Toyota RAV4 Forums banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, it's been a while since i been on here but i recently had a 2003 rav4 L. i sold it now i bought a 2001 Rav4 4x2 to fix up. it has a slight issue it won't shift past 2nd gear and no reverse. The car goes into drive and i can drive i but won't kick into reverse. It acts like it wants to but doesn't. The check engine read a code for solenoid A and B. However toyota does not list a A or B they have a 3 way solenoid a lockout and pressure. I am a aware of the ecu issue as well but my question is what do you guys think it could be. If no reverse is it really a solenoid or would the faulty ecu's these car's have be what's causing the whole issue. I already bought a new transfilter and fluid just wondering when i drop the pan which solenoid i need to check. Any advice will help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
after my RAV4 started stuttering, I got a refurb ecu and installed it. It was fine for a bit, then acted up even worse and popped some codes, P0758 - Shift Solenoid "B" Electrical.

They sent me a second ecu and things have been fine since.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Ok i pulled the trans filter pan and drained out old trans fluid. There was a bunch of metal in the transmission filter. Is that a bad thing? I also seen some metal pieces in the bottom of the pan. I'm ruling out of it needs a new trans bc it still will not go in reverse. When i put it in reverse it jumps rally hard like it's trying to kick in and out of reverse. I assume the trans is junk?
 

·
Registered
2004 Rav4 L 4wd, 2005 Galactic gray 4runner V6 4wd
Joined
·
393 Posts
It appears you drove the car for a long time with the famous ecu issue...thus your tranny may have been damaged.
Get a new/refurbished issue to solve the problem..and if the issue persists after draining the tranny fluid..then it means your tranny is damaged..and you need to get a new tranny
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
2002 Rav4 Tranmission no 3rd, 4th or reverse fix

I had the same issue on my moms car. The ECU was shifting wrong for too long and eventually messed up the transmission to where she did not have 3rd, 4th or reverse. I kept getting told I was going to have to pay $4000-$5000 to have the transmission rebuilt by tranny shops. With a little research, some luck and some faith I went upon the following fix. Keep in mind, I have never worked on a transmission and I cannot promise you yours will be broken the same way, but if it helps you then I thought I would pass on my experience.

I tried to post links to where I got the parts and the videos that helped me, but the site won't allow me since I am new. If you want to try this, message me and I will send the links I guess.

First, make sure you get a reworked ECU otherwise it doesn't matter if the transmission itself is working as it should.
Drop the transmission pan to get all the fluid and metal shavings out.
Jack up the front drivers side of the car.
Remove the front drivers wheel.
At this point you should be able to see the back of the transmission
There is a rear cover on the transmission that you can remove without dropping the transmission at all.
See this video on YouTube for a walk-through. Even though he has the tranny out, you can do with part with it still in. Start around 3 minutes in

link removed

Once you have the cover removed, you will see the Direct Drum
See below link for order of parts along with part numbers to help you along

link removed

Remove the inner fluid tube as shown in the youtube video
Now you should be able to pull on the Direct Drum (555 in diagram) and it should slide out. In my case, the clutch pack inside this drum was completely shredded and the rear Sun Gear (575 in diagram) came out together which is fine.
Since the clutch pack that goes between the Direct Drum and the Sun Gear was so far gone, both the Direct Drum and Sun Gear itself where banged up and needed to be replaced along with the clutch pack. Looking further into the transmission, it didn't look like anything else was damaged. The next clutch pack seemed fine and nothing looked torn up.

I was lucky and able to find a used Direct Drum for the U241E transmission on eBay that had the clutch pack (diagram 878 through 126) and piston (diagram 565) already inside it and ready to go. Otherwise you have to buy all the components separately and put together which isn't too difficult but finding all together was definitely a plus.

link removed

I also found the Sun Gear from here

link removed

Both together were less than $200, but it would be more I am sure if I wasn't able to find the Direct Drum used and all one piece.

Try to get all the metal shavings out if there are any you can see in transmission. Most should be on the magnets in the pan, but just get whatever you can out from anywhere you see them.

Make sure all bearings and washers are transferred from old gears or replaced. There was one inset on the Sun gear that doesn't look like it comes off, but it does.

