Hey R4P owners - since there is no driveshaft connecting front and rear wheels, is it still required/recommended (as is on traditional AWD vehicles) to replace all four tires when any one (or two) tire needs replacing? Or, is the vehicle happy so long as it has similar tread depth "per axle"?
Replace all four tires?
jmartin325
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Hey R4P owners - since there is no driveshaft connecting front and rear wheels, is it still required/recommended (as is on traditional AWD vehicles) to replace all four tires when any one (or two) tire needs replacing? Or, is the vehicle happy so long as it has similar tread depth "per axle"?
I should clarify - certainly for changing to seasonal tires I would do all four. My question is more if one (or two) tires goes bad (i.e., sidewall slash), is it required/recommended to replace all four tires to keep proper symmetry to avoid drivetrain damage, or is tire symmetry only important per axle on this vehicle? In other words, since there is no driveshaft (nor transfer case) between front and rear wheels, could I replace tires on the same axle, keeping similar type and tread depth per axle instead of all four tires, as would typically be needed on a standard AWD vehicle? Thanks.
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Manual makes NO mention of changing all 4, or per axle. Just specifies to change tires when wear mark indicators appear (2/32in). I guess the newer drive trains are NOT as sensitive to tire tread differences caused by a new replacement tire. I am sure tire stores will say replace all four or at least the entire axle; they have a vested interest to sell more product.
It it were me, I would replace just the one tire, IF the other tire on the same axle had a lot of tread left (say >= 50%). Anything <50%, I would just replace and hang onto the tire incase of a future non-repairable tire issue occurs; I have a useable tire in reserve.
It it were me, I would replace just the one tire, IF the other tire on the same axle had a lot of tread left (say >= 50%). Anything <50%, I would just replace and hang onto the tire incase of a future non-repairable tire issue occurs; I have a useable tire in reserve.
Ya, I read the same in the manual and I suppose that’s the answer, it is NOT necessary to replace all four tires like traditional AWD vehicles. Anyone have any info/proof otherwise? I would think it would be prudent (like you mention) to keep similar tires (with similar wear) per axle to avoid any potential asymmetry per axle. Tires are much less expensive than drivetrain components.
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I don't think the matching tire thing really matters if you have all open differentials, or the equivalent. If you have a limited slip clutch type differential, or some sort of hydraulic coupling, it will be operating all the time, and they are generally not designed for that. I believe that the RAV4 has open differentials, and just uses the brakes to apply torque to the opposite wheel. On the other hand, Toyota also claims to be able to deliver torque to one or the other side of the car, even at speed. I don't know how they are doing that. Maybe, since AWD is usually inactive, to save gas, maybe the differential is simply not active much of the time.
NC '19 Rav4 Hybrid Limited, Entune 3.0, Adaptive Headlights, Advanced Technology Package
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In Europe I had to replace both on the same axle on a rental car. They have high expectations and high speeds.
I've heard the following: (assumes non-staggered tire sizes meaning all are the same size)
If the other tire on the axle is at 5k or less and the tread depth difference between it and a new tire is trivial, just replace the bad one. I did on my current RAV4 when I got a bolt through the belt. No issues.
If the tread depth is wildly different, replace two and move the best 2 of the used ones to the front. New tires to the back.
If you really value your safety, replace all 4.
If you really value your safety, replace all 4 at sometime after the 5 year mark if you are in a high temperature area and drive at higher speeds for long durationS. I have done this repeatedly.
I come from a sports car background, carry a tire depth gauge ($3 any car parts store), a tire pressure gauge and a temperature sensing infrared gun. I don't try to save on tires, they are my contact patch with the road.
On a rain drenched road, tread depth is your safety net. On a 2/32 tire, in stopping tests in the wet from 70MPH the new tire would have stopped the car where the worn tire would only have slowed the car to 55MPH!!!! 4/32 would only have slowed the car to 45!!!!
I've heard the following: (assumes non-staggered tire sizes meaning all are the same size)
If the other tire on the axle is at 5k or less and the tread depth difference between it and a new tire is trivial, just replace the bad one. I did on my current RAV4 when I got a bolt through the belt. No issues.
