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Discussion Starter #1
Do I have a fuel leak? It dropped from it's average of 15.1 to 13.8 in one day. The only thing I did recently was the rear brake pads. I did it myself. Could something have punctured some area of the fuel? How do I check for leaks if it's not obvious?
 

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What sort of driving are you doing when you got your reported mileage - short drives, as in small town, or highway driving? Is there a difference between the types of driving you have done before the brake pad replacement and after? If you have a fuel leak which would noticeably affect mileage you should at least smell gasoline and there may be an occasional drip on the ground. Best thing is to place a newspaper under the fuel system and check for drops regularly since gasoline evaporates rather quickly.

My V6 RAV gets lousy mileage (anywhere between 12 and 16, depending upon various factors) in hilly small town use with many drives being only a couple of miles. Highway driving with a mix of narrow mountain roads with lots of bends, more straight line highway, and Interstate driving usually is in the 26 mpg range.

Also, I determine mileage by the miles I have driven since the last gas tank fill up divided by the amount of fuel needed to fill the tank again. The dash gas mileage meter in my view is largely for entertainment since it is inaccurate generally by about two mpg, sometimes more.
 
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Ours gets around 23mpg no matter what. Around town? 23. Cross country interstate drive? 23. Journey up into the mountains on snowy roads? 23.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
What sort of driving are you doing when you got your reported mileage - short drives, as in small town, or highway driving? Is there a difference between the types of driving you have done before the brake pad replacement and after? If you have a fuel leak which would noticeably affect mileage you should at least smell gasoline and there may be an occasional drip on the ground. Best thing is to place a newspaper under the fuel system and check for drops regularly since gasoline evaporates rather quickly.

My V6 RAV gets lousy mileage (anywhere between 12 and 16, depending upon various factors) in hilly small town use with many drives being only a couple of miles. Highway driving with a mix of narrow mountain roads with lots of bends, more straight line highway, and Interstate driving usually is in the 26 mpg range.

Also, I determine mileage by the miles I have driven since the last gas tank fill up divided by the amount of fuel needed to fill the tank again. The dash gas mileage meter in my view is largely for entertainment since it is inaccurate generally by about two mpg, sometimes more.
I use it for delivery and I also idle it a lot. I already had to change an o2 sensor because of that, but back then it got like 17mpg. It just steadily creeps lower. I do most of the maintenance myself, the only thing I haven't done lately is change the battery or the spark plugs. My battery died a few times relatively easily with the engine off and radio on, so the reserve is shot. The plugs are supposed to be done at 100,000 miles and I'm at 130,000. I don't know if that would affect mileage that much. I just saw a radiator leak, but I can't check where it's coming from till tomorrow morning. Could that affect the mileage?
 

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Mine is just a 2.5, but all winter I've been averaging between 18-20mpg. When I put my summer tires and rims on I'll get about 23 around town, close to 30 on the highway
 

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I had my water pump replaced about 2 months ago. And now I'm thinking the shop messed something up, but they're good guys so I'll take it to them for that. But I'm still confused as to the lost mileage. The only other thing I did recently was add a chrome exhaust tip but I seriously doubt that could do anything. It's literally just a tip.
 

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Don't be that guy.......had a water pump replaced 2 months ago? What could they possibly have done to affect your mileage? Plus....it was 2 months ago. Didn't the mileage issue start recently?
 

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Do I have a fuel leak? It dropped from it's average of 15.1 to 13.8 in one day. The only thing I did recently was the rear brake pads. I did it myself. Could something have punctured some area of the fuel? How do I check for leaks if it's not obvious?
Do a temperature check of the rear discs. Wet a finger. Touch the disc. If it sizzles it's hot. Don't worry. It will wear down. Oh, did you change gas supplier since?
.
 

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Do I have a fuel leak? It dropped from it's average of 15.1 to 13.8 in one day. The only thing I did recently was the rear brake pads. I did it myself. Could something have punctured some area of the fuel? How do I check for leaks if it's not obvious?
Replacing the rear brake pads shouldn't affect your gas mileage, unless as pico implies there may be some brake drag from the new disks but unless the wrong pads were used that is not so likely. Suggest doing the overdue maintenance such as replacing the spark plugs. Again, if you are afraid that there is a gasoline leak suggest placing newspaper under the fuel system from gas tank to engine and check for drops but unless you really did something totally wrong which punctured something in the fuel system having a fuel leak is very unlikely,
 

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I use it for delivery and I also idle it a lot. I already had to change an o2 sensor because of that, but back then it got like 17mpg. It just steadily creeps lower. I do most of the maintenance myself, the only thing I haven't done lately is change the battery or the spark plugs. My battery died a few times relatively easily with the engine off and radio on, so the reserve is shot. The plugs are supposed to be done at 100,000 miles and I'm at 130,000. I don't know if that would affect mileage that much. I just saw a radiator leak, but I can't check where it's coming from till tomorrow morning. Could that affect the mileage?
look at your temps pre/post of the caty with respect to the 02/AF sensors, you need to take it to a tech that knows how to use modern day diagnostics scopes such as the Snap-On types with 4-channels, again that tech needs to know what he is doing to pin point exactly what is wrong, it's quite complex.

