Toyota RAV4 Forums banner
21 - 40 of 44 Posts
Discussion starter · #21 ·
When I did my 4Runner on a very warm Summer day, no fluid came out at first check. I had to stop and add half a quart. By the time I restarted the motor and slowly cycled through the gears several times it was above 113° and I had to wait about two hours to get it back down within range. The RAV4 I did in the Winter and it took about 5 miles of driving to get it to temp. But the check went much faster since I knew to add a little extra fluid. By the time I got back in the car to shut off the motor it had only gone up 2-3°.
So I would suggest at least 60’s and less than 90’s.
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
This is the transmission pan temp. The Torque Converter temp does not work on my 2015 RAV4.

ScanGauge Codes
Transmission Temperature (Pan) - 07E02182 046105820000 2808 00090005FFD8 TFT

I think it’s the first set of TPMS codes listed that worked for the RAV4. I will need to doublecheck.
 
Do you know scanGauge code for fuel pressure? The default one shows blank.

This is the transmission pan temp. The Torque Converter temp does not work on my 2015 RAV4.

ScanGauge Codes
Transmission Temperature (Pan) - 07E02182 046105820000 2808 00090005FFD8 TFT

I think it’s the first set of TPMS codes listed that worked for the RAV4. I will need to doublecheck.
 
Get your drain pan or buckets ready and use the 6mm hex to loosen the drain plug.
Drain the fluid until it’s only dripping out, about a quart, and then you can take out the green plastic level setting tube that is hiding inside the drain hole.
Unscrew this tube with the 6mm hex, you should probably only use your fingers for this. There is a video on YouTube that says there’s an o-ring but this is incorrect. No o-ring.
You will get another quart or so of fluid after removing this plastic tube.
It seems some people get more or less than the two quarts I got so make sure you’ve got an extra bucket ready just in case.
View attachment 168401
View attachment 168402
View attachment 168403
View attachment 168404
View attachment 168405
So is the level at the green fill tube, or is it running, hot, at the side fill plug? . Because this fill tube .reminds me of some others that you can fill with a pump through the drain until it drips . When it stops dripping that should be the level . But if I'm wrong then fill the side hole . Or are they one and the same. I never heard of measuring the amount that came out . What if the level was low to begin with?
 
I’m confused, and I have a,question. Well 2 I suppose.

confused because proper level is a “trickle” of fluid from “tube” when plug is removed from drain, AND trans temp is (whatever it’s supposed to be 113 degrees??). Fluid expands when hot so……….


1. When doing initial drain (plug removed, NOT dip tube there shouldn’t be any fluid coming out right? It’s cold so it should be lower than when hot

2. I understand you SHOULD check level but why not just do a drain and fill, replacing same amount that was drained?

sure, level may be wrong,from factory (or whomever did drain and fill last, BUT if our rav4 has been fine for 5 years, and 60k miles it should be fine with a drain and fill to the same level??
 
I just did a drain and fill on my 2015 Rav4 LE, I got a total of 2.5 quarts of fluid after removing the plug and straw. I replaced the plug and straw and added 3 quarts of fluid. Started the engine and warmed the vehicle transmission fluid to 104 degrees. I removed the plug and let the fluid out till it became a trickle and put the plug back in. I always end up with the same amount that was in the transmission to start with. I use a Scanguage II to watch the temperature of the fluid. I do this every 30-40 thousand miles.
 
I just did a drain and fill on my 2015 Rav4 LE, I got a total of 2.5 quarts of fluid after removing the plug and straw. I replaced the plug and straw and added 3 quarts of fluid. Started the engine and warmed the vehicle transmission fluid to 104 degrees. I removed the plug and let the fluid out till it became a trickle and put the plug back in. I always end up with the same amount that was in the transmission to start with. I use a Scanguage II to watch the temperature of the fluid. I do this every 30-40 thousand miles.
why not just add the exact amount you drained? Why would you check for the “right” amount?

have you tried the D/N drive with the obd jumPerd?
 
Why not check? It could have been high or low to begin with - due to overfilling before or a slight leak.

Regardless of what fluid I drain, I always check to make sure what I put in is right - whether it be oil, coolant, differential, brake, transfer case and whatever else.
 
Why not check? It could have been high or low to begin with - due to overfilling before or a slight leak.

Regardless of what fluid I drain, I always check to make sure what I put in is right - whether it be oil, coolant, differential, brake, transfer case and whatever else.
I get that. But if my rav is 5 years old, 90k mileage, no leaks on the ground and it’s been driving just fine all this time it’s not over or under filled.

When I change motor oil I “measure” the amount of oil I put in (I don’t measure what I drain) according to what the manual says and of course I check the dip stick and it’s always the correct amount.

just asking. That’s all. I’ll likely buy a scan gauge.
 
It's just easier for me to add the three quarts and then adjust the level when the fluid temp reaches 104 degrees. This way I'm sure I have the right level. Also, if you purchase a Scanguge II, you have to go to their website and get the codes to program it for the transmission fluid temp to show.
 
It's just easier for me to add the three quarts and then adjust the level when the fluid temp reaches 104 degrees. This way I'm sure I have the right level. Also, if you purchase a Scanguge II, you have to go to their website and get the codes to program it for the transmission fluid temp to show.
‘do you have to do the same for the scangage 3? Was looking at the newest one.
 
21 - 40 of 44 Posts