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RAV4WD2012

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2012 Toyota RAV4 4cyl 4WD
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136 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
Purchased the car in 2020 with 77,000 miles. It is a 2012 base model, 4cyl with 4wd.

Started off with a full detailing, and fixed any scuffs / paint chips that surfaced. Then applied ceramic wax.

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The paint on the steel wheels was worn down on several areas and they looked pretty bad, so decided to paint them black.

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The car sits a little nose-down from the factory, so I installed 1/4" front spacers from Northwoods Performance to raise the front a bit. Car sits fairly level now, and the spacers only took about 30min to install.

The next issue is the lack of underbody protection. The factory splashguard also hangs down very low and looks pretty bad from the front. There is a skidplate from Northwoods for over $300, but I decided to make my own for around $100. Its aluminum and protects the engine and transmission pans from light debris and barely affects ground clearance. I made a thread for its full construction. The Rav4 is obviously not a rock crawler, so didn't want go overboard with a heavy steel skid. On the 2012, the Evap components have a metal shield and the hoses have a plastic one, so I left those alone.

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Added all weather mats and trunk liner, interior and reverse LEDs, and window air deflectors. Tools / camping gear / recovery equipment are stored underneath the trunk. I also removed the mud flaps and tire air deflectors since they hang down too low for plastic flaps and make the wheels look even more tucked in to the fender. Looks better without them imo

Next, the tires had pretty terrible tread and I wanted to upsize a little. Ended up going with 245/65r17 Cooper Discoverer All-Terrains. This is a 29.5" tire, you cant go bigger than 30" stock. They were only $90 at Walmart. The tire cover wont fit but I like the look of the tire on the back door anyways and since I'll be rotating all 5 I don't need to worry about dry rot.

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They very slightly rub on the engine bay plastic shield when turned all the way to the right, but doesn't damage anything. (update, heated the plastic up and pushed it in a little and no rubbing now).

Next up was lighting. I started with a 30" single row curved light bar, which fit absolutely perfect in the slot under the grille. I was able to mount it by removing the front bumper and installing threaded inserts, into the beam that is in front of the radiator. Tt sits flush and matches the curve of the bumper. I also installed some ditch lights to help me see where I am turning when on trails / backroads. Had to make custom brackets which mount where the A-pillar meets the fender.

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Wiring took several hours. I made my own harnesses so that I didn't have excess wiring under the hood, used relays, add a circuit to the interior fuses for switch LED power, protected wires with conduit, and ran switch signal wire through firewall with a coat hanger using the same hole as the rest of the wires on the driver side. The ditch lights and light bar switches perfectly filled the two "blanks" to the left of the steering well on my base model.

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I added two 1/2" shackles to the front, attached to factory screw in tow hooks with rubber isolators. Would probably hook up to a front control arm or the tow hitch if I ever get stuck bad. Using a kinetic recovery rope and soft shackle helps also.

I dragged my bumper and cargo area a little on a trail, no permanent damage but needed some rear end "departure" protection and a recovery point, and wanted to tow a small trailer so installed a tow hitch. It drags more frequently now, but keeps my rear end protected, and could use it for recoveries without worrying about bending anything.

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Potential future mods: LED headlights (once one of the stock ones burn out). Maybe 1" wheel spacers. Lift Kit. Maybe some sort of rock sliders that attach to pinch welds, Gas Tank Armor, Limited-slip rear diff.

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One day I will buy a tacoma or 4runner, but in the meantime the Rav4 is a great reliable first car.
 
Looks good, really like what you've done with front hooks
 
Nice improvement! If I may ask a weird question, what is holding those center caps to the wheels? I've been searching for some for my winter steel wheels and this looks like it might be compatible.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Nice improvement! If I may ask a weird question, what is holding those center caps to the wheels? I've been searching for some for my winter steel wheels and this looks like it might be compatible.
they just clip in to the wheels 60.1mm center bore hole, so friction i guess. They are just the stock Toyota wheels and center caps painted black, could probably find them on Toyota’s parts website or eBay.
 
