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The new 2.5 liter (2AR-FE) engine uses a CARTRIDGE type oil filter.

[If any of you have PART NUMBERS for this process... please let us know and we will add this information.]

1. DRAIN ENGINE OIL

(a) Remove the oil filler cap.



(b) Remove the oil pan drain plug and gasket, and drain the engine oil into a container.

2. REMOVE OIL FILTER CAP ASSEMBLY



(a) Connect a hose with an inside diameter of 15 mm (0.591 in.) to the pipe.



(b) Remove the oil filter drain plug.



(c) Install the pipe to the oil filter cap.

If the O-ring is removed with the drain plug, install the O-ring together with the pipe.

Use a container to catch the draining oil.



(d) Check that the oil is drained from the oil filter. Then disconnect the pipe as shown in the illustration and remove the O-ring.



(e) Using SST*, remove the oil filter cap.
(*SST = Special Service Tool: #09228-06501)

Do not remove the oil filter bracket clip.



(f) Remove the oil filter element and O-ring from the oil filter cap.

Be sure to remove the cap O-ring by hand, without using any tools, to prevent damage to the cap O-ring groove.


3. INSTALL OIL FILTER CAP ASSEMBLY

(a) Clean the inside of the oil filter cap, its threads and its O-ring groove.



(b) Apply a small amount of engine oil to a new O-ring and install it to the oil filter cap.

(c) Set a new oil filter element into the oil filter cap.

(d) Remove any dirt or foreign matter from the installation surface of the engine.

(e) Apply a small amount of engine oil to the O-ring again and temporarily install the oil filter cap.



(f) Using SST, tighten the oil filter cap.
(*SST = Special Service Tool: #09228-06501)

Torque: 25 N·m (255 kgf·cm, 18 ft·lbf)

Make sure that the oil filter is installed securely as shown in the illustration.
Be careful that the O-ring does not get caught between any surrounding parts.


(g) Apply a small amount of engine oil to a new drain plug O-ring, and install it to the oil filter cap.

Before installing the O-ring, remove any dirt or foreign matter from the installation surface of the oil filter cap.



(h) Install the oil filter drain plug.

Torque: 13 N·m (127 kgf·cm, 9 ft·lbf)

Be careful that the O-ring does not get caught between any surrounding parts.

4. ADD ENGINE OIL

(a) Clean and install a new gasket and the oil pan drain plug.

Torque: 40 N·m (408 kgf·cm, 30 ft·lbf)

(b) Add new oil.

Standard Oil Grade:

ILSAC multigrade engine oil
0W-20 or 5W-20
(0W-20 is the best choice for fuel economy and good starting in cold weather.)

Standard Capacity:

Drain and refill with oil filter change
4.4 liters (4.6 US qts, 3.9 Imp. qts)

Drain and refill without oil filter change
4.0 liters (4.2 US qts, 3.5 Imp. qts)

Dry fill
5.7 liters (6.0 US qts, 5.0 Imp. qts)

(c) Install the oil filler cap.

5. INSPECT FOR OIL LEAK

(a) Start the engine. Make sure that there are no oil leaks from the areas that were worked on.

6. INSPECT ENGINE OIL LEVEL
 

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Is there something else that can be used in replace of that special service tool? I always change all my own oil and filters in both vehicles and bikes but have never changed one with the removable filter. Is this hard to do? Also, I saw where they recommended the weight of the oil to be 5-20. I bought AMSOIL in the weight of 5-30 before I read this. Do you think that should be OK? I live in North Carolina.
 

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Standard Capacity:

Drain and refill with oil filter change
4.4 liters (4.6 US qts, 3.9 Imp. qts)
....
Dry fill
5.7 liters (6.0 US qts, 5.0 Imp. qts)
Wow. The implication is that 1.3 liters (1.4 US quarts) of oil stays behind when draining oil. That's a lot more than I would have guessed.
 

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Carbon said:
Standard Capacity:

Drain and refill with oil filter change
4.4 liters (4.6 US qts, 3.9 Imp. qts)
....
Dry fill
5.7 liters (6.0 US qts, 5.0 Imp. qts)
Wow. The implication is that 1.3 liters (1.4 US quarts) of oil stays behind when draining oil. That's a lot more than I would have guessed.
Also, that is a lot of oil for I4. This engine should be easy on oil. If I had this one I would run 5W20 or 0W20 with no fear (operating oil temp is probably lowish).

