No replies so far but I just messaged 3 different people who have done this to find out the pros and cons. If I end up doing this does anybody want a detailed write up? I will probably document the whole thing with lots of pics and may do a step by step. I would love to contribute to the board.

 

I look forward to reading what you find. We have a 2nd gen and I think the wife wants it for the long haul. Picturing a rebuild or swap a few years down the road.

 

If I were you, given some of the opinions on this board, I'd put another 2.0L in. Some members report high oil consumption issues with the 2.4L and headgasket issues. It'd be easy to pull the 1AZFE and swap another in, so why not just do that? If you keep oil in it, it's a very solid engine!

 

Yeah, I would honestly prefer a stock for stock swap. The only inhibitor here is cost or time. I just don't want to get a used motor without a warranty and hope that it is in good condition.

I was not aware of the issues with the 2.4 though. It will be fully rebuilt so I don't imagine the headgasket will be an issue before my mother-in-law ditches it for something new. As far as oil consumption goes....I will do some research.

Thanks for the input and I will make sure to update this thread with whatever happens.

*edit* I looked up the TSB on the 2az-fe oil consumption. It sounds like it is due to a faulty piston assembly from the factory. The rebuilder is using all new rings and pistons so I doubt it will have the same problem. I will make sure to have my in-laws break it in on conventional oil and get the rings set. I think we will probably move ahead with the 2.4 swap.

 

I will be attempting this swap over the coming weekend. Picking up the 2azfe on wednesday.

I am a little stressed since I am mostly familiar with longitudinally mounted motors. Does anybody have any specific tips on removal? Some say to drop it out the bottom with the entire cradle but I don't have a lift. I am using an engine hoist. Seems like lifting it out with the tranny still attached is going to be best?

I will try to avoid removing the power steering and the AC since I don't want to have to deal with refilling/charging of those systems.

So plan of attack will be to actually remove the intake manifold first and then pull motor and tranny. Sound good?

Any special tools or sockets I should have?

Thanks in advance!

 

2AZFE SWAP





Disconnect drive shafts, four bolts and steering rack and top engine mounts and all connections and drop it out bottom

 

Today is the day. I picked up the 2az yesterday along with an oil pump. The guy who rebuilt the motor also included the remaining gaskets from the master gasket kit.

I removed a few things last night like the intake and the battery. Hopefully I will get this thing done today. If not, I will just have to finish it tomorrow. I am hoping that things go well. I spent some time yesterday reading up on procedures like installing the timing set.

I will report back here when done.

 

Right on. Let me know how it goes. I'm considering doing the same swap to my 2001 Rav4.

 

Well it took me all day to get the motor and tranny out. I pulled from the top which honestly is way more complicated than dropping out the bottom. Now that it's out though, I think the hardest part is done. I spent a good amount of time chasing around trying to find a 30mm 12 point socket too.

I bought a longblock but it is about as bare of a longblock as I've ever heard of. I need to transfer over pretty much everything from the 1aze including the lower engine block that covers the crank, the timing assembly, all ancillaries etc.

It was pretty obvious why the 1azfe died. The oil pan had about an inch of brown sludge in the bottom. No metal shavings were in the oil, just big chunks of the #3 rod. I am actually impressed the poor thing didn't give out sooner.

I probably won't finish this weekend but have another long weekend coming where I can come finish it.

If anybody is in the Fresno/Clovis area I would love a helping hand. This is a much bigger job than I had anticipated. I guess I've been spoiled working on Subarus lol

 

I find Subarus pretty similar being AWD and all. A clutch job on one is a marathon compared to a FWD/RWD car. I have access to a PDF Service Manual if you need something to follow during the reassembly. Let me know, I can make is accessible somehow.

 

Thanks, I downloaded one from this site already and I bought a chilton.

Glad to hear you're off to a good start, post some pics!

They're coming. I didn't have much time for anything yesterday as I was stuck replacing my A/C Compressor in my van. Didn't want to put my family through a 3 hour drive in the 100 degree heat. Unfortunately I think the expansion valve needs replacing as well.

