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Bypass Coolant Valve write up

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#41 ·
Skinny guy said:
Look at example #2

Click to expand...
This you tube does not HELP! Which connector is it in the you tube? I wish people would not post things unless it is helpful and answers the question. Here is the direct answer. With a mirror and light showing the Back of the connector you will see 1/2 down on the connector and in the MIDDLE of the connector a tab to be push in and lift the connector up. You must note from what you see in the mirror you have to push in the middle of the connector, since the tab does not go completely across the connector. I do not have a picture to help. Study the view in the mirror image showing the backside of the connector.
 
#43 ·
matthewlookingbill19 said:
🚨🚨COOLANT BYLASS VALVE WRITE UP🚨🚨

I've never done one for these write ups so bear with me. But there's just not much info on this so figured I would try and help out.

My wife's car had a Engine Maintenance Required warning pop up (NOT MAINTENANCE REQUIRED, BIG DIFFERENCE) car is a 2020 Rav4 with 34,000 miles.

After research I figured it was the coolant bypass valve. Seems to be pretty common. I did not take it to a dealership to have diagnosed as they wanted $79.99 just to scan the car. No thank you. Also Dealership was charging $153 just for the part. I took my chances and ordered the part on Amazon for $40, with a 20% discount came out to $33 total shipped. That's with the valve and hoses.

Now mind you, I'm no mechanic but can do minor things. This Job can be done with little to no experience and save you about $800-$900.

This is how I did the job.

Tools i used. Vice grip Pliers, 3/8 Rachet with 3 inch extension, 10 MM socket and 12 MM socket, pick tool for clips, jack, one jack stand, and whatever you use for removal of tire. I used 1/2 impact wrench with 21MM socket. Two inch mirror with flexible cable ($6.99 at harbor freight) so u can see blind spots.

Step 1- remove valve sensor. Use mirror and pick tool.

Step 2 - use pick tool to carefully remove white clamp on heater core hose attached to VALVE. That clamp does not come all the way out. Just back it off enough to remove heater core hose. Push hose out of the way for remainder of job.

Step 3 - behind the valve at the bottom you will find a 12mm bolt that hold the blue clip heater core hose in place. Must loosen this enough to move right side heater core hose adaptor to gain access to the 12mm bolt that's attached to the bypass valve. (YOU DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE THE HEATER CORE HOSE WITH THE BLUE CLIP OR TAKE BOLT FROM BOTTOM ALL THE WAY OUT. JUST LOOSEN AND IT WILL GIVE U ENOUGH ROOM TO GET BYPASS VALVE BOLT OUT!!

Step 5 - remove 12mm bolt securing the bypass valve. Set bolt aside.

Step 6 - With 10MM socket remove bracket holding the O2 sensor wire. This is accessed easily behind motor and i have picture of it. This will help get to hose clamp that is hidden behind motor. Also reference picture please. Set bracket aside.

Step 7 - With Vice Grip pliers remove hose clamp behind motor. Probably toughest part of job. But if I can do it anyone can. You will lose some coolant here maybe half gallon if that. Place bucket on floor to catch what u can.

Step 8- there will be a plastic hose clamp holding two hoses on the bottom hose. Just unsnap the hoses.

Step 9 - jack car enough to remove driver front tire. (Some turn wheel all the way right to gain access. I preferred just removing tire) some folks have taken the battery out, battery tray out, air box out to gain access to bottom hose. Thats more work in my opinion.

Step 10 - laying down on floor you will see bottom hose. Very easy to get to. But my clamp was turned wrong way. If that's the case. Just twist to access then with Vice grips take clamp off and pull hose off. Some coolant leaks here to. Not much

Okay the hard part Is done. Now your bypass valve is off. Here's how I put it on.

Step 1 from top of engine route the bottom hose down to fender well. Put clamp on bottom hose and attach. Put tire back on and jack car back donw.

Step 2 - put hose on back of engine and hose clamp

Step 3 - put 12mm bolt back in and bolt down bypass valve

Step 4 - tighten bottom 12mm bolt that you loosed earlier

Step 5 - snap valve sensor back on

Step 6 - put 10MM bolt back on holding o2 sensor wire bracket.

Step 7 - but all plastic clips back on bottom hose.

