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Rob_mc_1

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi,
I recently Bought a 2021 Rav4 Prime XSE. Where I live, it can easily get to -30c. Because it was not originally in my province it did not come with a block heater. Where I am a blocker is only required on new vehicles. I also have to park outside as I do not have a heated garage.

I became interested in the Toyota Comfort+. I tried doing research on it and found that the information on this was lacking. Also the dealership I went to does not seem to understand their products. When they gave me the items list it was missing items. For example, the Defa cabin heaters comes in either 1000w and 1200w options. The toyota manual contains the stats for both options. Both options also show up on the tag on the power cord you plug in. There it implies that you can have a 1200w cabin heater with a 200w block heater or a 1000w cabin heater with a 400w block heater. The Parts department did not know what I was talking about. Both heaters are mentioned in the specifications page in the Toyota manual.

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I also am not entirely clear on the performance issues of these units. A few things have seemed clear. The heat pump is pointless after -10c. I've seen some comments that on colder days they say the cabin heater cannot keep up. This still leaves me with a few questions. At what temperature is it that it can't keep up? Does it at least take the edge off the cold/better then nothing? Is there a point where the windows wont clear?

I have decided to install it myself. I am also going to install this in stages. Mainly because of cost. I still have to get my winter tires in order. Below is the expected cost in parts. I expect it to end up at $861 CAD

Part #NamePaid (CAD)Notes
PK5A4-89J14Block Heater$ 120.00200W
PK5A4-89J21Cable$ 45.00From block heater to trickle charger
PK5A4-89J221.5m Armored Extention Cable$ 35.00Extend length to cabin heater to trickle charger
PK5A4-89J300.8m Armored Inlet Cable$ 45.00From bumper to trickle charger or block heater (if it is on its own)
PK5A4-89J402.5m Home Power Cord$ 45.00Wall outlet to car
PK5A4-89J50+12V Battery Charger and Straight Bracket$ 190.00Trickle charger
PK5A4-89J60Bluetooth Hub$ 190.00Optional, This communicates with the app
PK5A4-89J70Cabin Heater$ 235.001200W
90119-A0429Bolt$ 1.00To secure block heater

So far, The only 2 parts I do not have are the block heater and the cabin heater.

Block heater
Considering 0w16 flows freely at -40c im not as worried. As long as it starts it should be fine. If I do it it will be more for consistency and what is expected where I live. The problem is, I'm not sure exactly where it goes or even if I can access it. My best guess is on the drivers side of the engine towards the rear but that is a very cluttered area. Also if the only option is the 400w then that would restrict me to a 1000w cabin heater. I would rather try the 1200w cabin heater. If I opt not to do the block heater and I can only get the 1000w cabin heater then I might try to source the Defa 1200w from another source.

Cabin heater
When I get it I will probably send the cable through the firewall on the passenger side grommet as it is very visible just standing in front.
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Bluetooth Hub
The most interesting thing is the Ignition wire. It is optional. It run from the ignition switch from under the dash to the Bluetooth hub. Its purpose is to send you a notification if it sees the car is on and you are still plugged into the house. This is so you don't drive away while plugged in. The manual even admits that this function is not compatible with all hybrids. While it would be interesting to hook up there are 2 strikes against me doing it. The grommet that is near the break cylinder looks very busy. As it is, it looks like there is a massive capacitor back there. I would need to remove the cowl to investigate. Also I don't think I will ever see a diagram for the ignition switch. I have no idea how it even works with the push button. To me it would make sense if that button was monitored by the computer. Then there is no need for that wire to be anywhere under the dash. The temperature sensor I will mount Behind the grill or bumper. I'll probably do that in I install the inlet cable.

The Trickle Charger
The 2 main things is where do I want to mount it and how do I want to connect it. Since the Booster terminal is in the fuse box I will probably tie into that. I don't see the need to run it to the trunk.


So far I have tested a few things by connecting enough cables to sync the Bluetooth hub to the app. I was able to use my phone to stop charging and I heard the inverter click off. I also updated its firmware. This was inside my house on my counter. Now I just need to schedule the install.

Before I do if there is anything I should be aware of let me know. If people would like a follow up then I would be more then happy to post it here and I move along this project. I hope to have this done before snow flies. Or at least before my hand freeze outside.

