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4th Gen RAV4 Coolant Drain and Fill

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1000MPH

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
Changed the coolant on my 2015 RAV4 today and took a couple pics.
This is a simple drain and fill of the radiator, if you want to get all crazy and drain the engine block then the volume of fluid will probably be more.
The design of the cooling system on this generation makes it one of the easiest to perform the maintenance service.
No need for ramps or jacking up the RAV for access.
The reservoir sits high up in the engine bay so burping the system is basically automatic.
This generation of RAV4 does not have a radiator cap on the actual radiator, it is on the reservoir, so no need to remove the top radiator cover. You do however need to remove the lower cover.


Tools and supplies I used:
2 gallons Toyota Super Long Life Coolant (premixed)
10mm socket, ratchet, extensions
small flat blade screwdriver (for plastic clips)
Pliers (for reservoir hose clamps)
Clear vinyl tubing 5/16”ID
2 empty gallon size plastic containers.
drain pan for drips
anti-seize for bolts
shop towels
gloves
 
Discussion starter · #2 ·
Toyota Super Long Life Coolant (00272SLLC2)
This is the only coolant I would recommend. Some dealers charge an arm and a leg for it and finding a dealer to ship it is rare.
List price is currently $20.24/gal. My local Toyota dealer wants $24/gal and my local Lexus dealer wanted $39.00/gal.
This is what I recommend...
Go to the Toyota parts website Toyota Parts Center Online | Genuine Parts & Accessories
Search Toyota SLL coolant - 00272SLLC2
Find a local dealer near you with a decent price, most won’t ship it.
I got it for $14.93/gal from a dealer 100 miles away in Sacramento (Maita Toyota). I placed an online order and picked it up during a road trip to Big Sur.

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Discussion starter · #3 · (Edited)
Start with a cool engine.
Remove the lower plastic cover.
There are five plastic clips, four 10mm bolts, two 10mm/Phillips head screws.
Pay attention to how this cover slides under the other covers and tabs.
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Discussion starter · #4 · (Edited)
Find the drain petcock on the left side (drivers side) of the radiator.
On the bottom is where you will connect the 5/16” ID tubing to the drain fitting. This petcock is plastic so be careful with your superman strength getting the tubing over the fitting. You can heat the end of the tubing over the stove or in hot water to make it easier.
Put the other end into your container. Have the second container ready.
Loosen the valve a few turns, enough to get the coolant to flow. Don’t take it all the way out.
You will get some drip no matter how much you open it.
Take the cap off of the reservoir.
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Discussion starter · #5 · (Edited)
If you want to clean the reservoir you can do it while the coolant is draining.

Use pliers to move the two hose clamps, twist the hoses carefully to break them loose and they should come off easily.
The reservoir is held on with two 10mm bolts.
The one closest to the firewall is mounted to a bracket that will easily turn if you don’t hold it.
After cleaning, make sure to get all of the water out. I blew it out with an air compressor.
Reinstall the res, and reconnect the hoses.

There is really no need for this if you’re performing the coolant service within the specified interval. The exception would be if you see contamination in the reservoir or in the coolant that is draining.

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Discussion starter · #6 · (Edited)
Once the coolant has finished draining, you will probably have about 1.25-1.5 gallons of the old stuff.
Tighten the drain petcock finger tight and remove the hose.
Add new coolant to the reservoir until it reaches the bottom of the neck. Any more and it will spill from the overflow. Coolant will slowly drain into the system so keep it topped up.
At this time, double check the drain petcock is finger tight and check for leaks. Check your hoses are seated and the clamps have been returned to their original position.
Now you can replace the lower cover. Use a small amount of anti-seize on the bolts.

Continue adding coolant as it fills the system. You don’t need a specific coolant funnel but if you have one it makes filling a bit easier. You can barely see mine in the pic below.
Once the level in the res has stopped going down, squeeze the upper coolant hose on the left side of the radiator a few times (on your right facing the engine).
Start the engine and warm it up until fully warmed. Turn the heater on fully and set the fan to 1. Toyota warns you to watch the coolant temp gauge to make sure it doesn’t go too high as a result of air pockets.
If the level isn’t going down and the upper hose isn’t getting warm, you‘ll probably need to take it for a quick spin. Put the radiator cap back on before doing this.

