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Does your meter have a min-max recording feature? If so, get a set of alligator clamp leads for the meter, and leave the meter clamped to the battery overnight.

Also, do you lock the car with the key fob?

Another test to try is, leave the car outside one night. Lock with the key fob and record voltages overnight. Do the exact same another night only leave the car in the garage.

This will prove or disprove that the car is running down the battery in the garage while trying to communicate with Toyota, remote connect, or something else while in the garage with no cell signal.




I had the same problem which I replied to on another thread, with my 2020 RAV4 hybrid limited. the battery went flat over two days in the garage. So, I read the responses, and I’m sure you have got your problem solved by now. A couple of things though. First, they don’t want you jump starting the battery from the battery location in the back. There is a specific place to hook up under the hood, with the positive terminal of the jumper cable going to the stud in the fuse box on the left side of the engine compartment. The ground point is in the middle of the engine. There is a location diagram in the handbook.

You have to be very careful jumping or just charging the 12 v battery. I did mine last night, after I realized that the battery was flat and that’s why it was telling me the system couldn’t recognize the key fob. To recharge the battery, you have to disconnect the negative wires from the battery. Just take the fitting off the terminal.

To openly the resr door manually, someone has already told you the manual reference. It’s a real pain in the ass to get at, plus it’s hard to figure out just what to lever on with the screwdriver to open it. It took me a while. The drawing in the book is about hopeless. It gets you close and that’s about it.

As far as what made the battery run down: There are at least 10 other folks on this site that have had the same issue, mostly with the gas models. I suspect it’s something not shutting off when the vehicle shuts down. I put a meter over the terminals to check the current draw when the car was shut off. i couldn’t get the little screen in front of the driver to shut off, with the rear door open, so couldn’t get a reading with that screen off, but with it on, it was drawing 1.2 amps. That’s a lot. So, if the System doesn’t shut completely down, you will have a problem. I don’t know for sure what caused my problem, but I do know I didn’t leave any of the doors open or the lights on inside or out. The car sat in the garage for two days. I went out to leave, and the system fired up. Then about the time I was putting it in reverse, the screen shut off, and I had a message that the parking brake was not initialized, and that the key fob couldn’t be identified. I tried another key fob, same messages. When I closed the door, I got 8 beeps out of the security system. I had to attend a meeting so took my other vehicle. When I got home, I noticed that now, the entire vehicle was dark and not lights would come on. I manually opened the rear door and checked the battery. Yep, 5 volts.

I recharged the battery using the toyota procedure in the book, and then reinitialised the hybrid system per the book also, and all was well. There were a couple of systems that took a minute or more to come online, the park assist, and one other, but they all came back and the vehicle is running ok. I checked the battery voltage after three hours and it had not dropped. I wanted to check the current draw with the entire car off, but as I mentioned above, I couldn’t get the system to power all the way down with the back door open. Maybe I didn’t wait long enough??? I thought after 20 mins the vehicle would power off any systems still running. Anyway, I hope this helps. I think Toyota has a gremlin in the system that is not shutting something off. Could be that mini dsplay in front of the driver. I will keep an eye on it.
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
I had the same problem which I replied to on another thread, with my 2020 RAV4 hybrid limited. the battery went flat over two days in the garage. So, I read the responses, and I’m sure you have got your problem solved by now. A couple of things though. First, they don’t want you jump starting the battery from the battery location in the back. There is a specific place to hook up under the hood, with the positive terminal of the jumper cable going to the stud in the fuse box on the left side of the engine compartment. The ground point is in the middle of the engine. There is a location diagram in the handbook.

You have to be very careful jumping or just charging the 12 v battery. I did mine last night, after I realized that the battery was flat and that’s why it was telling me the system couldn’t recognize the key fob. To recharge the battery, you have to disconnect the negative wires from the battery. Just take the fitting off the terminal.

To openly the resr door manually, someone has already told you the manual reference. It’s a real pain in the ass to get at, plus it’s hard to figure out just what to lever on with the screwdriver to open it. It took me a while. The drawing in the book is about hopeless. It gets you close and that’s about it.

