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Hello everyone. First of all, I'd like to thank the Rav4World community. I've been around this forum for quite some time, but I never really feel like registering to comment.

A little background on my Rav4...and my current project.

I purchased a 2001 Rav4 AWD with an automatic transmission. While I love the car, I knew it was lacking power especially torque when I first test drove it. It also struggles during hill climbs. I figure as long as it's not giving me any issues, I can live with the Rav4 the way it is. Shortly after I purchased the vehicle, I started to notice major oil leaks. The previous owner had gotten the car washed and detailed (which I find it suspicious, but didn't really give it a 2nd thought at the time). Anyhow, the oil would leak heavily on the passenger side of the motor. After a few inspections, I figured it's either leaking from the timing chain cover, and front crank shaft seal, and or the ocv seal. Long story short, my Rav4 had created oil spots (roughly 3ft x 3 ft) on my two driveways. I've been wanting to pull the motor and either rebuild it or at the very least, change the head gasket (found some sealer in coolant by previous owner) and all the other seals, and also reseal the timing chain cover. So I've waited 3 years.....put about 30k miles on it. Surprisingly, this Rav4 has not really given me any issues other than the oil leak and the 2 bad spark plug coils.

I got tired of the oil leak, and decided to replace the motor. So I started looking on CL and calling local dismantlers. The 1AZ-FE is sure hard to find....anyhow, I ended up buying a wrecked 2007 scion tc with a manual transmission (paid $550 for everything including tow fees) with the 2AZ-FE motor. The 1st struggle was pulling just the motor out of the scion tc. I tried to pull just the motor after unbolting all the engine - transmission bolts. I was not able to clear the transmission input shaft because of the clutch. So I ended up pulling both the engine and transmission in one piece.

On the Rav4, I was afraid of the same clearance issue, and I'd like to avoid having to unbolt the drive shaft from the transfer case (AWD model). Also, it looked impossible to pull both the motor and transmission out the top with the transfer case still attached due to clearance with the power steering rack (if you have just the FWD model, you can pull both together out the top). After days of googling and searching forums after forums, I can't find anything on whether or not I can just remove the motor while the transmission is still in the car. I did some measurements, and the fact that my Rav4 is an automatic, I figure I'd only need about an inch of space on the passenger side of the engine to fully detach the motor from the tranny. So I continue on with the project.

I took my time and unbolt all the little and big things attached to the motor (bolts, nuts, hoses, plugs, etc.). I was planning to pull the engine wire harness with the motor, but I can not figure out how to detach it from the hood fuse box (driver side). So I ended up just disconnecting the wire harness from the engine and set it aside. I also removed the AC compressor and hang it where the radiator sits (I removed the radiator as well). Intake and Exhaust manifold removed as well. The plate that holds the passenger axle or in my case the transfer case to the engine was also removed (about 4 bolts). I also unbolted the power steering fluid reservoir from the engine bay and just let it loose so I wont' have any clearance issue when pulling the motor. The power steering pump was also detached from the motor and sits in the back toward the firewall. You DO NOT NEED to fully take out the 2 power steering pump bolts; taking the top bolts out requires you to drop the motor really low or jack the motor up really high for it to clear the side frame/wall. What I did was once I loosened the 2 bolts to the point that they can be pushed in and out freely, slide it out a bit about 1 inch toward the wheel well/wall, then pry on the PS pump to loosen it from the mounting bracket on the engine. Once loosen enough, I pried it backward toward the firewall. The mounting holes on the engine are not fully enclosed so the bolts can be slide backward toward the firewall (I was not able to find this info anywhere online or in the repair manual or maybe I didn't look hard enough).

Once that is done, unbolt all the transmission - engine bolts (4 short ones on the bottom and about 4-5 longer ones on top). Then unbolt the 6 flexplate - torque converter bolts. I then connected my engine hoist to the engine using a load leveler (absolutely recommended!). Jack the hoist a bit to tighten the chains, then unbolt the passenger side engine mount. The engine and transmission should already slightly separate or you can slightly pry the two apart and then just wiggle the engine toward the wheel well. Once fully separated, just be sure it clears the AC lines so jack up the hoist slowly and try not to get the engine caught up in anything.

Hopefully this would help some folks who wants to remove/replace/rebuild/swap their rav4 motor.

Ultimately, you can remove the motor from the car with minimal work by only disconnecting the hoses, wire harness connectors on the engine (leave everything else not attached to the engine alone), both manifolds, axle bracket, AC and PS pump. If I had to do it again, I can probably do it in 1-2 hour max. You don't even have to remove the tires if you don't want to since the axles stay in the car attached to the trans and/or transfer case (AWD model). You DO NOT NEED to drop everything with the sub-frame out the bottom even if you are only needing to pull the motor as per recommended by ALL THE REPAIR MANUALS and ONLINE INFORMATION by other rav4 owners.