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Discussion starter · #7 ·
The level should go down a small amount after the engine is fully warmed enough to open the thermostat. Mine only went down the to “Full” line.
If you need to add more, make sure to wait until the system is cool enough to take off the cap.
Make a note of the date and mileage for your service records.
I recommend checking the level daily for a couple days and add coolant when cold. My Toyota’s usually settle just below the “Full” line, if you continually add coolant to reach the line you may just see it burp out of the overflow. YMMV.
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Discussion starter · #8 ·
Dispose of your used coolant responsibly. Remember it’s toxic to pets and people. I’ve read that some municipality’s allow you to actually pour it down the household drain.
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Discussion starter · #12 · (Edited)
Thanks. I like doing these so five years from now, when it’s time to do it again, I can remember what I did.
I did this maintenance early (only 56k) but our RAV4 has a hard life of tons of short trips and lives outside.
Officially the interval is...
”Toyota Maintenance Schedule for SLL coolant: “Initial replacement at 100,000 miles/120 months. Replace every 50,000 miles/60 months thereafter.”

edit: Also, a guy from Bobistheoilguy.com posted a coolant change and several flushes on his 2014 Jeep and it was not pretty.
 
#16 ·
1000MPH said:
The level should go down a small amount after the engine is fully warmed enough to open the thermostat. Mine only went down the to “Full” line.
If you need to add more, make sure to wait until the system is cool enough to take off the cap.
Make a note of the date and mileage for your service records.
I recommend checking the level daily for a couple days and add coolant when cold. My Toyota’s usually settle just below the “Full” line, if you continually add coolant to reach the line you may just see it burp out of the overflow. YMMV.
View attachment 161220
Click to expand...
Clean engine!
 
#18 ·
Thanks for the detailed write up. I just did a coolant flush on my 1998 RAV4 2WD A/T (Gen 1) with 62K miles. I added Toyota Long Live Coolant (concentrated/Red) and replaced the thermostat as well since there are no service records from previous owners. I was wondering if the new thermostat was working properly. I guess if I take it for a long test drive and it doesn't overheat, I'm good.
 
#19 ·
1000MPH said:
Once the coolant has finished draining, you will probably have about 1.25-1.5 gallons of the old stuff.
Tighten the drain petcock finger tight and remove the hose.
Add new coolant to the reservoir until it reaches the bottom of the neck. Any more and it will spill from the overflow. Coolant will slowly drain into the system so keep it topped up.
At this time, double check the drain petcock is finger tight and check for leaks. Check your hoses are seated and the clamps have been returned to their original position.
Now you can replace the lower cover. Use a small amount of anti-seize on the bolts.

Continue adding coolant as it fills the system. You don’t need a specific coolant funnel but if you have one it makes filling a bit easier. You can barely see mine in the pic below.
Once the level in the res has stopped going down, squeeze the upper coolant hose on the left side of the radiator a few times (on your right facing the engine).
Start the engine and warm it up until fully warmed. Turn the heater on fully and set the fan to 1. Toyota warns you to watch the coolant temp gauge to make sure it doesn’t go too high as a result of air pockets.
If the level isn’t going down and the upper hose isn’t getting warm, you‘ll probably need to take it for a quick spin. Put the radiator cap back on before doing this.

View attachment 161219
Click to expand...
danarello said:
Thanks for the detailed write up. I just did a coolant flush on my 1998 RAV4 2WD A/T (Gen 1) with 62K miles. I added Toyota Long Live Coolant (concentrated/Red) and replaced the thermostat as well since there are no service records from previous owners. I was wondering if the new thermostat was working properly. I guess if I take it for a long test drive and it doesn't overheat, I'm good.
Click to expand...
Babyred said:
Great write up, good to to know!
Click to expand...
Great article thanks very much! Dave B New Zealand:)
 
#20 ·
@1000MPH Just wanted to say thanks for the write up and pictures. I did this on my 2014 LE AWD RAV4 this past weekend. Want to emphasize to everyone to continue to check the coolant level for a few days after the drain & fill. I've had to add a little after each time I drove the vehicle as the system has settled and air pockets have been filled.
 
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