Step 8 - top of coolant and use a bleeder kit like shown in picture. YOU MUST BLEED SYSTEM TO BURP ALL THE AIR OUT. HERES HOW

Step 1 - top off coolant and fill funnel about half way. With other person (I used my wife) turn car on with NO AC OR HEATER ON DO NOT NEED TO DO THAT WITH THESE CARS. I learned that from car care nut on YouTube. Turn car on rev to about 2000 rpm and hold steady. Watch your radiator fan. Once it kicks on and off TWO TIMES you are done. Takes about a good 10-15 minutes for this. While this is happening you will see a ton of air bubbles coming out of radiator.

Once this is done your problem is over with and you saved a bunch of money.

I hope this helps someone. Again I've never done a write up. View attachment 202202 View attachment 202203 View attachment 202204 View attachment 202205 View attachment 202206 View attachment 202207 View attachment 202203
Click to expand...
matthewlookingbill19 said:
🚨🚨COOLANT BYLASS VALVE WRITE UP🚨🚨

I've never done one for these write ups so bear with me. But there's just not much info on this so figured I would try and help out.

My wife's car had a Engine Maintenance Required warning pop up (NOT MAINTENANCE REQUIRED, BIG DIFFERENCE) car is a 2020 Rav4 with 34,000 miles.

After research I figured it was the coolant bypass valve. Seems to be pretty common. I did not take it to a dealership to have diagnosed as they wanted $79.99 just to scan the car. No thank you. Also Dealership was charging $153 just for the part. I took my chances and ordered the part on Amazon for $40, with a 20% discount came out to $33 total shipped. That's with the valve and hoses.

Now mind you, I'm no mechanic but can do minor things. This Job can be done with little to no experience and save you about $800-$900.

This is how I did the job.

Tools i used. Vice grip Pliers, 3/8 Rachet with 3 inch extension, 10 MM socket and 12 MM socket, pick tool for clips, jack, one jack stand, and whatever you use for removal of tire. I used 1/2 impact wrench with 21MM socket. Two inch mirror with flexible cable ($6.99 at harbor freight) so u can see blind spots.

Step 1- remove valve sensor. Use mirror and pick tool.

Step 2 - use pick tool to carefully remove white clamp on heater core hose attached to VALVE. That clamp does not come all the way out. Just back it off enough to remove heater core hose. Push hose out of the way for remainder of job.

Step 3 - behind the valve at the bottom you will find a 12mm bolt that hold the blue clip heater core hose in place. Must loosen this enough to move right side heater core hose adaptor to gain access to the 12mm bolt that's attached to the bypass valve. (YOU DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE THE HEATER CORE HOSE WITH THE BLUE CLIP OR TAKE BOLT FROM BOTTOM ALL THE WAY OUT. JUST LOOSEN AND IT WILL GIVE U ENOUGH ROOM TO GET BYPASS VALVE BOLT OUT!!

Step 5 - remove 12mm bolt securing the bypass valve. Set bolt aside.

Step 6 - With 10MM socket remove bracket holding the O2 sensor wire. This is accessed easily behind motor and i have picture of it. This will help get to hose clamp that is hidden behind motor. Also reference picture please. Set bracket aside.

Step 7 - With Vice Grip pliers remove hose clamp behind motor. Probably toughest part of job. But if I can do it anyone can. You will lose some coolant here maybe half gallon if that. Place bucket on floor to catch what u can.

Step 8- there will be a plastic hose clamp holding two hoses on the bottom hose. Just unsnap the hoses.

Step 9 - jack car enough to remove driver front tire. (Some turn wheel all the way right to gain access. I preferred just removing tire) some folks have taken the battery out, battery tray out, air box out to gain access to bottom hose. Thats more work in my opinion.

Step 10 - laying down on floor you will see bottom hose. Very easy to get to. But my clamp was turned wrong way. If that's the case. Just twist to access then with Vice grips take clamp off and pull hose off. Some coolant leaks here to. Not much

Okay the hard part Is done. Now your bypass valve is off. Here's how I put it on.

Step 1 from top of engine route the bottom hose down to fender well. Put clamp on bottom hose and attach. Put tire back on and jack car back donw.

Step 2 - put hose on back of engine and hose clamp

Step 3 - put 12mm bolt back in and bolt down bypass valve

Step 4 - tighten bottom 12mm bolt that you loosed earlier

Step 5 - snap valve sensor back on

Step 6 - put 10MM bolt back on holding o2 sensor wire bracket.

