Toyota RAV4 Forums banner

1 - 20 of 34 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,455 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi, (2011 rav 2.5l) When I press the button on my AC it just blows hot air ! The clutch doesn't kick in and the fuses look ok!



I used teachstream and was able to get the clutch working and the AC was nice and cold. The AC button in the car didn't turn on while it was running! Is it possible that the button on the AC switch is broken even tho the light goes on ? Any other ideas?



Here's the data from techstream. Maybe someone will know what the data means!
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,455 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
No A/C guys here? I don't think its the compressor because I can turn on the clutch in techstream! I checked all the fuses and they look good. It was working just a couple of weeks ago. The only thing I did was change the Battery. I dont see how that would make any difference!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,428 Posts
If the fuses were checked only visually, the only reliable method is to use a continuity tester such as one on a multimeter (VOM) on each one. Fuses can "look" good but still be defective.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,455 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
If the fuses were checked only visually, the only reliable method is to use a continuity tester such as one on a multimeter (VOM) on each one. Fuses can "look" good but still be defective.
Hi. Thanks for the reply. I did check all the fuses in the 2 engine compartments with a multimeter. I also swapped the 50amp fuses . everything looked ok.

The fuse box in the drivers compartment is a real PIA to get the fuses out. What were they thinking with that location. I can barely get me hand in the pull the fuses. I need to get a longer fuse puller. I checked 3 of them that might have something to do with the ac.

I have a buddy who has a HVAC gage set coming over this weekend to check the freon level. Hopfully its just low and needs a little Freon.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,630 Posts
Hi. Thanks for the reply. I did check all the fuses in the 2 engine compartments with a multimeter. I also swapped the 50amp fuses . everything looked ok.

The fuse box in the drivers compartment is a real PIA to get the fuses out. What were they thinking with that location. I can barely get me hand in the pull the fuses. I need to get a longer fuse puller. I checked 3 of them that might have something to do with the ac.

I have a buddy who has a HVAC gage set coming over this weekend to check the freon level. Hopfully its just low and needs a little Freon.
If it is low then there is a leak. The freon does not get used up. If there is no leak the freon last the life of the car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
My ac was cold when I shut the Rav off. Hot air from ac later on. I had ZERO freon inside. I was looking for compressor oil all over and didn't see any signs. Finally a small dent in my condenser was noticed behind a little abrasion in the grill slot. It was a tiny bit darker there and when we threw in a little freon, my compressor fired up and we could see freon spitting out of the condenser hole. New one going in tomorrow. Hoping that solves my problem. I'm guessing the guys doing the lawn must have launched a rock into it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,455 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Anybody know if you can take the EXPANSION VALVE out from the front firewall ?

Ok . I found out how to change the Expansion Valve from someone





It is done from under the hood at the firewall. Recover all the Freon, remove the bolt that secures the two lines to the expansion valve and then remove the two bolts that hold the expansion valve to the EVAP core.

Make sure you change the dryer as well"
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
You seem pretty on top of this, but I might as well chime in with my own experience.

I took my 2010 Rav4 into a local repair shop with the same issue. But I was informed that my AC Condenser is “filled with freon” and will cost $1,600 to replace if I get a refill on top of that. I suspect it may have been damaged since my car has been rear-ended twice, the first time being 5 years ago with the impact bad enough that I hit the driver in front of me. Though, it was a minor dent compared to how hard the back was hit, where I had to replace the back door entirely.

Can’t say that the condenser may be the source of your problem, but it’s something to consider while you’re being hands on with it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,455 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
You seem pretty on top of this, but I might as well chime in with my own experience.

I took my 2010 Rav4 into a local repair shop with the same issue. But I was informed that my AC Condenser is “filled with freon” and will cost $1,600 to replace if I get a refill on top of that. I suspect it may have been damaged since my car has been rear-ended twice, the first time being 5 years ago with the impact bad enough that I hit the driver in front of me. Though, it was a minor dent compared to how hard the back was hit, where I had to replace the back door entirely.

