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uwmadison

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone,

It is my first time trying to tow a trailer behind my vehicle and I recently began studying how the whole process works.

Straight to the point, would RAV4 Prime XSE 2023 be capable enough to tow a Uhaul trailer? The weight of the trailer is 850lbs (4' x 8' Cargo Trailer), and I believe the combined weight of my stuff and the trailer would be around 1500lbs (at maximum). The distance I have to drive is 1700 miles, possibly divided into 4 or 5 days.

Upon googling, I see that the maximum towing capacity of RAV4 Prime is 2,500lbs. However, as it is my first time trying to tow something, I want to make sure I am making a right decision here. If yes, I plan to install a Curt Class 3 hitch this Thursday.

Also, I read a lot of posts saying that one should consider the weight of the trailer tongue - why is this so, and how can I determine this?

Thanks in advance for all your advice!
 

 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
When you call or go to your local U-Haul they will ask you all kinds of questions about your tow vehicle and determine if what you have is adequate or not. I needed an open trailer to get my air compressor home being everything I had was too short (ceiling) including my wifes horse trailer. They asked me all kinds of questions over the phone and I have a diesel truck. You want your heavy items between the wheels and the front of the trailer. I have never worried about tongue weight too much. You want enough tongue weight to keep everything balanced. When a semi is pulling multiple trailers the heaviest is always towards the front.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
When you call or go to your local U-Haul they will ask you all kinds of questions about your tow vehicle and determine if what you have is adequate or not. I needed an open trailer to get my air compressor home being everything I had was too short (ceiling) including my wifes horse trailer. They asked me all kinds of questions over the phone and I have a diesel truck. You want your heavy items between the wheels and the front of the trailer. I have never worried about tongue weight too much. You want enough tongue weight to keep everything balanced. When a semi is pulling multiple trailers the heaviest is always towards the front.
I have never thought about how to balance the items in the trailer. It is really helpful to know I should put the heavy stuff in front, not in the back! Thank you so much!
 
Just be super careful backing if you have to back. And always back to the drivers side if possible. Even ask for help if you need it. If someone asked me to help back a trailer for them I would be happy to do it. You can cause some serious damage if you jack knife the trailer.
 
Hi everyone,

It is my first time trying to tow a trailer behind my vehicle and I recently began studying how the whole process works.

Straight to the point, would RAV4 Prime XSE 2023 be capable enough to tow a Uhaul trailer? The weight of the trailer is 850lbs (4' x 8' Cargo Trailer), and I believe the combined weight of my stuff and the trailer would be around 1500lbs (at maximum). The distance I have to drive is 1700 miles, possibly divided into 4 or 5 days.

Upon googling, I see that the maximum towing capacity of RAV4 Prime is 2,500lbs. However, as it is my first time trying to tow something, I want to make sure I am making a right decision here. If yes, I plan to install a Curt Class 3 hitch this Thursday.

Also, I read a lot of posts saying that one should consider the weight of the trailer tongue - why is this so, and how can I determine this?

Thanks in advance for all your advice!
a longer draw bar is nice!
it will help get the trailer further back for a bit better handling.

watch how you load the trailer.
Toung weight is a real issue.
100-200 lbs max
try to keep the majority of the weight over the trailer axels.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Just be super careful backing if you have to back. And always back to the drivers side if possible. Even ask for help if you need it. If someone asked me to help back a trailer for them I would be happy to do it. You can cause some serious damage if you jack knife the trailer.
Thanks for your advice! I haven't known what "jack knifing the trailer" is. I will careful with backing up the vehicle and speeding!
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
a longer draw bar is nice!
it will help get the trailer further back for a bit better handling.

watch how you load the trailer.
Toung weight is a real issue.
100-200 lbs max
try to keep the majority of the weight over the trailer axels.
Thank you! I will keep the weight of the trailer most to the front :) I appreciate it!
 
Thank you! I will keep the weight of the trailer most to the front :) I appreciate it!
Generally, you want the tongue weight to be about 10% of the total trailer weight. Tongue weight is also weight that is applied to the towing vehicle. This reduces the total cargo weight (people and stuff) that the car can carry. You want to have a fairly even distribution of weight in the trailer, but biased a bit to the front to maintain the proper tongue weight.
 
Make sure you look over the trailer from top to bottom before a long journey like that. ( Frame rust / lights / wiring / latches ) etc etc
UHAUL are well known for not being road worthy yet still being rented daily.
There is a reason every piece of equipment they own is plated Arizona, and its not only because that's where their head office is...
 
