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Solved: CV joint fell out, now what?

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rightfoot

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
I was trying to remove the strut on a 2014 rav4 4cyl but the stabilizer bar was constantly under pressure.
I watched several videos and in each video, the person simply removed the nut and let the rod out but not in my case.

Anyhow, things went south and the rotor fell top forward which caused the axle to come out.
After removing the strut, I found I could pop the axle back in but I'm not sure the boot will still work.

Two questions.
1: Why is that bar under so much pressure on my car when watching videos seems to show there should not be any.

2: Is there any locking pin or something on the axle or the boot that I need to replace since it got pulled out abruptly?

Image
 
#2 ·
If the opposite side wheel isn’t raised off the ground, the stabilizer link will be under tremendous pressure. That’s what it’s designed to do.

as far as the axle, if the boot isn’t torn, it should be fine.
Keep in mind the inner joint is a “tri-pod” style and if it’s extended to far, the roller assembly may be pulled out of the cup portion of the inner joint.

If that doesn’t seat properly, you’ll have to pull on the axle and rotate it slightly while holding the inner cup, then it should pop back in.
 
#3 ·
rightfoot said:
Why is that bar under so much pressure on my car when watching videos seems to show there should not be any.
Click to expand...
I think I usually put a jack under there when working on the ground.
 
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#5 ·
rightfoot said:
2: Is there any locking pin or something on the axle or the boot that I need to replace since it got pulled out abruptly?
Click to expand...
There is usually a C ring on the inner edge of the spines. That pops into a grove inside the transaxle. On occasion, I have had a bear of a time removing the axle to replace CV joints; have to literally pry the axles out so the C ring releases. Other times, it releases with just a tug.

If the boot is not torn, no need to replace it, as others have said.
 
#6 ·
rightfoot said:
Oh darn, I had read that somewhere.
So I guess I lift the car up so the wheel is off the ground then lift the wheel up a little, is that correct?
Click to expand...
The height and wheel aren't a problem when everything's together. You just lightly support it with the jack before you unbolt things. Looks like you have the hanger and screwdriver technique down otherwise.
 
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Discussion starter · #7 ·
It's all back together but we've spent three hours trying to get the boot back on.
There is a locking ring on there that we simply cannot get back onto the shaft.
Not sure if we should cut it and probably need a special tool to install a new ring or perhaps there is a tool that aligns things so we can press the boot back on.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Keep in mind the inner joint is a “tri-pod” style and if it’s extended to far, the roller assembly may be pulled
out of the cup portion of the inner joint.
Click to expand...
Yes, I can see that because the joint got pulled out. Interesting setup.

If that doesn’t seat properly, you’ll have to pull on the axle and rotate it slightly while holding the inner cup,
then it should pop back in.
Click to expand...
How can I know when the CV joint is correctly inserted all the way?
The only thing I can go by right now is that when I turn on the rotor, the shaft turns also but I can't cannot tell if it's all the way in. The boot not going in doesn't help me to get a sense of the CV join being all the way in or not.

I imagine that so long as it turns once I have the two main bolts back in that it would imply it's line up and in correctly otherwise would not turn. I'm, not sure of this.

Either way, I think I have to cut the locking strap to get the boot back on and put a new strap on. Hopefully, this is an auto parts store solution and not something specialized.
 
#9 ·
Discussion starter · #10 ·
I certainly don't want to do a temp fix while I've got this all apart :).
Local auto store has the clamps and the tool so I'll go get that later today.
Just hoping to get some input on how to know when the joint is back in correctly before I do that.
 
#12 ·
You're probably going to have to take it all apart to get the clamp back on the boot. There is no way you're going to fit the tool to tighten the band in that confined space. There are a couple variations of the band tool depending on what style of band you're using.
 
#14 ·
rightfoot said:
Turns out, these work much better than the tool you can buy for those straps.
I got it all back together and I thank you all for the input. Your help was really appreciated during this.
View attachment 210364
Click to expand...
The tool was used for boot banding removal?
 
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#15 ·
Discussion starter · #16 ·
Correct, the tool could break the band but you'd have to be able to clamp it crazy tight and it's not possible.
The nail pulling tool worked perfectly compared to the stupid tool Auto Zone sold me for these bands.The AZ one just slipped off the band while the cutters didn't so long as I bent the band just slightly before installing it.

All good, all done. Thanks for all the help!
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
After fixing the above and putting new struts in at the same time, I now get the AWD warning light.
Is this something that needs to be reset after doing something like this? There were no sensors to remove or anything. I did replace the MAF sensor, plugs, and oxygen sensors at the same time.
 
#18 ·
rightfoot said:
After fixing the above and putting new struts in at the same time, I now get the AWD warning light.
Is this something that needs to be reset after doing something like this? There were no sensors to remove or anything. I did replace the MAF sensor, plugs, and oxygen sensors at the same time.
Click to expand...
Could the ABS sensor be broken after the axle fell out???
 
#20 ·
rightfoot said:
After fixing the above and putting new struts in at the same time, I now get the AWD warning light.
Is this something that needs to be reset after doing something like this? There were no sensors to remove or anything. I did replace the MAF sensor, plugs, and oxygen sensors at the same time.
Click to expand...
Did you replace them with OEM parts when it come to replacing the plugs and sensors? I have had that warning for simply having a loose gas cap.
 
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