Anyone do a hitch install themselves for an adventure/TRD and have intel on a suitable torque wrench? I can’t really find a torque wrench near me that would even fit on the passenger side bolts.
Torque Wrench for Hitch Install?
rikercd
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You’d need a long (maybe 3”?) crows foot to fit in there. There were at least one or two bolts which we didn’t bother torquing, just used a regular wrench and pulled as hard as I could.
Edit: I did an SE, not an Adventure, but I’d be surprised if there was much difference there.
Edit: I did an SE, not an Adventure, but I’d be surprised if there was much difference there.
I didn’t use a torque wrench on the passenger side. After torquing the driver’s side, I felt like I had a good feel for the amount of leverage to use enough to get it very close to spec. I’m not too worried about it since I’m only using the hitch for a bike rack. If I was towing something, I might be a little more concerned. The main issue is to ensure that the lock washers are properly collapsed.
So I've been digging around and it seems like a crowfoot adapter is the way to go. I think the torque wrench alone would definitely fit and the crowfoot adds basically no width at all. I will try this tomorrow and see how it pans out.
Yeah I'm going to be towing 2000+ lbs, so I want to make sure everything is torqued down to spec.
My local auto parts store rents tools for cheap. I would make some phone calls. A crows foot should do the trick, but be aware that it will change the leverage of the torque wrench. 85ft.lbs. on the torque wrench will apply a torque slightly higher at the bolt. It’s like using a cheater bar on the bolt end of the wrench.
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141 Posts
And wear safety glasses.
a week ago I did a hitch install and some crud fell in my eyes and have been swollen for a week now.
I’m much better and recovering now.
I tightened the bolts with channellocks . You can always inspect the bolts after install
a week ago I did a hitch install and some crud fell in my eyes and have been swollen for a week now.
I’m much better and recovering now.
I tightened the bolts with channellocks . You can always inspect the bolts after install
I don't think it has to be that long, right? In any case I plan to pick some up tomorrow, either borrowed or owned, and see how they work.
If you're just towing a bike rack it might not be a big deal, but I plan to push this thing to the absolute limit so I want to ensure that I'm installed to the specs provided. I assume that the hitches are tested and verified at that spec.
A crowfoot on a 3/8 torque wrench fit for me (just barely). The crowfoots I used were <not 100% sure, the invoice says 7 mm but it’s a 7 pcs metric set> thick. If I’d I had a 1/2 drive torque wrench or crowfoots any thicker, don’t think it would have worked. I used a 19 mm long box wrench first to tighten it down.
This was the two right hand bolts on the hybrid LE model (Canadian spec model made in Windsor), mounting a CURT 4-bolt 2” hitch. YMMV.
This type of crowfoot (“flare nut”) worked well. Didn’t slip off easily.
![165432]( "165432")
This was the two right hand bolts on the hybrid LE model (Canadian spec model made in Windsor), mounting a CURT 4-bolt 2” hitch. YMMV.
This type of crowfoot (“flare nut”) worked well. Didn’t slip off easily.
If it helps, the clearance on that channel appears to be 1-3/4” at the widest, and narrowing further up. Just smaller than my old 1/2” beam torque wrench, which is 1-13/16 Without anything mounted to it. My hitch ships on Monday, so I guess I need to search for a narrower 3/8 drive wrench.
I should add, the 19mm box wrench was a huge pain in the a** as I could only do a quarter turn at a time. Once I got the bolt in enough to slip the flare nut crowfoot on and attach a regular 3/8 ratchet, I could get it “hand tight” and then use the torque wrench to check.
Even if you’re using this for Bikes (like I am) it’s still a good idea to make sure it is to spec. If it starts coming loose, the rocking motion of the weight on the hitch will wreck the threads that the hitch mounts to. If you’re using the hitch regularly or especially for a trailer, probably worth an annual check. You can also paint-pen mark the bolt head and the hitch to see if the bolt had moved.
Even if you’re using this for Bikes (like I am) it’s still a good idea to make sure it is to spec. If it starts coming loose, the rocking motion of the weight on the hitch will wreck the threads that the hitch mounts to. If you’re using the hitch regularly or especially for a trailer, probably worth an annual check. You can also paint-pen mark the bolt head and the hitch to see if the bolt had moved.
@conanford I'm curious what torque wrench you used. I'm not finding any 3/8" drive torque wrenches that are spec'd above 80 pound-feet (edit--any below about $200 that have reviews). It looks like the Curt instructions are for 86 lb-feet. I can't imagine I can make a 1/2 to 3/8 reducer work in that space. And it looks like every manufacturer of crowsfeet switches to 1/2" drive exactly at 20mm and above.
It it this one.. no longer on the original website but this forum below had picked it up— adjusts to 100 ft-lb spec. Not sure if that’s quite okay for standard 3/8 sockets and extensions but it did the job.
[Princess Auto] 3/8 in. Torque Wrench with case $19.99 - RedFlagDeals.com Forums
Princess Auto is roughly our equivalent of Harbor Freight, I believe.
So.... curious if you had any better luck getting a torque wrench to fit up on the outer passenger side bolts than we did....
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3,793 Posts
Informative video with proof
How to use an crowfoot or extension adapter on a torque wrench WITHOUT MATH - YouTube
and a tool to add length to a combination wrench:
Motion Pro Torque Wrench Adapter Review - YouTube
motion pro torque wrench adapter | eBay
How to use an crowfoot or extension adapter on a torque wrench WITHOUT MATH - YouTube
and a tool to add length to a combination wrench:
Motion Pro Torque Wrench Adapter Review - YouTube
motion pro torque wrench adapter | eBay
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