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Nema 14-50 plug --- GFCI breaker required?

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If you have a Nema 14-50 outlet in your Garage or outside, is it on a GFCI breaker?

  • yes, my OUTSIDE nema 14-50 has a GFCI breaker

    Votes: 3 16%

  • no, my OUTSIDE nema 14-50 does not have a GFCI breaker

    Votes: 4 21%

  • yes, my INSIDE nema 14-50 has a GFCI breaker

    Votes: 2 11%

  • no, my INSIDE nema 14-50 does not have a GFCI breaker

    Votes: 13 68%
  • Total voters
    19
21 - 34 of 34 Posts
#21 · (Edited)
Short answer is that if you are in a locality that requires compliance to the standard 2020 NEC/NFPA codes (210.8/625.54), a 14-50 or other garage or outdoor outlet/receptacle will need a GFCI for an EVSE.

Most local codes use the NEC/NFPA as a reference. There are always exceptions and substitutions, so YMMV. For example, individual states, counties and cities may use older or newer versions of the code, have their own modifications, additions or subtractions, and some may not require the code at all.

In general, outdoor or garage outlets for an EVSE usually require a GFCI since the 2017+ updates (https://www.nfpa.org/assets/files/AboutTheCodes/70/Proposed_TIA_1242_NFPA_70.pdf), either at the breaker or elsewhere in the circuit (for regular 120V outlets). If it's not required, it is still a very wise precaution.

Fixed/hardwired devices do not usually require a GFCI elsewhere in the circuit, though as noted, many hard-wired EVSE have GFCI built-in for obvious personnel safety reasons. If your stationary, hard-wired EVSE has a built-in GFCI, then you do not want a redundant GFCI at the breaker. This may help prevent nuisance trips.
 
#22 ·
In a recent remodel, we had a 14-30 receptacle put in, as 30A was the highest that could be justified in the permit without a major panel update. Our electrician was clueless (or cheap) and didn't put in the required GFCI. I didn't trust him enough to have him come back, so the contractor and I reached an agreement and I just put the GFCI breaker in myself and checked the ground and everything else I could, while I was at it. It's a quick job if you've installed panel breakers before, you just need to make sure you wire the neutral correctly. Plenty of videos out there. Figure $100. Maybe a bit more for 50A or higher, less for 40A or lower.
 
#23 ·
Denofel said:
Good question. If there is one built-in, then it's probably not a good idea to add another one in series.
Click to expand...
Not a problem. The main reason it isn't recommended/allowed by code is there's a certain scenario (mostly in older homes) where it can create a situation where an outlet on a circuit appears to be GFCI protected but isn't.

GFCI breaker should be installed period. Everyone knows "water" but it's not the only scenario it protects against. It also protects against thermal/high resistance leakage which can cause melting of the insulation, recepticale, or even a fire.

"The GFCI will not protect you from line contact hazards (i.e. a person holding two "hot" wires, a hot and a neutral wire in each hand, or contacting an overhead power line). However, it protects against the most common form of electrical shock hazard, the ground-fault. It also protects against fires, overheating, and destruction of wire insulation. "

https://www.osha.gov/etools/constru...ers#:~:text=However, it protects against the,and destruction of wire insulation
 
#24 ·
The problem is not using an EV charger for the car, they are designed to work without GCFI not required, (as they are UL certified have ground interrupt circuitry etc etc, but what if someone attempts to use the plug for a different purpose RV for example........... Hence why I keep the actual plug-in in a locked box. My other juice box is hard wired so not an issue.
 
#25 ·
anav_ds said:
The problem is not using an EV charger for the car, they are designed to work without GCFI not required, (as they are UL certified have ground interrupt circuitry etc etc, but what if someone attempts to use the plug for a different purpose RV for example........... Hence why I keep the actual plug-in in a locked box. My other juice box is hard wired so not an issue.
Click to expand...

GFCI works down circuit, so even if it is built into the plug, it won't prevent melting from a worn plug or outlet, or if something should happen in the wall. That's why it's in the manual. If you hardwire it, not as much of a concern as long as the built-in gfci of the charger is before the flexible cable, not in the middle like some chargers I've seen.

Flexible cables are much more prone to accidental damage, or just fraying from age/use (technical term is called "cycles.")

