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Do you own stock in Jiffy Lube? When did following the OM and Maintenance Guide become considered "skimping"?

"Steve Mazor, manager of American Automobile Association's Research Center, said that more-frequent-than-necessary oil changes will not "gain any additional life for your engine or any improved fuel economy." He added, "In reality it will make little or no difference to the performance of the vehicle."
and you believe in the lifetime fluid fairy too? Did you really wait until 10K miles for your first oil change?

I do my own changes at less than $50 and half an hour of time. I overservice the fluids and have always got 200K+ miles. I've been doing this for 40 years and I'm not about to change. It's the damn New England rust that ends up killing my cars but they still have good engines and transmissions.
 

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0-16, 5-20, 5-30, all works in these Rav gas engines. TX summer, use 5-30, 20F below in N Dakota, use 0-16 or 0-20.
They had spec'd 0-16 even before 0-16 was certified in the US, hence why they allowed 0-20.

The oil is as good as UOA says it's good. Blackstone tests, is one way to know. Full synths can go 7kmi(min) in a Rav4. Change oil when needed, etc.
 

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I agree warmer climate areas need higher viscosity for better protection. Toyota statement switch back in pinch is for fuel economy not engine protection and they also recommend higher viscosity under more extreme conditions in other words better protection. If you're an average driver in moderate climates 16 is fine for uber drivers in Florida summer use higher.
 

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Within limits that is true. To me the biggest variable is the temp during cold starts. That is when the engine is most vulnerable to wear. Pushing an engine past its normal operating temp when the ambient temperature is high can certainly be done but it's also fairly easy to avoid, IMO.
 

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I don't understand why water cooling engine needs this? Cooling systems should keep engine at specific temperature regardless of ambient temperature.
Am I wrong?
Using regulated water flow, the cooling system can remove X amount of btu to keep water temp stable. This does not mean the internals stay at the same temp. The internal temps can still rise, the water pulls heat out, the radiator expels the heat.

In general, the heavier oils will protect better. The question becomes, is it really needed? But instead of doing a deep dive on that you can simply ask the question the other way, what does it hurt to use the heavier oil in summer? The answer is, it's doesn't, thus ok to use. There may be a slight (very slight, very small fraction of 1) mpg diff across a full tank of gas.

In other basic terms, doesn't really matter I guess. For the Rav4, I use the 5-30 all the time. For my Lexus v8, pretty much now just 10-30 year round. Full synths are good oils, and from what I have seen, oil changes near 7kmi allow the engine to have a long clean life, my Lexus is nearing 300kmi.
 

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For warmer year round climates higher viscosity is a must. Toyota recommendation is based on moderate year round climates.
 

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For warmer year round climates higher viscosity is a must. Toyota recommendation is based on moderate year round climates.
And what are the temperature parameters to be considered "warmer year round climates"?
My OM doesn't mention anything about that. Maybe the RAV4 owners where you live are provided with a different OM?
 

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I live in perhaps the hottest metropolitan area in the United States (Las Vegas), and I have always used the lightest oils per the Toyota manual, first with a 2007 Yaris 0w-20, through 4 Prius (0w-20, 0w-16), and up to our new 2021 Rav4 Hybrid AWD Limited, doing 10,000-mile oil changes. And in that history, our cars never burned oil, never had a problem, so I am convinced that using 0w-16 in 118F+ hot week after week is more than fine.

What people forget is that fact that the cooling systems on our 2.5L motors are high-performance systems, so it does not matter if the ambient temperature is freezing, 70F, 80F, 90F, or 120F...0W-16 will provide the required engine protection so that you can get 300,000+ from your gas motor. So who cars what the ambient temperature is if our cooling system does a spectacular job?

What matters is the temperature INSIDE the engine, not the ambient. Embrace science!
 

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The cooling system moderates engine temps, it does not pin it to one temp.
On a hot summer Las Vegas day, do 10mi of city driving and then take an oil temp and/or water temp. Then do the same on a chilly winter Las Vegas day.

The heavier oils have better properties for protecting against metal-metal contact.

Ambient temps do kinda matter, you can only cool the water down to ambient, no less. So when it's 110F in Las Vegas the water can only be as cold as 110F. In say chilly Fargo in summer, the water can go lower to 75F, or in some other mountain areas in summer, could be as low as 60F. When delta between ambient and operating temp is small, the cooling system needs more fan and/or more flow to try and remove Btu from the water to keep internals within a operating range.

Who has taken a 4.5gen 2.5L motor to 300kmi yet using only 0-16, in hot Las Vegas ?
 
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