To install the new Sun Gear I had to remove the next clutch pack from the transmission since it was easier than trying to line up all the gears as it twists into place. Removing the clutch pack is easy, just take the clip off like in the video and pull all the pieces out noting what orientation they are and in what order they go on. Good time to inspect that clutch pack. All my clutches still had writing on them, so they all seemed good to go. Once the clutch pack was out I was able to put the Sun gear in all the way. Now put the clutch pack back in the same order it was in until you get it all clipped back together.

Once you have that in, slide the Direct Drum back in lining up the teeth on the clutch inside it with the Sun gear. I'm skipping the step of putting together the clutch pack and piston inside the Direct Drum since I did not have to do it.
Once you have the Direct Drum on and pushed all the way in, you just have to replace the fluid tube and put the rear cover back on. I used a little transmission silicone to prevent leaks.
Put the clean pan back on and fill with fluid.

Drive it and see if the problem persists. Mine was fixed and shifted perfectly after not having 3rd, 4th or reverse at all.

It's possible only the clutch pack is toast and the hard parts are still good on yours, but my mom had driven it for a good while while messed up so I felt I need to replace them since it looked like they had been grinding together.


I really hope this helps. Like I said, I have never done anything with a transmission, but do consider myself to be on the more adept side of being a shade tree mechanic. I wanted to find a way to not have to spend $4k or drop the transmission and somehow was able.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
My Rav was doing the same thing so I had my ECM resoldered and flashed. Removed my side cover pulled the reverse drum sure enough my clutches were gone, my steels were burnt along with my hub w/Sun gear and a new piston kit because the hub and Sun gear got into the top of the piston . $259.00 later along with new filter and fluids I'm as good as new. Thanks so much for this post.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Looks like this fix has worked for at least 4 people. $259 is a whole lot better than the cost of a refurbed tranny. Best thing is you don't even have to drop the tranny out of the car. My mom's car is still running great a year later. If you are having the same issue, it's worth a shot to give this a try.

Glad to help.

I still have the links if anyone else needs them. And I can refer you to the others that have done this same based on my instructions in case they have any tips as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Hello, I am about to attempt this fix could you send me the links please to my email. I am new to this forum and it won’t let me type my email just yet

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
New to the forum and trying to learn how it all works but I could really use that link also, I have a 2001 Rav4 with no reverse, could you please help, thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Let's try posting this again with links. The links do get outdated after a while so message me if something doesn't work for you. A few other people on this forum have done this and I all seem to have had the same result as me with a correctly shifting transmission.

.....
You will need the ECU reworked either way. The hard parts will get destroyed again if you do not fix the ECU....

Here is the original post, with updates due to link changes. Only try this if you have a fair amount of competency when it comes to auto repair. I can only speak for myself when I explain what fixed my transmission. It is up to you to determine which of your parts need to be replaced. Might be the same, might be completely different. I hold no responsibility if you make it worse. I just wanted to spread the knowledge of what I did to hopefully help someone else in the same position.


I had the same issue on my moms car. The ECU was shifting wrong for too long and eventually messed up the transmission to where she did not have 3rd, 4th or reverse. I kept getting told I was going to have to pay $4000-$5000 to have the transmission rebuilt by tranny shops. With a little research, some luck and some faith I went upon the following fix. Keep in mind, I have never worked on a transmission and I cannot promise you yours will be broken the same way, but if it helps you then I thought I would pass on my experience.


First, make sure you get a reworked ECU otherwise it doesn't matter if the transmission itself is working as it should.
Drop the transmission pan to get all the fluid and metal shavings out.
Jack up the front drivers side of the car.
Remove the front drivers wheel.
At this point you should be able to see the back of the transmission
There is a rear cover on the transmission that you can remove without dropping the transmission at all.
See this video on YouTube for a walk-through. Even though he has the tranny out, you can do with part with it still in. Start around 3 minutes in


Once you have the cover removed, you will see the Direct Drum
See below links for order of parts along with part numbers to help you along

https://www.wittrans.com/parts?type=U140E&section=222_cover


http://natpronet.com/trans/U140.pdf


Remove the inner fluid tube as shown in the youtube video
Now you should be able to pull on the Direct Drum (555 in diagram) and it should slide out. In my case, the clutch pack inside this drum was completely shredded and the rear Sun Gear (575 in diagram) came out together which is fine.
Since the clutch pack that goes between the Direct Drum and the Sun Gear was so far gone, both the Direct Drum and Sun Gear itself where banged up and needed to be replaced along with the clutch pack. Looking further into the transmission, it didn't look like anything else was damaged. The next clutch pack seemed fine and nothing looked torn up.

