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Am currently working on an oil leak on a 2000 RAV4 4 cylinder automatic with a friend (looks like a crank seal, or something else under the front timing cover), we bought one of the repair manuals at the local Parts Source store to follow.

The repair manual states that we remove the Automatic Transmission Inspection Cover and use a bar to stop the engine from rotating (assuming against the starter gear on the flywheel), however there is no picture of said Inspection Cover in the manual. Does anyone have a picture of which cover they are referring too that we could follow? We are trying to remove as few things as possible given the age of the vehicle so we don't break bolts/parts, etc.

Also, can anyone please tell me what size bolts (length and thread pitch) are used to pull the pulley off the crank (there are two threaded bolt holes in the pulley itself).

Thanks
 

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I don't like using any kind of a bar in the starter ring teeth it stop an engine. When that's necessary I use a wooden block.
I remove the crank pulley bolt with an impact wrench instead.
 

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Thanks for the reply, I appreciate it.

We did try using an impact gun but the bolt will not budge, will try again though and maybe we will get lucky.

I see that some people have made a tool that bolts to the two pulley bolts and allows a hollow piece of tube to be used to hold it in place while using a bar to undo the nut. If worse comes to worse I will make up something like this and forget about jamming the starting ring gear (I agree with you that it is not good to mess with it if you don't have to).

We shall soldier on.
 

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Did I mention I use my 3/4" Ingersoll-Rand impact wrench and make sure it's set for the right direction?
 

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I had to buy a heavy duty impact gun years ago just for this specific job! Now it is the only one I use. Was from Sears -- get one while you can.
Yeah, that's why I bought my expensive I-R probably 15+ years ago now. Was kinda shocked when it didn't remove the bolt I intended it for. A friend said it probably wasn't getting enough air. Now it has it's own larger hose and sits coiled up just waiting for those "impossible" bolts.
 

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I have a 3/4" HF gun for the really stuck stuff.

Did you try the breaker bar trick? You put your socket on the crank shaft bolt, breaker bar on the socket, rest the breaker bar against the frame, ground, whatever, something that doesn't move, crank the motor. The bolt will come right out.

Otherwise, the plate they are talking about is just behind the oil pan, in front of the flywheel, at the bell housing.
 

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1999 Toyota RAV4 with 3MZ-FE 6 cylinder engine, camo wrap, OME lift, heavily modded
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I have a 3/4" HF gun for the really stuck stuff.

Did you try the breaker bar trick? You put your socket on the crank shaft bolt, breaker bar on the socket, rest the breaker bar against the frame, ground, whatever, something that doesn't move, crank the motor. The bolt will come right out.

Otherwise, the plate they are talking about is just behind the oil pan, in front of the flywheel, at the bell housing.
This trick works on just about every car out there.
 

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When I did my timing belt replacement on my 98 I ended up buying a 1/2" electric impact from Lowe's and it took it off in seconds. Once the bolt was off the pulley should slide right off for you, mine I had to wiggle ever so slightly but if it is really on there I would recommend a harmonic balancer puller. Just look up the thread size for your specific pulley.
 
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