Step 7 - but all plastic clips back on bottom hose.

Step 8 - top of coolant and use a bleeder kit like shown in picture. YOU MUST BLEED SYSTEM TO BURP ALL THE AIR OUT. HERES HOW

Step 1 - top off coolant and fill funnel about half way. With other person (I used my wife) turn car on with NO AC OR HEATER ON DO NOT NEED TO DO THAT WITH THESE CARS. I learned that from car care nut on YouTube. Turn car on rev to about 2000 rpm and hold steady. Watch your radiator fan. Once it kicks on and off TWO TIMES you are done. Takes about a good 10-15 minutes for this. While this is happening you will see a ton of air bubbles coming out of radiator.

Once this is done your problem is over with and you saved a bunch of money.

I hope this helps someone. Again I've never done a write up. View attachment 202202 View attachment 202203 View attachment 202204 View attachment 202205 View attachment 202206 View attachment 202207 View attachment 202203
Click to expand...
? I
Skinny guy said:
The second one. The locking tab can be in different position, yes. However it can give you idea what kind connector it is.
Cheers 🍻
Click to expand...
No, it is not the second one in the you tube! Follow what I said, and you will be able to remove the connector.
 
#44 ·
matthewlookingbill19 said:
🚨🚨COOLANT BYLASS VALVE WRITE UP🚨🚨

I've never done one for these write ups so bear with me. But there's just not much info on this so figured I would try and help out.

My wife's car had a Engine Maintenance Required warning pop up (NOT MAINTENANCE REQUIRED, BIG DIFFERENCE) car is a 2020 Rav4 with 34,000 miles.

After research I figured it was the coolant bypass valve. Seems to be pretty common. I did not take it to a dealership to have diagnosed as they wanted $79.99 just to scan the car. No thank you. Also Dealership was charging $153 just for the part. I took my chances and ordered the part on Amazon for $40, with a 20% discount came out to $33 total shipped. That's with the valve and hoses.

Now mind you, I'm no mechanic but can do minor things. This Job can be done with little to no experience and save you about $800-$900.

This is how I did the job.

Tools i used. Vice grip Pliers, 3/8 Rachet with 3 inch extension, 10 MM socket and 12 MM socket, pick tool for clips, jack, one jack stand, and whatever you use for removal of tire. I used 1/2 impact wrench with 21MM socket. Two inch mirror with flexible cable ($6.99 at harbor freight) so u can see blind spots.

Step 1- remove valve sensor. Use mirror and pick tool.

Step 2 - use pick tool to carefully remove white clamp on heater core hose attached to VALVE. That clamp does not come all the way out. Just back it off enough to remove heater core hose. Push hose out of the way for remainder of job.

Step 3 - behind the valve at the bottom you will find a 12mm bolt that hold the blue clip heater core hose in place. Must loosen this enough to move right side heater core hose adaptor to gain access to the 12mm bolt that's attached to the bypass valve. (YOU DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE THE HEATER CORE HOSE WITH THE BLUE CLIP OR TAKE BOLT FROM BOTTOM ALL THE WAY OUT. JUST LOOSEN AND IT WILL GIVE U ENOUGH ROOM TO GET BYPASS VALVE BOLT OUT!!

Step 5 - remove 12mm bolt securing the bypass valve. Set bolt aside.

Step 6 - With 10MM socket remove bracket holding the O2 sensor wire. This is accessed easily behind motor and i have picture of it. This will help get to hose clamp that is hidden behind motor. Also reference picture please. Set bracket aside.

Step 7 - With Vice Grip pliers remove hose clamp behind motor. Probably toughest part of job. But if I can do it anyone can. You will lose some coolant here maybe half gallon if that. Place bucket on floor to catch what u can.

Step 8- there will be a plastic hose clamp holding two hoses on the bottom hose. Just unsnap the hoses.

Step 9 - jack car enough to remove driver front tire. (Some turn wheel all the way right to gain access. I preferred just removing tire) some folks have taken the battery out, battery tray out, air box out to gain access to bottom hose. Thats more work in my opinion.

Step 10 - laying down on floor you will see bottom hose. Very easy to get to. But my clamp was turned wrong way. If that's the case. Just twist to access then with Vice grips take clamp off and pull hose off. Some coolant leaks here to. Not much

Okay the hard part Is done. Now your bypass valve is off. Here's how I put it on.