Can’t say that the condenser may be the source of your problem, but it’s something to consider while you’re being hands on with it.

I would HIGHLY RECOMMEND you go to different shop to get another opinion!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Replaced my condenser with a Denso offered by my STealer. They had two-one was $379 and the cheaper one was the one I bought. $220. Fit perfectly and my a/c is back in business. Watched a youtube video where somebody was saying the front bumper needs to come off. Seemed excessive and my friend/mechanic put it in 20-30 mins.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,455 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Replaced my condenser with a Denso offered by my STealer. They had two-one was $379 and the cheaper one was the one I bought. $220. Fit perfectly and my a/c is back in business. Watched a youtube video where somebody was saying the front bumper needs to come off. Seemed excessive and my friend/mechanic put it in 20-30 mins.

Good to hear it was an easy fix for you. Do you have TECHSTREAM? If you do or somebody else here has it can you go the AIR CONDITIONER section and click on DATA LIST tab and with the AC OFF find out what the FLOW SENSOR value is? It should be 3.8 V or higher.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Good to hear it was an easy fix for you. Do you have TECHSTREAM? If you do or somebody else here has it can you go the AIR CONDITIONER section and click on DATA LIST tab and with the AC OFF find out what the FLOW SENSOR value is? It should be 3.8 V or higher.
I'm sorry. I don't have techstream.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,455 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Just wanted to update on my AC problem! Compressor wasn't kicking in and blowing hot air! (I could only turn the Compressor with techstream running) After taking it to a couple of people who said I needed a new Compressor. I found a TSB T-SB-0084-13 about Toyotas having bad FLOW Sensors on many of the Compressors . There was also a thread here about it!


https://www.rav4world.com/forums/99-4-3-mechanical/263601-dtc-b1479-c-problem.html


The Flow sensor voltage has to be 3.8 volts or higher with the Ac off in order to have the amplifier to turn the compressor on


I check the voltage with TECHSTREAM and mine was at 3.59 v!


The flow sensor is ON the compressor and and Toyota doesn't sell the part. They just change the compressor, I found a new one on ebay for$50.



I had the system evacuated and while the system was empty I decided to also change the Expansion valve and the Desiccant Drier! Just to be on the save side!


I had to take off the Bumper cover, ac Condenser and radiator to get at the compressor Flow sensor. It's held in with a snap ring . After getting the snap ring off the sensor was frozen in place and when I pulled on it it broke apart so i had to use a small chisel to get the remainder out ! There was a lot what looked like white rust under it. I scraped it all out and sanded it down to make sure the new Sensor would seat properly ! Before I put everything back together I checked it again with the key in the on position (not running) and the Voltage was 3.86v . Which is above the 3.8v min needed!


I put everything back together and Vacuumed the system and recharged recharged the AC and now it WORKS again! So if anybody runs into the same problem get TECHSTREAM and check the Flow sensor voltage ! Here's a couple of pictures of The techstream readout Before 3.59v and after 3.86V with AC off!



I hope it helps someone who might be running into the same problem!
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,455 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
I just noticed I can't edit my post! I forgot to Give the link to the Flow Sensor I used. You may be able to find a cheaper one?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-FLOW-SENSOR-FOR-DENSO-TSE14C-TSE17C-COMPRESSORS-FITS-SCION-TOYOTA-SUBARU/131954970956?hash=item1eb921114c%3Ag%3AcYUAAOSwLnBX7XJV&_sacat=0&_nkw=A%2FC+FLOW+SENSOR+for+Denso+TSE17C&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313



PS. I think you may have enough room to get at the SENSOR with just taking out the Radiator and fans and cross member on top of it that the battery hold down screws to! (remove Radiator hose from waterpump side!)? You will have to double check! That way you wont have to take the freon out!


Here's a pdf on removing the Radiator
 

Attachments

1 - 20 of 34 Posts
Top