I'm also including a picture of the parts as reference.
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Question: are you sure the comfort+ system can be installed on a hybrid/Prime? Seems they were made for ICE only cars. The cooling system on the hybrid/Prime is considerably different than the ICE vehicles, i.e. two cooling system (ICE and hybrid), water pump is not engine driven, etc.

It is my understanding that the cabin heater and block heater are options and have to be bought separately.
 
This post has instructions for installing the Toyota block heater in a 2019 Trail. While I realize that is a completely different vehicle than your Prime, the instructions may contain some useful information.

 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
Question: are you sure the comfort+ system can be installed on a hybrid/Prime? Seems they were made for ICE only cars. The cooling system on the hybrid/Prime is considerably different than the ICE vehicles, i.e. two cooling system (ICE and hybrid), water pump is not engine driven, etc.

It is my understanding that the cabin heater and block heater are options and have to be bought separately.
When you look at how things are connected the only 3 places where the Defa system can touch the rav4 is the block heater, the trickle charge for the 12v battery and the ignition wire. All are optional. The defa system gets its power from the wall outlet, not the internal system. That is how I was able to turn it on and sync it with my phone.

The block heater being a requirement in my province means they couldnt even sell new rav4 primes if there were no compatible options.

Heater plugs into trickle charger and not the car.

I assume the boost terminals are compatible with a trickle charger.

To me this is no different then adding raptor lights to a rav4.

I just need to figure out the pieces.
 
Block Heater - Unknown Voltage
Cabin Heater - Unknown Voltage
The voltage can be inferred from the Watts and (rounded!) Amps.
1200W/10A is 120V
1000W/8.3A is 120V (is really 8.33333A)
200W/1.6A is 120V (is really 1.66666A)
60W/0.5A is 120V

The heaters will work on a wide range of household voltage, just heat faster/slower. The charger is surely a wide-range switcher working on any likely voltage world-wide.

I'm mildly surprised your area can mandate heaters. I can see studded-tire so you don't go out and block the highway. But a cold block means you might not start, won't leave your parking spot and won't annoy others. (I assume you don't get 120V power at work or shops.) If meant to keep you alive in a frigid traffic jam or blizzard, a car battery or alternator won't last long at 1000+ Watts (<30min). A Beans or Hudsons blanket seems wiser.
 
Welcome Rob

I looked into the Defa cabin heater a couple years ago and decided against it because of the cost. I park outside as well.


To answer a couple of your questions about the Prime heat pump operation. At around -10C the heat pump won't function and the car will start in Hybrid mode ie the engine will start when you push the start button. If it's around -8C then the heat pump is pretty anemic, seat heaters help, but there is definitely no hot air coming from the system.

At winter temps (-10C to -40C) the Prime operates as a regular toyota hybrid vehicle. The engine runs, heat is pulled off to heat the cabin, and you get regenerative power saved to the battery. I tried for the first winter to run in EV even in colder temps, but now if it's close to -10C I just hit the defrost button to make sure the engine starts right away. With the seat heaters to take the chill off, I find the cabin heats up fast enough that I'm not in need of a pre-heated cabin.

I have the Defa block heater, it works well, but as you said with the lighter oil the car doesn't have any problem starting in cold temps. I still plug in when it's below -20C but it's probably not required. It does help the cabin heat a little faster when the engine doesn't start quite so cold.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
The voltage can be inferred from the Watts and (rounded!) Amps.
1200W/10A is 120V
1000W/8.3A is 120V (is really 8.33333A)
200W/1.6A is 120V (is really 1.66666A)
60W/0.5A is 120V

The heaters will work on a wide range of household voltage, just heat faster/slower. The charger is surely a wide-range switcher working on any likely voltage world-wide.

I'm mildly surprised your area can mandate heaters. I can see studded-tire so you don't go out and block the highway. But a cold block means you might not start, won't leave your parking spot and won't annoy others. (I assume you don't get 120V power at work or shops.) If meant to keep you alive in a frigid traffic jam or blizzard, a car battery or alternator won't last long at 1000+ Watts (<30min). A Beans or Hudsons blanket seems wiser.
Made a mistake. I corrected it to unknown wattage.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
This post has instructions for installing the Toyota block heater in a 2019 Trail. While I realize that is a completely different vehicle than your Prime, the instructions may contain some useful information.