As far as what made the battery run down: There are at least 10 other folks on this site that have had the same issue, mostly with the gas models. I suspect it’s something not shutting off when the vehicle shuts down. I put a meter over the terminals to check the current draw when the car was shut off. i couldn’t get the little screen in front of the driver to shut off, with the rear door open, so couldn’t get a reading with that screen off, but with it on, it was drawing 1.2 amps. That’s a lot. So, if the System doesn’t shut completely down, you will have a problem. I don’t know for sure what caused my problem, but I do know I didn’t leave any of the doors open or the lights on inside or out. The car sat in the garage for two days. I went out to leave, and the system fired up. Then about the time I was putting it in reverse, the screen shut off, and I had a message that the parking brake was not initialized, and that the key fob couldn’t be identified. I tried another key fob, same messages. When I closed the door, I got 8 beeps out of the security system. I had to attend a meeting so took my other vehicle. When I got home, I noticed that now, the entire vehicle was dark and not lights would come on. I manually opened the rear door and checked the battery. Yep, 5 volts.

I recharged the battery using the toyota procedure in the book, and then reinitialised the hybrid system per the book also, and all was well. There were a couple of systems that took a minute or more to come online, the park assist, and one other, but they all came back and the vehicle is running ok. I checked the battery voltage after three hours and it had not dropped. I wanted to check the current draw with the entire car off, but as I mentioned above, I couldn’t get the system to power all the way down with the back door open. Maybe I didn’t wait long enough??? I thought after 20 mins the vehicle would power off any systems still running. Anyway, I hope this helps. I think Toyota has a gremlin in the system that is not shutting something off. Could be that mini dsplay in front of the driver. I will keep an eye on it.

THANK YOU!!
 
I had the same problem which I replied to on another thread, with my 2020 RAV4 hybrid limited. the battery went flat over two days in the garage. So, I read the responses, and I’m sure you have got your problem solved by now. A couple of things though. First, they don’t want you jump starting the battery from the battery location in the back. There is a specific place to hook up under the hood, with the positive terminal of the jumper cable going to the stud in the fuse box on the left side of the engine compartment. The ground point is in the middle of the engine. There is a location diagram in the handbook.

You have to be very careful jumping or just charging the 12 v battery. I did mine last night, after I realized that the battery was flat and that’s why it was telling me the system couldn’t recognize the key fob. To recharge the battery, you have to disconnect the negative wires from the battery. Just take the fitting off the terminal.

To openly the resr door manually, someone has already told you the manual reference. It’s a real pain in the ass to get at, plus it’s hard to figure out just what to lever on with the screwdriver to open it. It took me a while. The drawing in the book is about hopeless. It gets you close and that’s about it.

As far as what made the battery run down: There are at least 10 other folks on this site that have had the same issue, mostly with the gas models. I suspect it’s something not shutting off when the vehicle shuts down. I put a meter over the terminals to check the current draw when the car was shut off. i couldn’t get the little screen in front of the driver to shut off, with the rear door open, so couldn’t get a reading with that screen off, but with it on, it was drawing 1.2 amps. That’s a lot. So, if the System doesn’t shut completely down, you will have a problem. I don’t know for sure what caused my problem, but I do know I didn’t leave any of the doors open or the lights on inside or out. The car sat in the garage for two days. I went out to leave, and the system fired up. Then about the time I was putting it in reverse, the screen shut off, and I had a message that the parking brake was not initialized, and that the key fob couldn’t be identified. I tried another key fob, same messages. When I closed the door, I got 8 beeps out of the security system. I had to attend a meeting so took my other vehicle. When I got home, I noticed that now, the entire vehicle was dark and not lights would come on. I manually opened the rear door and checked the battery. Yep, 5 volts.