Step 1 from top of engine route the bottom hose down to fender well. Put clamp on bottom hose and attach. Put tire back on and jack car back donw.

Step 2 - put hose on back of engine and hose clamp

Step 3 - put 12mm bolt back in and bolt down bypass valve

Step 4 - tighten bottom 12mm bolt that you loosed earlier

Step 5 - snap valve sensor back on

Step 6 - put 10MM bolt back on holding o2 sensor wire bracket.

Step 7 - but all plastic clips back on bottom hose.

Step 8 - top of coolant and use a bleeder kit like shown in picture. YOU MUST BLEED SYSTEM TO BURP ALL THE AIR OUT. HERES HOW

Step 1 - top off coolant and fill funnel about half way. With other person (I used my wife) turn car on with NO AC OR HEATER ON DO NOT NEED TO DO THAT WITH THESE CARS. I learned that from car care nut on YouTube. Turn car on rev to about 2000 rpm and hold steady. Watch your radiator fan. Once it kicks on and off TWO TIMES you are done. Takes about a good 10-15 minutes for this. While this is happening you will see a ton of air bubbles coming out of radiator.

Once this is done your problem is over with and you saved a bunch of money.

I hope this helps someone. Again I've never done a write up. View attachment 202202 View attachment 202203 View attachment 202204 View attachment 202205 View attachment 202206 View attachment 202207 View attachment 202203
Click to expand...
? In #7 you allowed about 1/2 gallon of coolant to go where? I did not see any steps to removing the black plastic engine cover or covers to catch coolant, therefore the coolant will go in the engine cover(s) and onto the floor. In # 10 you are going to be laying in the coolant and when you remove the hose it will go all over your face. Anyone please correct my understanding
 
#45 ·
Topaz said:
? In #7 you allowed about 1/2 gallon of coolant to go where? I did not see any steps to removing the black plastic engine cover or covers to catch coolant, therefore the coolant will go in the engine cover(s) and onto the floor. In # 10 you are going to be laying in the coolant and when you remove the hose it will go all over your face. Anyone please correct my understanding
Click to expand...
I'm sure they just drain some out of the radiator. Or drain it all and replace it with new. You're always going to spill some, regardless. Some more than others. Just take a hose after you're done and rinse the surrounding area off. Not sure why you would think that you would have to lay on the floor? The lowest point in the repair process is in the drivers side wheel well. I haven't done one personally, but I do understand it well should I have to make the repair. The hardest part I would think is removing that hose clamp in the second picture. I'm curious as to how long the parts people are getting off of Amazon are going to last. I would think Chinese knockoffs would be inferior to an OEM part. We shall see.

The write up IMO is very thorough and straight forward.
 
#46 ·
SLS Artemis said:
I'm sure they just drain some out of the radiator. Or drain it all and replace it with new. You're always going to spill some, regardless. Some more than others. Just take a hose after you're done and rinse the surrounding area off. Not sure why you would think that you would have to lay on the floor? The lowest point in the repair process is in the drivers side wheel well. I haven't done one personally, but I do understand it well should I have to make the repair. The hardest part I would think is removing that hose clamp in the second picture. I'm curious as to how long the parts people are getting off of Amazon are going to last. I would think Chinese knockoffs would be inferior to an OEM part. We shall see.

The write up IMO is very thorough and straight forward.
Click to expand...
#10 states, "Step 10 - laying down on floor you will see bottom hose. Very easy to get to. But my clamp was turned wrong way. If that's the case. Just twist to access then with Vice grips take clamp off and pull hose off. Some coolant leaks here to. Not much." They are laying down on the floor.
 
#47 ·
Topaz said:
#10 states, "Step 10 - laying down on floor you will see bottom hose. Very easy to get to. But my clamp was turned wrong way. If that's the case. Just twist to access then with Vice grips take clamp off and pull hose off. Some coolant leaks here to. Not much." They are laying down on the floor.
Click to expand...
I see that, but in his picture it appears to me that he isn't laying on the ground. I would suspect that he is reaching through the wheel well with the wheel removed. I still don't see a reason to lay on the ground, unless you're not removing the wheel. Which to me seems like you're making the job harder than it needs to be by not doing so. Maybe he is trying to make it easier for people to find that hose with his description? I can see where the way he explains it can be confusing. You can clearly see the outline of the wheel well in his picture. I attached a screen shot.