I decided to bring all the parts from the old motor that I needed back to my place and finish assembling the longblock. I will go back to Fresno this coming weekend and attempt to finish the job. I think I will probably drop the subframe and re-install this thing properly.

 

Glad to hear you're off to a good start, post some pics!

 

Well I was convinced to wait to finish this til after finals. That will be in two weeks. In the meantime I have been making some progress with assembly of the new motor. I have pics but am too lazy to upload right now.

My current dilemma is that I was test fitting the oil pan yesterday and it seems that the 1azfe oil pan is not going to work with the 2azfe oil pump. It makes contact with the pickup just barely preventing it from fitting. This got me wondering if the 2azfe has a larger oil capacity so I went and found this info for each motor.

Do not use the 1az oil pan with the 2az oil pump. It will fit but it will block the pickup and you will get no oil pressure!!! I found out that the 1az pump is sufficient and will work fine in the 2az


1az-fe
Oil capacity
Drain and refill w/ Oil filter change 4.2 liters (4.4 US qts, 3.7 lmp. qts)
Drain and refill w/o Oil filter change 4.0 liters (4.2 US qts, 3.5 lmp. qts)
Dry fill 4.9 liters (5.2 US qts, 4.3 lmp. qts)

2az-fe
Oil capacity
Drain and refill w/ oil filter change - 3.8 liters (4.0 US qts, 3.3 lmp. qts)
Drain and refill w/o oil filter change - 3.6 liters (3.8 US qts, 3.2 lmp. qts)
Dry fill - 4.5 liters (4.8 US qts, 4.0 lmp. qts)

Now I'm a little confused since the 1az does have a greater oil capacity. Must simply be two different designs of the pan.

 

Picture Update

Okay, so here come the pictures you have been waiting for. This is a little overview of the process of final assembly of the long block.

Lower crank case on

This is what I use to clean up mating surfaces. It works amazingly well and is fast.

before

after

Timing assembly on

One of the valve cover studs was missing so I needed a bolt. This one was laying around but was too long so I made a ******* vice and cut it off.

That's better

In its new home

Cleaning up the oil pan

Done!

 

Finals will be over in a week from today. I will head straight to my in-laws house and start getting this thing back together.

 

Mate! So sorry I didn't log in in the last month, seems like I could have saved you some trouble with removing the old engine



I just finished up rebuilding my 1az due to similar reasons (like literally last night) I had the option to go 2az but a rebuild was the safest bet for me since I'm with the van for a long haul.


Good job so far

 

No worries. I knew that was the recommended procedure but didn't think it feasible without a lift. I'll upload a pic that shows why the 1az could not be rebuilt. It has a nice hole in the side where the loose rod end smacked it. It was pretty catastrophic.

 

Tomorrow I am heading down to the in-laws. Hopefully this thing will be done by the end of Monday.

 

I didn't have much time to work on the car yesterday but I did get the sub-frame removed. I don't think I'm going to pull the wiring harness since it seems unnecessary at this point. I won't be working on it until Monday so more updates will follow then.

 

So I managed to lose one of the flex plate bolts which the Toyota dealership will have for me tomorrow morning. I spent most of my day trying to fix problems created by the engine rebuilder.

The rebuilt engine was missing quite a few of the studs and dowel pins and such which isn't a huge deal since I can pull all of that off the old motor. The one thing that made me pretty upset today was that the press in water pipe that comes off the back of the head was not on the new head.

So I attempted to remove the one from the old head and ended up mangling it. I called Toyota and they don't sell that part separately, it only comes with the head.

This is what I did to remedy the situation. It ended up only costing less than $20 which is a lot cheaper than my other options.

The fitting had to be tapped in very firmly so it probably would have been fine without any sealer but that's not how I'm built :wink:

This is what I used for peace of mind.

I had to also reduce the 1/2" fitting down to the original 3/8" as well. Here is the final product.

 

Lunchtime Update

I am taking a break and thought I would update my progress. The motor and tranny along with the subframe are now installed. I just need to re-attach everything and fill her with fluids. That should take me the rest of the day working at a steady pace.

 

Help, car won't crank after motor install!

Well the car is completely back together minus the intake. I planned to keep the injectors unplugged and spark plugs removed until I was able to build oil pressure.