BTW, is this the same cartridge as in the V6 engine.
 

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Had i known they went to this type filter i would have thought twice about buying the new 2010 model. Is this to keep up from doing it ourself? thanks for the info on how to do it
 

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guzzi said:
Had i known they went to this type filter i would have thought twice about buying the new 2010 model. Is this to keep up from doing it ourself? thanks for the info on how to do it
Cartridge filters are more environmentally friendly, because you are only discarding the element and not the metal casing. In reality, it is no different than a metal spin-on type filter. The real only extra step is to remove the old element and put in a new one. You have to unscrew and screw on the cartridge, just like a spin-on filter, and that the cartridge has a way to drain the oil means it is a lot less messy of an oil change than to unscrew a spin-on filter and have it dribble out the oil in the filter itself and in the passage leading to the spin-on filter.
 

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So you are saying toyota did this all for the sake of the envirenment right? So i suppose then they did that will all their differnent models right? Yeah right.
 

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rav4two said:
guzzi said:
Had i known they went to this type filter i would have thought twice about buying the new 2010 model. Is this to keep up from doing it ourself? thanks for the info on how to do it
Cartridge filters are more environmentally friendly, because you are only discarding the element and not the metal casing. In reality, it is no different than a metal spin-on type filter. The real only extra step is to remove the old element and put in a new one. You have to unscrew and screw on the cartridge, just like a spin-on filter, and that the cartridge has a way to drain the oil means it is a lot less messy of an oil change than to unscrew a spin-on filter and have it dribble out the oil in the filter itself and in the passage leading to the spin-on filter.
More environmentally friendly... ahuh..... wouldn't have anything to do with: lower material cost = smae purchase price = more profits???? not everything is done for "green" reasons.....
 

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If toyota's reason for the "new" filter was to be green then i suppose soon they will drop all fully gas model cars soon huh? Seems to me if it is such a green idea that they would want to shout the idea and advertiese it in their comercials. Wonder why not. Maybe people might figure out they would have to take it back to a dealer for a oil change? I am older and i seem to remember that design being around in my early cars where there was a cartridge inside a steel case. If you put the filter verticle and not in a horrible place their is no spill of oil as you unscrew it. Also you can then put oil in the filter as you put it on so the engine isn't deprived of a empty filter starting back up. Many cars now have that design. I think it is Subaru that advertises as the greenest reclyclable total car but they advertise it that way. Don't get me wrong i love my toyota's as i own three but when they make a bad move at least you can call it for what it is. Bad for the average do it yourself oil changer. Part of the reason some do it yourself isn't just the savings but the convience and also too many dealer can't be trusted to do it right.
 

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It's not just Toyota. The new Chevy Equinox uses the same type of filter. I'm betting some of the new Ford engines do as well.
 

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Yes and look where those ideas took Chevy. I used to buy nothing but chevrolets for lots of years until i tried my first toyota. Does Ford and Chevy dominate the car industry? think not. I will say Ford had done a better job than the rest. Is really a shame our American auto industry didn't do a better job. I am probably one of the biggest buy American person's out there but comes to a point of value for my hard earned dollar and dependability.
 

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guzzi, you might want to read this:

http://www.filtercouncil.org/techdata/tsbs/00-2.pdf

and also this:

http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m0FZX/is_10_67/ai_92586550/

from a manufacturer of retrofit kits. See especially this paragraph:

Designed to allow a variety of gasoline and diesel engines to covert from a standard metal spin-on disposable canister to a premium cartridge oil filter, the Racor Division of Parker Hannifin Corp. has introduced the LFS 300 series oil filter retrofit kits. In response to filter disposal becoming an important environmental issue, Racor said the LFS 300 kits feature a crushable, burnable replacement cartridge element.

More such citations are easily found.

I also don't see what you think is so much more difficult with a cartridge style filter. What extra steps do you need to take with changing the oil and filter in any vehicle with a cartridge filter make it such an onerous and un-doable task?
 

