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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all. I've been looking for a related topic and I'll continue to look but I thought I'd get this on out there.

I have a problem. The Rav isnt doing good.
Problem is the batt died yesterday. Got a jump, came home, removed battery and went to Toyota dealership. Bought new one. The 5 year warranty battery they have. Came back, put it in, put a new 13 dollar negative terminal at the end of the neg line as it was pretty corroded(its just one 12mm bolt that holds it onto the end of the negative's line)then put it on the neg post and tightened it up.

THEN THE PROBLEM STARTED- The positive terminal. I went to put it on and the moment it touched the pos post the horn began, constant, not intermittent, and the headlights came on, constant, not blinking.

And let me tell y'all, it was LOUD! But anyway, I pulled horn fuse so I could bolt it up to the pos post without the horn constant and neighbors calling the police, fire dept, fbi and homeland security!(again, loud!) Hooked the pos up and it just wouldnt start. Also, theres no dash lights. Nothing I tried worked, the Rav wont start.

Tried turning the key in the door to unlock, tried all the key fob's buttons every which way, tried the on/off 5 times, you get the pic. I tried everything! And still when you touch the terminal to the post, horn and headlights and thats it, no start whatsoever!

Something to do with the security maybe? Immobilized because of new batt? Theres no "black box" with 3 wires under the drivers seat. Theres nothing I can think of to try anymore so I came to y'all, hoping!

Thanks for anything you can think of, Marc C.
 

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Marc: I have always put on the positive term first, tighten it and then do the negative, but it sounds like you may have an after-market alarm system installed. Do you?
 

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Marc, I hope we're getting the whole story. When the battery died, did somebody try to jump start the RAV? If so, is it possible the jumper cables were put on backwards? This has been know to blow several fuses among other things.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
No sir, no aftermarket alarm. Nothing aftermarket actually. Same stereo, alarm, hubcaps, etc! I guess I like the ol' Rav just the way it is.
But no sir, o aftermarket alarm. I do have an update though!

I was able to get everything working again. It just wont start now and I think that's because that grey 120 amp glass top fusible link is blown!
I noticed that when pulling fuses looking for blown ones. So, all fuses are good, everything's lighting up on the dash, the key fob is working, etc. The only problem is it wont turn over, just stays silence when turning the key to start it. But like I said, I'm sure it's that alternator fuse.

I've finally gotten the junction box taken apart. The fusible link is out now as well(what a pita!)and the hunt is on for another one.
Problem-Nobody sells that exact one! AZ, Advance, Amazon, and others have the "Bussmann BP-FLM-120-RP". And none of the stores say, "Exact fit for your vehicle". They ALL say, "this does not fit your vehicle" for some reason.

I don't get it. They're just like the factory one I removed. Same color, amps, size. But the 2 metal legs that drop down below it, with the holes at the bottom of em'(the holes that the 2 little screws go into) well, they're not the closed hole type, they're open holed. It's like horseshoe. Identical, except for that one detail. At the bottom of the "legs", the holes for the screws are not actually closed! Just a Horseshoe. It would work I think. But technically, it's not exactly identical because of that!

It's like, should I, shouldn't I? And the only reason I'm considering using it is because NOBODY sells the exact one. But I can get the exact one from Rock Auto it looks like. They have the "Bussmann FLD 120" and it says for "2008-2012 Rav4". The only difference is the letters "rp" are on the other ones, at the end of the model #. Rock Auto's is the same model 3 but only doesn't have the 2 letters at the end("RP") Think that's because of the holes at the bottom of the feet? I know it wouldn't come out after I put the little screws in the "horseshoe" ones.

Ughhhh! Frustrating! Thanks for replying, any help is very appreciated! Sorry so long of a post but I cant seem to explain it right.
 

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So how did you manage to blow a 120 amp fuse by changing a battery? Or did the defective battery short out?

Anyway, the terminals with the closed end are called ring terminals, the "horseshoe" terminals are called spade lugs or spade terminals. That's what we call them in the electronics industry anyway. The Bussman should work just fine as long as you can secure those spade terminals to the screws. There is nothing electrically different about them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Just saw the 3rd post down, about the questionable 120 amp fuse blowing, Sorry about that. Anyway, good point as there has to be something that causes a huge amperage fuse to blow. You're def dead on about that inquisition.