Hi,
I finally had a chance to review it and it is very useful. The body is the same and seeing how to install the Inlet on the bumper is awesome. When I was looking at the documentation that came with the cable it said to refer to documents in the dealer portal. I'll make sure I cross refence it all first.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
So this afternoon I got the trickle charger mostly installed. Also mounted the inlet. Thermometer is zip tied next to that. Figured out where I want the ground/negative to go. Still need to figure out where the positive will need to go. Zipped tied the cables behind the head light for know. I will need to move the trickle charger as it interferes with opening the hatch to the air filter. Once that is figured out I will tidy up the cables a bit.

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Wondering if you got it all installed? Our rav has a block heater. I don’t know if it’s a DEFA or not.

I contacted 3 dealers. My selling dealer said I couldn’t instal the comfort system on a tundra. None of them know a damn thing about the system.
 
Wondering if you got it all installed? Our rav has a block heater. I don’t know if it’s a DEFA or not.

I contacted 3 dealers. My selling dealer said I couldn’t instal the comfort system on a tundra. None of them know a damn thing about the system.
The Comfort Plus system is sold by Toyota Canada, and is not really available in the US, thus most US dealers have never heard of it: Comfort+ Heating Accessories - Toyota Canada
 
The Comfort Plus system is sold by Toyota Canada, and is not really available in the US, thus most US dealers have never heard of it: Comfort+ Heating Accessories - Toyota Canada
im Canadian. Living in Canada. My selling dealer was clueless. Dealer #2 was going to look into it (gave my vin). Dealer 3 didn’t bother to,respond back.

action truck seems to,know what going on (for the tundra).
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
im Canadian. Living in Canada. My selling dealer was clueless. Dealer #2 was going to look into it (gave my vin). Dealer 3 didn’t bother to,respond back.

action truck seems to,know what going on (for the tundra).
Yes the dealers are clueless on this. When I originally asked about it, I went to service, service then referred me to parts, parts referred me to finance, then finance walk me back over to parts and got the list together. That is why I ran across compatibility issues since when I made the last post. Since then I had talked to the head mechanic who said there is not listed as option accessories for the 2021 Rav4 Prime. I then asked about the 2023, there was no listings for it there either. I asked about 2023 because that was the year on the invoice for the parts. It was at that point where they figured sales shouldn't have sold it to me as an option.

The main point of compatibility Issue seems to be that the fuse box on other rav4 have a bolt mount in the fuse box to tighten it too.

The reason why I have not made progress is due to getting a bad one one and then covid after. After missing that much work it kind of went to the way side. I'm hoping to continue this at the end of the month or January.

My plan is to run the trickle charge wire through the firewall with the cabin heater wire. Then have that run to the battery itself.

If you know how to run wires it wouldn't be too hard to do it as a side project. If you can talk to a technician, they will be able to look instructions up for your vehicle.

I'll go look up the instructions from the manual and post them here. it will show how it is wired and then you will see how it is really independent for the most part.

I cannot comment on performance. That is the really information we need. They say it is useless after -20. Even if it seems that way I would like to know if it is still better then nothing. Also I want to know the wattages because I was not able to get that information either.
 
Yes the dealers are clueless on this. When I originally asked about it, I went to service, service then referred me to parts, parts referred me to finance, then finance walk me back over to parts and got the list together. That is why I ran across compatibility issues since when I made the last post. Since then I had talked to the head mechanic who said there is not listed as option accessories for the 2021 Rav4 Prime. I then asked about the 2023, there was no listings for it there either. I asked about 2023 because that was the year on the invoice for the parts. It was at that point where they figured sales shouldn't have sold it to me as an option.

The main point of compatibility Issue seems to be that the fuse box on other rav4 have a bolt mount in the fuse box to tighten it too.

The reason why I have not made progress is due to getting a bad one one and then covid after. After missing that much work it kind of went to the way side. I'm hoping to continue this at the end of the month or January.

My plan is to run the trickle charge wire through the firewall with the cabin heater wire. Then have that run to the battery itself.

