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Discussion Starter #1
Was intrigued when I heard Toyota's break-in period is 1k miles. I know what to do and not do ... are these guidelines generally followed?

I plan to run Mobil 1 in this car and change it every six months (we only drive about 5k/yr.) Was planning to change around 500 miles or so. Any reason not to? 1000 miles will come well into the dead of winter and I do all my own oil changes.

TIA,

-kj-
 

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There has been much debate about when you can switch to synthetic on a new engine. Some people say you should wait to build up some mileage, while others say you can go right ahead. My personal opinion (having done this myself) is to wait until you have at least 5,000 miles on the engine using conventional oil before you switch. Using conventional oil helps the engine break-in properly and lets the seals seat up well.

You can change the oil as early or as frequently as you want, however I suggest staying with conventional oil for the first 5K miles. Go ahead and do an oil change at 500 or 1,000 miles if you want; it won't hurt anything. Most people don't even do a break-in oil change, let alone follow the break-in procedure.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks. That's a familiar debate. :) I switched to synth at 862 miles on my 3800V6 and never looked back. Problem is, that was in a comparatively short period of time. Could take a couple months for me to get that far in the RAV. It's barely driven - 100 miles a week would be a lot - many short trips - which means the necessity for oil changes is even greater.

-kj-
 

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I changed over to Mobil 1 at 1000 miles after checking with the dealer who said it was OK. Car has 13K now and runs great.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Ditto that

I also agree - run it for the first 1000 miles then switch over to synthetic oil, like Mobil 1 or AMSOIL 5W30. Also change the filter at that time to a better quality one, like Mobil 1, Amsoil or K&N.

I bought a magnetic oil filter plug, which I installed at that time.

I've done this with every car I have owned and have been using synthetic oil for over 20 years.

Never run 20W50 in any overhead cam engines!
 

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Re: Ditto that

parkwaycruiser said:
I also agree - run it for the first 1000 miles then switch over to synthetic oil, like Mobil 1 or AMSOIL 5W30. Also change the filter at that time to a better quality one, like Mobil 1, Amsoil or K&N.

I bought a magnetic oil filter plug, which I installed at that time.

I've done this with every car I have owned and have been using synthetic oil for over 20 years.

Never run 20W50 in any overhead cam engines!
How is that magnetic plug working? TIA, Sig
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Hello all,

Just new to RAV4world.com.

Sept 13th, 2005, bought my new 2005 RAV. I picked it up during the 2005 clearout event, last RAV on the lot. Manual, 4WD, basically the B package up here in Canada. This is my first new car and has been so much fun. I understand thayt Toyota Canada has sacrificed a lot of the options for price. I read here that Canada pushes the Corolla so much more. I wouldnt mind the 6 speed but I have a Dog, see it here http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a221/Dudley_Dog/DSC00029.jpg
Anyways, I aksed the dealer about breaking in the RAV. He said that "By the book, you shouldnt drive over 88 kph", I laughed and he said, "the only thing I wouldnt do, is drive 130 kph, with cruise on for 4 hours". He also said do not change the oil until the "book" says to, which I forget. "if you change the oil in the next few months,, you will be back here with major screwups". You know how dealers are, big talkers.

For the past 48 hours, I have been driving how I normally do, maybe taking it easy a bit. I aslo have smelled a little burning smelll
when i park the RAV, not when I am inside, but right when i get out. Anybody tell me what this is?

Glad to be here.

Peace
 

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Ants in my Pants said:
I aslo have smelled a little burning smelll when i park the RAV, not when I am inside, but right when i get out. Anybody tell me what this is?
Welcome aboard Ants - The burning smell is normal. Some new vehicles might have a light coating of oil, dust or etc. on the hot areas of the engine/exhaust. It will take awhile for these coatings to burn off.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Magnetic Drain Plug

I have not had the oil changed since putting it in, but I will get a photo of it next oil change. I got it on ebay from a Trading Company in Hong Kong for about $12 - about 10 days to receive it in the mail. It looks like a quality part that should not rust, and the magnet is very strong.

It looks exactly like this ebay item number: 7999445518
 
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Discussion Starter #10
The magnetic drain plug is a neat idea. I have used and like the Fram SureDrain (non-magnetic) - it's GREAT to be able to change the oil on a nearly hot engine.
 