I was lucky and able to find a used Direct Drum for the U241E transmission on eBay that had the clutch pack (diagram 878 through 126) and piston (diagram 565) already inside it and ready to go. Otherwise you have to buy all the components separately and put together which isn't too difficult but finding all together was definitely a plus.

Direct Drum
https://cobratransmission.com/u140-direct-drum-1415066-1


Sun Gear
https://cobratransmission.com/u140f-u241e-rear-planet-sun-gear-hub-1415082-1


Both together are less than $200. Just make sure the Direct Drum comes with the clutch already in it. It looks like it is in this link.

Try to get all the metal shavings out if there are any you can see in transmission. Most should be on the magnets in the pan, but just get whatever you can out from anywhere you see them.

Make sure all bearings and washers are transferred from old gears or replaced. There was one inset on the Sun gear that doesn't look like it comes off, but it does.

To install the new Sun Gear I had to remove the next clutch pack from the transmission since it was easier than trying to line up all the gears as it twists into place. Removing the clutch pack is easy, just take the clip off like in the video and pull all the pieces out noting what orientation they are and in what order they go on. Good time to inspect that clutch pack. All my clutches still had writing on them, so they all seemed good to go. Once the clutch pack was out I was able to put the Sun gear in all the way. Now put the clutch pack back in the same order it was in until you get it all clipped back together.



Once you have that in, slide the Direct Drum back in lining up the teeth on the clutch inside it with the Sun gear. I'm skipping the step of putting together the clutch pack and piston inside the Direct Drum since I did not have to do it.
Once you have the Direct Drum on and pushed all the way in, you just have to replace the fluid tube and put the rear cover back on. I used a little transmission silicone to prevent leaks.
Put the clean pan back on and fill with fluid.

Drive it and see if the problem persists. Mine was fixed and shifted perfectly after not having 3rd, 4th or reverse at all.

It's possible only the clutch pack is toast and the hard parts are still good on yours, but my mom had driven it for a good while while messed up so I felt I need to replace them since it looked like they had been grinding together.


I really hope this helps. Like I said, I have never done anything with a transmission, but do consider myself to be on the more adept side of being a shade tree mechanic. I wanted to find a way to not have to spend $4k or drop the transmission and somehow was able.

I cannot guarantee this will fix your transmission. It is up to you if you are competent enough to take it apart and inspect to see what parts need to be replaced. You transmission may be messed up more or less than mine. This is just what I was able to do on mine. My mom has put a few thousand miles on the transmission since then and it is still working great.

This may be the correct two parts you need, but it doesn't look like it has the clutch on the direct drum. Hard to tell from pic.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/U140E-TOYOTA-SIENNA-DIRECT-DRUM-4-CLUTCH-99-UP-CALCULATED-EXPEDITED-SHIP/323057744262?hash=item4b37bdf986:g:d5EAAOSwBp9aehlC:sc:USPSPriority!78759!US!-1:rk:21:pf:0

I think this is the correct direct drum and you can see the clutches in it.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1999-UP-TOYOTA-U140E-TRANSMISSION-DIRECT-CLUTCH-DRUM-WITH-SHAFT-4-CLUTCH/233004431226?epid=658220767&hash=item364025777a:g:9LgAAOSwPv9bUkIZ:rk:3:pf:0

Here are other links that I used to gain familiarity.
http://shop.ukrtrans.biz/wp-content/uploads/catalogs/U241E.pdf
http://shop.ukrtrans.biz/wp-content/uploads/catalogs/U140E.pdf
http://akpp19.ru/files/toyota/U-140E,U241E.pdf
U140/U240/U241/U250 Hub Gear/Rear Sun Gear (167575A) | G-COR Automotive
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
2002 Rav4 Tranmission no 3rd, 4th or reverse fix

I had the same issue on my moms car. The ECU was shifting wrong for too long and eventually messed up the transmission to where she did not have 3rd, 4th or reverse. I kept getting told I was going to have to pay $4000-$5000 to have the transmission rebuilt by tranny shops. With a little research, some luck and some faith I went upon the following fix. Keep in mind, I have never worked on a transmission and I cannot promise you yours will be broken the same way, but if it helps you then I thought I would pass on my experience.

