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MeccaRav

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I have a 2019 rav4 xle that I love and have no problems with. Recently I started taking it “off-road” while my first experience was great. Second time out I got stuck going uphill on loose gravel, I had to get pulled out. I have been looking at the 2021 adventure because of the torque vectoring awd, or the 2021 4Runner with 4x4. I was leaning toward the 4Runner I have been watching videos of what the sr5 is capable of, but I would then want the TRD version which is not in my price range. Honestly I don’t think I would do anything more difficult then the moderate trail I got stuck on, and the RAV4 has better fuel economy, this will be my daily driver also. I feel now that the adventure would be capable for my needs, I guess I want opinions from adventure owners as far as how much you have pushed it going off-road, also some camping and over landing. Thanks for reading and let’s hear it.
 
I have both a 4Runner (just an SR5) and a RAV4 hybrid. Off road, there is no comparison. The main thing that makes the 4Runner so much better is the two speed transfer case. (The RAV4 hybrid, with its standard AWD powered by a 54 HP electric motor in the back, is just as capable off road as the adventure, and gets much better gas mileage.)

Also, the RAV4 lacks ground clearance. Hard to beat the standard (no lift) 12" ground clearance on the 4Runner.

The choice is yours; depends on what is more important to you: serious off road capability, or the comfort and fuel economy of the RAV4.
 
Hi, I've seen several videos of the SR5 doing serious off-roading, you don't need to step up the the TRD, you can always upgrade the tires/wheels on the SR5 in the future and save $$ not buying a TRD. But as a daily driver the Rav4 is much better with greater gas mileage and comfort, and it will get you through gravel road soft-roading, camping as well as being great in the snow. It depends on what your goals are as FKHeath stated. I changed to A/T tires on my Rav4 Trail and it has been great both on the trails and on the tarmac. Decisions..decisions.
 
Anything offroad, 4Runner, or Quad Cab Tacoma. You can always cap Tacoma, etc.

But do note, unless you install a locking rear diff (e-locker or air locker), even 4x4 you can still get stuck. A 4x4 with non-locking rear is not really a good 4x4.

So, the very 1st upgrade to get on SR5, is a rear locker.
 
I have an Adventure but there's no way in hell my Fiancé would let me off-road it haha. I can say it did INCREDIBLE in the snow and ice, even with meh tires.

I think FKHeath pretty much nailed it though

Given you already have the XLE, however, and current financing rates are disgusting, the best bang for your buck by far would be to just buy tires with a better tread for off-roading, such as the Falken Wildpeaks AT3s with the snowflake symbol. Good tires make a huge difference in traction, more so than the trick rear differential of the Adventure.
 
Good choice.
Rav to 4runner, is like night & day. Sure, more gasoline, but way more capable, and bigger inside.

btw, the SR5 is the perfect trim level to mod from. I still think rear locker is the 1st thing to do, after that you have lots of options for racks, suspension, etc. As for tires, I usually use the new OEM ones until tread is done, or I get stuck on a trail due to tires, then look for tires that match your driving habit accordingly, like KO2's are not a good choice if you do 95% on-road driving. From the pic, it does look like you can +1 those tires w/o any rubbing issues, but now you'll be on a 4Runner forum, so you can ask there.

Your pic shows grass, so you don't get too blistering hot, but also look into a slighter bigger trans cooler and inline filter. If it does not have a cooler then look into getting one (with filter).
 
Good choice.
Rav to 4runner, is like night & day. Sure, more gasoline, but way more capable, and bigger inside.

btw, the SR5 is the perfect trim level to mod from. I still think rear locker is the 1st thing to do, after that you have lots of options for racks, suspension, etc. As for tires, I usually use the new OEM ones until tread is done, or I get stuck on a trail due to tires, then look for tires that match your driving habit accordingly, like KO2's are not a good choice if you do 95% on-road driving. From the pic, it does look like you can +1 those tires w/o any rubbing issues, but now you'll be on a 4Runner forum, so you can ask there.

Your pic shows grass, so you don't get too blistering hot, but also look into a slighter bigger trans cooler and inline filter. If it does not have a cooler then look into getting one (with filter).
All good points.

The A-Trac on the SR5 works like a locking differential. I have never needed anything beyond that on my 4Runner (SR5).

