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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi,

My 2013 RAV4 lift gate stopped working. It's been acting up for a while where it wouldn't open all the way about more than half of the time. Sometimes it would only go up about half way, most of the time 3/4 of the way. Other than that, everything else worked. Well, now it's not working at all. Symptoms are if you press either the remote switch or interior switch you get the tone, but nothing happens (won't even pop it open). Although messing with all those times, one time it sounded like it was going to work but only moved about an inch. If I manually pop it open and try the same, nothing happens. If I manually open and then try to hold down or even use the close switch on the hatch itself (the one with the rubber seal) it doesn't do anything (no beeps, no tones, no nothing). Also, if I go in the glove compartment and turn on the power door off button, it's still feels like the motor is engaged as it's not that easy to open or close. I checked two fuses No 2 10a under the hood and No 3 30a (lower left) under the panel and both were good. Does it sound like a switch is bad or something else? How do I get in there to check the switch (remove the panel cover where the switch is) ??? Any help would be appreciated.

TIA!!
 

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I'd follow the instructions in the owner's manual to initialize the PBD, it's listed in the section of what to do after the battery has been disconnected.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'd follow the instructions in the owner's manual to initialize the PBD, it's listed in the section of what to do after the battery has been disconnected.
The only thing I saw was to reset it by holding down the button on the door to reset the range. But as mentioned in the post, it doesn't do anything, even if you hold it down. :frown
 

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Did you try it with the engine running or off? If off then the car battery may getting long in the tooth and doesn't have enough power to operate the rear hatch motor(s?). If you try with the car running then it could be the rear hatch motor is shot.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
tried it with both. Would it be the motor even when pressing the button to close doesn't do anything (no tones, beeps, etc..), or more like the switch or electronics? How do I get in to the back hatch underside (taking the panel off) ?
 

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I can't tell you how to remove any panels as I don't have a powered rear door to compare anything with. From what you described earlier I would think the motor is screwy. Check that first with a volt meter or 12V test lamp at the connections on the motor once you get it exposed. Make sure you get voltage at the motor; if the motor has no voltage then work back to the control module. I really feel that the motor went kaput though.

BTW...is it still under warranty?
 

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Funny you say this... I am sitting in the Toyota waiting room as I write this having my liftgate of my 2013 RAV4 Limited looked at. Sounds like the same symptoms... It’s been doing it for several weeks... First it was intermittent, it would open 1/2 way and stop or not close. Lately, it won’t do anything... Yesterday, they said it was the battery. Not enough voltage when the engine was off, so they replaced the battery. That got me back to where it was intermittent again so I am here again today.

Real time update, they just came in and said they want to replace both actuators... I asked how much, he is checking. I know I can buy them on line for <$700 for both...

Stay tuned... I’ve removed other door panels, does anyone know how to remove the liftgate door panel to get to the connector?

Latest update: $1512.54.... I said thanks but no thanks... He was very friendly and suggested I call Toyota and maybe they will cover it.... He gave me the part numbers and told me about removing the liftgate panel if I want to do myself...
 

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Well, I was partially right - actuator = motor. :wink
I looked up actuator to see what it was and low and behold it's an electrically controlled/motorized piston. My 2012 Highlander had a MOTOR that moved the rear hatch up and down and that's what I was thinking of. Sorry 'bout that! 0:)
 

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Latest update: $1512.54.... I said thanks but no thanks... He was very friendly and suggested I call Toyota and maybe they will cover it.... He gave me the part numbers and told me about removing the liftgate panel if I want to do myself...
My daughter had a power liftgate problem with her '02 Highlander. Turned out the pivot point on the liftgate itself had started to unscrew and ended up bending its mounting point. Solution: replace the whole liftgate. I forgot the quoted price but probably $1000+ AND not covered by the factory OR the extended warranty they paid big $$$ for. Result, her husband who's very persuasive, convinced Toyota to replace it for free which is what happened. I have her check that pivot for tightness regularly.
 

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I called Toyota. The lady said it was out of warranty and there was nothing she could do... I complained a little bit but was very nice to her and she eventually said ...let me talk to my manager and call you back. She called back and got them down a little bit and basically said she would split the cost with me, so still $74x... I figured this is ~$100 more than I can do it myself so I am having them do it. Since this is my wife's car, there is also a little piece of mind that if there is ever another problem, she can deal with it...

Happy wife, happy life!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So I took off the panels (the snap on, using panel remover tools so no scratches), and check the switch, it was good, I wondered about that computer. I tried to find a local company with it in stock, none. They would want $125 to diagnose problem, I figure I buy the computer online for $240 (includes shipping), if it's not that, sell it back out for $175 or so, then figure it's the motors, but why both? I couldn't find a diagram showing the connector pins for that 89222-0r010 (part ordered is 89222-0r031) so maybe I could put 12V DC on it manually to test. But if you unplug computer, plug in, then the switch on the back works, does two beeps just like key or button on dash. Close it, start car, reverse/forward, then try to open and it does try, it starts going up for just a sec before it stops, then the switch no longer works again. Not sure if one of the motors is out so it kicks it off or something with the computer part. guess i'll find out.
 

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The 2 things that lift the door are called "Liftgate Actuators" on RockAuto so I call them that... I asked if Toyota could test them individually and they could not. I'm not sure what computer your referring to, my understanding was, when the actuators sensed high current (eg the door hit something or the actuator is bad/sticking) it would stop.

My vote is it's the actuators, sounds just like my issue. I've only had new ones for ~24 hrs, but it is now working fine now.

For the actuators, search on Rock Auto under Body, Liftgate Actuator.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
They didn't have the ECU in stock so canceled and just got some new Actuators. Is there a torque for the bolts on that, don't want to over tighten. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well the upper left of the left bolt dosn't feel like it wants to hit bottom so just leave it, replaced right one first, same issue, replaced left one, started working fine.

does that mean the right one is probably okay and can sell it on ebay?
 

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Hi, I have this 2013 Rav4 Limited and it had a crash on the back door, it was repaired and the door opens fine with both remote control and the button in the dashboard, but it won't close, it just makes a long beep and then nothing. Any ideas on what to do?
Thanks!
 

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Well the upper left of the left bolt dosn't feel like it wants to hit bottom so just leave it, replaced right one first, same issue, replaced left one, started working fine.

does that mean the right one is probably okay and can sell it on ebay?
Did you resolve your issue with the door by changing the actuators?
 

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I have a 2013 RAV4 limited with 135,000 miles and i have been having problems with my liftgate for about two years now. Dealership quoted me about $1,400 and the parts alone were $900. I've researched for about a year now to do it myself and couldn't find power lift cylinder replacements for less than $300 each, which considering isn't bad but i felt stupid shelling out $600 to fix the power liftgate when i have arms and it was a luxury i was willing to do without. I toyed with the notion of converting it to manual open like the LE and XLE and priced it out to be $133 all in including new bolts, which weren't really necessary as long as you just add the thread lock back on the bolts, but for $6 it didn't really matter. Took me about an hour and it wasn't that difficult you just need to pop off the entire inner liftgate panel which held in with clips and remove 8 bolts and replace the old hardware with the new hardware. The only slightly not straightforward part is getting to the one bolt that is hidden in liftgate, you need to remove one plastic clip and three screws that hold the the inner shell onto the liftgate, once that is off you unplug white connector tape off the open connection and reassemble with the new parts. Just don't forget before you start this whole thing to turn off the power door button in the glove box and leave it off.
 

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