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Discussion Starter #1
I replaced all 3 O2 sensors today BUT the firewall-side upstream o2 sensor. for the life of me, can't figure out how to get to it. All I see are the wires way up in there, while I'm under the car. Do I need to take off the air intake to get to it? Is there some kind of trick?!
 

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Search this thread. I think someone posted how he did it.

 

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Is this one Bank 2 Sensor 2 because that is a upstream sensor aside from the B2 S1 on the heat shield which is also upstream.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
DL175, was that a complete sentence/thought? I couldn't even parse it. Reread what I wrote, I guess is my advice...
 

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yeah... followed up that link, @@2011rav4, and it doesn't provide any info. that poster "gave up" and paid the shop $700 to replace it. I still need to know if I can DO it by removing the air intake, because I sure as heck can't get to it from under the car... Hasn't anybody done this?
 

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Your OP said you changed 3 out if 4 of them. Just curious why you needed to change those three. Do you have a code for the one you missed or just doing preventive maintenance?

If you don't have a code I wouldn't risk damaging it as some people spoke of.

Good luck
 

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no code just bought it w/ 150k miles on it. figure o2 sensors become somewhat worthless after 100k. when i took them out they were very grubby! didnt have a smidge of trouble getting them out though. easy! that 4th one is in a weird spot though.
 

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seriously, nobody's going to chime in on this, nobody else has removed it?
I went and took off the air intake, and figured with an offset wrench, I could get down in that slot and loosen it. Nope. Busted O'Reilly's socket adapter. What the hell. Can't seem to get at it from below w/o removing the cross-member.

151230
 

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seriously, nobody's going to chime in on this, nobody else has removed it?
I went and took off the air intake, and figured with an offset wrench, I could get down in that slot and loosen it. Nope. Busted O'Reilly's socket adapter. What the hell. Can't seem to get at it from below w/o removing the cross-member.
Heat! Acetilene torch in my case... Propane torch might work too to "soften" the rust weld. Expect to re-thread that bung (or even re-weld a new one).
I did the brute force approach like you on a rusted-in-place O2 sensor in Ford Explorer. I put so much torque (cheater bar) on that sensor socket that I crushed the exhaust manifold gasket upstream, I had to replace it due to noise. I didn't manage to break an adapter... Yet?
I suggest coming from under, removing the cross member seems to get you closer. Control the flame better...


that 4th one is in a weird spot though.
LE: Now I read what you said later. Is that the sensor AFTER the catalytic converter? Then, don't bother replacing it, it just measures the cat performance.
 
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