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Discussion Starter #61 (Edited)
Results:
Before temperatures - in slow traffic.
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After temperatures, next day. Same slow traffic.

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I noticed that sitting at stop light the transmission temperature still tends to go up, following the engine coolant (they are still thermally coupled), but it never goes above the engine temperature. No more horrible 215F!
Once I move, the temperature drops, but it takes a full 10 minutes. Lots of thermal mass in that transmission.

Also, in the same stopped in traffic condition, the intake seems to stay at lower temperatures than before. Where the day before I saw 20-25 F delta (intake temp higher than ambient), now is max 4 F.
It seems that the 1/2" holes in the bottom piece really helped with that.
 

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Well that’s pretty darn good for in-traffic readings, going from coolant+10 to coolant-3-7! Particularly with the new openings, I bet you’ll see even more improvement on the road. Glad it’s working out for you!
 
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Discussion Starter #63
I don't understand why manufactures like to close up the engine bay like that. I guess for gas millage...

Also I was amazed of the price that Rockauto had for AISIN ATF0WS full synthetic oil - $6.21 a Qt. Plus shipping and taxes was $38.60 for 5 Qt. I liked the Valvoline MaxLife, but this WS is closer to the specs (slightly lower viscosity than ML).
 

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Discussion Starter #64 (Edited)
This evening I drove one hour and when I got home, I took the transmission temperature with both the Techstream and with the Torque (I wasn't sure if formula is correct). It seems that the formula that I have added is correct, there is a small difference between temps, but it also was like a minute between measurements.
The transmission fluid temperature equation for 2010+ cars is different from the earlier models:
((((A*256)+B) * (7/100) - 400)/10) for results in degree F.


temps.JPG 20200730-214609_Torque.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #65 (Edited)
I finalized the project with a 2" ball mount. I looked on U-Haul website and they say that the optimal ball height for towing U-Haul trailers is 18½ to 18¾ inches. This is measured from the ground to the middle of the hitch ball, prior to connecting the trailer.
On my car, with a 4" raise, I have... almost 18½". I might need some Coil spring helpers later, but for now, I think this is OK.
The ball is a bit close to the bumper, but it's on the back-up camera view, so hopefully I won't ding the bumper.


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I finalized the project with a 2" ball mount. I looked on U-Haul website and they say that the optimal ball height for towing U-Haul trailers is 18½ to 18¾ inches. This is measured from the ground to the middle of the hitch ball, prior to connecting the trailer.
On my car, with a 4" raise, I have... almost 18½". I might need some Coil spring helpers later, but for now, I think this is OK.
The ball is a bit close to the bumper, but it's on the back-up camera view, so hopefully I won't ding the bumper.


View attachment 155145 View attachment 155146
The real test though is being able to open the rear door with a trailer attached. I’m using the U-Haul Class 3 hitch, although from a 4.4 (direct fit!) and am still able to clear the coupler lock with a lower rise on the drawbar. From your side angle shot, it looks like you may be ok (ball height is similar to mine) but it’s a royal PITA to not be able to access the trunk with a trailer attached. Hope it works out!
 
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Discussion Starter #67 (Edited)
I didn't think to measure that, thanks!
I just did it: 3-1/2" from the flat top of the ball to the bottom of the door.
 

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I didn't think to measure that, thanks!
In my case I have about 1/2” clearance to the latch. It’s enough that I make sure the trailer and truck are on the same plane (no vertical angle between them) before I open the trunk.
 
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Turns out I have a bit more clearance than I thought I did. With a 1-7/8” ball, I have 4” from the bottom of the door to the top if the ball. Obviously similar clearance with my 2” ball and drawbar on (same rise, but I repainted over the sticker). With the trailer attached, I have 2” from the latch to the door. I think my rise works out to a 3”, but of course you’re using the Toyota hitch whereas I’m using the U-Haul/Curt.

Bottom line, the latch will add about/at least 2” to the top of the ball. In my case with my utility trailer and my small 8’ pop up camper, my rise puts the trailers level when attached.


 
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You’re quite welcome. Happens that we are lucky enough to be working at home long term, and I had already backed in so I can take a run with the trailer tomorrow.

The protector is very light duty, but still useful while I have my 9-year-old son guide me back to connect (better to learn early!) Got it for $10 on clearance at Trailer Hitch Centre in London, Ontario. Was a slow seller, but they may still have some, and be willing to ship if you want one.
 