It's mama's car. She had gotten a jump from somebody, she was at a store when the batt died. Someone offered to help her and gave her a jump with their vehicle. She did say there was a "pop"! She said she saw a "blue spark type something or another" during their attempt to jump the car for her. But after a few they got it running for her and she drove straight home.

I had left that out about her getting a jump. Wasn't thinking and didn't want to fill up the post with even more stuff. I was at the point of getting it almost right but had a couple questions and needed some info as well. But I do know this; when I try to help after their car messes up, for whatever the reason, I like to know it ALL! Like anything and everything, every detail, big or little. So, sorry bout that. I wasn't really thinking here. But again, it is my mothers Rav4, she did get a jump, did get it home from there and then called me to come look. I think, but I wasn't there, so I'm not 100% sure, but I think something happened to blow a 120 amp fuse. Somehow it got started though and when she got it home, cut it off, it never started again.

Myself, I wouldn't buy a soft light blueish, Toyota rav4 if I had a choice(I'd try to buy the lexus suv!)but don't get me wrong, I do drive hers a bit, like when I take her to lunch or shopping or anywhere so that she wont have to drive. She's a little older now and she'd rather me drive if we go somewhere together. She likes to be able to talk and stuff and it's hard if she's focusing and concentrating on driving. So I know a bit about the Rav, I like it too!
But, If I had money, I'd prob buy a diff vehicle than a light blue 08 Rav4. But mama, she wont drive ANYTHING else! She says she don't even want a new car. Period! So even if my sister and I pitched in to help get her a brand new car, she don't want it! Weird. Mama ONLY will drive her 08 Rav4.

Ok, so you think the fuse from auto zone or advance is fine as long as I tighten the screws down good. That's what I needed to know. While I'm in there, I saw that her air filter was real dirty so I'll be changing that out but at the top of where the air filter, it seems theres another filter of some sort like built in to the box! Do I change that one out as well somehow?
Thanks for all the support you all have given!!
 

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Marc, change the removable filter asap, it should make the rav run better plus improved MPG. The permanent filter is really not meant to be changed, but try removing it,(plus the air intake housing etc), then clean it with compressed air. We wouldn't want to clean it with compressed air while it is still attached to the air intake! Bad idea.
 

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I would NOT attempt to remove the permanent charcoal filter--I have heard of others trying it and causing damage. Just make sure the rear of the air filter housing is securely in place before snapping down the latches in the front. If you can lift up on the rear of the housing after snapping down the front it is not sealed and air can bypass the filter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Got it, I'm done and she's good now! It worked and THANKS for the help! Threw in the 120 amp "spade" terminal type fusible link fuse, put everything back together, she fired right up! I was a little worried, lil confused, sort of lost there for a minute, but the quick responses from you all were what I needed and I appreciated all of em!

I did remove that top half of the air filter's box, then blew out that permanent screen/filter thing with the air compressor, like y'all wanted. No sense tryin to remove it and creating problems! I bought her an STP air filter from the local AZ.

Mama looked up some records she had, thinks the last time anyone installed a new air filter was at 60k! It said "air filter change done- 7/11/2012". The mileage then was like 60k I believe she said. It's at 160K now.

I Installed 4 new Denso's. They were "SK20R11 Iridium 3297" spark plugs. Those have been a long time coming but it's got new plugs now, new air filter, a new battery and that stupid new fuse that blew!

When installing the new spark plugs, it looked like the valve cover gasket was due. Fuzzys and free oil here and there. Nothing crazy but def there.
Any v/c gaskets better than the others? Maybe that would seal and/or last better? Or probably more importantly, any v/c gaskets to stay away from??

Do you guys think there's anything I should check that was possibly overlooked the last few years, or forgotten about? Maintenance hasn't been to hot since about 80k miles(160k now) I'm not a Rav4 insider so to speak and don't know a lot of the personal characteristics of this vehicle. I do know this- It DEF seems like a good, strong, forever lasting vehicle!

