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One other thing I’ll pop in is my experience with the downstream sensor. Get underneath and have a look up the back of the engine with a strong light and maybe a mirror. You’re looking for a pipe pressed into the back of the cylinder head. Once you find the pipe, look along the bottom for a trace of dry coolant/signs of a leak. If you find this, it’s worth talking to your dealership as this is a manufacturing defect which costs about $3700 CDN to fix, and requires a new cylinder head. This happened to me while in warranty so it was taken care of with no issues, but that pipe is not serviceable at all. If you have the leak but you don’t get anywhere with that, perhaps a shield or guard can be fashioned.

I hope it’s software and not as serious as my problem was.
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
Hi all,

It's been a while since I've posted. To put it short, havent really used the RAV4 as much besides for short trips. Since winter break has arrived however, I figured, it's time to get it fixed.
My brother and I decided to disconnect and reconnect both O2 sensors to make sure nothing was out of the ordinary. After doing so and reconnecting the battery, after about 80 miles of driving, sure enough, the CEL (P0420) came back on.

I've downloaded techstream and my brother and I started to record some live data. I've attached the live data to this post, and am hoping for some feedback as to if theres anything out of the ordinary.

I've noticed that B1S2 is normal (?) as its suppose to be rich lean rich lean? Correct me if I'm wrong.

Heres when it's at idle.

Heres when it's at around 2k RPM.


Looking forward for your responses and feedback. Happy holidays!
 

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Hi all,

It's been a while since I've posted. To put it short, havent really used the RAV4 as much besides for short trips. Since winter break as arrived however, I figured, it's time to get it fixed.
My brother and I decided to disconnect and reconnect both O2 sensors to make sure nothing was out of the ordinary. After doing so and reconnecting the battery, after about 80 miles of driving, sure enough, the CEL came back on.

I've downloaded techstream and my brother and I started to record some live data. I've attached the live data to this post, and am hoping for some feedback as to if theres anything out of the ordinary.

I've noticed that B1S2 is normal (?) as its suppose to be rich lean rich lean? Correct me if I'm wrong.

Heres when it's at idle.

Heres when it's at around 2k RPM.


Looking forward for your responses and feedback. Happy holidays!
You may need to give more information such as the trouble code.
 

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I just replaced my cat converter pipe in my 06 Corolla with an aftermarket brand from Rock Auto saving about $600. I had no codes before replacement, but it was leaking as we could hear it and smell fumes inside the cabin.. I already had changed the exhaust manifold also , so the bolts were easy coming out.
If you think your cat is bad or plugged, I would try some cat cleaner first.
147981


If you want to keep your vehicle for a long time and your cat is still in question, buy an OEM and change it yourself. One thing to remember as I just found out. Your cat is worth some money at the scrap yard. My corolla has two cats on one pipe and they are worth $40 each at the scrap yard ,so ask around for the best price and don't just throw it away.
For maintenance at 120,000 miles, I would suggest using the cat cleaner, using seafoam and Marvel Mystery oil in your gas tank to clean and lube your fuel system. (may help straighten out your oxygen sensors) Drain and flush your transmission fluid, if you changed your antifreeze,did you replace your thermostat with an OEM one?
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Hi all, my apologies for not posting lately. Unfortunately, with time also comes neglection and with neglection also comes the RAV4, which we've not been paying attention to for a while. But here's to hoping that will change. With the two O2 sensors already replaced with OEM replacements and no other choices, I think it's time to fork up some money for a cat replacement. I'd follow the washer trick just to pass inspection, but in the long run, keeping this car for the long hall (bought it back in 2011 and it now has over 150k miles), I think its wise to make sure everything is working like it should.

Before moving on, I'd like to thank all of you guys for your responses and advice, it's been very helpful in this ever lasting process of this darn O2/cat issue.

To Kevin from Canada, thanks for your response. I've since tried cataclean but sadly, it did not work.

With that said, I'd like to ask you and everyone else, your opinions on these different catalytic converter brands that are on Rockauto. I've attached the three images to this post, one of the daily driver, premium and economy. Which brand would you say is more reputable and has a more reliable catalytic converter? Which would be optimal for performance (lol)?

The converter sub assembly (part# 250510V070) , assuming thats the catalytic converter, under toyotas epart store, is listed for $429.53. And to be honest, I'm not quite sure if that's the only part I'll need in conjunction with replacing the catalytic converter? Would appreciate some clarification here.

Would there be any advantages to buy aftermarket over OEM, assuming the OEM part is the only one needed?

Thanks for your replies and time.
 

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Usually the "daily driver" parts are a safe bet. Search amazon also for the same parts at sometimes cheaper prices.....good luck
 

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It could be coils going bad. When we bought our rav the previous owner said it was low on power and all the lights were on. The spark plugs were shot and so were the coils. This caused unburned fuel to melt the first cat and clog the second one and blow out the exhaust gasket on the down pipe, which melted the cooling fan housing.

I replaced the plugs/coils/02 sensors/melted cat, and removed the second cat. Runs fine now.

crazy series of events, but lack of maintenance will do that.
 
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