header

awdblazer · Oct 20, 2008

so installing this header is just a plug and play basically?
Celica 86-89 2.0L/3SFE Pace Setter Part Number 70-1155
same size as the stock manifold?
thanks

mensajero · Oct 20, 2008

You might find a little unconfterable regarding the O2 sensor 1. The second one install it before the Catalytic Converter. The rest is very easy. I've install three of these.

Check here
http://rav4world.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=17401

anotherdave · Oct 20, 2008

Not completely plug n play, bolting to the engine block is a perfect fit, just need to bend part of the radiator fan housing since the header comes further out from the block than the stock manifold. And the header will NOT bolt directly up to your stock exhaust system. The output of the header is a 2.5" opening, your stock exhaust is 1.75" or 2" I think... cant remember. The header comes with a bolt on reducer to go from 2.5" to 2" gaskets are included for the reducer, O2 sensor, and the header itself, but you can normally use the factory metal gasket that is still on the block. No bolts/nuts are included with the header. The first O2 sensor will need to be extended about 8" The rear (post cat) sensor I extended 6 feet, may have been overkill but I shall see once the Rav can get into the exhaust shop. On a side note, the brace for the manifold cat didn't use the expected 14mm bolts as with mos of the bolts I encountered... It was a 9/16" bolt :? I was kind of surprised to find a standard bolt on an otherwise metric car...

mensajero · Oct 26, 2008

:lol: How many Headers have you installed in your life anotherdave? I've installed about twelve in my life. Including Rotary engines. The RAV4 header (which I've installed three) is the closes you will ever get to plug and play. ALL headers always have a slight fitting problem. :lol:

In my brothers Camaro, we had to remove one engine mount to be able to install the Hooker header and tighten the bolts. In a 340 Dodge Dart Swinger, we had a two piece side Doug header. (for you old guys, you know what I mean) . On aZ28 we had a lot of problems installed a set of Hooker headers. Compared with the previous installation mentioned, the RAV4 its a piece of cake. :lol:

The power and fuel economy is worth the hassle. :wink:

anotherdave · Oct 26, 2008

I'm not too much of a car guy, computers are more my thing. I guess plug and play is a little different on cars than with computers. And I agree it will be worth the hassle if I can get anywhere close to what I have heard on the forum

Also, would you recommend making up a heat shield of some sort for the oil filter?

mensajero · Oct 27, 2008

No, not at all. Get a wrench like this one at Pep Boys (if you do your own oil change) to remove your oil filter. The space between the oil filter and the header is minimum. You can try to remove with your hand, but you'll have to be quite strong. Get a wrench and you won't have any problem. To install it you can use hand tight. Oh, BTW, apply a little oil on the filter rubber ring. It will help sealing the oil filter.

anotherdave · Oct 27, 2008

Yes, I do my own oil changes. I was always taught that you never crank the oil filter on as tight as you can with a wrench. Just makes it harder to get off. Just wasnt sure about whether or not a heat shield or reflective tape on the filter would be a good idea being as it is so close to the header and the original heat shield is gone.

Corrupt_File · Oct 27, 2008

If you do heat wrap on your header (which you should do anyways), it will be cooler than the stock setup. And the wrench is used because you cant get your hands in there (its tight). the wrench isn't a bad idea for the stock setup either, as I have burned myself many times.

Oh, and my girlfriends car is a 92 civic. Anyone who has changed a civic oil filter will understand my logic on wanting one of these wrenches.

anotherdave · Oct 27, 2008

I never have trouble with the filters, as my hands fit in there easily with the stock setup and its even easier now without the factory manifold there

mensajero · Oct 27, 2008

anotherdave said:
Yes, I do my own oil changes. I was always taught that you never crank the oil filter on as tight as you can with a wrench. Just makes it harder to get off. Just wasn't sure about whether or not a heat shield or reflective tape on the filter would be a good idea being as it is so close to the header and the original heat shield is gone.

No, I NEVER crank the filter ON. I just use my hand to adjust it. The filter is not forever you know. To remove it is when I use to crank it.

anotherdave · Oct 28, 2008

Header is on, exhaust is fully done and I am happy

Definately has more pickup than before. Internal sound is not too much different from stock, about the same volume and a noticably deeper tone to it. Havent been able to listen to it from the outside or take pix/sound yet as it is very rainy and windy. Will be posting them as soon as the weather permits

mensajero · Oct 28, 2008

:thumbs_up: Outstanding anotherdave

anotherdave · Oct 30, 2008

Maybe I am missing something, but since the exhaust got done my clutch no longer "shudders" :? I would think after freeing up more torque, the shuddering would get worse.

anotherdave · Oct 31, 2008

Picture Time! Everything is 2 inch in and out except the tip. Everything is stainless steel except the header. Sound should be along next week since the video camera's battery is dead and charger is missing

Sounds better after running for a few days... I am guessing there was some "burn in" time for everything to sound like it will hopefully for the rest of the Rav's life

The primary sensor was extended about 8 inches

I used the PaceSetter MetalCore HiFlow Catalytic Converter

Used about 6 feet for each wire on the sensor

I used a MagnaFlow #10434 for the resonator here - 4" dia and 22" long for the case

MagnaFlow XL 3 Chamber #13254 - 9" x 4" x 18"

mensajero · Nov 2, 2008

Looks Great man. :thumbs_up: :thumbs_up: Post a clip so we can listen to its sound.

anotherdave · Nov 3, 2008

Finally have the audio

Sounds too raspy/ricey on the high end for my liking, any suggestions would be appreciated to make it sound more like a Chevy small block 350 with dual glasspacks :twisted:
<object width="425" height="350"> <param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/D_hlyNDn6Hs"> </param> <embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/D_hlyNDn6Hs" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="425" height="350"> </embed> </object>
I'm still running with the stock intake for now until I can come up with a CAI setup that I can call my own :wink: And yes, I did hit the red line, gas mileage is up noticably. Used to get 40 miles on the top 1/4 of the tank, I'm now at 65 miles and still havent burned off the top quarter of the gauge.

Corrupt_File · Nov 4, 2008

Its a 2.0L 4 cylinder japanese engine, no exhaust system will make it sound like a 350.

Sounds good though.

anotherdave · Nov 4, 2008

Driving it down to the exhaust shop with just the header it sounded like an old radial airplane engine :shock:

gscalifornia · Nov 5, 2008

I wonder what it would sound like without the resonator?

Waaay back when, I installed a Cherry Bomb glass pack muffler on a 4 cyl Ford Fiesta, it ALMOST made it sound like a V8

anotherdave · Nov 5, 2008

When I was growing up, we had an '86 Suburban with the 350, dual exhaust with glasspacks. Sounded VERY nice and you could hear it comin from about 1/4 mile out

Best car we ever had, problem was when the engine went the rebuilt engine only ran on premium and had a 40 gallon tank :egad: Not to mention the parents have heavy feet :lol:

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