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OEM hitch wiring harness comment

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mangyolcur

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hi, I did a search and read about the wiring harness install and wanted to thank those who provided detailed instructions a big thanks.

While I feel that I can handle the hitch receiver install (if I can work around installing without removing the bumper skin), I feel that I would take a pass at the wiring harness. I was truly amazed to see how long it was and the multi-page installation instructions. With my first new vehicle in many years, I just don't want to take the chance to muck up an interior panel or otherwise dork something up.

I just made the presumption that the wiring harness would mate to some pre-existing wiring in the back end of the Rav. That is clearly not the case.

Again, thanks to all those folks who provide detailed info on this and many other DYI projects.
 
#2 ·
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Hi, JuneBug. I did see these. I opted to go with the OEM harness which entails routing a very long bundle up and under the drivers side dash (if I read the instructions correctly). Thus, entailing removing a lot of interior obstacles to perform the task. With what is likely one of my last new vehicles and the nicest I have ever owned, I will do the nuts&bolts install of the hitch receiver and pay the dealer to do the interior work.

Thanks!
 
#4 ·
I installed the OEM hitch and OEM wire harness. I will say that if you think you have the ability to install the hitch, I think you will be able to do the wiring install.

That is, if you are putting on the OEM hitch. Taking the panels off the driver's side interior can be nerve-racking, but I will say that this is definitely the worst part. Once you have them off, you run the wires, plug them in, fasten the ground and you're good to go. Too bad you don't live closer to PA because I would help. I would hate to see what the dealer is going to charge to do the install.

Good luck!
 
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#5 ·
When I installed the OEM tow hitch, I had to remove rear bumper skin. Otherwise I could not unscrew those 3 M10 bolts from each side. And it is even harder to install the new ones. To remove rear plastic bumper it take 10 minutes. Un-screw 3 screws on each side in wheel wells, un-plug black plastic buttons on the top and bottom of the skin. They all easy to reach. With small flat screwdriver pull heads of the plastic buttons slightly and then pull them out with bare hands. No force needed to be applied. One self -tapping screw on the passenger side behind rear door remove with 10mm open end wrench. Pull each side of the skin. Better do it two people but one can do it. The skin held in place with small snap hooks. When un-snapped, it will fell down, this is why 2 people are better. Now you have a good easy access to all the bolts. Then just follow toyota instruction. every thing is straight forward. But note, all the m12 and m10 screws are fine thread and easy to cross thread and they have specially machined thread start. Before I installed the hitch I ran all the screws in to matching nuts on the car body, just to get feeling how do they go in, and to clean the thread.
The screws start little bit hard first few threads then go in easy. 2 existing screws from the black tow bracket could be used as spare. I did not use a Torque wrench, but 2 ft pipe as wrench extension. Better to disconnect the muffler, but I did not do it.
Needs to be very careful with this bolt over the muffler. It is tricky to center with muffler in place. I used U-joint on the wrench to torque it. Better do it with a helper.
Specially to snap the skin back. After the plastic skin snapped back , install plastic buttons and screw in wheel wells. The self tapping screw start with small Philips screwdriver and tighten with open end wrench. About 3 hours it took for me working alone. Wire I bought on e-trailer and run it inside of the car to the battery. Plastic is fresh and do not break. For 4 cylinder car, I thing it is sufficient.
Thank you
 
#6 ·
mangyolcur said:
Hi, JuneBug. I did see these. I opted to go with the OEM harness which entails routing a very long bundle up and under the drivers side dash (if I read the instructions correctly). Thus, entailing removing a lot of interior obstacles to perform the task. With what is likely one of my last new vehicles and the nicest I have ever owned, I will do the nuts&bolts install of the hitch receiver and pay the dealer to do the interior work.

Thanks!
Click to expand...
One thing to consider is that the person at the dealer that installs the wiring harness may or may not be knowledgable or careful in removing and replacing the clips and panels and could really do some damage. It is doubtful that the person would be as careful as you could be and take the time necessary to do the install properly. I would never let anyone at a dealer touch my vehicles unless it was absolutely necessary.
 
#7 ·
cmrj said:
One thing to consider is that the person at the dealer that installs the wiring harness may or may not be knowledgable or careful in removing and replacing the clips and panels and could really do some damage. It is doubtful that the person would be as careful as you could be and take the time necessary to do the install properly. I would never let anyone at a dealer touch my vehicles unless it was absolutely necessary.
Click to expand...
I could not agree more with this.

+1
 
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#9 ·
The harness for towing, that is, the extension of the wires does not require the adapter kit but this adapter kit could be an easier solution than soldering and heat shrinking the connections. The harness has the advantage of being able to remove the harness, but I see very little advantage to that unless you sell and buy a similar car.

