav4 V6 (I can't speak for the I4).
I guess it is possible one's drive belt tensioner pulley could be squeaking. If the easier replacement of the No. 2 Idler pulley doesn't fix the chirp that I have, then I will turn to finding the part number of the pulley attached to the drive belt tensioner. If that doesn't fix the chirp, I hope it is not coming from the drive belt tensioner assembly itself (approx. $185) because it appears to be buried/attached to a/c compressor, and not a simple task.
Before replacing any pulleys, have you taken the belt off and inspected everything? That would be my first suggestion. Test each pulley by hand and see if they wobble or make any sound.
I'm in a similar predicament with my friend's V6 RAV4 which has a serpentine squeak. After inspecting the pulleys I found the water pump pulley wobbled. We replaced that, the idler pulley and the belt all at the same time, but the squeak remained. Now after re-inspection we are convinced it is coming from the harmonic balancer/crankshaft pulley which can't be checked by hand.
The idler pulley can be found at local auto parts stores we found. I could not find any source for a tensioner pulley without the tensioner itself which costs over $100 normally. As others mentioned, they are different.
I'm in a similar predicament with my friend's V6 RAV4 which has a serpentine squeak. After inspecting the pulleys I found the water pump pulley wobbled. We replaced that, the idler pulley and the belt all at the same time, but the squeak remained. Now after re-inspection we are convinced it is coming from the harmonic balancer/crankshaft pulley which can't be checked by hand.
The idler pulley can be found at local auto parts stores we found. I could not find any source for a tensioner pulley without the tensioner itself which costs over $100 normally. As others mentioned, they are different.
JKrew: If question is directed at me, yes. I checked the belt and loose pulleys. The belt had some wear, and I didn't notice any noise or play in the pulleys. I wanted to see the belt for myself after rejecting a shop's $1085 estimate to solve the squeak by addressing the TSB for No. 2 idler pulley ($485) and drive belt tensioner and its pulley ($600). I balked because why not propose the $485 first and see if squeak is solved? Regardless, $485 is too high for that. So, I decided to do that first step myself. I was hopeful that I wouldn't even have to do that when the squeaking went away after spraying water on the belt. Unfortunately, I found that the "spray water rule of thumb" isn't 100 percent accurate, because, even though the squeak went away after applying water, after I replaced the belt, I still had a squeak. Second unfortunate fate was the squeak remained, although intermittent, after I replaced the No. 2 idler pulley myself following the TSB steps. I am not going to even try the drive belt tensioner and pulley (part no. in my post above) because it is sandwiched between the a/c compressor and crank case (it is not attached with 3 bolts to the outside like other Toyotas). In addition, Toyota does not sell or have a part number for the pulley attached to the drive belt tensioner. I've seen Toyota diagrams online that note that pulley is not serviceable. There may be aftermarket ones, but after reading the warnings included with the Litens $133 automatic serpentine belt tensioner #999225A that I bought (e.g., wound under tension; do not take apart), I am not going to mess with that pulley.
Instead, I have turned my focus to the a/c compressor. It is now squeaking. I was too focused on double-checking the shop's diagnosis of the TSB cure and doing the TSB myself that I can't remember if I had the a/c turned on when I first discovered the squeak. It could've been the a/c the whole time for all I know.
Instead, I have turned my focus to the a/c compressor. It is now squeaking. I was too focused on double-checking the shop's diagnosis of the TSB cure and doing the TSB myself that I can't remember if I had the a/c turned on when I first discovered the squeak. It could've been the a/c the whole time for all I know.
Joined
·
2,441 Posts
Rockauto has the correct sized idler.
Gates has also this note:
"NOTE: Always check for interference before re-installing the washer. In some cases, the washer may not fit in the new pulley. If this is the case, it is not necessary to replace the washer. The pulley will “center up” automatically as the bolt is tightened. The bearing in the idler is already greased and sealed. Tighten the pulley bolt and reinstall the tensioner. No adjustment is required for belt tension."
The tensioner is best to replace as a whole. By the time you remove it, you have spent so much labor that is absolutely worth the extra cost a fresh spring there.
Gates has also this note:
"NOTE: Always check for interference before re-installing the washer. In some cases, the washer may not fit in the new pulley. If this is the case, it is not necessary to replace the washer. The pulley will “center up” automatically as the bolt is tightened. The bearing in the idler is already greased and sealed. Tighten the pulley bolt and reinstall the tensioner. No adjustment is required for belt tension."
The tensioner is best to replace as a whole. By the time you remove it, you have spent so much labor that is absolutely worth the extra cost a fresh spring there.
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