Y'all now know about as much as I know about the history of mama's particular Rav4. Runs great, excellent. These vehicles are unbelievable! All I've ever done for her beyond maintenance for this 08 Rav4, base model, 2.4L-4cyl, FAFZ engine or whatever it's called, was install her a new alternator, 3 years ago, and a new idler pulley, about 2 or 3 years ago(which was a you know what, had to pry the engine as far to the drivers side as I could just to barely get the pulley's bolt out!)but that's it! She runs like new! Still! Somehow.

So basically it's just been oil changes every time the maintenance light comes on(it blinks when she starts the rav, right at 4,500k or so, like clock work, but it starts staying on constant at 5k!) I started using full syn, 5w/30 since it turned about 100k. I did switch to 10w30 about 15k ago though, just tried to do something to try to help with the oil consumption. It didn't(help),at all!

I don't get it. Oil doesn't leak from her engine, anywhere(very clean, exceptionally clean under the hood, especially for 160k), and it doesn't smoke or burn any oil, so where the oil goes is a mystery to me. She uses a quart EVERY 11 to 1200 miles in between oil changes. No exaggeration! And has been for some time now! Also, if she wouldn't have noticed that oil light coming on one day, the motor would've seized up by now. It was over 3 quarts low that day and that was at like 80k miles, If that! I remember well! She called worried to death, so to speak!

She prob needs a PCV valve I'd bet, by now? Maybe new pcv valve hose?

Thanks again!!, Marc C.
 

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Glad you removed the top half of air filter housing BEFORE cleaning it with compressed air Marc. I think JuneBug thought I meant to actually remove that 'permanent' filter FROM the top half of the air filter housing, I certainly did not mean that.

That using oil must be a US thing? My '07 4cyl (in Australia), NEVER uses a drop oil between services. I use 10w-30 semi-synthetic oil with about 10% STP oil treatment. Maybe the STP helps? It has done 202,880 kms (about 126,063 miles).

Check this out :)

 

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So basically it's just been oil changes every time the maintenance light comes on(it blinks when she starts the rav, right at 4,500k or so, like clock work, but it starts staying on constant at 5k!) I started using full syn, 5w/30 since it turned about 100k. I did switch to 10w30 about 15k ago though, just tried to do something to try to help with the oil consumption. It didn't(help),at all!

I don't get it. Oil doesn't leak from her engine, anywhere(very clean, exceptionally clean under the hood, especially for 160k), and it doesn't smoke or burn any oil, so where the oil goes is a mystery to me. She uses a quart EVERY 11 to 1200 miles in between oil changes. No exaggeration! And has been for some time now! Also, if she wouldn't have noticed that oil light coming on one day, the motor would've seized up by now. It was over 3 quarts low that day and that was at like 80k miles, If that! I remember well! She called worried to death, so to speak!
Toyota has a service campaign to rebuild your engine free of charge if it's burning too much oil:

http://www.rav4world.com/forums/106...z-fe-engine-oil-consumption-08-11-2011-a.html

http://www.rav4world.com/forums/99-...4-2az-fe-today-per-ze7-extended-campaign.html
 

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Yeah, there is free coverage for the oil burners with the 2006-2008 4-cyl engines. In the first phase, it was unlimited miles-- until Oct 31st, 2016-- for USA RAVs. Now during phase two of the coverage, it is 10-years from date of first use, or 150,000 miles. The OP at 160k-miles is likely no longer covered.
 

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BAH said:
...That using oil must be a US thing? My '07 4cyl (in Australia), NEVER uses a drop oil between services. I use 10w-30 semi-synthetic oil with about 10% STP oil treatment. Maybe the STP helps? It has done 202,880 kms (about 126,063 miles)...
BAH said:
Actually there were several countries with the oil burning problem with the 2006-2008 2.4L 4-cyl engine. Not everyone is afflicted, but it involved enough complaints to bring a class action lawsuit in the USA. To counter that, Toyota offered an enhanced warranty to fix it, which is now playing out as the vehicles age. Your suggestion to use STP or anything else is likely not going to help. Hundreds on a Camry forum (same engine as the RAV) tried every conceivable oil weight, cleaner and various concoction to no avail. It has been acknowledged by Toyota to be a piston/ring flaw in certain vehicles, and they certainly won't reveal exactly how many or which ones are involved. They scooted by with an 'enhanced warranty' and not a recall.
 
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