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I understand that’s cold to many, but for engine oil I wouldn’t consider that extreme. I’m talking at least -40F air temp, which less than 1% of the population sees. I understand it advertises at have better cold start wear protection properties, but the difference between 0w-16 and 0w-20 is negligible at only -10F.
Does 0-16 vs 0-20 start to diverge in viscosity as the temps decline down from say 0F to -40F?
0w's should be about the same in low temps, but I am not 100% sure there's any diverging if the oil is API spec, literally not sure, so I ask.

All the 0w's should be ok to -40F ?, but how much diff there is between 0-16 0-20 0-30 or even 0-40 is to be seen from lab tests. I think at -40F the oil base group matters. -40F and they start to turn into wax.
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Does 0-16 vs 0-20 start to diverge in viscosity as the temps decline down from say 0F to -40F?
0w's should be about the same in low temps, but I am not 100% sure there's any diverging if the oil is API spec, literally not sure, so I ask.

All the 0w's should be ok to -40F ?, but how much diff there is between 0-16 0-20 0-30 or even 0-40 is to be seen from lab tests. I think at -40F the oil base group matters. -40F and they start to turn into wax.
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I’m speaking in terms of cold flow at start up, not operating temp.
 
I’m speaking in terms of cold flow at start up, not operating temp.
Yes, I understand that. I would not be asking about low temp stuff if it were at operating temp, since a 0-20 will be like a 20 at op temp, 0-30 like a 30 at op temp, etc etc.

I asking specifically about how the 0 side is at the low temp, diffs between the 0-16 vs 0-20 ve 0-30 mixes at the low temp side. Do they all act the same at say -25F, or do the mixes behave differently even though they are all 0's on the low side?
 
Same thing with our present 5th generation RAV4. I doubt there will actually be a completely different 6th gen for several years.
Tazio, what grade of oil and brand are you using for your Rav? And do you interchange w different grades or stick to just one. With your extensive readings, do you think there is any detriment to using 0-20 in a temperate climate like So Calif permanently?
Thanks
 
Yes, I understand that. I would not be asking about low temp stuff if it were at operating temp, since a 0-20 will be like a 20 at op temp, 0-30 like a 30 at op temp, etc etc.

I asking specifically about how the 0 side is at the low temp, diffs between the 0-16 vs 0-20 ve 0-30 mixes at the low temp side. Do they all act the same at say -25F, or do the mixes behave differently even though they are all 0's on the low side?
I would assume the 0w-16 would act better in absolutely extreme conditions with the film retaining properties being traditionally better than that of say a standard 0w-30. The idea that the 16 has to be engineered as such with priority because of the lack of film strength, whereas that isn’t so much of priority issue with 0w-30. At operating temp I wouldn’t worry at all. 0w-16 seems much more viscous in the cold that 0w-30, even just pouring bottles in my garage in the winter 🤷‍♂️
 
Tazio, what grade of oil and brand are you using for your Rav? And do you interchange w different grades or stick to just one. With your extensive readings, do you think there is any detriment to using 0-20 in a temperate climate like So Calif permanently?
Thanks
For my first DIY break in oil change at 1K miles I used a new OEM Toyota filter and quart bottles of TGMO Toyota 0w-16. I have a '21 gas model so for the last two years with the free Toyota Care I have just gone to the dealer (Toyota of Corvallis) and they claim to also use TGMO 0w-16. When I looked through the large windows in the service bay, they pulled down a hose from the ceiling and pumped in the oil presumably from a bulk barrel...so I'm taking their word on this-but who knows? They could have been using anything. In May, my Toyota Care expires and I will start to do my own oil changes again. I have already bought my oil and filter. I will use Mobil 1 Extended Performance 0W-20 with the Dexos and NASCAR certification. NOTE:This is NOT the one that says it is for "high mileage cars" and it is not the "Advanced Fuel Economy" oil. I will use the WIX 51394 oil filter which is slightly longer and slightly bigger in capacity than the Toyota OEM filter. This is the filter used on the 2021 Camry which has our same engine. I think 0W-20 is fine for California. If you have an open road and can drive fast at high revs I think it has better film strength and a higher shear factor and will protect the engine internals. If you are stuck in 100 degree F weather in the endless traffic jams on the 405 in L.A. and the oil heats up I think it will do a slightly better job than 0W-16. I have always stuck to one brand and one viscosity in all my cars. This has varied over the decades of course and with the car. Back in the early 1960s on beater Fiats, English and Italian sports cars and '50s Fords I used non-detergent straight 30W Valvoline. In the 1970-1990s I used Castrol 20W-50 in Volvos and Fords. In the 1980s I used Valvoline Racing Oil straight 40W in my autocross water-cooled VWs. In early 2000s I used Castrol 10W-30 in Jeeps. Here is the oil and filter I will install in MAY in my 2021 gas model XLE.
 