My father, who's an electrical engineer, told me I should go ahead and do an arcfault (AFCI) as well. The price difference between a standard breaker and a GFCI/AFCI is about $20 vs $50-$100 (depending on brand). If you're paying an electrician, you might as well do "buy once, cry once" since the cost of labor/visit is far more than the $30 to $80 you might save.
 
#26 ·
nickg_6 said:
you should use conduit with THHN wire preferably 6 AWG. it should handle 50A no issues and it would do 60A should you need to move to a hard wired EVSE. Also please keep in mind that length does affect the load. you would need to calculate how long is the run. My advice hire a licensed electrician for peace of mind.
Click to expand...
THANK YOU - You are 100% correct that one must consider the length of the wire and derate accordingly.
 
#27 ·
I have (2) charging outlets in my garage also installed without GFIC. I find it fine. Dedicated circuitry with breakers (in a dedicated sub panel), charging cord with internal thermal protection and the car's charging system probably has some overload circuitry also.
I prefer the less expensive charging cords to the power boxes. they are portable, have the correct wire and cord size, and cost 1/3rd the box pricing.
 
#28 ·
I have a 220VAC outlet in my garage for welding that is 50 amp. It is not GFCI and is a 3 prong 50 amp outlet. The first thing I did when purchasing my 2024 RAV4 Prime was jump on Ebay and purchase a portable EVSE with 40 amp rating. It is a Solo brand with the 14-50 male plug so I could use it at the State Park RV 50 amp stations. I won the auction for it for $74 and it is brand new. I also bought the adapter for it so I could plug the 14-50 into my garage 3 prong. The Solo is adjustable in its amp pull restriction down to 16 amp's, I set it at 32 amps. When I plug it into either my garage or at the State Park RV station it requires me to bypass the GFCI function to get it to function. This is a simple matter done by holding down the reset button for 4 seconds, WORKS PERFECT EVERY TIME. I use the Solo a LOT and it does a perfect job of keeping my RAV's battery charged for daily commuting.
 
#29 · (Edited)
Current electrical code(NEC) calls for a GFCI breaker unless you have a hardwired connection. At least in MA where I am. Also the EVSE has an included GFCI so no harm done. Also you can set your EVSE max amps. The car knows and requests the correct AMP level. My Emporia EVSE is set to 48A as my Tesla will take full ~11kw of power. when i plug my Rav4 it shows 30A no action needed on my side. your EV/ PHEV BMS knows what and when to request a specific AMP load. I have reports and I can see at the top of the charge(near 100%) the car requests about .8Kw or so. So it varies per what the car requests. Back on the outlet please be aware that many of those appliances (like example a dryer plug) are not rated to take a constant demand of power. Like 2-3 hrs non stop. Just be cognizant. Also many of these plugs are not designed to be plugged and unplugged on a regular basis. Again be aware of the limitations.
 
#30 ·
Denofel said:
Do Nema 14-50 outlets in the garage or outside require a GFCI breaker?
I just had two installed by an electrician, one inside the garage, one on the outside wall, both without GFCI. It passes inspection also, no issue noted by the inspector. I just thought about it after, would have asked otherwise.
How is your installation? GFI breaker or not?
Click to expand...
I have 2 14/50 plugs inside.
If I had outside … I would consider the GFIC due to possible weather. Any outlet inside your home above a countertop that could hold or splash water is required to be GFIC rated or tied into one that is on the same circuit. Having 2 or more on the same circuit can be problematic as I am told by my electrical engineer
 
#32 ·
I found that using the 110v charger included with the R4P on a circuit with GFI protection
(breaker not outlet) the breaker was not stable and would trip. Sometimes it would trip and then after reset not trip. Sometimes it would work with out tripping the breaker. When charging the car using the car scheduler sometimes the breaker would trip when the scheduler started charging, sometimes it would work fine. This is in a detached garage. Code required garage outlets to be GFI protected as of around 1985. I have a 240v EVSE with a 14-50 plug on a dedicated 50 amp breaker installed in 2021. I did not protect that circuit with GFI as everything I read said that the EVSE has its own GFI protection and running it on an already protected circuit could cause nuisance tripping. I know that new code requires GFI protection so I guess now the only way around issues is to hard wire the EVSE.
 
#34 ·
21 - 34 of 34 Posts
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