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So, here is a related question.... how many here know what an A&P is ?
Does this website have a long list of acronyms that anyone owning a Rav4 should memorize?
What are the acronym rules?
Yeah a little tongue in cheek, but even google did not satisfy my look up
Well, A&P used to be a grocery store. Not sure if it still is. Surely that's what was meant, right? If not, I'm as lost as you are. 😁 Only difference is, I just ignored it.
 
Well, A&P used to be a grocery store. Not sure if it still is. Surely that's what was meant, right? If not, I'm as lost as you are. 😁 Only difference is, I just ignored it.
I was also gonna go with the super market definition but then I thought maybe that may be a stretch.
I am waiting for the secret Rav4 Acronym list so that i also can join the club.......:)
 
I was also gonna go with the super market definition but then I thought maybe that may be a stretch.
I am waiting for the secret Rav4 Acronym list so that i also can join the club.......:)
Sorry, Airframe & Powerplant mechanic. They are certificated by the FAA. Most know their stuff.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
So, here is a related question.... how many here know what an A&P is ?
Does this website have a long list of acronyms that anyone owning a Rav4 should memorize?
What are the acronym rules?
Yeah a little tongue in cheek, but even google did not satisfy my look up
Good question. I was afraid to ask so I didn't. There's always that one guy lurking in the shadows... That one smart ass guy that comes out and enters a forum for his own masturbatatory reasons just to blurt out "read the manual"

😂
 
I am obviously not familiar w the airplane industry, why do they use the term A&P but do not add the term "mechanic" after it? Just asking
The FAA loves TLA's. BNA to TPA IFR via GPS, at or above MEA and MVA using ATC in the NAS. Don't wander into a MOA, and watch for TFRs. Check the TAF and MOS before you go, track a VOR, join the ILS. Watch RVR if landing using LVP. See the AFD to find the FBO.

It's acronym soup. And APM apparently was already used as "Approach Path Monitor" which is an ATC (air traffic control) tool. So A&P stuck...

TLA = three letter acronym. The rest don't really matter :cool:
 
Some people like to get their oil changed at 1,000 miles. It's debatable whether it is necessary with modern engines but it doesn't hurt. I will probably do it. "Do not drive continuously in low gears" may not apply to your hybrid. Since the ICE models have an 8-speed transmission, you can slide the shifter to the left to put it in a manual shift mode, which would keep the tranny in a lower gear and allow the engine to rev higher. Not sure if the hybrids have that feature since they are eCVT. Just leave the shifter in the customary position and it won't be an issue. Sudden stops are not recommended; this allows the brakes to bed properly. They want you to vary the speed of the vehicle somewhat because maintaining a constant speed can (in theory) cause the mating surfaces in the engine, transmission, and elsewhere to break in for that specific speed instead of breaking in for more general use. Overall, just don't abuse the car for the first 1,000 miles and you'll be fine. After that, abuse away !! 😁
Regarding break in oil and changing oil early on in first several hundred miles
, here is another you tube from an oil analyst...as seen in a previous post in another thread...perhaps you did not
here it is again by popular demand

 
Yeah it's probably more of a cultural difference, that style of presentation seems more expected over that side of the pond! Here it would raise instant suspicion.

Also what chuckles said.
Yep. In the U.S. marketing makes all the difference (unfortunately). I try to stay away from the companies that appear to be the most successful at what they do and try to find the ones that are actually the best at what they do. That usually means staying away from the ones that advertise the most.
 
Can someone give me some advice. These directions are confusing:

● For the first 200 miles: Avoid sudden stops.
● For the first 500 miles: Do not tow a trailer.
● For the first 600 miles:
Do not drive at extremely high speeds.
Avoid sudden acceleration.
Do not drive continuously in low gears.
Do not drive at a constant speed for extended periods.


I bought 24 RAV4 Prime XSE - two weeks prior before driving from Bay Area to Las Vegas.

What exactly does "do not drive continuously in low gears or drive at a constant speed entail?

Obviously it means don't put cruise control on 60 for the whole journey so I have varied my speed 65, then cruise at 70, some 75...

Trying never to go into the power range striving for ECO and doing pretty good.

When traffic gets heavy I put cruise on 70 and let the car speed up and slow down at will so that definitely varies the pace.

No sudden stops, no heavy acceleration... All town driving is in Battery mode...

Anything else? Should first oil change as soon as I get back? This trip up and back will have put ~1000 miles on odometer... Already had 90 prior to that.
I been buying cars(trucks) since 1968. Back in the day brake in was important to some people. If you got 60-100'000 miles before overhaul you was lucky. This was the days of leaded gas. Unleaded gas changed all that. I started an auto parts store in 1973. We had $9000 worth of exhaust. I was in business for 35 years. When unleaded gas came out it killed the exhaust business. Inventory went to about $1000. Engine parts sales was massive back in the 70's,80's and 90's. Now it's a thing of the past mostly. It's not uncommon to get 250-400'000 miles now from some makes if properly maintained. To me brake-in period of modern engines are a thing of the past. Maintenance is very important. Change your oil and filter immediately even if you buy new or used and never go over 5000 miles or 6 months before oil and filter changes. And drive a new vehicle normal as soon as you get it. Remember NO breaking in needed on new vehicles.
 
I agree, to some extent. The eCVT varies the RPM so much that there is no need to change speeds. Also, is that 5000 odometer miles , or ICE miles. There is a big difference. In my case, 5000 on the odo, would likely only be around 2000 on the ICE. IMHO, that is a waste of money. To each his own.
 
I been buying cars(trucks) since 1968. Back in the day brake in was important to some people. If you got 60-100'000 miles before overhaul you was lucky. This was the days of leaded gas. Unleaded gas changed all that. I started an auto parts store in 1973. We had $9000 worth of exhaust. I was in business for 35 years. When unleaded gas came out it killed the exhaust business. Inventory went to about $1000. Engine parts sales was massive back in the 70's,80's and 90's. Now it's a thing of the past mostly. It's not uncommon to get 250-400'000 miles now from some makes if properly maintained. To me brake-in period of modern engines are a thing of the past. Maintenance is very important. Change your oil and filter immediately even if you buy new or used and never go over 5000 miles or 6 months before oil and filter changes. And drive a new vehicle normal as soon as you get it. Remember NO breaking in needed on new vehicles.
The banning of leaded gas may have been good for exhaust systems but it was detrimental to virtually every other function of the engine since lead is very effective both as a lubricant and for knock prevention. It took the automotive industry nearly 40 years to recover and bring compression ratios up to where they were with leaded gas. I'm not saying the banning of leaded gas was a bad thing. But it certainly did not contribute to making engines more reliable. To the contrary, in fact. That ban (which was necessary) combined with the overly aggressive pollution controls in the early 1970s (too much too soon) resulted in some of the biggest pieces of junk in automotive history.
 
The banning of leaded gas may have been good for exhaust systems but it was detrimental to virtually every other function of the engine since lead is very effective both as a lubricant and for knock prevention. It took the automotive industry nearly 40 years to recover and bring compression ratios up to where they were with leaded gas. I'm not saying the banning of leaded gas was a bad thing. But it certainly did not contribute to making engines more reliable. To the contrary, in fact. That ban (which was necessary) combined with the overly aggressive pollution controls in the early 1970s (too much too soon) resulted in some of the biggest pieces of junk in automotive history.
Not sure banning leaded gas was "overly aggressive" from a human health perspective. We do have a nasty habit of poisoning ourselves.

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