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For my first DIY break in oil change at 1K miles I used a new OEM Toyota filter and quart bottles of TGMO Toyota 0w-16. I have a '21 gas model so for the last two years with the free Toyota Care I have just gone to the dealer (Toyota of Corvallis) and they claim to also use TGMO 0w-16. When I looked through the large windows in the service bay, they pulled down a hose from the ceiling and pumped in the oil presumably from a bulk barrel...so I'm taking their word on this-but who knows? They could have been using anything. In May, my Toyota Care expires and I will start to do my own oil changes again. I have already bought my oil and filter. I will use Mobil 1 Extended Performance 0W-20 with the Dexos and NASCAR certification. NOTE:This is NOT the one that says it is for "high mileage cars" and it is not the "Advanced Fuel Economy" oil. I will use the WIX 51394 oil filter which is slightly longer and slightly bigger in capacity than the Toyota OEM filter. This is the filter used on the 2021 Camry which has our same engine. I think 0W-20 is fine for California. If you have an open road and can drive fast at high revs I think it has better film strength and a higher shear factor and will protect the engine internals. If you are stuck in 100 degree F weather in the endless traffic jams on the 405 in L.A. and the oil heats up I think it will do a slightly better job than 0W-16. I have always stuck to one brand and one viscosity in all my cars. This has varied over the decades of course and with the car. Back in the early 1960s on beater Fiats, English and Italian sports cars and '50s Fords I used non-detergent straight 30W Valvoline. In the 1970-1990s I used Castrol 20W-50 in Volvos and Fords. In the 1980s I hsed Valvoline Racing Oil straight 40W in my autocross water-cooled VWs. In early 2000s I used Castrol 10W-30 in Jeeps. Here is the oil and filter I will install in MAY in my 2021 gas model XLE.
Xlnt info Tazio,
I've been a Mobil 1 synthetic oil user for probably 20 plus years on my Toyotas too. Based on your comments I will go w 0-20 instead of 0-16. I've been checking this oil out Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and am now on the fence of switching oils based on this video and user comments on the video. I also, very many years ago was a Castrol guy.

Regarding the filter, I've used Wix XP for at least 8 plus years and if its micron size filtering matches your filter I will switch to yours. I like the idea of added capacity , Hmmm. will you still be able to get an Oil Filter wrench on it as your filter is longer ? (I use a wrench which goes on the end of the filter w a ratchet wrench)

Pennzoil video

I knew I came to the right guy for advice based on your racing heritage below ..... ; )

Thanks for your response
Much appreciated
 
I've been checking this oil out Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and am now on the fence of switching oils based on this video and user comments on the video.
That Pennzoil UP has gotten good reviews on Bob is the Oil GUY and in some ways it may be as good or better than the Mobil1 EP. I have a personal bias though against Pennzoil--but that's just me. In the old days Pennzoil and Quaker State had a reputation amongst the guys I associated with as being the cheapest, crappiest oil and I have never gotten over that antique criticism. I think most guys on RAV4World use the Mobil 1 brand if they are not using TGMO so I prefer that because I'm sure it is good. Bob is the Oil Guy has lots of favorable threads about the Mobil1 EP.
 