If you know how to run wires it wouldn't be too hard to do it as a side project. If you can talk to a technician, they will be able to look instructions up for your vehicle.

I'll go look up the instructions from the manual and post them here. it will show how it is wired and then you will see how it is really independent for the most part.

I cannot comment on performance. That is the really information we need. They say it is useless after -20. Even if it seems that way I would like to know if it is still better then nothing. Also I want to know the wattages because I was not able to get that information either.
this is the company that Toyota gets the comfort system from:


1000, and 1200W are the heater ratings.

I’ve used cabin warmers (not DEFA) for years. Here’s the reality:

people over estimate what these heaters do. They will NOT provide toasty warm interiors in -30, or colder weather.

what they WILL do,is take the edge off winter. They will prevent frost on windows, and if there’s any ice, it will be very easy to remove.

the DEFA stuff will work in any vehicle. It’s a matter of a DEFA block heater being available. My tundra has the plug in the bumper. It’s slick. I’d love to have a comfort plus system in the tundra and rav.

I currently have an old (20 years+) cabin warmer from crappy tire. I,just power it with an extention cord that comes,out from the passenger door. Totally ghetto, lol
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
this is the company that Toyota gets the comfort system from:


1000, and 1200W are the heater ratings.

I’ve used cabin warmers (not DEFA) for years. Here’s the reality:

people over estimate what these heaters do. They will NOT provide toasty warm interiors in -30, or colder weather.

what they WILL do,is take the edge off winter. They will prevent frost on windows, and if there’s any ice, it will be very easy to remove.

the DEFA stuff will work in any vehicle. It’s a matter of a DEFA block heater being available. My tundra has the plug in the bumper. It’s slick. I’d love to have a comfort plus system in the tundra and rav.

I currently have an old (20 years+) cabin warmer from crappy tire. I,just power it with an extention cord that comes,out from the passenger door. Totally ghetto, lol
I know it is from Defa.

Even Toyota cannot answer if their part is the 1000, and 1200W and defa wont sell direct and tells you to talk to the dealer ship. The funny thing is they couldn't answer what wattage is the block heater. there are 2 different possibilities. The toyota documents just show the stats of 2 different versions and have the wattage for the 1000w unit at -25 wrong when compared to the manufacturer.

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This is why we need numbers and not marketing vagueness. I do believe that the amount drawn at -25 is correct from the manufacturer. The thermostat for the unit is outside of the cabin. So what is the impact of the 100w difference in draw between the 2 units. Does the larger one make sense? Who knows, Toyota only has one part number for me and no Idea as to which one it is.

Also block heater is not required. I will not be doing a block heater. 0w16 flows well in cold temperatures.

I'm looking more at a cold 12v battery and internal defrost of the windows. the Comfort+ app has a scheduler with departure time.

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Discussion starter · #19 ·
After installation, what is the source of power for this heater? 120v AC from your home via an extension cord? Or DC from your prime's high voltage traction battery? Or?
This is the diagram I'm going to follow.

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This heater gets it power from the wall outlet. It does not operate unless the block heater cable is plugged into the wall outlet. This is more like a glorifies command start meant to preheat your cabin.

The Vehicle battery is the 12v accessory battery. that is just a trickle charger that also monitors battery health.

The Bluetooth harness will not be hooked up the ignition. That wire is only there to warn you if your car is still plugged in if you are about to drive away.

The app will let me program the departure time so the vehicle will be ready when I'm about to leave. The duration will be calculated based on the temp sensor.
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
Lunch Break update. With other shots.

I have the cowl off and the wiper arm bracket. I'm not sure on the exact term as I am not a mechanic. I believe I know my point of entry.
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The extension cord is defiantly needed.

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I also picked up 25ft of 12awg wire, 1/4" wire protector to fish to the 12v battery in the back, a stud ring and heat shrink.

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Here are a few shot of the back side as most will never look.

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Also based on what I have seen back there I'm glad I abandoned the Idea of adding the block heater. I'm not sure how they even add them. I also did take the time to dust a few things while there. I'm hoping to add a few after shots as I go along.

Dismantling was easier then it looked with the only 2 annoying bolts being the 2 number 10 under the motor. I hope assembly is as smooth. But first lunch.
 

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