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Discussion starter · #41 · (Edited)
Regarding the front tow eyelets (not the red shackles), have you used them? Do you have any idea what load they're rated for? The standard tow hooks/eyelets are NOT recovery rated as far as I know and everyone I hear from says not to use them if you're stuck. I understand the reason, but having two equalised together minimises the chance of failure. I'm interested in views from as many people possible, and you look like you've set them up for recovery. I'm considering a handwinch for the rare occasions I get stuck alone, or need to be towed out. It's not for serious off-roading obviosuly so I'm not going to be stuck in 4 foot deep mud! But to have an idea of the load rating of those towing points could be useful. Thanks.
Shackles are plenty strong, the eyelets could probably handle being lightly pulled out of mud / snow in a straight line, wouldn't handle fast pulls at an angle very well. I'd use them for a simple recovery.
 
Yeah, no worries about the shackles. It's the eyelets, the threads of them, and what that screw into that I'm concerned about. Being towed out of mud/sand is enough for me. No intention of using snatch straps etc. A grade 8.8 M16 bolt can typically hang about 9,000kg. That's heaps (not sure it's M16, not meaured it, just a guess).Just wondered if there was anything published about the actual design rating for them. I take it you've not had to use them for recovery? Long may that last! I'm hoping these at the front, and a decent class III tow bar at the back has me covered for most simple recoveries. Just cheap insurance with having the kids in the car and getting out of situations quickly in the unlikely event that they happen. Cheers.
 
brentkwhitley awesome build man!! I'm trying to mock up the ditch light bracket you did on your car an was wondering if you any photos of it so I can try to replicate it. I seen your other discussion on bending it but if you got a picture so I can see exactly how you bent it, that would be so awesome!!!
 
Discussion starter · #45 · (Edited)
Tried polyurethane coil spring spacers from eBay, they deformed when the car was sitting on its own weight and did not securely hold the coil spring, didn't even try driving on them.

To level the car, I dropped the rear subframe 0.4" using washers to form a spacer. Bought longer bolts for the front subframe mounts, the rear mounts (inside springs) have plenty of extra threads. Dropped the driveshaft center carrier 0.2" using washers to maintain alignment. Total cost for 18 grade 8 washers, 2 smaller washers for driveshaft center joint, two extended bolts, and locktite was $40. Had to disconnect a couple exhaust hangers ABS lines, and bottom brake caliper bolts and was able to lower the subframe enough without too much trouble. This subframe drop is a spacer lift, but this is OK because it drops all control arms, shock mounts, and differential, so everything including the CV axles will not drop any lower than stock angles. The brake lines and ABS wires have plenty of play at full drop. I left the bumpstops how they were so technically gained 1/2" of up travel, might extend them if I need to to prevent the shock from bottoming out.

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I love the look of red shackles on the front. What are your thoughts on installing a base plate (used for flat towing behind an rv) and using that for the front recovery points instead of the eyelets that screw into the crash bar? A base plate bolts directly to the chassis on both sides in the front, just like the tow hitch in the back but for the reverse purpose. Blue Ox makes one I think. I wonder if that would be a stronger/less likely to damage the unibody frame in the event of a recovery?
 
Discussion starter · #50 ·
Finally got to try some trails at Uwharrie National Forest. Obviously didn't go on the harder rock crawling trails, however the rav4 did great on the easy / moderate ones. I disconnected the front sway bar and aired down just to 25 psi (to avoid lowering ground clearance), turned off TC and VSC, engaged rear diff, and put transmission in first gear. Definitely had to be careful with the lack of underbody protection and approach / departure / break-over angles compared to a truck or SUV. I also definitely noticed the lack of front articulation caused by the short CV axles, but the rear did great even without the sway bar disconnected. In the second picture you can see the front lifted off the ground at full extension.

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Tried polyurethane coil spring spacers from eBay, they deformed when the car was sitting on its own weight and did not securely hold the coil spring, didn't even try driving on them.

To level the car, I dropped the rear subframe 0.4" using washers to form a spacer. Bought longer bolts for the front subframe mounts, the rear mounts (inside springs) have plenty of extra threads. Dropped the driveshaft center carrier 0.2" using washers to maintain alignment. Total cost for 18 grade 8 washers, 2 smaller washers for driveshaft center joint, two extended bolts, and locktite was $40. Had to disconnect a couple exhaust hangers ABS lines, and bottom brake caliper bolts and was able to lower the subframe enough without too much trouble. This subframe drop is a spacer lift, but this is OK because it drops all control arms, shock mounts, and differential, so everything including the CV axles will not drop any lower than stock angles. The brake lines and ABS wires have plenty of play at full drop. I left the bumpstops how they were so technically gained 1/2" of up travel, might extend them if I need to to prevent the shock from bottoming out.

View attachment 191635
What was the ID of the washers you used for the subframe drop and the driveshaft center carrier?
 
Discussion starter · #52 · (Edited)
What was the ID of the washers you used for the subframe drop and the driveshaft center carrier?
I don't know, I just took the bolts with me into the hardware store since I needed to get 2 longer ones anyways. Subframe mounting bolts washers are all the same diameter, driveshaft carrier bolt washers are smaller.
 
Hi mate
Love your build, I'm going for a similar approach on my 07 Cruiser L (Aus Spec)

I had a couple of questions about your raised coil springs
Did you use your stock front and rear shocks?
If so, how have the shocks held up with the lift?
Did you need different length swaybar mounts?
Apart from the camber bolts would I need any other things to make it happen?

I'm new to offroading and my suspension experience is limited to OEM replacements and 70s mopars

TIA, Cheers Josh
 
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