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Engine kill switch

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lockmeout

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Toyotas are now a huge target for theft in my area and now they are even somehow getting the 2019 and 2020. They are gaining entry to the cars and doing something via ODB port. Apparently the signel boositng from the FOB is not that common as they are damaging the car doors to get in. If they were booting the FOB signal they wouldn't need to break open the door. Are they still able to reprogram a keys I don't know???
Anyway, have any of you installed a kill switch to try and avoid vehicle thief on your new Rav4? I have no problem hiding a switch but just looking for opinions on what to try and switch off, fuel pump, ignition power, starter I just not sure these are the best approaches.
I have a 2020 Adventure if that matters.
 
#2 ·
When I worked with Mexican citizens at the border in CA they said that Mexican car thieves had devices which could disable a lot of vehicle alarms and anti-theft devices. Lots of vulnerable vehicles were stolen in CA and disappeared into Mexico. When parking in vulnerable areas I used to pull the main fuse as a deterrent, obviously a hassle. A kill switch could be good if it were secure and worked without issues.
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
FLTRU said:
I keep my insurance up to date.
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That is kind of obvious. It is also obvious you have never had a car stolen before either. The process here is you only get paid out after it has been gone 21 (might have been 23) days. My neighbor's was recovered day 20 and had over $8k in damages. He then got the car back after a total of 8 weeks. A couple of the doors and windows didn't close properly, as the car had been lifted with a forklift, you can see panel gaps are different sizes etc. He wanted it written off but he had to trade it in on a new one. Just over a year old and had to fork out almost another $10K as it value was compromised.
Honestly it it the same reason you got mud guards, door Sill Protectors, and body side moldings, to protect your car. It is quite simple to disable a vehicle I was just looking for ideas from other that have done it.
 
#5 ·
lockmeout said:
That is kind of obvious. It is also obvious you have never had a car stolen before either. The process here is you only get paid out after it has been gone 21 (might have been 23) days. Mine neighbor's was recovered day 20 and had over $8k in damages. He then got the car back after a total of 8 weeks. A couple of the doors and windows didn't close properly, as the car had been lifted with a forklift, you can see panel gaps are different sizes etc. He wanted it written off but he had to trade it in on a new one. Just over a year old and had to fork out almost another $10K as it value was compromised.
Honestly it it the same reason you got mud guards, door Sill Protectors, and body side moldings, to protect your car. It is quite simple to disable a vehicle I was just looking for ideas from other that have done it.
Click to expand...

Good answer to a ridculous comment !

May want to repost in the General Forum or ask the mods to move there. General Forum seems to be more active.

If you have Entune Audio Plus it has alarm system. Personally, not familiar. Check the vid below on how to protect your key fob.


 
#6 ·
Okay, we'll try 4.5 General

My concern on a kill switch is connecting it somewhere where it doesn't cause error lights or codes.
 
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#7 ·
Dr. Dyno said:
Okay, we'll try 4.5 General

My concern on a kill switch is connecting it somewhere where it doesn't cause error lights or codes.
Click to expand...
Car Wireless Remote Control Battery Switch Disconnect Latching Relay Anti-Theft, E-Kylin DC 12V Electromagnetic Solenoid Valve Terminal Master Kill System

Something similar to the above could 'break' 12V battery circuit effectively the same as lifting the positive lead off the battery...this would wipe latched DTCs from memory and for those requiring state emissions inspections would make life difficult;)
 
#8 ·
A kill switch would be a good idea. You don't want to kill the 12V battery though, because you would lose all the programming - learned tune in the ECU, radio stations, etc. You will also likely end up with idiot lights once you turn it back on. Ideally you would kill power to something that you don't need until your ready to drive your car again - for example the activation relay to the starter, or maybe the fuel pump - for example.
 
#10 ·
Lowcountry Rav said:
A kill switch would be a good idea. You don't want to kill the 12V battery though, because you would loose all the programming - learned tune in the ECU, radio stations, etc. You will also likely end up with idiot lights once you turn it back on.
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Not sure if any of the multiple folks experiencing the infamous RAV4 parasitic current draw requiring frequent jumps have been reporting corresponding latched CEL following the jump but I may be wrong...have disconnected the 12V battery on my RAV4 several times with no latched DTC but I've never checked for lost saved radio stations...
 
#11 ·
pericles said:
Good answer to a ridculous comment !

May want to repost in the General Forum or ask the mods to move there. General Forum seems to be more active.

If you have Entune Audio Plus it has alarm system. Personally, not familiar. Check the vid below on how to protect your key fob.


Click to expand...
He has a follow up video (#345 below) where he describes the feature of turning off the FOB outlined in the owners manual. It's inconvenient but you don't need a pouch

#345 Stolen Truck. How To Deactivate Your RF Key FOB. Part 2. You HAVE to watch this! - YouTube
 
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#12 ·
#13 ·
Lowcountry Rav said:
Correct me if I am wrong, but turning the fob off stops it from being cloned. But can't they simply spoof it with the correct software?
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Probably...anything can now be hacked with enough effort...even an anti-theft wireless relay could be potentially defeated with an RF device
 
#14 ·
Lowcountry Rav said:
Correct me if I am wrong, but turning the fob off stops it from being cloned. But can't they simply spoof it with the correct software?
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Probably, but that would be like picking the lock on a door with an open window right next to the locked door.
 
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#15 ·
Lowcountry Rav said:
A kill switch would be a good idea. You don't want to kill the 12V battery though, because you would lose all the programming - learned tune in the ECU, radio stations, etc. You will also likely end up with idiot lights once you turn it back on. Ideally you would kill power to something that you don't need until your ready to drive your car again - for example the activation relay to the starter, or maybe the fuel pump - for example.
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I like the starter relay approach. Shouldn't set any codes. How about defeating the Park/Neutral switch? Should work with no harmful side effects.
 
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#17 ·
lockmeout said:
The park/neutral switch is a great idea. Also don't have to go under the hood to do it (other relays are there).
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Yeah, it seems all you'd need to do is find the wire and install a SPST switch in it. No messing with high current sources, heavy wires or taking the chance of blowing something out. And as you said it's all under the dash.
 
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Discussion starter · #18 ·
I wasn't ever going to mess with high current, I would use the other side of the relay, the trigger side. Also kill all the power to the car was never my intention, I still want my remote to open the doors etc.
 
#19 ·
Lowcountry Rav said:
Correct me if I am wrong, but turning the fob off stops it from being cloned. But can't they simply spoof it with the correct software?
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Car security is ridiculous low end as security goes. Even Teslas can be tricked, but at least those can be updated like a computer. The more "intelligent" a car is, the more chances are that some security backdoor was introduced.
Example: Recently it was posted that for 2011 and 2012 models, Toyota was so careless that they degraded the security chip 128 bit capability by using part of that crypto key the car serial number. The serial number is 6 digit long, that makes 6x8=48 bits that a brute force attacker can see trough the windshield.
 
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Dr. Dyno
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