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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2014 Rav4 Quality Coated EBC Brake Kit

I am doing a 4 corner brake job on my wife's Rav4 today. I looked at all my usual placing and found a 4 corner brake kit for $189.00 delivered. They are from AutoAnything dot com. Auto Anything is an AutoZone company, and I have been ordering from them of late because they have great pricing on SOME items. Nothing but great service from them.

EBC Brake Kits - Free Shipping on Performance Brake Kits!
 

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Mainia - the brake kits, are a very smart choice.
- wife has a 2008 RAV4 Limited v6 - no need to stick with OEM brake supplies

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Quote: Originally Posted by Beaumont67 View Post

I bought the premium brake kit (G3500 cast iron rotors & ceramic pads) last year / rears installed.
- this product ships out of the GTA-Toronto area / so Canadians save large / currently 50% off
- rotors are drilled, slotted & coated / I broke the brakes in hard, for 15 minutes
- my garage friend charged me $150 labor, to do the rear axle / include lube calipers, pins & shims
- still using original calipers, that came on the 2008 RAV4 v6 / one was sticking, mechanic fixed it

^^ Probably saved $700-800 per axle avoiding Dealership, and end up with great parts.
- could not be happier / improved stopping distance & zero noise
- brake dust on alloy rims, almost nothing
- will have the front brakes done, this fall
- since I ordered a 4 wheel kit, just a labor charge next time

MaxBrakes ELITE xDS Series Kits, shipped out of Ontario, Canada:
http://maxbrakes.com/c-1002950-brake-kits-elite-xds-series-kits.html
^^ Company also ships to USA customers.

First time I bought a 4 wheel brake kit, saved $500 in parts (for Jimmy), not purchasing from local NAPA/UAP.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Here some more pics of my brake job. Years ago I owned a hobby Audi repair shop, I would add the anti-seize to customers cars, but I would not do the anti-rust Navel-Jelly acid cleaning that I did here on mine. I would normally use autobody acid prep, but I ran out, it is very robust compared to Navel-Jelly. I would just use a flat file and razor blade every each hub with a new blade each. I then added anti-seize to the hub and the rotor. Make sure you sand or quick file the outside face for rust high spots. If the car is older you must quick file lose rust on the outside of the hub so flaky rust debris does not get between the hub and rotor and create an untrue rotor rotation scenario. Before placing rotor on the hub you need to wipe excess paste off each with a paper towel and make very sure to get the corners even with a thin film, as not to have added enough to raise and make the rotor out of "true". The anti-seize "liquid carrier base stock" will flash off when you properly bed your brakes in, leaving the somewhat pasty aluminum flake anti-seize. You need to re-torque the wheels after a couple heat cycles.

I also used the caliper pin grease provided with this brake kit. Nice addition I was not use to, since I would buy everything separately and not this "Top Tier" brand. I noticed there was rust on the wheel lugs right inside the rotor holes, I tried to clean it with the Navel Jelly acid cleaner, but added anti-seizes in that area before adding the rotor as a anti-corrosion also. I could not get to that area when the OEM rotors were on there. Notice the outer rotor face has all it "swept area" where the backside lost 25% or it's swept area that reduced braking distance considerably.

It took quite a bit longer to get the brakes "to be safe" for my wife to drive with this coating on it, till I swept it off with braking. I spent a good hour on the road braking and doing cool downs on the hwy. I did most of my "wear" on hwys. I did not "bed the brakes in" like I normally do with conventional brakes, because these brakes have that red crap that is suppose to bed them in for you. I don't know if I am through that red crap yet and the directions said to wait to do proper bedding of the brakes. I will wait 3 weeks till I bed the brakes "my way". I like just a hint of smoke from the fronts and my rotor are "blued" from the heat. This also burns off the bonding agents in the brake pads that can cause glazing and brake pad oscillation noise.


I use CRC Brake Quiet even though they say to use on non shimmed pads. I put a very thin layer under the shims and outside as seen in pics.

http://www.crcindustries.com/products/disc-brake-quiet-4-fl-oz-05016.html

.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Added note, I also fine wire brush the area where the brake pads go before I add the anti-seize the area as in the pic with the Q-Tip. Yes dirt will accumulate there but I feel the dirt will slide away, where expanding rust from brake pad steel will just pin the pad into a semi on position faster as they age in salt laden winter Minnesota driving conditions.
 

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Mainia, can you give us an update on the brake combo. I am considering the same EBC Premium rotors and either the Ultimax2 pads or the Green stuff pads. This would be for the front and rear. Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
They are working fine, brake even and still have the coating where it should, Just know that these take an extra 5 mile or so to scrape the coating off. The same brand pads are very rough with a special abrasive to cut into the coating. Would I buy them again.....Yep
 

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Mainia, why did you reuse the old 'brake clips' after all of the new parts you installed?

I just did a 4 corner brake job on my '15 XLE using OEM rotors and Advance Auto's WEAREVER gold brake pads - I didn't reuse any of the old clips on either the brackets or the pads.

I am curious.
 
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