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mensajero

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
Paul Shpakov sold me his front 6x9 speakers. He made the front adapter. I'm doing a stereo installation, but very low-key for Jazz and Salsa. No window vibration watts monster. BTW, follow Paul Shpakov in his channel. He has some great stuff you WON'T find anywhere else regarding the RAV4.1.

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Discussion starter · #4 ·
Well, I have a Clarion EQ, and a Clarion MCD360, with one (used) Alpine AMP. Since I'm still dealing with the fuel injectors, I really haven't had the time to sit down and really plan what I want. But I like Jazz and Salsa music. I guess I would need a set of mid-range speakers. I was thinking of getting a set of Infinity Kappa Perfect 300m. I've always used Infinity speakers because I can't afford Focal. Furthermore, I have four Infinity Kappa speakers. Any suggestions, by all means, and BTW, I like to emphasize sound, not windows shattering power. :geek: Oh yes, I plan to install the mid-range on the rear door shooting forward.
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Discussion starter · #5 ·
Paul Shpakov sold me his front 6x9 speakers. He made the front adapter. I'm doing a stereo installation, but very low-key for Jazz and Salsa. No window vibration watts monster.

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Following up on this post, a few things come to mind. The parts made by Paul are, in reality, too heavy. BUT, not all is lost. I could use them as a mold, and make a fiberglass (FG) part from it. It would have to be a very strong FG part. Then, cover the inside of the FG with Noico 80 mil sound deadening mat. It will help to solidify the FG enclosure and help the sound, I hope it won't crack the FG enclosure. Then, cover it up with some paint or Carbon Fiber paper. I'll start working on it tomorrow.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
OK, where is this project going? Well, it's going forward. I already bought the fiberglass needed to make the enclosure. Mold? Paul Shpakov wood speakers. He was right, it's too heavy for the door. Swing it enough, and you might mess up the hinges. THAT is a very undesirable situation, a door that cannot close properly. The solution, make them in fiberglass using Paul's wooden frame as a mold.
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This is the idea, place a set of Rockford Fosgate P1692, 6 X 9 front speakers in the area intended for the 6.5 speakers. (Frequency Response 60-22,000 Hz). The infinity speaker that were in that hole are going to be hooked up as mid-range in the crossover outlet.
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But the speaker mount must be strong because these speakers are heavy. How, like this.
Then, the screws will have a piece of metal crossing the inner fiberglass to reinforce the screw with metal flat washers to be torque. The enclosure with new Fiberglass, but the skeleton will be aluminum. For the fiberglass enclosure, I will install Car Sound Deadening Mat Sound Deadener Insulation Material. This will help sound and give the piece rigidity. Stay tuned, mensa...out.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
PAul, (the Guru) told me that the speaker brackets were just too heavy. I put on my thinking cap and had a look around the net. Why not make the speaker brackets in fiberglass. Re-enforce the inside with car sound deadening mat sound deadener insulation material. Like this one.
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Now, making the fiberglass parts are quite simple. Just measure the mold and then cut in the paper the strips in Fiberglass, like this.

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You will need four FG brackets, and two strips of 30" of FG it does not end there. Remember the conditions these DIY parts will be used. Maybe some heat, (not much). Some vibration. So, the inside, or shall we call it the skeleton of the brakes will be in aluminum pipes. This weekend, (I hope) I'll put them together to see what we got. Stay tuned. Keep RAVIN. ;)
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
I guess this weekend I might continue. I've come to realize that fiberglass is just too messy and somewhat weak. The speakers are heavy with their big magnet. I was watching Paul Shpakov videos over and over. When he removed them, I saw that he had removed the speaker bracket from the 6.5 custom speaker sold by Crutchfield. He didn't have to cut the metal. Those heavy, but strong speaker molds he made, well, I just will have to go with those. I plan to cover them with carbon fiber paper. The grey color, well, it's just kind of not custom looking. I was thinking of using strong metal screws from inside the door, out towards the speaker grill. Hoping it will hold the speaker in place with the more constant opening and closing of the door. Thank you for asking, wish me luck.
 
Paul makes some great content but it's best to double check his advice. His video on soundproofing missed a few critical steps. He applied foil backed butyl rubber to the entire surface and did not use a layer of foam. The foil backed rubber is solely for vibration and is only needed on about 20% of the surface. Without a layer of foam the car is still uninsulated from noise and temperature.

For your setup, have you considered a compact powered under-seat subwoofer and door tweeters? Without the proper power from an amp 6x9s won't sound their best even at lower volumes.

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Discussion starter · #15 ·
Thank you for your advice. It shall be taken into consideration. In the meantime, why don't you drop Paul an email, better yet, I have his phone number if you (pending his permission) like you can call him and you can share your concerns, he's a great guy. Muchas gracias
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
Looking at what I have and sometimes things like this happen. Always think about the environment you put your RAV4 (or any vehicle for that matter) when installing parts. Installing 6X9 speakers on a front door on a RAV4.1 is great, especially for a Jazz Music lover like me. Look where you have to install the speakers. a very narrow, tight space. I looked at Paul Shpakov front door 6X9 speakers and to me, it was a cool move. So I purchase from Paul the wooden adapters. Not realizing that the weight of the adapters, and the place that I would have to place them, add to that the weight of a magnet would need, tuff, hard screws. In a place where I had to place them was not to be an easy installment. So I went on a 6X9 speaker adapter hunt and found one. From the Toyota 4Runner. I think I got what I need. Stay Tune.

 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
Paul makes some great content but it's best to double check his advice. His video on soundproofing missed a few critical steps. He applied foil backed butyl rubber to the entire surface and did not use a layer of foam. The foil backed rubber is solely for vibration and is only needed on about 20% of the surface. Without a layer of foam the car is still uninsulated from noise and temperature.

For your setup, have you considered a compact powered under-seat subwoofer and door tweeters? Without the proper power from an amp 6x9s won't sound their best even at lower volumes.

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Where did you get those triangles? The 6X9 are rated, I think at, about 75 RMP to 150 RMS.
 
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