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Guess i don't see where the pipe and valve comes from to put in the end of the oil filter housing. Is that something we have to buy? As far as the above post i appreciate the enlightening but as far as them makeing filter cartridges standard size, couldn't they have engineered that princiapal years ago with not so many sizes of even spin on filters? Motorcycle industry was guilty of this also. We all know the engineers could very easily located a filter about anywhere as there are many filter relocation aftermarket kits to be found. I do appreciate the info on how to change the oil but don't completely understand the pipe thing. Over the years i have probably at least 6 different size filter wrenches for all the filter changes they have made that were totally unessesarry. Wrong? Now i have three different filters for three 4 cyl toyota engines. But i guess now it is all going to change to something more standard and simple. We shall see. Don't mean to sound ungrateful or spitefull but i am doubtfull of the industry makeing things better for the consumer. Thanks again and please take all this lightly as i like the brand of vehicle a lot.
 

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guzzi, the plastic connector that goes into the filter to drain the canister comes with every filter element. By pressing it into the bottom of the canister, the oil immediately starts to drain. You can add a length of tubing to the bottom to help direct it more cleanly into your oil catch pan, but I didn't and though I had the Rav up on an 8" high ramp, it didn't splatter when hitting the catch pan.

You then just twist and bend the connector a bit and it pops out. The valve that it opened automatically closes.

If you have a number of filter wrenches already, this will probably be the thing that frustrates you the most. The canister is supposed to take a 65mm filter wrench, but the one that Toyota sells is slightly undersized and won't fit on there unless you hammer it on, which makes it almost impossible to take off. Toyota also sells one that has an inner 65 mm section and an outer 67 mm section, but this is a slightly loose fit, loose to the point where it doesn't feel good.

So, I had the Rav up on the ramps with the oil drained out and can't get the 65 mm filter tool to fit. I drive another car back to the dealer, and he takes the tool back to the mechanics who change the oil. He brings back what they use, which is basically the same tool but obviously hammered on and flared so it fits. A microcaliper shows there's 64.5 mm of spacing in the new 65 mm tool.

Grrr. . .
 

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guzzi said:
Guess i don't see where the pipe and valve comes from to put in the end of the oil filter housing. Is that something we have to buy?
The "pipe" is plastic, and comes with the filter. The optional hose is not included. The valve is built in to the reusable cap. A screw, the oil filter drain plug, is removed to use the "pipe".

As far as I can tell, the oil filter drain plug is typically not removed in most commercial oil changes. Instead the oil comes out when the big cap is removed. I wonder how often the oil filter cap is just dropped into the collection basin, fished out, and --you would hope-- is wiped down. Some worry that the oil filter drain plug's O-ring is not changed when this alternate procedure is followed. Some don't worry, figuring that the ring is changed due to potential wear rather than age.

Clearly there is more work with the cartridge. Steps 2a, 2b, 2c 2d, 3a, 3b, and 3c have no equivalent when using a spin-on filter.
 

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Thank you for explaining the valve and hose. Makes perfect sense until you tell me the tool doesn't fit. Now don't tell me you were not a bit frustrated at that point. Would have been simple to make something metric where a large allen or even a socket fits. Wonder what the explaination toyota engineers have for the tool error. I would think some aftermarket will come out with something that fits sooner or later. It does get frustateing and not just auto industy. Star motorcyle made a 1100 cruiser just a year or so ago and may still that every time you change the filter you have to take the header pipe off the engine. That drives up the cost of an oil change due to the few hrs labor involved. Good endineering? Where is the quality control of the tool dept.? Glad you told me as i will wait until i hear from someone that a proper tool is made before i attempt to do the oil change myself. Thus my skeptisizm of makeing things better for us. Keep us posted if you find a tool that actually fits so others don't face the same problem you did.
 

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After i thought about it i think you are telling me the inner dia of the wrench doesn't fit well. Would a strap type with the socket on the side work to take it off. I have one of those also for one motorcycle that has the filter too close to the header pipes to get most filter cap wrenches on it. Time will sort out the right wrench from someone. Probably China
 

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guzzi said:
After i thought about it i think you are telling me the inner dia of the wrench doesn't fit well. Would a strap type with the socket on the side work to take it off. I have one of those also for one motorcycle that has the filter too close to the header pipes to get most filter cap wrenches on it. Time will sort out the right wrench from someone. Probably China
No strap. Oil filter and cap are identical with V-6 engine. See http://rav4world.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=4195&postdays=0&postorder=asc&&start=31 and other posts before and after that discussing wrenches.
 
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