Another key information that I was not able to find online and may be useful for others is that the timing chain cover for the 2az-fe from 2007 scion tc is exactly the same as the one on the 1az-fe so I didn't even need to swap that out. I did, however, swapped one of the bolts (first hole toward the firewall on the timing chain cover where the engine mount is bolted to) because the rav4's bolt is shorter.

On the 2AZ-FE itself, I've changed the valve cover gasket, cleaned the ocv and the filter, replaced both the front and rear main seals, pcv valve, replaced the intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, and use new denso spark plugs.

I will try to post pictures that I took but they are not in any order or so when I took them. If you need to see a comparison of some parts on the two engines, let me know and I will take pics for those. Any questions, let me know. And sorry for the whole wall of texts. I just hope it can help someone down the road as I was not able to find much answers to my questions before I pulled the trigger...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I didn't. The engine I pulled from the 2007 Scion tC was a rebuilt motor by "LKQ". I also did a history check on the VIN from that motor and before rebuilt, the last record shows it had about 100k miles. When I pulled the motor and opened up the valve cover, it was clean as a brand new motor. No sign of leakage through the head gasket around the side where the block meets the head. I figured if the engine ended up consuming excessive oil, then I'll take it apart either way and I can addressed the head bolts then. So far, the engine ran good. It was night and day compared to the 1AZ-FE. So far, about 400 miles had been put on that motor and no issues yet.


Just a quick overview of some key info with the swap:


-Engine on the Rav4 can be pulled WITHOUT the transmission (may not be true for Rav4s with manual transmission due to clearance with the clutch pressure plate )
-2AZ-FE from Scion tCs will bolt up on the Rav4's engine mount (meaning you don't have to swap the timing chain cover nor the oil pan; oil pan and oil pump did not get swapped over as per another thread that used a 2AZ from a Camry)
-I used the flexplate from the 1AZ to eliminate compatibility issues with the Rav4's starter
-Only the knock sensor, engine coolant temperature sensor, and one more sensor (don't know the name) will need to be swapped over due to having different engine harness connectors.
-Intake manifold (including the throttle body) and Exhaust manifold were from the 1AZ
-I kept the crank pulley, water pump and belt tensioner from the Scion tC. I re-used the P.S. pump, AC, and Alternator from the Rav4.
-Surprisingly, the crank pulley seal is different between the 1AZ and 2AZ. Depending on which crank pulley you used, you'll use the version of the seal made for the motor that the pulley was pulled from.
-The Serpentine belt also has different part numbers between the two cars; since I used the majority of accessories from the 1AZ, I kept the serpentine belt made for the 1AZ. I also bought the 2AZ's belt just in case but didn't need it.
 

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Need pics ! Cool swap. So your using the RAV4 auto trans ? All the plugs line up well ?

Hello everyone. First of all, I'd like to thank the Rav4World community. I've been around this forum for quite some time, but I never really feel like registering to comment.

A little background on my Rav4...and my current project.

I purchased a 2001 Rav4 AWD with an automatic transmission. While I love the car, I knew it was lacking power especially torque when I first test drove it. It also struggles during hill climbs. I figure as long as it's not giving me any issues, I can live with the Rav4 the way it is. Shortly after I purchased the vehicle, I started to notice major oil leaks. The previous owner had gotten the car washed and detailed (which I find it suspicious, but didn't really give it a 2nd thought at the time). Anyhow, the oil would leak heavily on the passenger side of the motor. After a few inspections, I figured it's either leaking from the timing chain cover, and front crank shaft seal, and or the ocv seal. Long story short, my Rav4 had created oil spots (roughly 3ft x 3 ft) on my two driveways. I've been wanting to pull the motor and either rebuild it or at the very least, change the head gasket (found some sealer in coolant by previous owner) and all the other seals, and also reseal the timing chain cover. So I've waited 3 years.....put about 30k miles on it. Surprisingly, this Rav4 has not really given me any issues other than the oil leak and the 2 bad spark plug coils.

I got tired of the oil leak, and decided to replace the motor. So I started looking on CL and calling local dismantlers. The 1AZ-FE is sure hard to find....anyhow, I ended up buying a wrecked 2007 scion tc with a manual transmission (paid $550 for everything including tow fees) with the 2AZ-FE motor. The 1st struggle was pulling just the motor out of the scion tc. I tried to pull just the motor after unbolting all the engine - transmission bolts. I was not able to clear the transmission input shaft because of the clutch. So I ended up pulling both the engine and transmission in one piece.

On the Rav4, I was afraid of the same clearance issue, and I'd like to avoid having to unbolt the drive shaft from the transfer case (AWD model). Also, it looked impossible to pull both the motor and transmission out the top with the transfer case still attached due to clearance with the power steering rack (if you have just the FWD model, you can pull both together out the top). After days of googling and searching forums after forums, I can't find anything on whether or not I can just remove the motor while the transmission is still in the car. I did some measurements, and the fact that my Rav4 is an automatic, I figure I'd only need about an inch of space on the passenger side of the engine to fully detach the motor from the tranny. So I continue on with the project.