I recharged the battery using the toyota procedure in the book, and then reinitialised the hybrid system per the book also, and all was well. There were a couple of systems that took a minute or more to come online, the park assist, and one other, but they all came back and the vehicle is running ok. I checked the battery voltage after three hours and it had not dropped. I wanted to check the current draw with the entire car off, but as I mentioned above, I couldn’t get the system to power all the way down with the back door open. Maybe I didn’t wait long enough??? I thought after 20 mins the vehicle would power off any systems still running. Anyway, I hope this helps. I think Toyota has a gremlin in the system that is not shutting something off. Could be that mini dsplay in front of the driver. I will keep an eye on it.
What is the reason why they don’t want you to jump start the battery from the back? I ask because I was looking to get one of those chargers that you can use to jump start a battery with. The only problem is the cables are short so they wouldn’t reach across the engine from the positive terminal at the fuse box to that metal point on the other end of the engine (as they show in the manual). I know some said he connected his negative clamp to a nut nearby but is that safe also? I figured (as long as you can open the hatch to access the rear battery), the short cables from the charger would reach those terminals without a problem. I’m looking at this Gooloo charger.

GOOLOO 1200A Peak 18000mAh SuperSafe Car Jump Starter with USB Quick Charge (Up to 7.0L Gas or 5.5L Diesel Engine), 12V Portable Power Pack Auto Battery Booster Phone Charger Built-in LED Light,Gray https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08CXMS...08CXMS19H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_XQ61FXYM9HEPRV4T8718?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
 
I have a weego jump start pack. It has short leads but works just fine from the front jump start position. I just hook the ground clamp to the metal engine wherever I can. I seem to remember though that I can reach the designated point.

the reason your battery is going flat is because of a software issue with the communication device that reports your vehicle stats to Toyota. Sometimes it doesn’t shut off. There is a dealer upgrade for it.

fir whatever reason, Toyota doesn’t want you jumping it from the battery. In this modern and complicated vehicle, don’t fool around and do something different. You could really screw something up.
 
I have a weego jump start pack. It has short leads but works just fine from the front jump start position. I just hook the ground clamp to the metal engine wherever I can. I seem to remember though that I can reach the designated point.

the reason your battery is going flat is because of a software issue with the communication device that reports your vehicle stats to Toyota. Sometimes it doesn’t shut off. There is a dealer upgrade for it.

fir whatever reason, Toyota doesn’t want you jumping it from the battery. In this modern and complicated vehicle, don’t fool around and do something different. You could really screw something up.
Thx! My battery is fine and I got the update already. I was just wanted the jumper for a just-in-case scenario. I was just wondering if they didn’t show how to jump the battery directly in the back since the hatch won’t open (from the outside) when the battery is dead and the hood would be easier to access. Thx!
 
H
Thx! My battery is fine and I got the update already. I was just wanted the jumper for a just-in-case scenario. I was just wondering if they didn’t show how to jump the battery directly in the back since the hatch won’t open (from the outside) when the battery is dead and the hood would be easier to access. Thx!
Hi, one reason for the battery drain is the smart key communicating with the car when parked.If the car is within range, in the garage or on the nearby drive, the key is communicating with the car system. Did you know you can turn-off the key? This has additional security benefits, key cloning for instance. To turn your key off; hold down the 'lock' button and simutaneously press the 'open' button. The LED will flash four times. The key is now dead, and keyless entry is not working. To turn the key back on press any button.
Regarding opoening the tailgate or starting the hybrid system, all you need is 12V applied under the hood to the contacts mentioned before. A jump start is not required as long as there is power in the hybrid battery.
Note: there is no alternator on the engine. All 12V charging is done electronically from the hybrid system when in the 'ready' condion. You should either trickle-charge the 12V in the trunk on a regular (7-10 days) or run the system in the 'ready' state for 30-mins every week or so if the car is left standing.
Tony, Winchester, UK
 
H

Hi, one reason for the battery drain is the smart key communicating with the car when parked.If the car is within range, in the garage or on the nearby drive, the key is communicating with the car system. Did you know you can turn-off the key? This has additional security benefits, key cloning for instance. To turn your key off; hold down the 'lock' button and simutaneously press the 'open' button. The LED will flash four times. The key is now dead, and keyless entry is not working. To turn the key back on press any button.
Regarding opoening the tailgate or starting the hybrid system, all you need is 12V applied under the hood to the contacts mentioned before. A jump start is not required as long as there is power in the hybrid battery.
Note: there is no alternator on the engine. All 12V charging is done electronically from the hybrid system when in the 'ready' condion. You should either trickle-charge the 12V in the trunk on a regular (7-10 days) or run the system in the 'ready' state for 30-mins every week or so if the car is left standing.
Tony, Winchester, UK
I'm not sure if the key communicating with the car is an issue: I keep the keys for my 2020 Rav4 hybrid in a Faraday box and the battery on my car still dies if I don't drive the car for more than 3 days:
 