Anytime you're dealing with a hose that has coolant in it, there is always a chance that some is going to spill out. No matter how much you drained out initially. Just have a catch pan close by.
 

Attachments

#48 ·
All of the electrical connectors are rear-pinch types. You pinch end of connector near wires. Sometimes they seem to be stuck, but that's not the case, you have to push down on connector and the do a pinch and remove.

One of those telescoping mirrors is a must have for DIY work, so you can inspect an item before trying to remove it.
 
#49 ·
SLS Artemis said:
I'm sure they just drain some out of the radiator. Or drain it all and replace it with new. You're always going to spill some, regardless. Some more than others. Just take a hose after you're done and rinse the surrounding area off. Not sure why you would think that you would have to lay on the floor? The lowest point in the repair process is in the drivers side wheel well. I haven't done one personally, but I do understand it well should I have to make the repair. The hardest part I would think is removing that hose clamp in the second picture. I'm curious as to how long the parts people are getting off of Amazon are going to last. I would think Chinese knockoffs would be inferior to an OEM part. We shall see.

The write up IMO is very thorough and straight forward.
Click to expand...
Defintely needs a rinsing, otherwise it smells like antifreeze for a long time.

The valve is a simply disc valve inside an electro-magnet body. I suspect the non-OEM will last longer given the AISIN part is faulty. Plus, we buy non-OEM parts all the time and they work as good or better than OEM. ;)
 
#51 ·
SLS Artemis said:
I see that, but in his picture it appears to me that he isn't laying on the ground. I would suspect that he is reaching through the wheel well with the wheel removed. I still don't see a reason to lay on the ground, unless you're not removing the wheel. Which to me seems like you're making the job harder than it needs to be by not doing so. Maybe he is trying to make it easier for people to find that hose with his description? I can see where the way he explains it can be confusing. You can clearly see the outline of the wheel well in his picture. I attached a screen shot.

Anytime you're dealing with a hose that has coolant in it, there is always a chance that some is going to spill out. No matter how much you drained out initially. Just have a catch pan close by.
Click to expand...
Thanks!!
 
#55 ·
Great write up, I see this coming in handy next weekend. I was following the Chilton service manual troubleshooting and my connector failed the first test. I was getting 24v when going pin to ground instead of the 11-14v it calls for. It then says "REPAIR OR REPLACE HARNESS OR CONNECTOR (EFI-MAIN NO. 1 RELAY - FLOW SHUTTING VALVE (FOR HEATER CONTROL))" My question: Where do I find one of these? I still don't know exactly what it is called. Any insight to the swapping of the wire harness/connector would be a great help!
 
#56 ·
The connector failed a test? Can you list the test, or post pic of the service guide page that describes it.

Toyota has a list of connectors, it will be of the "repair" type where the pins are already on wires and you need to splice the wires to the OEM harness.

It's not likely the connector is bad.

The relay is in a power distribution "box". I don't think there's anything to replace there, other than wires that have pins that snap into the "box".
 
#57 ·
Rav4-lim said:
Toyota has a list of connectors, it will be of the "repair" type where the pins are already on wires and you need to splice the wires to the OEM harness.
Click to expand...
You have to buy the connector housing separate from the repair wires with pins attached. Here is the manual that shows most of the connectors used on the RAV4 and how to "repair" them: RAV4 Wiring harness repair manual
 
#58 ·
Have noticed my A/C blowing colder air and working slightly faster than before after replacing the bypass valve, and I keep CC on Eco mode. Wonder if mine was starting to fail or is just inferior to the Chinese valve.
 
#60 · (Edited)
Paul894 said:
Have noticed my A/C blowing colder air and working slightly faster than before after replacing the bypass valve, and I keep CC on Eco mode. Wonder if mine was starting to fail or is just inferior to the Chinese valve.
Click to expand...
There still is a diverter for mixing air to temp. If you set AC to max cold you should get no hot core air in the mix, even with a failed valve. But, with a failed valve the heater core remains hot, so you have heat (hot core) in the cabin when you really don't need it there when using AC for cold air. It's a smart design to keep hot coolant out of the cabin when you only need cold air.
 
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