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Curb weight listed at 3670 pounds - 2011 RAV4 V6 Limited AWD.
Presumably go from there - my Base model, other specs the same, has additional weight from some factory installed additions.
 

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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
Well, I took only some short drives lately (work from home) but I thought to check the oil catch can. Well... I don't know what to think of what I saw there. Milkshake on the bottom. I know that some moisture from condensation will be evaporated and sucked trough the PCV with oil vapors. But why would deposit as milkshake on the bottom of catch can? Did it come like that from the engine? When I was driving longer times, it was just oil (see above picture).

20200513_113600.jpg 20200513_113653.jpg
 

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What exactly is an "oil catch can"? For sure that milkshake is not a good sign. My first thought would be head gaskets (if it were a 4 cylinder) but it could, as you say, be condensation.
 

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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
My programmable flasher relay just arrived this morning! I can't wait to play with it!

152469


Ten minutes later: I had to bend up the little plastic "ears" that are on the sides, because the car socket didn't have the holes for them, and they were preventing the relay to go all the way in. OE relay doesn't have those. The default number of flashes is 4, but it can be changed per above instructions.

152482
 

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My programmable flasher relay just arrived this morning! I can't wait to play with it!

View attachment 152469

Ten minutes later: I had to bend up the little plastic "ears" that are on the sides, because the car socket didn't have the holes for them, and they were preventing the relay to go all the way in. OE relay doesn't have those.

View attachment 152482
Does the limited trim turn signal stalk have the 3 flash lane change feature built-in (i.e. half toggle)? I don't understand the tap to signal feature of the smart flasher if the existing turn signal stalk does not support lane change flashing. It would be pretty cool if this could be added to cars that dont support it.

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Does the limited trim turn signal stalk have the 3 flash lane change feature built-in (i.e. half toggle)? I don't understand the tap to signal feature of the smart flasher if the existing turn signal stalk does not support lane change flashing. It would be pretty cool if this could be added to cars that dont support it.

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No

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
if the existing turn signal stalk does not support lane change flashing
You have to be gentle on pressing the stalk. Takes getting used to it. It will take getting used to the flash function anyway, even with a OE stalk that supports that.
When changing lanes I was holding in place anyway, without clicking it all the way, to avoid the clicker wear, and to to press again in the opposite direction, when the stalk would not automatically reverse. I would not want an OE stalk.
The default number of flashes is 4, but it can be changed per above instructions. I like it because it self-discipline me. I tap, wait for those 4 blinks and, after that, change the lane. I see every day people using their turn signal in the same split second that they are turning. That's useless...

PS: I drove a rented BMW that had this feature from factory, but the stalk would not remain "locked" and would not self-cancel (if used as a normal flasher). Press all the way, it will start flashing, but the stalk would return to middle.
That was super annoying, because when I was tapping it in the opposite direction to cancel, if I would press slightly too long, it would now blink in that direction. Now I had to cancel that. Very disconcerting.
If you ever saw a car passing you with the left blinker on, and then blinking shortly in opposite direction, that's what happens.

No wonder that 90% of BMW drivers don't use their turn signals.
 

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Discussion Starter #31 (Edited)
Update: Today I have replaced the flasher bulbs with LED's. I bought a set of four 7443, orange/natural amber (NA). The rear plastic cover is clear in the flasher position, so amber is required there legally.
The rear use 7440 bulb (single filament) but the 7443 LED's (or bulbs) will work correctly in that socket.
Because I have the new relay, there is no need for ballast resistors (to prevent hyper-flashing).
With those LED's, the daylight flashing is more visible. This is the item: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P9T7D1W/
 

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Very nice journal Sonic, I like your methodical approach. I have the JBL audio and have toyed with the idea of upgrading some aspects but it's hardly used and my daily driver has a fully active setup with dsp, multiple amps, etc. I did buy a bluetooth plug in for use with my Samsung phone for music but haven't even gotten around to trying it yet. I'll keep in mind your FIIO setup though, Have fun!
 

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What is that oil separator brand p/n? I don't see any info on the device. Looks like a good, compact design. Thanks

What exactly is an "oil catch can"? For sure that milkshake is not a good sign. My first thought would be head gaskets (if it were a 4 cylinder) but it could, as you say, be condensation.
- The oil catch can is used to capture oil vapors and oil residue before it reenters the intake. I've put these on turbocharged Subarus in the past as they're noted for their PCV / breather systems putting lots of oil back in to the intake. Google the specifics.

- RE: 'milkshake' - don't get too worried about that if it shows up after short drives or the RAV doesn't get to operating temp for long. As you noted the it doesn't happen on longer drives as the engine is at full temp and able to thin out the oil vapor that contributes to the milkshake. In my experience it's always worse during the colder months of the year, too.