Discussion starter · #8 · (Edited)
How do those Coopers perform?
Do you have a link on the skid plate write up?
they have been great so far, no more than 1mpg loss and much better traction than my previous tires. I’m sure there’s better but for $90 each rated for 60k miles they are excellent.

skid plate link:

 
Discussion starter · #10 · (Edited)
Update, removed front leveling spacers and installed H&R Raising Springs. They lifted the front 1.4" and the rear 0.6." I think that the extra .3 inches in the front is because I have the I4 and not the v6 they are marketed for. It is a spring only lift so the CV axles will not go any lower than stock, just more up travel less down travel. Rear is a dual rate spring, so once compressed to ride height it is much firmer than stock which handles way better and can carry a load without sagging as much.

I had to get a set of camber adjustment bolts for the front struts, the stock bolts attaching the strut to the wheel hub assembly didn't have any adjustment lobe, so I swapped out the top ones. I also replaced the sway bar end links with Moog ones that are much easier to take off when needed for articulation.

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Pretty much where I want it now. I want to modify the trailer hitch for better departure angle, I like it for rear end protection but it is too low / far back. I might just shorten it by a couple inches since it only tows a small trailer. Also might get a roof basket but don't want the MPGs hit.
 
@iconman That hitch has a lot less material visible which is great but it still sticks just as low and far back, or close to it, as the one listed for the Rav so still has the same issues he is talking about. One that stuck out from the middle of the bumper would be boss but definitely be custom and require some trimming.
 
Discussion starter · #13 · (Edited)
Ended up just cutting off the last 3" of the hitch and re-drilling the pin hole. I also drilled a new pin hole a few inches back on my ball attachment that goes into the hitch for towing. It still protects the cargo area and rear bumper but improves departure angle. If you are towing large trailers with the V6 model might not be a great idea to modify the hitch, but 4cyl is maxed at 1500 anyways. This also could effect the ability to mount a bike rack on the hitch.

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I also measured ground clearance, the lowest point is the rear of my front skid plate (under the oil pan) which measures 9". Stock in that area was 7" (Toyota probably advertises more but that what I measured). So the 1.5" spring lift and bigger tires have given me 2" more clearance, and the lowest point is the skid plate.

Maybe next I'll add some square tubing to the pinch welds next so that the gas tank isn't the lowest part in the center? Would love any advice on protection from high-centering.
 
Abstinence is always the best policy :) Don't go off road no worries of high centering. :cool:

I only explore power lines and find trail heads but the hitch height, or lack there of, has caused me to dig in before. Lost my damn OEM Toyota hitch cover and had to buy a new one.

I just installed a Fumoto valve on my last oil change and no matter what I did it still sticks down below the pan enough for me to be nervous about smacking it off and losing all my oil in the middle of nowhere. I might go back to the stock plug or think about some armor.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
Abstinence is always the best policy :) Don't go off road no worries of high centering. :cool:

I only explore power lines and find trail heads but the hitch height, or lack there of, has caused me to dig in before. Lost my damn OEM Toyota hitch cover and had to buy a new one.

I just installed a Fumoto valve on my last oil change and no matter what I did it still sticks down below the pan enough for me to be nervous about smacking it off and losing all my oil in the middle of nowhere. I might go back to the stock plug or think about some armor.
Yeah I never plan on rock crawling or anything serious, that will happen once I get a truck or jeep. But for power line trails and national forest roads would be helpful to have something to slide on just in case.
 
@iconman That hitch has a lot less material visible which is great but it still sticks just as low and far back, or close to it, as the one listed for the Rav so still has the same issues he is talking about. One that stuck out from the middle of the bumper would be boss but definitely be custom and require some trimming.
A hitch that hids behind the rear bumper and sticks out through the bumper would be awesome. That is something I've also been wanting but can only happen if it is custom made or modified with an existing one. Might look better with a 2006-2008 rear bumper compared to the 2009-2012 one.
 
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