There is a mechanic/tech on youtube that knows his stuff, Eric 0 of South Main Auto, this guy is amazing at troubleshooting with scopes.....and honest. At that mileage reported and type of driving you do it's "cooking" everything that in area, yes change plugs and analyze them(just don't pluck-n-chuck) start there and work your way to the catys and up/downstream O2/AF sensors. Unfortunately the repair cost will be expensive due to the EPA requirements to modern day vehicles with all these components required just to drive cars burning gasoline(its the government and when dealing with them it is always $$$$) even if you "shot-gun" everything yourself(plugs, 2 catys and 4-O2/AF sensors its pricey.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Do a temperature check of the rear discs. Wet a finger. Touch the disc. If it sizzles it's hot. Don't worry. It will wear down. Oh, did you change gas supplier since?
.
The rear discs are definitely on the worn side. When I changed the pads a few days ago I could tell just by looking at them but I didn't have the money to do everything at the time. I'm hoping to do everything next month when it warms up. I'll do all 4 discs, new pads again (may as well do the ones I just changed, too since I'm taking them off to get to the discs), I'll do the transmission flush again and change the filter this time, coolant flush, oil change (I use full synthetic), new air filters in and out, I'll probably get the tires rotated at the nearest tire place (too much of a pain in the ass to do myself), and if I can figure out the rear plug I'll change all six or go to my mechanic to do it. They said the plugs would be a $300 job. The rear plugs are apparently behind the intake manifold and I'm not really sure if my level of ability is good enough to screw around with that.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Replacing the rear brake pads shouldn't affect your gas mileage, unless as pico implies there may be some brake drag from the new disks but unless the wrong pads were used that is not so likely. Suggest doing the overdue maintenance such as replacing the spark plugs. Again, if you are afraid that there is a gasoline leak suggest placing newspaper under the fuel system from gas tank to engine and check for drops but unless you really did something totally wrong which punctured something in the fuel system having a fuel leak is very unlikely,
These are the rear pads I used. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0027A7QYY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

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Discussion Starter #13
look at your temps pre/post of the caty with respect to the 02/AF sensors, you need to take it to a tech that knows how to use modern day diagnostics scopes such as the Snap-On types with 4-channels, again that tech needs to know what he is doing to pin point exactly what is wrong, it's quite complex.

There is a mechanic/tech on youtube that knows his stuff, Eric 0 of South Main Auto, this guy is amazing at troubleshooting with scopes.....and honest. At that mileage reported and type of driving you do it's "cooking" everything that in area, yes change plugs and analyze them(just don't pluck-n-chuck) start there and work your way to the catys and up/downstream O2/AF sensors. Unfortunately the repair cost will be expensive due to the EPA requirements to modern day vehicles with all these components required just to drive cars burning gasoline(its the government and when dealing with them it is always $$$$) even if you "shot-gun" everything yourself(plugs, 2 catys and 4-O2/AF sensors its pricey.
I did one o2 sensor and it was pretty easy to get to, the plug was under the driver side floor, and it was fairly easy to do the whole thing. I think it took about five minutes start to finish. Maybe another five since I put the front end on the ramps. But if I'm not throwing any codes would it be worth changing the other o2 sensors as well? Honestly, I have no idea how many there are. I'm thinking four. And have you ever done the spark plugs on the V6? I'm positive I can do the front three with no problem, but it's those rear three that ar in a bad spot.
 

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I did one o2 sensor and it was pretty easy to get to, the plug was under the driver side floor, and it was fairly easy to do the whole thing. I think it took about five minutes start to finish. Maybe another five since I put the front end on the ramps. But if I'm not throwing any codes would it be worth changing the other o2 sensors as well? Honestly, I have no idea how many there are. I'm thinking four. And have you ever done the spark plugs on the V6? I'm positive I can do the front three with no problem, but it's those rear three that ar in a bad spot.
Why dont you take out one of the front spark plugs and see what it looks like..130,000 miles I would think it's time to change them.. That might help your gas mileage.

http://www.rav4world.com/forums/99-4-3-mechanical/87788-spark-plug-change-2007-v6-diy-not-too-complicated.html


The v-6 has 4 02 sensors

Bank 1 sensor 1+2
Bank 2 sensor 1+2
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Why dont you take out one of the front spark plugs and see what it looks like..130,000 miles I would think it's time to change them.. That might help your gas mileage.

http://www.rav4world.com/forums/99-4-3-mechanical/87788-spark-plug-change-2007-v6-diy-not-too-complicated.html

Spark Plug Replacement Toyota Rav4 2006-2012 - YouTube

The v-6 has 4 02 sensors

Bank 1 sensor 1+2
Bank 2 sensor 1+2
That sounds like a plan. I've never done the plugs before. Can I get one out with a regular socket (I have the long sockets) or do I need a magnetic one?
 

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reference to the sensor you already replace, the location would be the actual downstream or a true O2 sensor, that won't affect fuel economy, the downstream reports to the upstream components, such as the A/F ratio sensors which generally report to the engine management system. it's fairly common for the upstream A/F or air-fuel ratio sensor to get "lazy" after so many miles.....i see them as spark plugs, yes they are still working and no codes present, but will affect fuel economy just like spark plugs and even coil packs don't produce optimum spark patterns like when they were new.....so at 130,000K miles and vehicle 8yrs old i would focus on the plugs and maybe the bank 1/bank 2 upstream A/F ratio sensors with new air filter with cleaning of the intake. generally we don't replace anything unless there is the "money-light" illuminated, but if you want to truly know whats going on with fuel economy related to engine management systems then you need to "scope" all individual components related.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The engine sounds great but everything else seems to be dying. I just decided to go get some food and it wouldn't start the first try. Nothing was on so, battery, too? And now the heat isn't working. My wife hates this car because stuff keeps breaking at the worst time. So what would cause all this to happen at once? Should I just let the dealership repo it? I have a 2012 Focus SE with zero problems. If the RAV has an expiration date it's going to be a problem.
 
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