Why not? In northern areas we have an option of a battery warmer which is also insulated (previous owner of my last Ranger added this, I scavenged it before selling). My RAV also came with a corrugated plastic shield with a foam liner, which I put around my new battery. Had it not been for the crappy body shop that had my RAV for three weeks in December, I may still have been running my factory battery, as it was 7 years old when they took the truck in, but left the doors open and the light switches on FOR THREE WEEKS! (Sore spot, sorry for caps).Because those days there is an exceptional heat wave here (RealFeel at 109-110F), I finally did what I was planning to do for a while - a heat shield for the battery. The hot air that gets exhausted by the radiator fan blasts directly in the battery. I know that with the hood closed that air eventually goes out under the car, but I still hated the idea. On my Ford Explorer the battery had a factory plastic shield with air gap, and that battery lasted 7 years. Maybe I am a dufus, but here is what I did:
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I don't get why Toyota routed the intake the way they did. In my other Fords, the intake goes trough a hole in the driver side wheel well. On my wife's Kia Soul, the intake sucks the air straight in trough the front grille. It might be my next mod... after the transmission cooler and hitch.I may play around with this some in the next few weeks.
Our 2017 Golf 1.8T has a nice intake that pulls from the gap between the plastic grill and the leading edge of the hood. Fords often pull from the wheel well (Fox/SN95 Mustang are notable ones) but this “behind the headlight” position is a long-standing thing with Toyota. The 1993-97 Corolla had a similar routing, although its opening faces rearward over the left front wheel. I don’t know how much air the RAV can pull from behind the turn signal!I don't get why Toyota routed the intake the way they did. In my other Fords, the intake goes trough a hole in a driver side wheel well. On my wife's Kia Soul, the itake sucks the air straight in, at highway speeds it even has an over pressure. It might be my next mod...
In my little slice of the country, we get humid and stifling summer weather similar to what you’d see (so I hear) in DC. We’ve had a long run of high temps lately hitting 97F and feeling like 104F. So, close enough! We balance that with -15F, and I’ve seen it cold enough here at -40F, although only once. I’m sure a better solution is available.The vaccum pulls air from around the engine bay. Like I shown on the previous post, at stoplight with 102F outside, the intake temperature was climbing rapidly to 115F.
Maybe not a major problem in Japan or in Canada, but in Southern VA or lower than that, it's kind of silly.
Do you have experience with surge brakes? Dr. Dyno does, and has a very unfavourable opinion of them. In a recent thread he detailed the compromises that come along with them. Have a look for surge brakes and you should find it quickly enough. Based on his points, he makes a solid, well-defended point for using an electronic controller.I didn't have to drill any holes, mine were taped with round stickers. No rust on threads.
However one of the side stiffeners small bolts didn't really align perfectly with the holes in the car, so I had to drill another hole in that plate. It's not pretty, first I drilled it in the wrong direction.
Also I saw that a part of the hitch was missing the paint, but I was too tired to deal with that. I might spray paint it.
I am planning to get at some point in the future maybe a 2500-3000 lbs trailer. I'll cross that bridge when I will. Maybe a surge-type trailer brake actuator?