I tried to post links to where I got the parts and the videos that helped me, but the site won't allow me since I am new. If you want to try this, message me and I will send the links I guess.

First, make sure you get a reworked ECU otherwise it doesn't matter if the transmission itself is working as it should.
Drop the transmission pan to get all the fluid and metal shavings out.
Jack up the front drivers side of the car.
Remove the front drivers wheel.
At this point you should be able to see the back of the transmission
There is a rear cover on the transmission that you can remove without dropping the transmission at all.
See this video on YouTube for a walk-through. Even though he has the tranny out, you can do with part with it still in. Start around 3 minutes in

link removed

Once you have the cover removed, you will see the Direct Drum
See below link for order of parts along with part numbers to help you along

link removed

Remove the inner fluid tube as shown in the youtube video
Now you should be able to pull on the Direct Drum (555 in diagram) and it should slide out. In my case, the clutch pack inside this drum was completely shredded and the rear Sun Gear (575 in diagram) came out together which is fine.
Since the clutch pack that goes between the Direct Drum and the Sun Gear was so far gone, both the Direct Drum and Sun Gear itself where banged up and needed to be replaced along with the clutch pack. Looking further into the transmission, it didn't look like anything else was damaged. The next clutch pack seemed fine and nothing looked torn up.

I was lucky and able to find a used Direct Drum for the U241E transmission on eBay that had the clutch pack (diagram 878 through 126) and piston (diagram 565) already inside it and ready to go. Otherwise you have to buy all the components separately and put together which isn't too difficult but finding all together was definitely a plus.

link removed

I also found the Sun Gear from here

link removed

Both together were less than $200, but it would be more I am sure if I wasn't able to find the Direct Drum used and all one piece.

Try to get all the metal shavings out if there are any you can see in transmission. Most should be on the magnets in the pan, but just get whatever you can out from anywhere you see them.

Make sure all bearings and washers are transferred from old gears or replaced. There was one inset on the Sun gear that doesn't look like it comes off, but it does.

To install the new Sun Gear I had to remove the next clutch pack from the transmission since it was easier than trying to line up all the gears as it twists into place. Removing the clutch pack is easy, just take the clip off like in the video and pull all the pieces out noting what orientation they are and in what order they go on. Good time to inspect that clutch pack. All my clutches still had writing on them, so they all seemed good to go. Once the clutch pack was out I was able to put the Sun gear in all the way. Now put the clutch pack back in the same order it was in until you get it all clipped back together.

Once you have that in, slide the Direct Drum back in lining up the teeth on the clutch inside it with the Sun gear. I'm skipping the step of putting together the clutch pack and piston inside the Direct Drum since I did not have to do it.
Once you have the Direct Drum on and pushed all the way in, you just have to replace the fluid tube and put the rear cover back on. I used a little transmission silicone to prevent leaks.
Put the clean pan back on and fill with fluid.

Drive it and see if the problem persists. Mine was fixed and shifted perfectly after not having 3rd, 4th or reverse at all.

It's possible only the clutch pack is toast and the hard parts are still good on yours, but my mom had driven it for a good while while messed up so I felt I need to replace them since it looked like they had been grinding together.


I really hope this helps. Like I said, I have never done anything with a transmission, but do consider myself to be on the more adept side of being a shade tree mechanic. I wanted to find a way to not have to spend $4k or drop the transmission and somehow was able.

Can you send me the links as well? Please! Thank you in advance!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Ok i pulled the trans filter pan and drained out old trans fluid. There was a bunch of metal in the transmission filter. Is that a bad thing? I also seen some metal pieces in the bottom of the pan. I'm ruling out of it needs a new trans bc it still will not go in reverse. When i put it in reverse it jumps rally hard like it's trying to kick in and out of reverse. I assume the trans is junk?
Yes, this was a bad ECU that did not get fixed in time and now the tranny is physically damaged. Metal parts are very bad in the pan. Usually there is just dust/coating on the magnetic drain plug. So both parts are probably bad. This has all the classic symptoms of what happens to a tranny when the ECU is not replaced in time. You could try to test/replace if needed the solenoids, then a rebuilt ECU and add a quart or two of Lucas auto transmission repair/stop slip. I swear by the Lucas products; freaking awesome. If that doesnt fix it; its time for new shift packs and more. You might still have a chance, since it jumps in and out of reverse.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
2002 Rav4 Tranmission no 3rd, 4th or reverse fix

