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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, nice to meet you.

I bought my first car, a Rav4 2004 with 1AZ FE engine.
My VIN is JTEHH20V006103107.

I AM totally noob at this thing of find a fix for a mechanic issue.:frown

I'm from Panama.

One day, after 1 year with me, the car overheated to the red zone.
I had to buy a new head gasket, because the older got a fissure.

When the mechanic was loosing the Head Blots, 2 holes complete came out with the head bolts. Both on the same line/row/side of the engine block.
His solution was use an oversized head bolt.

The car was running well for 3 days before the change of the head gasket, asbesto head gasket seal, cooper, oil, coolant, oil filter.

He told me he torqued the Head Gasket to 70 lbs.ft per head bolt (including the oversized ones).

At the 4 day of the repairing, i saw at the coolant reserve tank (i don't know if that is the correct name) and overflow of heat coolant... i got worried. When the engine got cold, i opened the radiator cap and that sounded like i was opening a shaked coca-cola. ~sfx: pssssssssssssssssssssssssss clacs

I refuelled the coolant on the radiator everymorning.

At the 6 day i realized that the engine was consuming the coolant. I went to the mechanic again, and he re-checked it and told me that the oversized head bolts were not holding the torque. He retorqued them and the issue still persist.

Doing an extensive research, i found some things to do for fix this:

- Re-loose the head gasket and head bolts,
- Perform a 'plane' on the head gasket and a 'pressure test' to find fissures on it.
- Use Time Sert or Heil Coil, but i'm not sure what to buy... they come in Mxx sizes, so i need some help with this.
- Change the asbesto seal again, and use cooper sealant on the new one.
- reassembly the head gasket if passed the pressure test and torque it properly, using time-sert or heil coil to rebuild the hole on the engine block.


I found a kit on Amazon, but not sure if that will work for me: TIME-SERT Toyota Camry Rav 4 Head Bolt Kit M11 x 1.5 Part # 2200


My questions are:

- What's the correct torque for a Rav4 2004 1AZ FE automatic head gasket? a torque-steps would be appreciated.
- What's the factory Mxx for the head bolts?
- What should i buy? Heil coild or time sert? of them, what's the best to hold the torque?
- Do i need to rebuild only the 2 blown holes? or do i need to repair the 5 of the row?

Many thanks in advance for the info you could provide to me.
I've been reading a lot and watching videos of this issue. It seems to be very common nowadays.

PS: I'm sorry for my bad english.
 

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I don't know exactly what the mechanic did to your car, but if he hadn't done anything the Timesert would be the way to go and the 2200 is the correct kit for the RAV4, take a look at my posts and find the ones on replacing head gasket
You should use new bolts when doing this, I don't remember the correct torque, but it is well documented. If I remember correctly I put them all in finger tight, then brought each up in the recommended sequence about half way, or maybe it was in thirds.
If you go to the expense of getting the kit, which is expensive, repair as many threads as you can. I did all but 2, the outer two.
I have repaired 4 head gaskets in my life and I've never bothered to check for flatness or do any machining, IMO, that's just another way for the mechanic to fleece his customer. I'm sure in some cases it has to be done, but in most cases I don't think it is necessary.
This is not a repair to be taken lightly. Take pictures as you go so you remember how to put things back.
Here are the big tasks IMO:
removing the wire harness, the good news there is that evry connector is unique, so you won't get them crossed when putting back together. The bad news is figuring out how each comes apart since each is different. Also a couple you can only feel, although using a mirror will help.
I forget if it is the starter or the power steering, but you do not remove the 2nd bolt, you only have to loosen it, that one made me scratch my head until I figured it out, because there was no room to extract the bolt. Only looking at the service manual clued me into that.
I recommend taking out the front engine mounts to give you more room to raise and lower the engine, this makes uninstalling and installing the timing chain cover and related parts much easier IMO.
Again, look at my threads on the subject.
A lot of work but very satisfying when you are done. I have about 50,000 miles on my new gasket and it doesn't leak a drop. oil or coolant.
Use Permatex sealant, email them if you are unsure which, don't be cheap on this, you don't want it to leak, be sure everything is clean and dry and ready to go. Make sure you have a plan at this point because everything has to go together without incident or you'll end up doing it again. And you definitely don't want to find that out once you have everything back together.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Many Thanks for your answer.

Actually the mechanics used on those 2 holes an oversized bolt to fix, but that fix didn't succed.

Now i have to do a complete overhaul, take the block to the tornery and make the 10 holes.

Expensive :( is like a point of no return, where the Time-Sert BS and the Heil Coil are not the answer, i think.

I just need the torque specs for this 1AZ :'(

PS: i'm looking for your post, but can't get it.

Thanks in advance.
 

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Time sert has a product called Bigsert that can be used in your situation, check it out.
The holes that normally need fixing are the middle rear, usually the middle 2, but the repair fixes better than new, so do as many as you can.
Their tools are expensive, but they get the job done. Check Amazon and ebay, craigslist if that is available to you. Timesert does not allow their resellers to discount the tool, the best you can do is free shipping , it might be worth a try to find someone that will pay the shipping to Panama for you.
I resold my kit on ebay for less than half price :( but I had used all but two of the inserts, so I'm sure they had to buy more which are about $40 for ten.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Many thanks!
something more, the Engine you repair, did need another repair in a time while? i mean, the fix worked for how many time?
I dont want to sell my RAV4, if the fix work for 10-20 years... but if the fix is for a mid-time period, the best gonna be sell it.


Thanks in advance.
 

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I completed the repair Dec 2014, I still own and drive the car. The repair cost me less than $500 and has extended my ownership 50,000 miles, and still going strong. The repair if done correctly is better than new. I just invested another weekend and $300 to replace the front struts, brake rotors, and brake pads. I trust the vehicle to use it for my weekly commute between Minneapolis & Milwaukee, about 330 miles. I also trust it to go on my vacations to NW Ontario fishing trips which involve about 30-70 miles on abandoned logging roads once the pavement or gravel road ends, far from any help or cell phone service. This vehicle, despite being 2WD, has been places few 4WD or AWD have been or will be. If it doesn't make 300,000 miles I will be surprised and disappointed.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Man, you are a very reliable information guy!!!

when i bought the car, it has 300k kms on it, and this **** happened to me.

I will do all this thing and fix it, i want to still have it.

95% of my doubts has been resolved, thanks to you!!

I will contact you if i need some other advice!!! so many many thanks!!! i hope this fix works for me 30 years more and going strong!!!
 
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