If the tread depth is wildly different, replace two and move the best 2 of the used ones to the front. New tires to the back.
If you really value your safety, replace all 4.
If you really value your safety, replace all 4 at sometime after the 5 year mark if you are in a high temperature area and drive at higher speeds for long durationS. I have done this repeatedly.
I come from a sports car background, carry a tire depth gauge ($3 any car parts store), a tire pressure gauge and a temperature sensing infrared gun. I don't try to save on tires, they are my contact patch with the road.
On a rain drenched road, tread depth is your safety net. On a 2/32 tire, in stopping tests in the wet from 70MPH the new tire would have stopped the car where the worn tire would only have slowed the car to 55MPH!!!! 4/32 would only have slowed the car to 45!!!!
Great points, thanks!
Except for the lack of a prohibition in the manual, most of these answers are missing the OP's point. The Prime's drive system has virtually nothing in common with "traditional AWD vehicles" where the front and rear axles are mechanically connected. So it would be totally unaffected by one tire having a different tread depth.
Even the 4.3 4WD and by extension 4.4 AWD (same system different nomenclature) models with a driveshaft can tolerate a 3% variation w/o any issues.
Mikefocke's point on safety is really the only important one.
Or measure your tread depth, call up tirerack and order a tire but ask them to shave it to that depth. Dirty little secret most tire shops don't want you to know about. Tire shaving is common practice for race car tires.
tires.tirerack.com
Shaving at Tire Rack
Shaving found in: Can Tires Be Shaved To Match Tread Depths On All-Wheel Drive & Four-Wheel Drive Vehicles? | Tire Rack, Do All 4 Tires Need To..
Good point with this potential option, could save some bucks. Anyone have experience with tire shaving? Any downsides?Or measure your tread depth, call up tirerack and order a tire but ask them to shave it to that depth. Dirty little secret most tire shops don't want you to know about. Tire shaving is common practice for race car tires.
Shaving at Tire Rack
Shaving found in: Can Tires Be Shaved To Match Tread Depths On All-Wheel Drive & Four-Wheel Drive Vehicles? | Tire Rack, Do All 4 Tires Need To..
No experience but I do wonder why someone would pay for a new tire and then pay again to have part of the tread removed unnecessarily. Maybe in racing where you make a million bucks by starting with two, but otherwise it's just a waste of money IMO.
I once owner a Subaru with the change-all-four viscous drive system. When I needed a couple of replacement tires I bought used ones on eBay where the sellers list the remaining tread depth. I closely matched the other two and it worked out just fine.
Then I bought our RAV4 and avoided the whole issue.
Agreed, not necessarily the greatest option, but an option nonetheless.
Tire shaving? Nooooo the RAV4 is not a performance car and you’re not using the tires at its maximum grip potential like on a track.... if the old tire still has 70% or more it’s close enough to not make a difference. At 50% or lower why would you shave a new tire? Buy two new ones.Or measure your tread depth, call up tirerack and order a tire but ask them to shave it to that depth. Dirty little secret most tire shops don't want you to know about. Tire shaving is common practice for race car tires.
Shaving at Tire Rack
Shaving found in: Can Tires Be Shaved To Match Tread Depths On All-Wheel Drive & Four-Wheel Drive Vehicles? | Tire Rack, Do All 4 Tires Need To..
The manual have these warnings about different tread depth cuz lawyers wrote them to cover their rear ends. They don’t want someone running a new tire 10/32 with another that’s at 2/32nd.
but if the old tire is still like 7/32 or newer it’ll be ok. Re-adjust the next time you need a new tire.
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I agree w/ PSI gauge, and tread depth gauge.
I am missing something.
I don’t understand the use of IR temp gun/gauge for every day driver/commuter?
I guess from a racing standpoint, you can see how much hotter a tire is compared to the others, and this would provide some meaningful data point For the race driver and pit crew/chief.
The IR temp gun/gauge will provide the user w/ a number and not a guestimate of the tires sidewall temp when touchi g w/ hand: warm, very warm, very very warm, hot, too hot burn my palm/fingers.
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