Also if you have limited or no soldering skill at all. Never wire any car, truck, bike with wire nuts or household connectors, that's a time bomb to failure. Even butt and crimp connectors have their place and near the outer skin of a car is really no place for a bad connection.

The use of a knife, solder paste, and non-acid solder with heat shrink coverings makes a joint that will outlast the car.

And make sure to run a separate ground wire connected to the body or frame and have a ground lug or post within the plug set up, you cannot trust a ball and socket to carry the ground for at least 2 reasons.1 the ball and socket are joined often by a pin, not a secure fastener for electrons, and 2 a bad ground joint will show up as a no working light or the ground may track back through the bulb filaments to seek out the negative, this will cause weird lighting problems
 
#10 ·
cmrj said:
One thing to consider is that the person at the dealer that installs the wiring harness may or may not be knowledgable or careful in removing and replacing the clips and panels and could really do some damage. It is doubtful that the person would be as careful as you could be and take the time necessary to do the install properly. I would never let anyone at a dealer touch my vehicles unless it was absolutely necessary.
Click to expand...
This is very true. If you ever played with Lego blocks as a kid or with your kids, removing interior plastic panels in a RAV4 is a snap. Literally, they snap out and snap back in. Usually with no tools required.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Well, I am fortunate to trust my toyota shop. They occasionally make very minor bobbles, but always make things 100% very quickly.

I could probably do the install but if I messed up, I would have to pay for fixing it. If they mess up, then they have to pay for it.

Incidentally, they quoted $125 to install the wiring harness which I believe I will take them up on.

I must really be getting mangy&old. There are things I used to just dive into that I would rather apply a few greenbacks to nowadays. ;)

Thanks to all. You have been very helpful and I am truly enjoying my 2012 Rav4 Limited v6, 4wd....my first two fill-ups averaged 27.6 and 27.8 mpg using the calculation method (# of miles / # of gallons).

My only "not" like about the Rav4 is the Bridgestone Dueler 687's. They are okay, but they are not going to be on for long.
 
#12 ·
mangyolcur said:
I must really be getting mangy&old. There are things I used to just dive into that I would rather apply a few greenbacks to nowadays. ;)
Click to expand...
I know where you're coming from. I must be turning into a mangy old cur myself!
 
#13 ·
mangyolcur said:
Thanks to all. You have been very helpful and I am truly enjoying my 2012 Rav4 Limited v6, 4wd....my first two fill-ups averaged 27.6 and 27.8 mpg using the calculation method (# of miles / # of gallons).
Click to expand...
To only live in kansas where everything is flat and the mpgs are awesome. :)
 
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Discussion starter · #15 ·
While it is not quite as flat as rumored or depicted in the Wizard of Oz where I live it is definitely not a Rocky Mountain or Appalachian encrusted state.

Plenty of room here in Kansas for Rav4 owners to move in. You are all welcome...

I hope the 27.x mpg's I am getting is due to the habits learned from owning a Camry hybrid and a Prius. You definitely learn a few things about how to increase efficiency if you own and try to learn from one of those cars.

My Rav is a replacement for an older Tacoma that I was only able to manage to about 21.5 mpg lifetime for the v6, 4wd, TRD model.
 
#16 ·
mangyolcur said:
I hope the 27.x mpg's I am getting is due to the habits learned from owning a Camry hybrid and a Prius. You definitely learn a few things about how to increase efficiency if you own and try to learn from one of those cars.
Click to expand...
What habits do you speak of? I am all ears when it comes to improving MPGs. I have my display module set to show me my real-time mpgs while driving, and it helps me a little. Any tips?!
 
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#17 ·
kenm09 said:
What habits do you speak of?
Click to expand...
Can't speak for him but one thing my Hybrid Accord taught me is to back off the accelerator waaay before I know I'm going to stop. And I just barely touch the brake pedal which turns on max regenerative charging. I do most of my actual braking below say 20-30 mph where the charging has faded away.
Obviously we don't have the regen on the RAV but lifting completely does completely shut off the fuel, making it more effective than shifting into neutral and idling.
Also if I catch a traffic light in the beginning of its cycle I'll shut off the RAV. Only pain there is having to shift to neutral to restart and back to drive to start off. Been thinking of bypassing that. (The Accord shuts off anytime you stop and restarts in Drive ASA you release the brake.)

BTW, how'd we morph to mileage on a wiring harness thread???
 
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#19 ·
To return to the issue of the original thread, I had my selling dealer install the OEM trailer wiring harness as part of the purchase deal because I was afraid that I would make a mess of the interior panel rivet removal, and the dealer's service dept. did a first-class job. The only problem was that they had to wait for Toyota to come up with a harness for the 2011s.
 
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JuneBug
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