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cococola

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Any suggestions on the best way to mount an amp underneath the driver or passenger seat?

I have a 3rd row option so I really dont have a lot of space underneath the cargo area and I want to avoid the hassle of running wires all the way to the back as well.

Thanks...
 
My amp was way too big and I wanted to move the subs between cars (when I buy another one) so I opted to mount the amp to the sub box and use quick plug wires to plug and unplug it.

However to install an amp under your seat, you will need to size the amp to make sure it fits. Then you should unbolt your seat (be very careful with the power wires) and mount the amp (after you remove the decorative sides). You can secure the amp using industrial strips of velcro (you only need the plastic hook side). Make sure to keep the amp controls accessible. Cut a slit or use an existing hole in the carpet to run the wires under and along the kick plate. Use the same hole and run the speaker wire to the back along the carpet. I also suggest putting it under the kick plate. Then just zip tie it down the wires and hook them so they don't move around. Then just add the cage or amp side back on to prevent idiots from kicking the wires and setting.
 
I thought about doing under seat, but because of the risk of someone hitting it with their feet, or moisture/water being a factor I didn't want to risk it.

You may have better luck if you install your amp behind the lower glove box. Thats where I ended up installing my Satellite receiver unit, and an amplifier would probably fit up behind there nicely as well.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Thank you both for your reply! Zeoth, it's possible for me to slide in that amp w/ the industrial velcro right w/o removing the seat? I am sounding lazy but really, I want to do things with shortcuts because with my new 2 little ones, I just dont have the time I used to.
 
cococola said:
Thank you both for your reply! Zeoth, it's possible for me to slide in that amp w/ the industrial velcro right w/o removing the seat? I am sounding lazy but really, I want to do things with shortcuts because with my new 2 little ones, I just dont have the time I used to.
Well you always could. You just need to decide for yourself if you have enough room. Generally it's very hard because some of the smaller amps tend to have wires on both ends of the amp. You will need to attach the wires and "run them" before you slide the amp in. As you slide the amp in you need to pull the wires so they don't bunch up.
 
cococola said:
Any suggestions on the best way to mount an amp underneath the driver or passenger seat?

I have a 3rd row option so I really dont have a lot of space underneath the cargo area and I want to avoid the hassle of running wires all the way to the back as well.

Thanks...
Clarion XR2410, 2nd Row Right Side, Slid out
<table><tr><td></td></tr><tr><td>From Rav4 Jan 2011</td></tr></table>

Clarion XR2410, 2nd Row Right Side, Slid In
<table><tr><td></td></tr><tr><td>From Rav4 Jan 2011</td></tr></table>

Its held in place by cable ties, which I cut to slide In/out until I get around to sound deadening the rear and properly screwing it down. I did not have to remove the seat to slide it in or out, but did have to angle it and then push up on the bar that slides the rear seat forward/back. The rear seat comes down and the bottom of the seat "gently" sits on top of it just a bit.
 
However to install an amp under your seat, you will need to size the amp to make sure it fits. Then you should unbolt your seat (be very careful with the power wires) and mount the amp (after you remove the decorative sides). You can secure the amp using industrial strips of velcro (you only need the plastic hook side).
Don't use velcro. Amps gets hot, especially in the Summer, thus they will eventually cause the velcro's adhesive backing to turn to putty, loosening the amp from where it was & leaving the amp's backside and the carpet a gummy mess.

Use wire (zip) ties to secure amps & processors to the carpet. Only two tiny holes (side by side) per mounting hole are needed. Use a straight mechanics pick to make the two holes by bunching up the carpet. If no pick is available, use an Xacto blade or razor blade. Slip the wire tie through one hole in the carpet, then through the other hole, then through an amp mounting hole.

I have two processors secured under my back seat (better place to mount an amp than under the front seats because of good airflow and available space) using wire (zip) ties.
 
Clarion XR2410, 2nd Row Right Side, Slid out
<table><tr><td></td></tr><tr><td>From Rav4 Jan 2011</td></tr></table>

Clarion XR2410, 2nd Row Right Side, Slid In
<table><tr><td></td></tr><tr><td>From Rav4 Jan 2011</td></tr></table>

Its held in place by cable ties
Exactly what I just referred to. Smart man.
 
Could you share with me where you found a good bolt for the ground connection under that seat?
If you mount it under the front seat (try to mount it under the back seat if possible) I would avoid using a bolt that that holds the seat down. You want as many bolt threads going into the bolt hole as Toyota designed. Call me crazy, but I like my seats to stay secured in a wreck.

If no other bolt is available, there should be a bolt in the kick panel area that you can use. Make sure to scrape off (best to use a wire brush) any paint under the bolt head to achieve maximum ground connection. Remember, the ground connection is THE most important connection in any DC-powered circuit.
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Wow, thanks for the wealth of info. i was actually intending on using a bolt that holds the seat down but it is nearly impossible to remove. Toyota did a great job fastening it down and i suspect there's nut behind that bolt. I was also planning on using Velcro but you also made an excellent point about heat and the gooey adhesive. I may just have to relocate it to the 2nd row but now I'll have to lengthen the cables that run from the radio so the project slowly rolls foward.
 
Wow, thanks for the wealth of info. i was actually intending on using a bolt that holds the seat down but it is nearly impossible to remove. Toyota did a great job fastening it down and i suspect there's nut behind that bolt. I was also planning on using Velcro but you also made an excellent point about heat and the gooey adhesive. I may just have to relocate it to the 2nd row but now I'll have to lengthen the cables that run from the radio so the project slowly rolls foward.
There is some confusion here. My amp is not located in the front. My amp is located underneath the 2nd row seats, on the passenger side, underneath the "40" split of the 2nd row. Initially I attached my ground to one of the bolts under the seats. I didn't bother to wire brush it. The bolt I used was the easiest one to access or the closest one. You have to remove the plastic cover under the seat. Usually mild force is required and some sliding and the plastic covers come off (there held on by tension). There wasn't noticeable noise from using the bolt as a grounding point. I only noticed the noise when there's no audio playing and the volume is turned up past 40 on the stock radio. No alternator whine or anything like that.

After I did my sound deadening project, I grounded my amp to a grounding point located under the rear lower plastic panel that is above the passenger wheel well. The noise, is still there under those same conditions mentioned above. I presume the noise is introduced by the stock head unit.

I believe the bolts are 14mm and yes they are difficult to undo. Safety first as mentioned by rscotta831!

Rear Seat:


Front of Rear Seat:

Bolt Removal (my foots there, because I needed leverage to undo that sucker):
 
I just wouldn't use a seat bolt. Yes I know some installers who do because it's convenient, but you are reducing the thread count into the bolt holes, thus a possible safety issue. Extremely small chance, but let's just say the seat gets thrown in a wreck, causing an injury. Guess who'll be liable? It won't be Toyota.

Plus it's difficult to achieve maximum ground because typically, you are inserting the ground ring terminal on top of the seat bracket. The ground ring terminal, if at all possible, needs to lie against sheet metal...and again, after you have wire brushed the paint off.

Yes, you may have to run the ground wire longer, but there are always good hidden spots along the sides of the vehicle, either by an existing bolt or by creating a new spot with a self-tapping screw.

Since I'm using 0 gauge wire, thus a big ring terminal, I needed a spot where I could run a bolt through the sheet metal, then secured by lock washer & nut on the opposite side. Difficult to find a spot that wouldn't interfere with anything under the vehicle, but I found one under the carpet, behind the passenger side 2nd row. If you should ever have to run a ground bolt that is exposed underneath the vehicle, always silicone the bolt & nut to resist corrosion.
 
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