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Just to share my experience on oil change of my RAV4 4cyl Base 2009.
The first time I did the oil change (of course I changed filer as well) I put 4.5 Qt (US) of oil. But when I checked the oil level with Normal Operation Temp ( you need to drive 20 miles, put car on leveled surface or garage, wait at least 5 min, and then check the level), it was about 3 mm above the “Full” mark on the dipstick. I am sure that I drained all possible oil as I let oil to be drained about 40 min AFTER I removed the filter. And before I removed the filer I let oil to drain for 90 min.
So the second time I did the oil change I put 4.25 Qt (US) of oil. Meaning 0.25 less. And now the level with Normal Operation Temp is right at “Full” mark on the dipstick.
Therefore I believe that recommendation in the manual 4.6 Qt (US) is not correct.
I just believe the dipstick – as the is the main and the only tool we have to check the oil level.
Does anybody did oil change himself and had same experience?
 

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Anybody said:
Just to share my experience on oil change of my RAV4 4cyl Base 2009.
The first time I did the oil change (of course I changed filer as well) I put 4.5 Qt (US) of oil. But when I checked the oil level with Normal Operation Temp ( you need to drive 20 miles, put car on leveled surface or garage, wait at least 5 min, and then check the level), it was about 3 mm above the “Full” mark on the dipstick. I am sure that I drained all possible oil as I let oil to be drained about 40 min AFTER I removed the filter. And before I removed the filer I let oil to drain for 90 min.
So the second time I did the oil change I put 4.25 Qt (US) of oil. Meaning 0.25 less. And now the level with Normal Operation Temp is right at “Full” mark on the dipstick.
Therefore I believe that recommendation in the manual 4.6 Qt (US) is not correct.
I just believe the dipstick – as the is the main and the only tool we have to check the oil level.
Does anybody did oil change himself and had same experience?
I have not done it myself. Have you tried parking in the same place facing the other way to see if you get a slightly different reading? Few places are absolutely level.

When I have the dealer change mine in the V6, it does take less oil, which I provide, than the manual lists. I thought maybe letting the oil drip for an hour myself could make a difference.
 

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As I said – oil was drained for over 2 hours … So most of it was gone.
I tried to park both ways in my garage and it did not make real difference. In fact slightly under/over inflated back/front tires would lead to the same possible discrepancy.
Frankly I am not surprised – my 1996 Camry takes 0.5 Qt less than it’s recommended in manual, but 1997 Corolla was taken 0.25 more than it’s recommended in manual.
In fact my concern is – How accurate are Toyota’s dipsticks?
 

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Where can this Toyota SST be purchased and at what cost?
Also, I would like to change to full synthetic oil. Is an oil system flush necessary?
 

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Draining the oil and adding new does not have to be a complicated and so precise thing. Do this and you will be fine. Let engine sit for 5 minutes drain oil for a few minutes, all the replaceable oil will be out by then. Fill with the five quart container, a bit extra oil won't hurt a thing. Start engine check for leaks and you are done in 15 minutes, enjoy the rest of your day.
 

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The first time I wanted to do an oil change, I found that my vast collection of wrenches didn't have quite the right size. I just ordered the "right" one through Amazon - it has high ratings. If it's a 65/67MM wrench, will it work without cutting off the beginning 67MM section? There are posts saying the 67MM section prevented it from fitting down to the 65MM needed for our application. My next concern is the amount of oil to add. The instructions above say 4.4 qts. if changing the oil and filter. If you look at the V-6 version, it says to fill the filter before installing it. I would think they'd be the same technique. I also don't know what a "dry" fill would be. That's a difference of 1.6qts of oil. Do you guys use the 4.4qt. amount?
EDIT: I bought the filter wrench that got such great reviews on Amazon. It also got rave reviews here on the RAV4 World forums. Well, I'm here to tell you I am livid about the POS!!! It doesn't fit!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I even tried tapping it on with a hammer and it won't go on. If this is the best out there and it won't fit, now what do I do? Am I forced to go to the dealer for all of my oil changes? I have a freebie coming to me and I'm on vacation this week, so, I have to make an appointment and dump the new oil I just put in so they can change the ****** filter! Maybe I can tell them the oil is new and they can just replace the filter for me. While I'm there, I had better try to get yet another filter wrench, which I'm sure will be astronomical in price, and they can make sure it fits before I leave with it.
EDIT#2:
I took my RAV to the dealer for the free oil change. I also went to the parts department to buy a new filter wrench that I could try while the RAV was up in the air. The guy told me there is a difference between the 65/67MM spin-on filter wrench and the 65MM "new" style. They were on order and should be in after next Friday. They were even cheaper than the K-D one I bought at ~$6.
 

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I did the 1st oil change on my RAV today. Thanks for the info. I went down to the dealer and bought the filter and filter wrench ($13).
 

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Shinsen774 said:
My '64 MGB has the replaceable cartridge oil filter. The concept is not new.
A Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oil_filter#Cartridge_and_spin-on says
In the mid-1950s, the spin-on oil filter design was introduced: a self-contained housing and element assembly which was to be unscrewed from its mount, discarded, and replaced with a new one. This made filter changes more convenient and potentially less messy, and quickly came to be the dominant type of oil filter installed by the world's automakers. Conversion kits were offered for vehicles originally equipped with cartridge-type filters.[5] In the 1990s, European and Asian automakers in particular began to shift back in favor of replaceable-element filter construction, because it generates less waste with each filter change. American automakers have likewise begun to shift to replaceable-cartridge filters, and retrofit kits to convert from spin-on to cartridge-type filters are offered for popular applications.
 

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Any chance in getting these pictures posted back up or can someone direct me to a sight where I can see the pictures?

Thanks
 

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Any chance in getting these pictures posted back up or can someone direct me to a sight where I can see the pictures?

Thanks
I fixed the pictures in the original post. Hope this helps!
 
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