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What's the rush?

I have to agree with Jeff: "Using conventional oil helps the engine break-in properly and lets the seals seat up well"

I say what's the rush?
If you need immediate protection in severe weather or driving conditions. Then I say Do It!
But driving under normal conditions changing oil every 3,000 miles is just as good.

I feel the break-in period could be up to 15,000 miles on the odometer as told by the Toyota technicians. Currently, with 13,200 miles my gas mileage is still on the rise which leads me to believe the engine is still going through changes. Synthetic oil is some slippery stuff and might not let the engine seat up well.

So why take the risk if you could get better break-in with conventional oils in the long run.
Here's my oil change history with Toyota.

1,000 miles (recommended, no charge from the dealer)
(3,000 mile scheduled intervals)

4,000 miles (Toyota motor oil, no charge)
7,000 miles (Toyota motor oil, no charge)
10,000 miles (Toyota motor oil, no charge)
13,000 miles (Full Synthetic, Toyota dealer recommended, no charge)

(5,000 scheduled mile intervals)
Next oil change and first tune up @ 15,000 miles.

So from personal experience. What's the harm in waiting to chalk up the miles before switching to Synthetic? I feel you have nothing to lose and you might have more to gain by waiting.

Ravon~* 8)
 
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Discussion Starter #12
Mobil 1

I got this from the Mobil 1 website:

"One of the myths that surrounds synthetic oils is that new engines require a break-in period with conventional oil. The fact is, current engine manufacturing technology does not require this break-in period. As indicated by the decisions of the engineers who design the high-performance cars listed above, Mobil 1 can be used starting the day you drive the car off the showroom floor."

"Mobil 1 with SuperSyn Technology is original equipment (it is installed at the factory) in many cars, including Corvette, Viper, Cadillac, Aston Martin, Bentley, Mercedes Benz, and all Porsche vehicles."

It should be good enough for a little RAV4. I would think 1000 miles on regular oil should be enough break in, if you still think you need to.
 

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Using synthetic-oil in engine break-ins

Just to add more confusion:
-Redline Technical Correspondence-

Many consumers have questioned us on engine break-in procedures when using synthetic oil. Conventional wisdom has it that a new or freshly rebuilt engine should be broken in using mineral oil, then, once enough mileage has accumulated to ensure rings and cylinder walls have lapped themselves into harmony, synthetic oil can be used.

Redline, has found it best to recommend a mineral oil break-in. Occasionally an engine will glaze its cylinder walls when initially run on Redline, they say, so by using a mineral oil for 2000 miles or more, verifying there is no oil consumption and then switching to the synthetic, glazing is eliminated.

Cylinder-wall glazing is not a deposit left on the cylinder wall, but rather a displacement of cylinder-wall metal. This happens when the high spots of the cylinder wall crosshatch are not cut or worn off by the piston rings, but rather rolled over into the valleys or grooves of the crosshatch. This leaves a surface that oil adheres too poorly, against which the rings cannot seal well. Compression is lost and oil consumed, and the only cure is to tear down the engine to physically restore the cylinder-wall finish by honing.

Again, What's the harm in waiting to chalk up the miles before switching to Synthetic? I feel you have nothing to lose and you might have more to gain by waiting.

Im sure I'll get flamed for this.
I think Redline products are superior to Mobil 1.

Ravon~* :twisted:
 

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Check here

The Bob site...

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/index.html

Go thru their forums and articles for some interesting reading on dino vs. synth, brands, filters, UOAs and OCIs, et al. Some surprising stuff too.

From my own experience, I swapped out the "factory oil" at about 1500 miles for Mob-1, and man, that factory oil was blacker than a politician's heart.

I intend to do the 5K OCI w/ filter because that's whats in the book for "severe service" (PGH area). I'll have my receipts to show as proof.

After hangin' at BITOG, I'm not so hung up about full synth anymore, so may go for a cheaper synth blend. As for the filter - not skimping there. If I can't get those trick Jap.-only factory filters, then I'll chase down the Pure One that fits or stick with the NAPA (Wix) Gold that fits.
 
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