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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

My 2010 RAV4 V6 with 77,000 miles has started taking a second or two longer to start when the engine is cold. It starts like normal when the engine is warm, however.

I've read many threads about RAV's cranking a little longer when the engine is cold, most, if not all, finding the culprit to be a bad battery. I replaced my battery about a year ago and just got done load testing it. It undoubtedly passes.

Does anyone have any advice?

Thanks!
 

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It takes a second or two longer? I'd say the problem is in your mind, no offence intended.
 

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if battery is very good still. i assumed after you've driven it for a whilst, does it stall the engine? if not, thats good.

you may want to check for DTC codes first just to make sure, there maybe something that you can see from the computer.

else you may want to check throttle body for carbon build-up. get a toyota throttle body spray cleaner.

1. just diconnect the vent tube until you can see the throttle body valve.
2. use a non fibre rag and spray some amount of throttle body on it, use it to wipe out
carbon build up inside the throttle body bore and the valve.
NOTE: do not spray the cleaner into it. use the rag w/ sprayed throttle body cleaner.
3. then reconnect everything.
NOTE: do not start or turn the engine on if you disconnected the MAF sensor connector. you may get a DTC code.
4. then start the engine. if there's not change, you may want to consider a total throttle body clean up.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
ashtonybb,

It has never stalled on us. I've checked for codes, and there weren't any that popped up. I will check and clean the throttle body to see if that helps. Thanks for the help!
 

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2008 RAV4 Limited V6
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I'm willing to bet that even though your battery passed a load test, it's not putting out close to the cold cranking amps it's rated for. A new battery with the highest CCA you can afford will solve your problem.
 

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Since the report is that the battery is only a year old and load tests OK it likely is not the cause of the situation, but it might be worthwhile to check to make certain that the cable connections to the battery and the battery posts are clean, with no corrosion or oxidation. Basically as with RTexasF, the perceived "problem" isn't at this point a cause for concern.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You may say this is only in my mind or is not a cause for concern at this time, however others have noticed the difference and I would like to get it fixed before it strands my wife in the cold ND winter and becomes a big problem. I will take the possible diagnoses and give them a shot when I get time Monday.
 

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If you have the capability to monitor the data stream, check the coolant sensor reading and the intake air temperature sensor reading when the engine is cold. They should be within 1-2 degrees of each other and agree with ambient temperature. A faulty sensor will not pop a light if it is reading within design parameters. I fought with a 99 Honda CR-V over the course of several months that refused to start on a hot restart. The owner had to let it cool off. I never got it to act up except for the last time we danced. The coolant sensor would read 34F on a hot engine, causing it to flood. When the sensor cooled off enough, the CR-V would start fine.


If this engine had over 100000 miles, I'd recommend a set of spark plugs but at only 77000, chances are they are not the problem.


Connect a voltmeter across the battery terminals and see if the voltage drops below 9.8 volts when cranking cold and the issue is present. Starters are pretty robust on these engines. The throttle valve could be dirty, causing an airflow restriction. Cleaning it is a good idea, making sure not to get any cleaner in the TAC electronics.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks everyone for the help. After cleaning the throttle body, the car has been starting like normal the last couple days.
 
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