I took my time and unbolt all the little and big things attached to the motor (bolts, nuts, hoses, plugs, etc.). I was planning to pull the engine wire harness with the motor, but I can not figure out how to detach it from the hood fuse box (driver side). So I ended up just disconnecting the wire harness from the engine and set it aside. I also removed the AC compressor and hang it where the radiator sits (I removed the radiator as well). Intake and Exhaust manifold removed as well. The plate that holds the passenger axle or in my case the transfer case to the engine was also removed (about 4 bolts). I also unbolted the power steering fluid reservoir from the engine bay and just let it loose so I wont' have any clearance issue when pulling the motor. The power steering pump was also detached from the motor and sits in the back toward the firewall. You DO NOT NEED to fully take out the 2 power steering pump bolts; taking the top bolts out requires you to drop the motor really low or jack the motor up really high for it to clear the side frame/wall. What I did was once I loosened the 2 bolts to the point that they can be pushed in and out freely, slide it out a bit about 1 inch toward the wheel well/wall, then pry on the PS pump to loosen it from the mounting bracket on the engine. Once loosen enough, I pried it backward toward the firewall. The mounting holes on the engine are not fully enclosed so the bolts can be slide backward toward the firewall (I was not able to find this info anywhere online or in the repair manual or maybe I didn't look hard enough).

Once that is done, unbolt all the transmission - engine bolts (4 short ones on the bottom and about 4-5 longer ones on top). Then unbolt the 6 flexplate - torque converter bolts. I then connected my engine hoist to the engine using a load leveler (absolutely recommended!). Jack the hoist a bit to tighten the chains, then unbolt the passenger side engine mount. The engine and transmission should already slightly separate or you can slightly pry the two apart and then just wiggle the engine toward the wheel well. Once fully separated, just be sure it clears the AC lines so jack up the hoist slowly and try not to get the engine caught up in anything.

Hopefully this would help some folks who wants to remove/replace/rebuild/swap their rav4 motor.

Ultimately, you can remove the motor from the car with minimal work by only disconnecting the hoses, wire harness connectors on the engine (leave everything else not attached to the engine alone), both manifolds, axle bracket, AC and PS pump. If I had to do it again, I can probably do it in 1-2 hour max. You don't even have to remove the tires if you don't want to since the axles stay in the car attached to the trans and/or transfer case (AWD model). You DO NOT NEED to drop everything with the sub-frame out the bottom even if you are only needing to pull the motor as per recommended by ALL THE REPAIR MANUALS and ONLINE INFORMATION by other rav4 owners.

Another key information that I was not able to find online and may be useful for others is that the timing chain cover for the 2az-fe from 2007 scion tc is exactly the same as the one on the 1az-fe so I didn't even need to swap that out. I did, however, swapped one of the bolts (first hole toward the firewall on the timing chain cover where the engine mount is bolted to) because the rav4's bolt is shorter.

On the 2AZ-FE itself, I've changed the valve cover gasket, cleaned the ocv and the filter, replaced both the front and rear main seals, pcv valve, replaced the intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, and use new denso spark plugs.

I will try to post pictures that I took but they are not in any order or so when I took them. If you need to see a comparison of some parts on the two engines, let me know and I will take pics for those. Any questions, let me know. And sorry for the whole wall of texts. I just hope it can help someone down the road as I was not able to find much answers to my questions before I pulled the trigger...
I will try to post pictures that I took but they are not in any order or so when I took them. If you need to see a comparison of some parts on the two engines, let me know and I will take pics for those.
Any pics?
 

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I am about to do the same

Do you have pics?
I am about to do a 1az swap for swap.
I will take it out the top and is an auto.
The current motor has a rod knock and had bearing bits in the oil from number 1.
Sounds like crap, but still runs , just!
The donor engine had a head gasket issue, so maybe use the old head and other bits to the new block.
Not sure what else I can salvage yet until it is out.
I will take pictures of my progress.
Not going to drop it as I do not have a hoist and my helper is my 11 year old daughter.
Will keep you all posted.
 

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Hi XeyesY, thanks for the description about how to take off the motor. Yesterday my Rav4 3door with 1az fse motor "blew up", one of the cylinder have no compression, and the others have 120psi aprox. So, tomorrow I will see the condition of the motor. I hope no big deal. If you have some pics of your work, it will be great to see.
I think is the same to do the swap from 1az-fse (direct injection) to 2az-fe. If SB have some suggestions for me, I would appreciate.
PD: Sorry for my english but I'm trying to do my best.
Greetings from Perú.
 

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-Only the knock sensor, engine coolant temperature sensor, and one more sensor (don't know the name) will need to be swapped over due to having different engine harness connectors.
-Intake manifold (including the throttle body) and Exhaust manifold were from the 1AZ
It looks like I may be doing this swap soon as well due to stripped head bolts on a 2003 1AZ. Don't know if the OP is still on here but does anyone know if there is still a place on the newer engines to fit the 1AZ knock sensor? It appears to be a completely different sensor, mounted in a different location engines after 2004.
 
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