Unfortunately I cannot even get the car to turn over. The car is having some very strange "symptoms".

1. The P,2, L indicators in the gauge cluster are lit even when the key is out of the ignition.
2. The alarm won't work with the remotes, but arms and disarms when unlocking or locking the doors with the key.
3. When the ignition is off and you rock the car backward and forward, the door locks constantly try to unlock

I am not very savvy with electrical systems. I did try to take the fuse box apart in order to pull the wiring harness but failed to get it apart. I have looked at the fuses inside and under the hood and can't find any that have been blown.

I scanned for engine codes but only got one for the MAF (it is unplugged)

I also tried adjusting the shock sensor to see if the door locks would stop cycling but that didn't work.

I'm pretty frustrated at this point and would love to just burn this thing to the ground. I'm trying to keep my cool since I am doing this to help the in-laws.

Anybody have any ideas?

 

When you have multiple weird problems like that its normally due to a grounding issue.

Make sure youve bolted/screwed all grounding wires & straps onto the chassis properly.
Make sure none are loose and they have a clean connection.

 

Grrrrr... dont post in more than one place!

I see i was right though

 

^ Sorry, I wanted an answer to a specific problem and it was time sensitive.

I was not able to get oil pressure. I even pulled the oil pressure switch and had someone crank it. No pressure. I also pulled the valve cover and the head was dry, other than the oil I had poured in.

I told my in-laws to take it to a mechanic. I am not able to continue working on it. Hopefully the mechanic can find the issue and the bearings are still okay.

 

1AZ TO 2AZ SWAP

I LIKE WHAT I AM READING. I HAVE INSERTED THE ENGINE ALREADY. WHAT I WANT TO KNOW HOW CAN I EFFECTIVELY USE THE EXSISTING WIRE LOOM ALONG WITH A 2AZFE COMPUTER. THERE ARE TWO SENSORS THAT MY LOOM HAS NO CONNECTION FOR ONE TO THE UPPER RIGHT TOP CORNER AT THE BACK AND TWO SENSORS NEAR TRANNY
ANY ASSISTANCE WOULD BE GREAT.

 

I LIKE WHAT I AM READING. I HAVE INSERTED THE ENGINE ALREADY. WHAT I WANT TO KNOW HOW CAN I EFFECTIVELY USE THE EXSISTING WIRE LOOM ALONG WITH A 2AZFE COMPUTER. THERE ARE TWO SENSORS THAT MY LOOM HAS NO CONNECTION FOR ONE TO THE UPPER RIGHT TOP CORNER AT THE BACK AND TWO SENSORS NEAR TRANNY
ANY ASSISTANCE WOULD BE GREAT.

I would not bother with the 2az-fe computer. Just use the 1az-fe computer. That is what I did. I was not able to run it long enough to actually say that it works properly so I will post an update once the oil pressure situation is resolved.

 

1AZ-2AZ Swap

Hey thanks for the info i did just that. i tried the 2az computer and got a check engine light reading because there was no connection for VVTI sensor.
Also my computer messed up my trany. havent been able to change it.
but what i want to find out will i have any issue with the performance of the VAN without the VVTI sensor not connected.

 

Hey thanks for the info i did just that. i tried the 2az computer and got a check engine light reading because there was no connection for VVTI sensor.
Also my computer messed up my trany. havent been able to change it.
but what i want to find out will i have any issue with the performance of the VAN without the VVTI sensor not connected.

Can't help you with that. Not even sure what the VAN is.

The mechanics have figured out the oil starvation issue. The oil pickup of the 2az-fe pump was too close to the 1az-fe pan. The clearance was so tight once the oil pan was on that it completely occluded the opening.

They will be installing a new pan from a 2az so hopefully that is the end of the story. I asked if they thought the bearings were still okay and they said yes.

Either way we will find out soon.

 

On a Subaru, as well as the old RX 7s, it was easier to pull the Engine, rater than the Transmission. Is it still that way, or have they made it easier to pull the Transmission?

 

The layout is still the same so I imagine nothing has changed.

 

Geronimo

How's this engine swap going..up and running yet ?