If you're concerned, send a sample of your oil to Blackstone labs at your next oil change. It'll help tell you the engine's condition and if there are any other issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
What is that oil separator brand p/n
I don't remember where I order it, maybe it was eBay. Amazon has similar models: https://www.amazon.com/Engine-Baffled-Separator-Reservoir-Universal/dp/B07JGTTZ16
The only draw back is that the volume is small, so I probably will drain it at every oil change. It's easy to unscrew the clear plastic bowl.
IMO the reason why manufacturers don't use those is because... owners would not drain them. And at some point, the liquid oil would completely block the PCV system.
 

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Discussion Starter #35 (Edited)
Today I decided to work a bit on my RAV4. Since I have the rear shocks already, I thought I can do those. Looked on the manual and I see that they say to remove the top bolt (trough the shock eye) and on bottom they say to remove the tire and then the whole bracket that holds the lower eye. I was "they are stupid", and put my car on ramps, crawled under. Only to discover that the bottom trough bolts (left and right side) are installed in a way that is impossible to remove it, because it doesn't have enough room (hits the arm). I don't know why Toyota installed that direction, if they were reversed, it would have space to clear.
Grrr... Not in the mood today.

Since I was under the car already, I decided to drain and refill the differentials. I had a couple of bottles of synthetic 75W-90 GL5.
First I removed the fill port (always do that, to be sure I can fill it back up). Then removed the bottom drain. Rear fluid was pretty clear, slightly greyish, I drained it and pumped in the new one (clear). Since I was there I contorted my arm to feel the top of differential, where the breather is located. It moved easy with the finger, so I guess is not rusted.
Reversed the car and did the same procedure for the front transfer case. Fill port is cramped, used a 10mm long Allen key with an extension... it was tough to break the seal. Then I opened the bottom drain.
Fluid was dark, and I was afraid it was mixed with transmission fluid, but it wasn't too watery. Plus the fill post didn't leak, so no overfill from transmission side.
Filled with the same 75W-90 synthetic.
Drove it around and the front diff whine disappeared. So it seems that it was actually the transfer case whining.
Yeey!

PS: I didn't do the mod that I have suggested in another thread for the breather valve, because it was not rusted yet. Maybe I should?
 

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Discussion Starter #36 (Edited)
Finally I decided that today is cloudy enough that I can change the rear shocks. I am attaching here the pdf from the repair manual, in case anyone needs it. In my experience of changing shocks/struts on 6 vehicles (this being the 7th) I can say it was the most grueling one. Ford, Hyundai, Kia... all have provided some technical means to ease this procedure. On Kia Soul, the top rear space was as cramped as on the RAV4, but they provided a HOLE trough the member, so one can easily extract the bolt and free the shock. Not Toyota. The bottom side is the first car that required removal of a additional bracket to free the bolt. And yes, you need to install the bolt in the same direction if you want to be able to properly torque it (torque the nut, not the bolt that has friction).

The top bolt was tighted as much as I could by hand, no torque wrench would fit there. I had to use two 17mm spanners (one was ratcheting, at least made it slightly less painful).

Below are some pictures with explanations.

braket.jpg bottom bolt.jpg Top bolt.jpg 20200717_080210.jpg


And, if you were wondering if the OE shock, at 72,300 miles, was still "good"... see this video:

 

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I couldn't believe how much more difficult the rear suspension was to deal with vs the front. It took me twice as long to replace everything in the rear vs the front.

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Discussion Starter #39
I am placing here the drivers and the "how to" to make Techstream work on 64 bit edition of Windows 7.

 

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Finally I decided that today is cloudy enough that I can change the rear shocks. I am attaching here the pdf from the repair manual, in case anyone needs it. In my experience of changing shocks/struts on 6 vehicles (this being the 7th) I can say it was the most grueling one. Ford, Hyundai, Kia... all have provided some technical means to ease this procedure. On Kia Soul, the top rear space was as cramped as on the RAV4, but they provided a HOLE trough the member, so one can easily extract the bolt and free the shock. Not Toyota. The bottom side is the first car that required removal of a additional bracket to free the bolt. And yes, you need to install the bolt in the same direction if you want to be able to properly torque it (torque the nut, not the bolt that has friction).

The top bolt was tighted as much as I could by hand, no torque wrench would fit there. I had to use two 17mm spanners (one was ratcheting, at least made it slightly less painful).

Below are some pictures with explanations.

View attachment 154597 View attachment 154598 View attachment 154599 View attachment 154602


And, if you were wondering if the OE shock, at 72,300 miles, was still "good"... see this video:

My buddy and I just did my my front shocks/struts and rear shocks together and I can second that this was an absolute nightmare, especially the rear driver side....that one bolt is literally hugging the frame and had to 17 wrench it by hand as well. I can't see how there is any other way to do this.
 
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