My 4Runner has never shown any inclination to over heat, even in 115 degree Moab heat, or very slow trail crawling. Thus I don't think you need additional coolers. My Jeep wrangler used to over heat all the time, even when new.

I have KO2 in stock size, but load range E because I do a lot of off road in western Colorado where the rocks are sharp, granite, not the softer sandstone around Moab. They are great both off road and on road. Quiet and smooth on road, and great traction off road. The only issue reported with KO2 is they can be hard to get balanced right, but I have had no issues that way.

You might consider a modest lift. I have the Rough Country leveling kit which gives about 3" front and 1" rear. A bit more ground clearance.

If you do any serious off road, recommend some good armor. I have the OEM TRD front skid and RCI integrated skids everywhere else. I put a big dint in the TRD skid once, and really glad I had it; scrapped off one of the red letters.

Have fun with the new wheels, but be safe.

See you over on the 4Runner forum: Toyota-4Runner.org
 
The A-Trac on the SR5 works like a locking differential. I have never needed anything beyond that on my 4Runner (SR5).

My 4Runner has never shown any inclination to over heat, even in 115 degree Moab heat, or very slow trail crawling. Thus I don't think you need additional coolers. My Jeep wrangler used to over heat all the time, even when new.
Good info.

Better cooler just to keep heat out of the trans fluid. Lower trans fluid temp extends the life of the frictions inside. Adding the inline filter helps to get dirt out.
I was not saying add another cooler, more parts means more things that can fail. Just swap out to one a bit bigger.

A-trac is ok, but some misnomer in their words.

"A-TRAC detects when one or more wheels have lost traction and automatically applies the brakes to the wheel with no traction, allowing it to send power to the wheel with traction. "

There is no power in a wheel that is slipping or just spinning in air, thus you cannot move the non-existent power. Lock the free wheel so the diff can the lock up on the other axle. That works, but it's not the same as a locker. It's a trick done with slip diff's.

In a locker, whatever torque is in rear driveshaft will be divide by 2 to the wheels, 1/2 to each wheel on ground. If one wheel slips or free spins, the driveshaft power instantly transfers over to the wheel on ground. Wheel power only exists when a wheel can create force on the ground. There's no power in a free spin wheel.

Having a lock diff and A-trac I think is still ok, when you lock the diff no wheel will spin faster than the other, thus A-trac should not lock up a wheel. Would be bad to lock up a wheel with a locker engaged.
 
Good info.

Better cooler just to keep heat out of the trans fluid. Lower trans fluid temp extends the life of the frictions inside. Adding the inline filter helps to get dirt out.
I was not saying add another cooler, more parts means more things that can fail. Just swap out to one a bit bigger.

A-trac is ok, but some misnomer in their words.

"A-TRAC detects when one or more wheels have lost traction and automatically applies the brakes to the wheel with no traction, allowing it to send power to the wheel with traction. "

There is no power in a wheel that is slipping or just spinning in air, thus you cannot move the non-existent power. Lock the free wheel so the diff can the lock up on the other axle. That works, but it's not the same as a locker. It's a trick done with slip diff's.

In a locker, whatever torque is in rear driveshaft will be divide by 2 to the wheels, 1/2 to each wheel on ground. If one wheel slips or free spins, the driveshaft power instantly transfers over to the wheel on ground. Wheel power only exists when a wheel can create force on the ground. There's no power in a free spin wheel.

Having a lock diff and A-trac I think is still ok, when you lock the diff no wheel will spin faster than the other, thus A-trac should not lock up a wheel. Would be bad to lock up a wheel with a locker engaged.
Not sure on the 4Runners, but I thought ATRAC was exclusive to the off-road trims? I had a 2019 Tacoma, and since the rear differential rarely cooperated and worked anyway, I used a-trac extensively enough to decide that I liked it better, as it worked fantastically without binding as badly around corners as the locker did
 
Not sure on the 4Runners, but I thought ATRAC was exclusive to the off-road trims? I had a 2019 Tacoma, and since the rear differential rarely cooperated and worked anyway, I used a-trac extensively enough to decide that I liked it better, as it worked fantastically without binding as badly around corners as the locker did
Completely off-road, and binding?
 
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