I had the same issue on my moms car. The ECU was shifting wrong for too long and eventually messed up the transmission to where she did not have 3rd, 4th or reverse. I kept getting told I was going to have to pay $4000-$5000 to have the transmission rebuilt by tranny shops. With a little research, some luck and some faith I went upon the following fix. Keep in mind, I have never worked on a transmission and I cannot promise you yours will be broken the same way, but if it helps you then I thought I would pass on my experience.

I tried to post links to where I got the parts and the videos that helped me, but the site won't allow me since I am new. If you want to try this, message me and I will send the links I guess.

First, make sure you get a reworked ECU otherwise it doesn't matter if the transmission itself is working as it should.
Drop the transmission pan to get all the fluid and metal shavings out.
Jack up the front drivers side of the car.
Remove the front drivers wheel.
At this point you should be able to see the back of the transmission
There is a rear cover on the transmission that you can remove without dropping the transmission at all.
See this video on YouTube for a walk-through. Even though he has the tranny out, you can do with part with it still in. Start around 3 minutes in

link removed

Once you have the cover removed, you will see the Direct Drum
See below link for order of parts along with part numbers to help you along

link removed

Remove the inner fluid tube as shown in the youtube video
Now you should be able to pull on the Direct Drum (555 in diagram) and it should slide out. In my case, the clutch pack inside this drum was completely shredded and the rear Sun Gear (575 in diagram) came out together which is fine.
Since the clutch pack that goes between the Direct Drum and the Sun Gear was so far gone, both the Direct Drum and Sun Gear itself where banged up and needed to be replaced along with the clutch pack. Looking further into the transmission, it didn't look like anything else was damaged. The next clutch pack seemed fine and nothing looked torn up.

I was lucky and able to find a used Direct Drum for the U241E transmission on eBay that had the clutch pack (diagram 878 through 126) and piston (diagram 565) already inside it and ready to go. Otherwise you have to buy all the components separately and put together which isn't too difficult but finding all together was definitely a plus.

link removed

I also found the Sun Gear from here

link removed

Both together were less than $200, but it would be more I am sure if I wasn't able to find the Direct Drum used and all one piece.

Try to get all the metal shavings out if there are any you can see in transmission. Most should be on the magnets in the pan, but just get whatever you can out from anywhere you see them.

Make sure all bearings and washers are transferred from old gears or replaced. There was one inset on the Sun gear that doesn't look like it comes off, but it does.

To install the new Sun Gear I had to remove the next clutch pack from the transmission since it was easier than trying to line up all the gears as it twists into place. Removing the clutch pack is easy, just take the clip off like in the video and pull all the pieces out noting what orientation they are and in what order they go on. Good time to inspect that clutch pack. All my clutches still had writing on them, so they all seemed good to go. Once the clutch pack was out I was able to put the Sun gear in all the way. Now put the clutch pack back in the same order it was in until you get it all clipped back together.

Once you have that in, slide the Direct Drum back in lining up the teeth on the clutch inside it with the Sun gear. I'm skipping the step of putting together the clutch pack and piston inside the Direct Drum since I did not have to do it.
Once you have the Direct Drum on and pushed all the way in, you just have to replace the fluid tube and put the rear cover back on. I used a little transmission silicone to prevent leaks.
Put the clean pan back on and fill with fluid.

Drive it and see if the problem persists. Mine was fixed and shifted perfectly after not having 3rd, 4th or reverse at all.

It's possible only the clutch pack is toast and the hard parts are still good on yours, but my mom had driven it for a good while while messed up so I felt I need to replace them since it looked like they had been grinding together.


I really hope this helps. Like I said, I have never done anything with a transmission, but do consider myself to be on the more adept side of being a shade tree mechanic. I wanted to find a way to not have to spend $4k or drop the transmission and somehow was able.
My 2002 RAV4 Has never had a shifting problem until now, all of a sudden started acting up in drive, no reverse but feels like it goes in and when I put it in neutral I can’t push the car. I replaced the ECM still having the same symptoms. I’m thinking what you did might help. Can you send me the links?
Thanks, Joe
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top