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Flush, Change, or Nothing

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2011 - 2.5 - 4WD: Auto Transmission, flush or just change? Recommendations.

1963 Views 7 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  kevcules46, 
U
Hi all. My 2011 has about 32,500mi on the clock, and I want to ensure that this car lives a full life. Hoping for 250,000.

I've scrubbed through the service intervals, and absolutely no mention of transmission fluid change or flush. I've read around a little and from what I gleaned, it seems like Toyota thinks that the transmissions never need service, but I just generally don't believe that, regardless of the manufacturer.

Anyhow, looking for some input. For most automatics I've heard it's best to do a first flush at around 30,000, and then only fluid changes after that. Wondering if I should simply change my fluid and filter, or if I might want to consider a full flush, at my current mileage.
With either option, I'll be doing it myself. Especially with the flush, given how the flushing machines can sometimes ruin a transmission.

Thanks for any recommendations. I imagine some people might think it's pointless or overly picky, but I'd prefer if the only things that fail down the road are cheap and easy to replace.
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Foryota
UserJS_0996 said:
Hi all. My 2011 has about 32,500mi on the clock, and I want to ensure that this car lives a full life. Hoping for 250,000.

I've scrubbed through the service intervals, and absolutely no mention of transmission fluid change or flush. I've read around a little and from what I gleaned, it seems like Toyota thinks that the transmissions never need service, but I just generally don't believe that, regardless of the manufacturer.

Anyhow, looking for some input. For most automatics I've heard it's best to do a first flush at around 30,000, and then only fluid changes after that. Wondering if I should simply change my fluid and filter, or if I might want to consider a full flush, at my current mileage.
With either option, I'll be doing it myself. Especially with the flush, given how the flushing machines can sometimes ruin a transmission.

Thanks for any recommendations. I imagine some people might think it's pointless or overly picky, but I'd prefer if the only things that fail down the road are cheap and easy to replace.
Click to expand...
Per Toyota’s maintenance recommendations they say the WS fluid is for the lifetime of the transmission. But when the fluid degrades eventually and the transmission dies.... it’s a causal argument .

How you managed to get a 2011 with such low miles is beyond me, but enjoy it, and congratulations! Has it been used for towing? Do you intend to tow with it, or go deep off road? If yes to either or both, then go with the shortened change intervals at 30,000 - in other words if you’ll work it hard. Otherwise you should be fine to run that out a bit longer.

When changing the fluid, if you’re able to accomplish the return line flush easily, that’s the way to do it. Drain/pan drop gets about half the fluid but then you’re mixing new and old. If you change frequently, this may be sufficient. However the flush is the way to go.

If you want to ensure a long life for this, strongly consider adding a stacked plate transmission cooler as this will significantly drop your operating temperatures, particularly in the summer. If you live in an area that gets freezing temps, there are some units available with a built-in low-temperature bypass for the fluid.


2012 RAV4 Base FWD. Upgraded to large front brakes and 3rd row rear springs.

Link to SAE J2807 test description
www.caranddriver.com

That Dam Towing Test: New SAE Trailering Standards Explained

The new standards ask: Can you climb the Davis Dam grade?
www.caranddriver.com www.caranddriver.com
See less See more
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M
Only 32k in 10 years. Wow
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Foryota said:
How you managed to get a 2011 with such low miles is beyond me, but enjoy it, and congratulations! Has it been used for towing? Do you intend to tow with it, or go deep off road? If yes to either or both, then go with the shortened change intervals at 30,000 - in other words if you’ll work it hard. Otherwise you should be fine to run that out a bit longer.

When changing the fluid, if you’re able to accomplish the return line flush easily, that’s the way to do it. Drain/pan drop gets about half the fluid but then you’re mixing new and old. If you change frequently, this may be sufficient. However the flush is the way to go.

If you want to ensure a long life for this, strongly consider adding a stacked plate transmission cooler as this will significantly drop your operating temperatures, particularly in the summer. If you live in an area that gets freezing temps, there are some units available with a built-in low-temperature bypass for the fluid.
Click to expand...
Bought it from a very old neighbor who unfortunately passed away a few months ago, and he practically never drove it. Only problem with it is a significant amount of rust in the rear crossmember.