I'm not sure if the key communicating with the car is an issue: I keep the keys for my 2020 Rav4 hybrid in a Faraday box and the battery on my car still dies if I don't drive the car for more than 3 days:
Oh! 3-days... I've just changed my 12V battery brcause the temperature went well below zero and would start the car. Otherwise it was doing 10-14 days between top-up charge. It's a 6-year old battery. I would suggest there's a cell faulty in the battery. The only car related issue I've ever had was once I left the car in 'on' mode (hybrid off but auxillary on) and flattened it overnight. The dash display can look like everything is off when it is not.
 
Can you explain what or where the underwood jump location is?
Actually, Toyota made this really simple. In the engine compartment, on the driver side, you will find a fuse panel. Once you open it up, you will find a plastic rectangular red terminal(the largest one) that you can flip up. That is your positive lead for your jumper cape. The negative jumper should be hooked onto any engine bolt that is bolted to the frame. I hope that helps.
 
Grrr, in a similar situation. 12V battery went too low to start the car, but there was enough juice to open the doors from the key fob. Opended the rear liftgate. Measured the battery at 8.6V. NFG. Ordered and got a 12V H5 AGM delivered. This is about a week later now. Went out to the car. The doors are unlocked, as expected, because I left the car unlocked and didn't try to lock them. But the hatch is locked. No idea why, it should have remained unlocked the same as the doors. Now the key fob is not working, the crappy H4 battery must have dropped more volts and there is not enough juice to work the door locks. Fine. Got out my jump pack, and of course, that has like 8" or so leads on it. The negative connection point is, what, 3 feet from the fuse box? Yeah, that's not gonna work. Found my old school jumper cables and used those to extend over to the fuse box location. Got that connected and powered up, and the key fob does not work for the door locks, and can't start the car. Don't know why. Last step is to get out my Schumacher trickle charger and see if I can charge up enough to bring the car alive. This design is lame. Anyway, it's raining right now, going to wait for dry weather. Fortunately I have another vehicle to drive and the dead Rav4 is in my driveway. Otherwise, the air would be much bluer.
 
But the hatch is locked. No idea why, it should have remained unlocked the same as the doors.
The hatch is latched, not locked. Yes, the latch is actuated by electricity, so you cannot unlatch it when the battery is dead.
 
Read page 137 of the manual. You will need to crawl to the back with a screw driver to unlock the rear door.
No CRAWLING needed... simply attach your jump pack (or jumper cables) to the under hood jump points. Whether you start your RAV's engine or not, there will be power to open the liftgate. Crawling through should be the very last resort. Working smarter not harder. Good luck.
 
This ain't that funny. I work for a fortune 500 company. When my computer crashes and I call the 1-800 helpline, they tell me to go online and fill out a work ticket.
Yes, go online from a co-worker's computer or your backup laptop or phone to fill out a work ticket. Not, obviously from your crashed computer. Good luck.
 
And if your jumper cables are in with the spare tire then you need to open the hatch anyway.
Perhaps, it's time for a new plan and/or place to store your jumper cables? A jump pack takes up very little space and fits nicely under a seat or elsewhere in the cabin. Planning ahead will save from having to crawl through. Good luck.
 
Update - my dbpower jump starter wouldn't energize the car, no dash display, keyfob doing nothing. Well, it is a starter, I guess there are some smarts in there controlling its output. Hooked up my 120v Schumacher car battery charger in slow charge setting, bam, dash is on and the keyfob worked, the liftgate unlocked. Now it's easy to swap out the dead OEM H4 for a H5 AGM. Done. Very inconvenient. Wouldn't care if the 12V battery was under the hood. But it's not.
 
Update - my dbpower jump starter wouldn't energize the car, no dash display, keyfob doing nothing. Well, it is a starter, I guess there are some smarts in there controlling its output.
Most jump packs require a minimum voltage on the existing battery before they will connect. It is a safety feature so you don't connect the cables backwards. If your 12 volt battery is completely dead, a jump pack is worthless.
 
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