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Discussion Starter #73 (Edited)
Since the front two tires were worn badly and the rears only seemed to be OK (but I think I saw cracks of dry rot forming), I spent money on new tires. I decide to go one size up, 235/65/R17 104H.
I wanted to replace the spare tire, but when I measured it I didn't thing that inflated bigger size will fit in the back clam shell. For now I decided against it, maybe one day I will pull out one wheel and see if it fits there.
Definity HP100 seems to be a brand of Cooper Tires, Made In Thailand. I am happy about the 104H rating. Why those? Because Sam's Club Tire Center is closed due COVID (?) and PepBoys had those on "Buy 2, Get 4" deal.

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Because those days there is an exceptional heat wave here (RealFeel at 109-110F), I finally did what I was planning to do for a while - a heat shield for the battery. The hot air that gets exhausted by the radiator fan blasts directly in the battery. I know that with the hood closed that air eventually goes out under the car, but I still hated the idea. On my Ford Explorer the battery had a factory plastic shield with air gap, and that battery lasted 7 years. Maybe I am a dufus, but here is what I did:

View attachment 154693
You do know that Toyota put an insulation sleeve around the battery don’t you? Mine still has it. From the factory.
 

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Today it was cloudy enough that I could work outside on my tow kit. I have bought the Toyota OE hitch (for V6) and the Toyota electrical module and harness.

There were so many good threads here about how to, and I didn't have major problems. I was alone so I had to support the heavy hitch on a couple of jack stands... they were almost too short.
I was expecting the wiring to be there, in the car, on the "Towing Package" prep. At least my Ford Explorer had it.
To install the wire was more tedious than anything, I had to demolish all the trims on the right side, from front to back, plus the luggage area! Also I had to take the bolt out from front and rear seat belts! How is that something that is not done in factory?
To plug the connector in the connector under the dash I had to lay on by back, head on brake pedal, with a LED light on my head. I bruised my finger trying to release the original connector (second from the end) to insert my pass-trough end. Eventually I disconnected the first connector and the second was easier to access, more space for my fat fingers.
All in all the OE harness it is a good harness, I didn't have to splice anything, plug and play. Plus the module has automatic short-circuit protection, reset-able from controls (just turn OFF and then back ON that light). I have the 30A total capacity on my "TO" car, so that's good... even if all the lights tend to go towards low power LED's.

I am glad that I bought the OE Toyota hitch. The amount of stiffening that they did to the rear of the car made nervous to try anything else and tow something close to the 3500 lbs.
There are three big bolts on each of the rails (some non-OE have only three+two), connections to the end of the rails on the factory dog bone parts. Also there are lateral connections with plates that go inside across two welded pieces of the car end, keeping them together.

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Hitch part # PT228-42060 for $430 plus $50 shipped from a Toyota dealer out of state.
Wiring harness part # 08921-42900 for another $107.
Labor... maybe line 6 hours.

I installed my factory hitch by myself also. So it can be done if you are smart about it. I’m near 60 and was able to do it. Also, I couldn’t get under the dash to plug in the wiring harness.No way was that happening. So I just disconnected all the wiring plugs going into that panel and then disconnected that panel from the dash board “pipe” its mounted to. Made it much easier to get to that plug on the backside of that panel. And I did all that from the front of the dash thru that hole created when you remove that trim panel below and to the left of the steering column. Also made it easier to find the one “power wire” buried in a wire bundle above the kick panel.
 

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Discussion Starter #76 (Edited)
You do know that Toyota put an insulation sleeve around the battery don’t you? Mine still has it. From the factory.
Thanks! I was wondering about that. Mine is second hand so... who knows. I'll look for one.

About the wiring harness, I kick myself that I didn't throw in two extra wires for the 7 blade connector (the constant hot and e-brake). I just got a Curt dual port part # 57672 and now I need to disassebly that trim again. I won't run it under the car.

LE: I bough the battery box, part # 28899-31040. $31 shipped.
 

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Discussion Starter #77 (Edited)
I have routed the two #10 wires (black and blue) from dashboard to back of the car. Bought 12' of them and... it wasn't enough, needed 4' more to get outside. Oh, well, I stopped in the driver side trunk pocket, so I will splice them there (solder).
This is the adapter, see the long waterproof termination in the back:

The adapter that I bought was long, so the back of the wiring was hitting the hitch bar. So I have to bend the bracket slightly upwards, to clear the bar.
I have connected the adapter 4-way into the OE 4-way and taped with self fusion rubber tape (3M) and then with regular vinyl tape (3M).
This is the result:

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PS: This is the inside of the rear trunk area. Second time took less time to open, I am getting better 😀

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