Regarding the filter, I've used Wix XP for at least 8 plus years and if its micron size filtering matches your filter I will switch to yours.
The WIX XP 51394 version has SYNTHETIC medium and filters down to 21 microns. The standard WIX 51394 I'm using is cellulose medium and also filters down to 21 microns. The stock Toyota filter is also cellulose medium. Here's the deal--the cellulose medium actually does a better job filtering particles as long as you change the oil and filter every 5K miles or so. Synthetic medium is designed to trap and hold particulates for LONGER mileages like 10K. However that synthetic medium eventually allows a greater quantity of particles to pass through and escape.
 
, Hmmm. will you still be able to get an Oil Filter wrench on it as your filter is longer ? (I use a wrench which goes on the end of the filter w a ratchet wrench)
Yes -you will have plenty of clearance room under the RAV to use the cap fitting and a socket wrench. Several posters in this forum have been using the WIX 57145 filter for years on 5th generation RAVs and that one is even LONGER than the WIX 51394. Also,I just tested my new 51394 with my Walmart cap wrench attachment and it is a perfect fit on the end of the filter.
 

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Yes -you will have plenty of clearance room under the RAV to use the cap fitting and a socket wrench. Several posters in this forum have been using the WIX 57145 filter for years on 5th generation RAVs and that one is even LONGER than the WIX 51394. Also,I just tested my new 51394 with my Walmart cap wrench attachment and it is a perfect fit on the end of the filter.
Great info, will go w the longer filter !
Great racing career !!!
 

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Hey Taz. Is the stock 90915-YZZN1 filter the same circumference as the WIX 51394? I want to know if my filter wrench will still fit the WIX. Thanks in advance.
They are exactly the same on the end where you use the standard cap wrench 64 mm with 14 flutes. The smooth section diameter and circumference is very close if not the same if you plan on using a strap type wrench. The WIX 51394 is 2.69" diameter, the WIX 10332 (same as Toyota OEM) is 2.685" diameter, and the OEM YZZN1 is 2 11/16" which converts to 2.69" diameter.
 

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They are exactly the same on the end where you use the standard cap wrench 64 mm with 14 flutes. The smooth section diameter and circumference is very close if not the same if you plan on using a strap type wrench. The WIX 51394 is 2.69" diameter, the WIX 10332 (same as Toyota OEM) is 2.685" diameter, and the OEM YZZN1 is 2 11/16" which converts to 2.69" diameter.
Thank you!
 
The WIX XP 51394 version has SYNTHETIC medium and filters down to 21 microns. The standard WIX 51394 I'm using is cellulose medium and also filters down to 21 microns. The stock Toyota filter is also cellulose medium. Here's the deal--the cellulose medium actually does a better job filtering particles as long as you change the oil and filter every 5K miles or so. Synthetic medium is designed to trap and hold particulates for LONGER mileages like 10K. However that synthetic medium eventually allows a greater quantity of particles to pass through and escape.
Here is a video reflecting a number of charcteristics for the Wix XP vs Purolator Boss... check out just after 12 minutes for particles passing thru the filters.... in this test there is a significant difference in what passes thru the Boss vs XP... The Purolator Boss wins in this respect... I have not seen any data to contradict this finding "so far"

 
I just realized that I have never used the same brand of oil twice 😀
Our RAV4 never been at dealership so after factory filled TGMO I used Idemitsu, Liqui Moly, Eneos, Motul, Castrol, Penzoil, Mobil1, Valvoline and one domestic oil brand from local shop.
All of which have an API badge on it, so you’re good to go! To be fair most every non-performance vehicle I’ve owned or maintained has gotten Walmart’s Supertech Synthetic or Costco’s Kirkland Synthetic (same product from Warren). Hard to beat for the price and easy availability.
 
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