I appreciate the recommendations. Never towed and don't plan to ever. Considering a little bit of off road, but very, very light stuff. More like dirt road climbing, but so far just city and highway. I'll consider that cooler. Do you have any recommendations on good kits? Currently living up northeast U.S. but planning on moving down, so I don't think I'll need the bypass. I assume you can just purchase a larger cooler and replace the current one?

I feel like it's had a pretty easy life, so I might try and do a flush and filter.
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Mikemnj said:
Only 32k in 10 years. Wow
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Bought from an older neighbor who passed. Barely took it out. The summer tires that came with the car were original. Bought a new set immediately.
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That is some find, lucky you.

As @Foryota says, it has had a relatively easy life so far, so you could put some more on it before you change.

We have a manual tranny in ours, and I do the tranny fluid, transfer unit and rear diff every 30k - but that is just me
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Foryota
UserJS_0996 said:
Bought it from a very old neighbor who unfortunately passed away a few months ago, and he practically never drove it. Only problem with it is a significant amount of rust in the rear crossmember.

I appreciate the recommendations. Never towed and don't plan to ever. Considering a little bit of off road, but very, very light stuff. More like dirt road climbing, but so far just city and highway. I'll consider that cooler. Do you have any recommendations on good kits? Currently living up northeast U.S. but planning on moving down, so I don't think I'll need the bypass. I assume you can just purchase a larger cooler and replace the current one?

I feel like it's had a pretty easy life, so I might try and do a flush and filter.
Click to expand...
Sorry to hear about him passing, but wow what a find. As for the cooler, I’m using a B&M large unit (or I will when I install it this summer!) search stacked plate, B&M and Hayden in 4.3 Mechanical and you’ll find some good threads, particularly from 2019 IIRC. there is no factory cooler as we’re used to seeing it on anything other than the V6 with the tow Prep package (in the radiator). All other models (yours and mine) have a “hockey puck” type cooler/warmer which simply has transmission fluid and hot coolant in close proximity inside a housing. For your usage where you are, that should be enough, but as you are heading south it’s a bonus to have that external cooler. Those of us towing (heh I just had 3100 lbs on today including the trailer - OOPS) have a true need for it. The good news is that according to Wikipedia (I know, I know) this 4-speed was shared with the first generation Highlander which was slightly larger but also built to handle much more work too.


2012 RAV4 Base FWD. Upgraded to large front brakes and 3rd row rear springs.

Link to SAE J2807 test description
www.caranddriver.com

That Dam Towing Test: New SAE Trailering Standards Explained

The new standards ask: Can you climb the Davis Dam grade?
www.caranddriver.com www.caranddriver.com
See less See more
Reply
Save
Like
  • Like
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K
UserJS_0996 said:
Hi all. My 2011 has about 32,500mi on the clock, and I want to ensure that this car lives a full life. Hoping for 250,000.

I've scrubbed through the service intervals, and absolutely no mention of transmission fluid change or flush. I've read around a little and from what I gleaned, it seems like Toyota thinks that the transmissions never need service, but I just generally don't believe that, regardless of the manufacturer.

Anyhow, looking for some input. For most automatics I've heard it's best to do a first flush at around 30,000, and then only fluid changes after that. Wondering if I should simply change my fluid and filter, or if I might want to consider a full flush, at my current mileage.
With either option, I'll be doing it myself. Especially with the flush, given how the flushing machines can sometimes ruin a transmission.

Thanks for any recommendations. I imagine some people might think it's pointless or overly picky, but I'd prefer if the only things that fail down the road are cheap and easy to replace.
Click to expand...
Good job getting ahead of any potential issues. I'm a big believer in preventative maintenance also!

When ever I buy a used vehicle, I usually replace all the fluids (except brake) so I know the condition and can start a mileage based change interval.
I would drain the fluid and even drop the pan to clean out any sludge and also clean the magnets. At that mileage, you've gone through the initial break in and you should change the fluid and clean the magnets so that the metal slurry isn't being circulated through the tranny! :)
Some think it's overkill, but it's cheap insurance. WS OEM fluid is fine if you change it at sensible intervals IMO.
I was told the transmission filter is a "strainer" so it never needs replacing, even though the aftermarket kits come with filters, your choice.
Doing these sensible fluid changes will give your vehicle no reason to let you down! Good luck...
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