Thanks for your advice! I haven't known what "jack knifing the trailer" is. I will careful with backing up the vehicle and speeding!
 
I would recommend you get the OEM or the Eco hitch rather than the Curt. The Curt rides too low and will drag over driveway entrances, such as pulling into gas stations. The OEM or Eco hitch is much higher.

One rule of thumb for stability is to keep the trailer tongue level, angled neither down or up. Best way to do that is to choose a ball mount for the hitch that either raises the ball height up, or lowers it down. For the RAV4, you will probably need to raise the ball. On my 4Runner (with a lift), I have to lower the ball when I pull my ATV trailer.

When going around corners, especially sharper corners, be sure to steer wide so the trailer doesn't cut the corner. At a corner it is best to go straighter longer than you would in a car, then turn sharper than you would in a car.

As others have said, avoid jack knife the trailer when backing up. (Jack knife is when the trailer is angled so far to the side that the rear bumper of the car will touch the side of the trailer). Best to choose places where you can pull through and not have to back up.
 
One other thing to consider is that the unbraked trailer weight limit is 1000 lbs. You need to have a functional trailer braking system for the max 2500 lb tow limit (see manual, page 273).
Most U-haul trailers have surge brakes (which are hydraulic trailer brakes controlled by forward pressure exerted on the hitch. One good thing to check on the trailer is the hydraulic reservoir to make sure there is brake fluid in there. The reservoir is generally located just behind the hitch.
 
Most U-haul trailers have surge brakes (which are hydraulic trailer brakes controlled by forward pressure exerted on the hitch. One good thing to check on the trailer is the hydraulic reservoir to make sure there is brake fluid in there. The reservoir is generally located just behind the hitch.
The 4x8 UHaul doesn't have surge brakes. If OP is loading it out to ~1500 all up (that's about 650lb of cargo), even without brakes he'll barely know it's even back there. That's about the gross weight of the light utility trailers sold at Northern Tool, Home Depot, Lowes etc., none of which are braked. Yes it's technically violating the manual, but it's a constraint that many, many folks have ignored. I wouldn't tow 2500 without brakes (even though it's legal in some states), but I wouldn't think twice about towing 1500 without brakes.

On the Curt, I think it's low height is overthought. It sits just barely below the exhaust tips (and I'd rather those be protected but I've never scraped just the hitch. It can be a problem if you have a long bike rack mounted, but even many of those are offset up. I have the Curt with a bike rack on it often, and I've scraped only twice in over 36k miles now, and both times it was my fault.
 
BTW, U Haul has official maximum towing speeds on their trailers that are well below many posted speed limits. I think most of ther trailers are listed for no more than 55 MPH.
 
BTW, U Haul has official maximum towing speeds on their trailers that are well below many posted speed limits. I think most of ther trailers are listed for no more than 55 MPH.
It isn't because the trailer can't go faster it is to minimize the chances of an accident. I personally wouldn't go any faster than 65 towing with a RAV4. Just pay attention to your trailer behind you and if you notice trailer sway, just slow down with out hitting the brakes until it goes away. That is all I did when I used to drive tractor trailer and would often pull 3 trailers at the same time. The rear trailer would often sway depending on how much weight was in it. The condition of the road can play a roll in trailer sway too. I would after every stop do a quick check to make sure everything is still hooked up properly and the trailer tires look to be in good shape with no missing lug nuts. Stupid stuff that years of driving commercially that is habit for me.

On another note I would ask about locks. You want something that somebody can't cut off easily while your in sleeping in your hotel. You want something that you can lock the tongue of the trailer to prevent someone from coming by and unhooking it from your vehicle and hooking it to theirs in the middle of the night. A light trailer is no problem to unhook and hand carry over to another vehicle and drive off with. If that makes sense. I would also look at a lock to secure access to the cargo area that can't be cut off. The more you can deter the more likely a would be thief is going to move on. There are bright yellow locks that you can put on the trailer wheel too to prevent theft too. I don't mean to make you worry, but definitely something to think about.
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
good stuff here folks!
for the doors the hocky puck style work well if the door latches will work with this style.
and make sure to have a locking hitch pin as well.
it is overlooked when locking a trailer to a draw bar.
or grade 8 double nut with red lock tite so you have to have a torch to spin the nuts
coupler latch lock works well
wheel lock for basic locking on one wheel
master lock makes a dandy basic lock kit
Thanks! I will be passing through Iowa on my way to Washington State from Madison, WI. It will be a fun journey!
 
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